New forks

[Dangerous Dave]

It's not really noticeable to be honest Chris, I have switched from 70's to 60's several times. I prefer the 60's with Avon's, but the front end is dropped and the rear is raised on my Curvy S.

[yorkie_chris]

Well it's coming together :-D


Building up the underside of the top yoke with fibreglass so I can tap a thread to mount the clocks to.

Sprayed the mudguard, looks pretty good satin black IMO

Fitted SC1 front, right barsteward to fit. way harder than avons

New fork oil, headlight clamps etc...

Speedo sensor is fitted-ish (bodge-tastic :-P)

[yorkie_chris]

Woohoo ... the front ends done

http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v198/78/86/574581600/n574581600_711770_8119.jpg

[petevtwin650]

It's worth it just for the better looking mudguard YC:D

Looking forward to seeing this next weekend. Is anyone coming with a USD converted Sv?

[yorkie_chris]

No idea, why you fancy trying it yoursen?

[yorkie_chris]

http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v198/78/86/574581600/n574581600_711767_7164.jpg

Sprayed back plastics.

[petevtwin650]

Nah, invested too much in the standard front YC, but be interesting to see which looks best and how much better they are. Mind you, at this rate we'll be changing wheels to skis.:D

[phil24_7]

It's worth it just for the better looking mudguard YC:D

Looking forward to seeing this next weekend. Is anyone coming with a USD converted Sv?

No but I'll be there at AR08!

[yorkie_chris]

What's in your forks?

[petevtwin650]

Just Rachtech springs and emulators plus 20w oil. But we'd have to get the wheels(s) powdercoated purple too. And we've got the nice top yoke too.:cool:

Have to wait until AR08 then Phil to see your creation.:D

[21QUEST]

Good work YC :) . Re mounting of clocks, a totally different approach from what others have done. Looking forward to the full pics.

I was thinking of RWU forks this time around...something a bit more OE looking but conveniently had a pair of 750 K5 forks lying around :rolleyes:.
Might still do the RWU forks as have a plan in my head which involes using some Honda forks.

I'm hoping to get mine done today too. Yesterday, got the Clocks mounted on top yoke and a headlight bracket extended due to shape of the naked headlights.

As for noticing the difference between a 120/60 and a 120/70, all I can say is, I can, myself. This of course is assumming all 120/60 or 120/70 are the same.....which they aren't as numbers are nominal.

But with the tyre you got on, you prolly get back to a ride height not dissimilar to SV ride height but how it wll feel(like or nt), only you can really say after riding it.



Cheers
Ben

[yorkie_chris]

Dropped the forks 20mm for good measure, I quite liked how the SV turned in with the stock forks dropped about as far as the bars would let me (25mm ish) so we shall see.

What do "normal" people do to mount the clocks?

[21QUEST]

Dropped the forks 20mm for good measure, I quite liked how the SV turned in with the stock forks dropped about as far as the bars would let me (25mm ish) so we shall see.

What do "normal" people do to mount the clocks?

Chris, with the forks dropped 20mm, check clearance on full compression if you haven't.....I'm not sure you have enough clearance before dust seals become intimate with bottom yoke if forks are dropped 20mm with the GSXR forks.

'Normal' people drill top yoke or use bottom half of handlebar riser bolts..
Mine are mounted off my bespoke top yoke :)


Ben

[yorkie_chris]

Was just in the process of taking the bars off to take the caps off (one PITA with a naked, much easier with clipons...) but the kettle called...

[yorkie_chris]

Well we were both wrong, the mudguard hits the radiator at full compression, have had to put it back to mounted flush

[21QUEST]

Re mudguard, not that surprised although I indeed didn't think of that. No problem with the dust seal hitting bottom yoke, is what you are saying?

As an aside, pic of my clock mounted to the yoke.


Ben
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8751/dsc01827mk0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[yorkie_chris]

Not with them flush, didn't look that close with them dropped either

[21QUEST]

Not with them flush, didn't look that close with them dropped either

Yeah, with them flush, shouldn't.....concern was with them dropped 20mm.



Ben

[dirtydog]

It's worth it just for the better looking mudguard YC:D

Looking forward to seeing this next weekend. Is anyone coming with a USD converted Sv?


I'll probably be at AR08 with USD shod curvey :cool: am gathering the all the parts i need at the moment

[northwind]

What do "normal" people do to mount the clocks?

Lots of cable ties :)

Looking good there, have to admit I'm semi wishing I'd gone with a RWU front end, looks a bit more in keeping with the SV...

[dirtydog]

Lots of cable ties :)

Looking good there, have to admit I'm semi wishing I'd gone with a RWU front end, looks a bit more in keeping with the SV...

I'll swap you my SVs front end for yours if you like?? ;)

[yorkie_chris]

It does look better than the original front end, IMO the USD's with radial brakes and stuff look too blingy for the SV. Especially a ratter like mine. So a good compromise, especially with the price :-P

[Dangerous Dave]

I think the SRAD USD suits the Curvy well, anything newer looks like an obvious bolt on!

I think the early K USD suits the Pointy well, anything Radial looks odd!

Just my point of view.

[yorkie_chris]

Just finishing off the fuel tank, make the big dink a little less obvious :-P

Then stick some tyres on it, and I'll let ye all know how it rides.

[Dangerous Dave]

Take a few pic's when she's out in the open if you can please Chris.

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah will do when I've finished spraying it

[northwind]

I'll swap you my SVs front end for yours if you like?? ;)

On careful and thorough consideration... No. But I'm de-blinging the ones I have on ;)

[dirtydog]

On careful and thorough consideration... No. But I'm de-blinging the ones I have on ;)


Ah well it was worth a try ;)

How do you de-bling forks?

My SRAD ones should arrive this week :cool::cool::cool:

[northwind]

Less gold :D They're good forks and all, but they look like they should be wrapped around Mr T's neck. I miss my silver ones :rolleyes: I'd thought that the tubes might swap between K3 and K4 but sadly not.

[dirtydog]

A bit of wet and dry should sort that for you ;-)

[dizzyblonde]

heres your pics you wanted uploading
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250001.jpg

and you can just see that the blonde took the challenge of attempting to clean the filthy downpipe!!!:p

[Dangerous Dave]

Nice job there Chris, looks great, well done.

[yorkie_chris]

Rides fairly harsh though, think I had too much preload on, have wound it off a little and will see how it goes. Rider sag is about 10mm now (was none before!)

Dunno what it is but these forks don't seem to slide as freely as the SV ones did when bouncing it about.

[yorkie_chris]

What would you expect to notice if there was something internally wrong with the forks? they compress fine when off the bike and move pretty smooth when you take the caps off.

Had the adjusters at 1 1/2 turns out each.

[21QUEST]

Bike looking good...well done :) .


I'm no expert Chris so can only suggest we go through the usual process of eliminationation.

A few things off my head.

*You changed the fork oil IRC. What Brand and weight have you got in? Also what air gap.
*Forks might be pinched?(at axle) causng stiction.
*What's the bike sag?*

[yorkie_chris]

10w oil, stock gixxer air gap.

I don't think they're pinched at the axle as I always wiggle them before tightening the pinch bolts to check everythings sat naturally.

Will check the bike sag now.



Also bearing in mind I've only been like 2 miles on it, and it was quite cold out, on cold tyres so I'm not entirely discounting the possibility that it's me being paranoid.

[21QUEST]

What Brand 10w

Tried reducing compression to pretty much fully open



Ben

[yorkie_chris]

Putoline HPX10

displacement from no force to having the bike alone on them is about 25mm.

[21QUEST]

Hmmm, think part of the issue might be the fork oil. I know it says 10wt on the bottle but it is a very heavy 10w, so to speak. I'm alsmost willing to bet, that's the issue here.

25mm bike sag should cause it to feel as you have described prolly want 20mm which should give you 30mm/35mm rider sag(or there about) with a bit of luck.

Be back soon


Ben

[yorkie_chris]

Hmm will try wind the damping adjusters right out tomorrow and see if it helps, that and maybe try get some heat into the tyres.


Why is the putoline heavier than any other 10w or is it just a bit of variation between brands?
What sort would you reccomend?

Also what do you mean by 20mm giving 30-35? You've lost me there :-P

[21QUEST]

Hmm will try wind the damping adjusters right out tomorrow and see if it helps, that and maybe try get some heat into the tyres.


Why is the putoline heavier than any other 10w or is it just a bit of variation between brands?
What sort would you reccomend?

Also what do you mean by 20mm giving 30-35? You've lost me there :-P

Haha... not surprised you are lost. My wording was rubbish. Dd a bit of an edit now.

Re oil, yep, to do with variation in actual viscosity betwee brands. Putoline is one with a wider variation than most. To compare to different brands you want to use viscosity measured in centistokes.

Two 10w from same brand could have two different actual viscosity.

Anyhoos, Putoline 10w is 46cst@40c. have you got a manual for the forks ...I just want to know what the suzuki oil is called. I think the 750 forks were showa ss-7(not sure) so probably the same anyways. Most OE forks use about 34cst@40c

See link below for some stuff to read at your leisure. Also has some interesting links there.

Going try and paste table of viscosity for different brands. You might want to register on the Independent Suspension Forum too....you pick up little snippets which help you when playing with your bouncy bits.

Anyways, if Putline is more readily available to you, and assuming the Suzuki oil for forks is ss-7(?) , I'll go for the Putoline 7.5w


Editted to add: If the viscosity is too high for the forks , what yu do is move the range where the adjusters start have effect ie low speed. Apparently , the high speed is no affected but from my experiments, it does feel like it is....maybe cause you have to much low speed that the stacks don't blow ope anyway so the feeling of harshness.



Cheers

ps: hope the above made some sense. It's a bit of a pain to type with my keyboard at the moment.

[21QUEST]

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/5140/oildataup6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/5305/oildata2ft0.gif (http://imageshack.us)


see this too (http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/fork_brake_others/images/PDF/forkoil_factoryline_blendchart.pdf)


Ben

[yorkie_chris]

All I know about the actual internals of the fork is that they're apparently off a 98 GSXR600, with compression adjusters which the earlier ones didn't have.

The only manual I have states "fork oil #10"

I'll stick some 7.5 in tomorrow if I can find some.

[yorkie_chris]

Very helpful explanation too. Cheers

[21QUEST]

If it says #10 , then yes , I'll go for the Putoline 7.5w. keep the 10w you'll be taking out as can still be handy :)


Ben

[21QUEST]

Very helpful explanation too. Cheers

.....a pleasure. I'm confident it'll feel better(hope so) with a change of oil :smt023


Ben

[yorkie_chris]

No putoline 7.5, so have got silkolene 5wt (all they had!)

Which according to that table there is 22 cst, so if I mix them up 50 50 that should get me in the ballpark and give me some working suspension for the weekend.

[yorkie_chris]

Loads better now, very confidence inspiring leant over and on the brakes.

[21QUEST]

Good stuff :thumbsup:


Ben

[yorkie_chris]

Though these tyres are possibly the wierest I've ever felt, they're carp when you're behaving yourself, but poke them with a stick and they say "Cerrmonnn ye poofter" and stick like nothing else. Great stuff :-D

[Robw#70]

HPX-10 is fine in '98 SRAD forks, did a set yeasterday, 110mm airgap, rebound adjusters set at 1-1/2turns and 1-1/4 comp
You should have at least 2-1/4 turns adjustment on the rebound adjusters full out to in.
Did you set the airgap or do it to quantity? as this can make a big difference on the airgap?

21Quest is right on the oil's, the weight is a range and there is some crossover, so 1 manufacturers 5wt could be the same as anothers 10wt and vice versa, always stick to one brand for consistancy.
Putoline is the most consistant from hot to cold compared to alot of other oils, I have used most makes and some are really bad, ie 1 20min session on track and there will be virtually no rebound afterwards, when it was all fine when cold, wheras putoline starts off a little heavier, but doesn't change anywhere near the amount of other oils.

[yorkie_chris]

Yes I have that amount of adjustment on the rebound screws (re-assembled them as said in the manual ;-))

Had it set up as per yours with 110 air gap and screws set to 1 1/2, they were still nasty. Much better now though.

[zadar]

maxima 125/150 works pretty good.
you can also run higher air gap.
rebound is usually problem if not revalved so 1.5 turns out is usually to fast.

[Robw#70]

but whats your average temperature out there?

at best in the summer we may see a couple of days of 25 deg c and most of the time its more around 10, right now its been a mixture of snow/sleet or rain.
although the oils are ok for consistantcy your starting temp is a fair bit higher and working temp is higher still so settings are different for us with the same oils etc

[yorkie_chris]

1 or 2 degrees C the other day

[Robw#70]

exactly, so you cant really compare settings with california where when its colder its still in the twenties!

[zadar]

you dont set forks buy coldest days,unless it is cold most of the time.
ps.it snowed in california couple days ago.and I dont live there :)
air gap has little to do with weather.even when cold once forks starts moving it is not that much difference.

[Robw#70]

my point is just that here in the uk with a considerably lower ambient temp, the setting that work in the us (adjusters not airgap) will be different to what works here, so 1-1/2 turns on the rebound works here, but like you said its too quick where the temp is higher

[zadar]

Rob,you missed my point.
stock valving on rebound circuit is compromise from factory which makes adjuster worthless that far out.damping will change a lot from pushing on forks in garage before ride and pushing on it after ride.you want change to be minimal,adjuster is not cure.

[yorkie_chris]

Well I'm sure whatever (double) compromise I've now got is far from perfect, but have just got back from the NW3 ride and the front feels way more planted when cranked over.


Has also turned up another problem now the pads are bedded in, which I didn't notice before. The brakes are f###ing scarily bad! No pulsing at the lever but from 90ish braking makes the whole front end shudder, from 30ish you can feel them grabbing on and off.

Warped discs?

[northwind]

Sounds it. Or disc contamination I suppose, grippier in one place than another. But warped discs would be the obvious place to start :(

[yorkie_chris]

Bugger. Will get a runout gauge on them tomorrow.

Contamination did cross my mind, but that wouldn't explain the fact that they "pump up" rock solid stationary, but have loads more travel when moving.

[zadar]

warped or bent.
it can also be tire or steering head bearing loose.

[yorkie_chris]

Handles really well except under braking, bearings were adjusted the other day and there's no play in the forks.

Checking the runout in the morning, what's acceptable?

[yorkie_chris]

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=107342


See here too with regards sending them to motoliner

[yorkie_chris]

Zombie-thread!

A bit of a reveiw of the forks etc. now they've been on a while. 9 months ish, they are without a doubt the best mod to the bike.

However, they do work a lot better with an SRAD750 shock fitted. A shock closer to stock ride height means preload is nearly all the way out. The pirelli SC tyres were good in the dry but pretty bad in the wet, didn't last long. Back on avon storms again. The 120-60ZR17 front as stock for the SV works fine on this front end and has done for several thousand miles.

Seals are now misting a bit, so ready to change them out in next few days as well as servicing the rest of it.

Overall I spent about £50 on this conversion after selling off the SV bits. I would have made a fair profit if I hadn't ended up with a set of warped discs and had to spend on some new(ish) ones!


Big recommendations to twin works factory, and to pappaclarts mate on the TL forum (speedking IIRC) for the bearing and discs.

Speedo sensor is a GT101DC, with some countersunk and drilled magnets from ebay. Have had no problems with this setup at all.

[Dave20046]

Zombie-thread!

A bit of a reveiw of the forks etc. now they've been on a while. 9 months ish, they are without a doubt the best mod to the bike.

However, they do work a lot better with an SRAD750 shock fitted. A shock closer to stock ride height means preload is nearly all the way out. The pirelli SC tyres were good in the dry but pretty bad in the wet, didn't last long. Back on avon storms again. The 120-60ZR17 front as stock for the SV works fine on this front end and has done for several thousand miles.

Seals are now misting a bit, so ready to change them out in next few days as well as servicing the rest of it.

Overall I spent about £50 on this conversion after selling off the SV bits. I would have made a fair profit if I hadn't ended up with a set of warped discs and had to spend on some new(ish) ones!


Big recommendations to twin works factory, and to pappaclarts mate on the TL forum (speedking IIRC) for the bearing and discs.

Speedo sensor is a GT101DC, with some countersunk and drilled magnets from ebay. Have had no problems with this setup at all.
Oooh feedback - nice. Are they better than standard forks with hagon springs and new (levelled) oil do you know?

[yorkie_chris]

Yes, plenty. I had uprated (linear) springs before doing this mod.

Damping is so much more controlled with the cartridge internals.

[Dave20046]

Yes, plenty. I had uprated (linear) springs before doing this mod.

Damping is so much more controlled with the cartridge internals.
Ah cool, next time I go flying if I get back up I know what I'll be investing it...

[Dangerous Dave]

Damping is so much more controlled with the cartridge internals.
+ 1, and all the adjusters are there for you to fine tune the forks to suit you best.