Stiff Bike

[thedonal]

I'm finding my bike stiff to roll forwards/backwards when she's cold at the moment. Looking at the front brakes, the pads seem to be sitting hard against the discs. There is an intermittant squeeking noise as well when I roll her abount but otherwise the usual sound that the brakes make when applied lightly (I've compared the two).

The brakes are not juddering/pulsing when applied, so I'm presuming the discs are not warped.

However- assuming it's the pads that are too hard against the discs, I'd assume that the pistons may be seized or the winter cold is making something stiffer (oo-er!) than usual.

This is not a constant thing and the bike has seemed better after a long ride (though not tonight- but only a short trip t'shops and back)- this would point to either the constant connection wearing a bit off the pads as she's ridded for a couple of hours, or bearings and stuff warming up.

I had a quick search, but didn't really find much, so it's over to the panel!

[chazzyb]

Sounds like it may be time for a caliper overhaul.

[simon27]

+1, had a similar complaint on my old RG125F. Caliper overhaul solved all woes.

[squirrel_hunter]

Check your tyre pressures. I found the bike a little stiff to move one morning followed by it feeling a little sluggish round corners, all due to a flat rear tyre.

Other than that sounds like the brakes; clean and or overhaul as said above.

[thedonal]

Cheers guys- I'll get a brake bleeding kit and set to work- will probably order my new hoses in that case- may as well do all at once.

I've already got brake fluid and copper grease. I remember reading that there's a specific lube for the pistons too- what else will I need, and is there a post with tips on bleeding/refilling? (edit- I know that's really lazy and will probably do a search anyway, but if you know of a specific...)

The tyres are getting checked tomorrow anyway, but they feel fine at low speeds and on corners- and all else points to the brakes anyway.

Cheers agin!

[yorkie_chris]

Never seez is the dogs danglies for the pistons, but copper slip will work too.

You don't need a brake bleeding kit to overhaul the calipers, you can change fluid etc just by bleeding them the normal way

[thedonal]

Cheers- I guess I'll need new O rings for them -can shoot to a Suzuki dealer tomorrow.

So- what's a bleeding kit for then? Just getting air holes out? Does it make the whole job easier? As a first attempt at this, I'm sure I'll need any help I can get! Especially if I'm putting new hoses on. Might as well do it all at once. Plus I've got new pads- still a decent bit of wear on the existing, but the back are sintered and not sure if the front are- so want to give as much advantage to the front as possible.

[yorkie_chris]

Not neccesarily, the seals might be ok

Get some spares if you need the bike daily in case they are knackered, but you might not need the,

[thedonal]

Cool- it's my commuting machine and as 2 days on the train=1week's petrol, I guess that it's best to be safe.

I guess I'll be OK for the next week or so- given that I'll only be riding a few days, due to New Years. Apart from pad wear, should I be aware of much else while riding in this condition?

For cleaning the calipers, can i just use fairy liquid and water, followed by a good rinse and dry?

Sorry to keep quizzing y'all, but it's first time, and brakes- fairly important to get right!

[yorkie_chris]

Be right, so long as its not dragging to the point that your discs start glowing

edit: this is a daft overstatement, if its dragging enough to get the discs hot then it needs attention, but a little scraping noise when pushing the bike will not be generating heat. My apologies.

[Stig]

Be right, so long as its not dragging to the point that your discs start glowing

I wouldn't have said that personally. Continuous binding is going to over heat the disk and possibly warp or fracture it. It doesn't need to be glowing to do this.

Go out for a short ride, say a mile or so. Brake regularly apart from the last few hundred yards from stop. Then touch each disk. If one is hotter than the other, you have your answer.

[thedonal]

Cool- cheers muchly!

[Stig]

Never seez is the dogs danglies for the pistons, but copper slip will work too.

You don't need a brake bleeding kit to overhaul the calipers, you can change fluid etc just by bleeding them the normal way

Now I could be wrong here so please tell me if I am. Never seez is for use on nuts and bolts the same as copper slip. Not for lubricating the pistons.

The copper grease is used on the back of the pads to prevent them squealing and on the pin and clip to stop them seizing. Red rubber grease is what you use on the pistons.

[thedonal]

Red Rubber grease- THAT's the stuff!!

Good job Ape! Have a banana.

[Stig]

Have a banana.

I would normally accept your offer but have recently had roast banana with banana gravy with mini banana's on the side.

I've had stir fry banana from the left overs of my roast banana and had a whole banana trifle.

Just this evening I had banana bubble and squeak, and been drinking banana beers all day. If that wasn't enough I've also had banana flan with banana cream.

Give me a f.....g apple before I turn into a banana. :lol:

[chazzyb]

Copper grease - NO! Red rubber grease around the pistons/seals, please, if anything at all.

You may not need seals, but they're not expensive in the grand scheme of things. The main thing is to strip the calipers and clean all the corrosion and general sh*t out. Pay particular attention to the recesses where the seals sit. Pistons make look nasty, but a polish with Solvol and then complete cleansing afterwards (important) can make them *shine* again. There's no rocket science in calipers, but *cleanliness* is next to godli-wossname. Spares Direct will probably get seal sets to you quicker than a dealer.

[yorkie_chris]

Copper grease - NO!

Why not? A bit behind the dust seals has never done mine any harm

[Stig]

Why not? A bit behind the dust seals has never done mine any harm

Because copper grease will deteriorate the rubber. Not only will it cause the dust seal to breakup but the fluid seal also. The possible result of this doesn't really bare thinking about.

[BILLY]

Because copper grease will deteriorate the rubber. Not only will it cause the dust seal to breakup but the fluid seal also. The possible result of this doesn't really bare thinking about.
+1 you need red rubber grease!!!

[thedonal]

Alright- 1 last question- who's a reliable online shop to get a HEL 2 line braided hose kit from?

I've looked up on IntoBikes, but I think they may have a generic kit- is there a specific kit to fit the 99 S Curvy?

Yeah- I'd have thought against copper grease for the pistons- wouldn't the particles also wear the bits? Or is that another of my daft theories?!!!

OK- have a napple, BigApe. I've got some Pink Ladies in. They're lovely, Pink Ladies. Drifts off into reverie- not necessarily thinking of apples either. Pairs, sorry Pears, maybe...!

[yorkie_chris]

Because copper grease will deteriorate the rubber. Not only will it cause the dust seal to breakup but the fluid seal also. The possible result of this doesn't really bare thinking about.

I've used it a lot, and never seen this, but you're a site more experienced in such matters than I am, so I will go forth and obtain some of this red rubber grease.

[chazzyb]

Alright- 1 last question- who's a reliable online shop to get a HEL 2 line braided hose kit from?

HEL hoses? HEL of course! Or you could get M&P 'economy' brake lines, which are v.v.cheap - but braided, nonetheless. They are made by and shipped direct from Goodridge, in Goodridge labelled boxes. £20 the pair to you, my boy. ;-)

[dizzyblonde]

just remember one thing...the Sv is notorious for this problem with brakes EVERY winter. If you ride every winter that is..... Suzy has had seven winters and every year they get kacked up and have to be overhauled. I'm no expert, but, an expert re-builds my brakes every year. ( Im Indoors, or my bike mechanic Pat- who restore/customs em for a livin) Before now I have had to tap the callipers gently with a rubber mallet, to release them before reversing up the drive. Its a real cow.

And Chris, red rubber grease will be going in mine too, when you get hold of Suzy

[thedonal]

Cheers Dizzy- indeed. I'll also be re greasing the back brake soon- that was only rebuilt a few months ago, so is in fairly good nick so far. The front brakes haven't been done since I got her- a year and a week ago. It'll be a good learning experience- lots of first time stuff on the bike (including riding one!!!) over the last 12 months- often with lots of swearing involved.

Brake lines- Duh! Fair play- I will speak to Hel then.

Cheerzzy Chazzy!

[pmapp]

Check ebay for some good deals on the HEL lines.

[Stig]

My brakes get done three times a year. Once before winter, once half way through and again middle of summer. Once you've done it a couple of times, it only takes an hour or two.

[thedonal]

Well- did a short trip this morning to test the brakes- stiff to start with as usual. Both discs were same heat and not really hot after a moderate 2 mile circuit. Did a longer trip round the houses and the bike was much looser, Is fine tonight after a day on the bike.

Hmmm- still doing the overhaul soon though....

[dizzyblonde]

probably just full of kack that needed loosening, also im Indoors says that in colder temperatures, the grease between brake caliper components, is more viscose and only 'loosen up' when brake temperature is achieved. but yes as you said, they'll still need overhaulin