GSXR front end speedo work around

[Lozzo]

I have it sussed.

You don't want a Gixer front wheel, you need a Triumph one with speedo drive from 2002 onwards. From 2002 onwards they have a Hall-effect speedo drive and there's even a company in Australia who make a conversion kit with all the spacers needed to fit a Triumph wheel into Gixer forks. On some forks you need to have 2mm machined off the fork bottom to get the drive to fit correctly. You can even use standard Triumph discs with a supplied spacer kit to suit either 4-pot radial or 6 pot conventional brake calipers. All you'd need to do is suss what wires to join on the speedo side, and that won't be rocket science.

About 10 minutes ago I looked at my Daytona and the wheel would easily match my SV rear if both were painted the same, and the Triumph front matches a Bandit 1200 rear even better (I have one of these in the garage too.)

I found the details on T595.net because I recalled posts from a lot of Daytona and Speed Triple owners asking about the Gixer fork swop. Turns out it's a big thing in the US and Australia, but not so much over here.

Here's a link to the Australian company who do the conversion kits, ignore the Ohlins pictures and stuff and read the text.

http://www.racecomp.com.au/usdfe.htm

[DarrenSV650S]

You tell me this on the very day I get a gixxer wheel delivered :shaking:

[Lozzo]

Sell it, someone with a GIxer trackbike will buy it

[northwind]

Which GSXR wheel? They come in various widths so what works for a K1 won't work identically for an SRAD.

For a curvy, it seems an awful lot more complicated than converting to the rear wheel speedo, and that's practically free and uses all original parts (bar 2 foot of wire). For the pointy, I think it'd be better to just spend a little effort looking into replacement sensors- it's all been done before, it's just a supplier issue now.

But it's a very cool option, always good to see new ideas. Plus, it's got great options for people with single sided rears, run a triumph wheel at both ends frinstance. What's th parts availability like for the Triumphs? GSXR bits are easy to find but they ted to be expensive, so that could be another advantage...Discs are very easy for the GSXRs though, especially if you go with 320mm.

The SRAD front wheel and Bandit 1200 straight-spoked wheels are both on the same pattern as the SV wheels, one of the reasons i tend to recommend finding a solution that allows those- I hate wheel mismatches. But the Triumph one looks spot on, better than a K-series GSXR wheel

[Jester666]

For a curvy, it seems an awful lot more complicated than converting to the rear wheel speedo, and that's practically free and uses all original parts (bar 2 foot of wire).

Explanation please!

[Lozzo]

The spokes on the Triumph wheel are at a very slight angle, much the same as the Bandit rear wheel I have (actually a Gixer 750L wheel, but same as my mate's Bandit 1200). To be honest, due to the diameter of the discs you don't see a great deal of the spokes on the front so you don't really notice this, and they are rounded spokes not diamond profile like Gixer K series wheels are.

There are specialist Triumph breakers who aren't that costly from what I've seen.

I just like the idea of having a factory fit look for a conversion like this. When you think about it, it's really very simple and a lot less hassle than sourcing a sensor, making magnet holders and ending up with something a bit Heath-Robinson attached to the forks. You just buy a spacer kit, fit it and bolt everything up, then connect the speedo wiring - simple. Best thing is, it looks professionally done and works.

[northwind]

I just like the idea of having a factory fit look for a conversion like this. When you think about it, it's really very simple and a lot less hassle than sourcing a sensor, making magnet holders and ending up with something a bit Heath-Robinson attached to the forks. You just buy a spacer kit, fit it and bolt everything up, then connect the speedo wiring - simple. Best thing is, it looks professionally done and works.

Yup, that's the nicest thing about the rear wheel conversion, I had a Suzuki technician convinced mine was factory once. Or, using a GSXR pickup can be done similiarly neatly I think. But then, if you do the sensor install carefully it could be equally stealthy (why everyone puts it on the front I don't know, it looks awful... All sorts of better places.)

That'd be a good match for the older B12/late GSXR1100 wheel, you're spot on. I like that.

[northwind]

Explanation please!

Both ends on the curvy have a 17mm axle, so you can take the speedo drive, remove the RHS rear axle spacer, grind the speedo drive and caliper hanger down slightly, then fit the speedo drive to the rear wheel. To make it work reliably you add a wee castellation in the wheel using chemical metal or jbstik or similiar, just like it has on the front. Perhaps I'm biased because I sort of invented it ;) A guy called Zook 5-0 on Socal came up with the idea but nobody could make it work. But it's a nice simple fix, OEM-reliable too. Only works on the curvy.

I've got a guide for it somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

[Jester666]

I've got a guide for it somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

Cool! PM me the link when you've found it please! :thumbsup:

[Lozzo]

Shame it won't work on a proper SV.

[DarrenSV650S]

I think ianofbhills got his pointy speedo working fine with the help of a conversion kit, so hopefully that will do the trick. Don't know where he got it from though

.........Ian ? ;)

[northwind]

I think Ian used Jim's conversion kit, which isn't available any more unfortunately. But it was just made of more or less off the shelf parts so easy to duplicate. The Veypor wiring loom (£30 or so i think) with the Veypor control box chopped off ought to work, it works on a curvy and the method's the same, though Stu had some problems with it. Dinky wee sensor, it'd be easy to do a stealthed install.

I still like Lozzo's trick though, this sort of mashup really appeals to me, especally when it looks so OEM afterwards.

[yorkie_chris]

I'm going for magnets on the disc and a pickup somewhere, just because I can't really be bothered messing about with the rear.

[Lozzo]

I still like Lozzo's trick though, this sort of mashup really appeals to me, especally when it looks so OEM afterwards.

I'm very tempted to try it when I get my new bike, just to see if it can be done.

[phil24_7]

For a curvy, it seems an awful lot more complicated than converting to the rear wheel speedo, and that's practically free and uses all original parts (bar 2 foot of wire). For the pointy, I think it'd be better to just spend a little effort looking into replacement sensors- it's all been done before, it's just a supplier issue now.

Why won't this work on the pointy?

The Veypor wiring loom (£30 or so i think) with the Veypor control box chopped off ought to work, it works on a curvy and the method's the same, though Stu had some problems with it. Dinky wee sensor, it'd be easy to do a stealthed install.

Does the Veypor wiring require any magnets or other parts or would the sensor and wire work with the pointy's loom?

What probs did Stu have?

[Jester666]

Why won't this work on the pointy?

Probably a different size rear spindle? :confused:

[northwind]

Why won't this work on the pointy?

Does the Veypor wiring require any magnets or other parts or would the sensor and wire work with the pointy's loom?

What probs did Stu have?

Yup, different spindle.

Stu's problems- it didn't work ;) Don't know why. He had low-reading issues. So I'd maybe PM him, I've never tried it with a pointy. Why would you, easier to get a proper bike! But the veypor kit comes with the pickup and magnets, so all you have to do is chop off your speedo pickup and plumb in the Veypor sensor, trying not to misfire it as it'll instantly explode into flames. But in practice, he had problems. I think the kit strangely came with different sized magnets, which could have been part of it. He had some sort of polarity issue at one point I think too, and it basically snowballed into a complete sod.

[yorkie_chris]

Now I've got my magnets and such, will be making holders monday probably..

Which way round do the magnets want to be facing? Does it matter?

[phil24_7]

You hold the magnets near the sensor and when they are the correct way around you should feel them pull towards the sensor.

[yorkie_chris]

Aha, any luck on that front?

Should have some magnet holders made up by monday

[phil24_7]

What size magnets did you get??

You ordered your sensor yet?

[yorkie_chris]

6mm dia by 3mm

not ordered the sensor yet

[BILLY]

Try this guy in the US climb.high@verizon.net £45 for the kit just let him know what parts you are using!

BILLY

[DarrenSV650S]

Where did you get the email addy from?

[northwind]

That's Jim, who used to make the kit.

[phil24_7]

Didn't he used to sell it for $65? That means he's charging $25 more now!!!

[BILLY]

Where did you get the email addy from?
If I rember correctly DirtyDog passed it on to me! I think andyb got one from him last year.

[andyb]

If I rember correctly DirtyDog passed it on to me! I think andyb got one from him last year.

Correct, I also emailed him about two months ago about getting some more magnets as I couldn't get my original ones out of the disc, He didn't say anything about not doing them anymore. I think he used a different email though...I go and check.

[andyb]

Try this guy in the US climb.high@verizon.net £45 for the kit just let him know what parts you are using!

BILLY

He used this address when I contacted him in October.

HTH
Andy

[amnesia]

Here's a link to the Australian company who do the conversion kits, ignore the Ohlins pictures and stuff and read the text.

http://www.racecomp.com.au/usdfe.htm


Resurrecting an old thread....


Are Racecomp still active? Emailed them last week and didnt get a response. :smt075

[dirtydog]

If I rember correctly DirtyDog passed it on to me!


that is correct

[yorkie_chris]

My setup uses some 10mm by 5mm drilled magnets, very easy to bolt into the disc rivets

[Stu]

The problems I had were using the Veypor sensor on the front wheel. It was down to getting a good mounting point for the sensor which lined up with all 4 magnets on the disc.
It's easy enough to get the polarity right (& it needs to be right!) Just make sure that the magnets would stick to each other rather than repel each other if they were stacked & then keep them facing the same way to attach to the bike. Then they will at least all work, or none of them will work :roll:
Anyway - doing it on the front wheel looked Shiite
Doing it on the back wheel (which is much easier to hide) has the massive addvantage that you can stick it on a paddock stand, engine running, in gear & you can see if it works as you do each magnet without taking for a test ride.
My veypor wiring came with 2 magnets larger than the other 2, although I don't think any of them were as strong as Northwind's (there's no way mine register with an inch gap).

Pictures of my front wheel install, sorry no pics of my rear wheel yet.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00040-1.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00039-1.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00038-1.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00037-1.jpg
Only 3 of those magnets ever registered, but I never found out which one didn't :roll:
Pics of the Veypor wiring - It's not that complicated, cut the grey wire off from everything else & bin everything else (unless some mad tinkerer wants it :D)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00010.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00009.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00008.jpg
And magnets
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/stu369/DSC00007.jpg
Wiring the Veypor to the Pointy is :
Red and Orange goes to red on the veypor
Pink goes to black
Black and white, unsurprisingly, goes to the uninsulated wire


Oh and some advice I received at the time "Obviously, good insulation is important here, it'll all go on fire if not. Don't ask me how I know. "