View Full Version : Inverting naked's handlebar possible/done?
I was asked by a friend if you could invert the naked's handlebars to lower them on the curvy. Has anyone ever done this? I know Tuono riders do this and that's where my friend got the idea from but I'm not sure if the ergonomics would be right or if they'll clear the tank.
yorkie_chris
06-01-08, 04:37 PM
Try it, costs nowt. I know mine has a fair bit of adjustment there that can change the position of the bars, but not sure whether it would work all the way inverted.
Maybe a set of clubman style bars would be a better option?
I think he wants to test it out before buying anything. He rode my bike with clipons but thought it too extreem. He wants something in the middle. Just thought I'd check it out here for him and save him the greef if it's not do-able.
DRAG bar renthals give best compromise between clip ons and the stock naked bars.
It's possible to try, but I know on the naked pointy at least the controls have a little plastic tab on them that goes into a hole in the bars so they are positioned in the right place. When I fit the renthals to mine I simply filed it away, so you could do that.
Personally I reckon they'll bang the tank, and even if they don't they'll probably be more extreme than clip ons, but without looking who knows?
yorkie_chris
06-01-08, 07:32 PM
on the naked pointy at least the controls have a little plastic tab on them that goes into a hole in the bars so they are positioned in the right place. When I fit the renthals to mine I simply filed it away, so you could do that.
Curvy's the same, just file the tab off.
It's possible to try, but I know on the naked pointy at least the controls have a little plastic tab on them that goes into a hole in the bars so they are positioned in the right place. When I fit the renthals to mine I simply filed it away, so you could do that.
Personally I reckon they'll bang the tank, and even if they don't they'll probably be more extreme than clip ons, but without looking who knows?
Curvy's the same, just file the tab off.
Don't file the tab off, drill the bars you muppets.
yorkie_chris
06-01-08, 09:31 PM
I filed it off before I crashed it (and fitted the renthals to replace the knackered OEM ones) prefered the indicator switch a tad lower than standard due to my thumb being a bit sore as I broke it a while back.
Never hda a problem with the switchgear rotating accidentaly either.
I'd drill the bars as well!
Buy some Raask Jota bars.
http://www.motorcycle-parts.com.au/Laverda_Bars.jpg
My ex has them on her naked SV650 K3 and loves them. They're multi-adjustable.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1418/1464055740_eacc6862da.jpg?v=0
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1058/1462644021_9501647dd2.jpg?v=0
She has hers set quite low, but they can be raised and pulled back towards the rider.
M+P sell them for £60
I'd drill the bars as well!
If I had adjustable bars I'd file the pip off the switchgear - they clamp up fine even without it, and if they don't a bit of gaffa tape round the bar is enough to hold them.
I've got a pair of bars in the back of my garage that have been on about 5 different bikes, they've had so many different sorts of switchgear mounted they now look like a chromed tube of Swiss cheese.
yorkie_chris
07-01-08, 10:34 AM
Them laverda bars would go well with my gixxer front end...
Hmmmmm :-P
Slight derail, but where can you get the handlebar clamps? Whats a good price? Can't seem to find them for reasonable money anywhere.
Don't file the tab off, drill the bars you muppets.
Why weaken a perfectly good set of handlebars when filing the tab off works just as well?
yorkie_chris
07-01-08, 10:51 AM
I don't think it weakens them substantially, mine were practically tied in a knot and there was no obvious tearing of the metal around the hole (which is the sort of failure I'd expect due to stress concentration etc.)
I just like being able to put the switches where i like them.
Why weaken a perfectly good set of handlebars when filing the tab off works just as well?
The tab is so shallow that you don't have to drill right through. The factory does it anyway.on the cheap chromed bars that come as standard on a naked.
I'll just say, anybody who removes the locating tab is wrong and anybody who drills the bars is right. End of.
I'll just say, anybody who removes the locating tab is wrong and anybody who drills the bars is right. End of.
Maybe you should consider that it's only recently that bikes have come with these daft tabs on the insiode of switchgear. When I started riding no bike had them and switchgear didn't move out of place - so what's the point of them?
File them off, even if you aren't changing your bars...make a stand for simplicity
yorkie_chris
07-01-08, 06:26 PM
I'll just say, anybody who removes the locating tab is wrong and anybody who drills the bars is right. End of.
Because the dabates on here always end that easily :rolleyes:
Maybe you should consider that it's only recently that bikes have come with these daft tabs on the insiode of switchgear. When I started riding no bike had them
My 1970 HONDA 750 had them, just how old are you Lozzo?
The tab is so shallow that you don't have to drill right through. The factory does it anyway.on the cheap chromed bars that come as standard on a naked.
I'll just say, anybody who removes the locating tab is wrong and anybody who drills the bars is right. End of.
Good point, well made.
Actually, no. I need more of an answer than that I'm afraid. Simply stating your position as the right one is only enough if you are a major religion.
Ok, the right hand switch gear also has the throttle tube. If you remove the tab and the screws come loose, accident, bumpy roads whatever. The throttle tube could then possibly move, if you have a bar end it could get stuck against it, stuck throttle, fun.
If no bar end, which is my personal preference, the throttle tube could come off, pulling the throttle hard...
The tab is there for a valid reason, not to inconvenience you while you fit new bars. If the screws are loose then the tab will hold the switch gear, the left not so important, but the right hand side, of utmost importance.
Here endth the lesson, Brother Bear will pass among you with the collection plate...
yorkie_chris
08-01-08, 12:02 AM
I don't have such big chunky bar end weights, so the throttle tube can't actually stick.
The SV uses a pull-pull throttle, so you can always brute force it close.
There's also a kill switch just in case :-P
And one more for a good measure, I check my bike over once a week and have never seen one of those screws loose.
An ingenious little solution for a problem that doesn't exist :-P
My 1970 HONDA 750 had them, just how old are you Lozzo?
I never owned a Honda 750 of that vintage, and they probably pegged the switches because they were so sloppily made.
Maybe I should have said 'virtually' no bike had them.
Ok, the right hand switch gear also has the throttle tube. If you remove the tab and the screws come loose, accident, bumpy roads whatever. The throttle tube could then possibly move, if you have a bar end it could get stuck against it, stuck throttle, fun.
If no bar end, which is my personal preference, the throttle tube could come off, pulling the throttle hard...
If the right side switchgear does move, the throttle will shut under pressure from the carb return spring. If you are in danger of your throttle tube falling off the end of your handlebar, then your riding style needs some serious attention. I never grip the bars tight enough so that could happen, not even when I'm cranked over and knee down.
Clamp the switchgear properly and there's no need for the tabs.
If you need to know how to drill your bars:
Put insulation tape around the bar where you expect the switchgear to go.
Get the switch gear in the right position for your riding style.
Clamp the switchgear down on the insulation tape wrapped bar.
Unscrew switch gear.
There will be a mark on the tape where the locating tab will go.
Drill the hole, a 4mm bit AFAIR.
You can now clamp your switchgear to the bars as Suzuki intended.
There you go boys ;)
No need to remove the tab now.
If you need to know how to drill your bars:
Put insulation tape around the bar where you expect the switchgear to go.
Get the switch gear in the right position for your riding style.
Clamp the switchgear down on the insulation tape wrapped bar.
Unscrew switch gear.
There will be a mark on the tape where the locating tab will go.
Drill the hole, a 4mm bit AFAIR.
You can now clamp your switchgear to the bars as Suzuki intended.
There you go boys ;)
No need to remove the tab now.
Or, take a file, file off the tab.
Job done.
I would suggest this discussion's gone a little circular:smt058
I'd not reckon either way was dangerous, but it's nice to see both sides make a good case.
Sorry Razor, it was a lovely sermon but I'm all out of cash. Good choice of person for "Head of collections" though:smt047
Hehe, my tabs broke off while converting from handlebar to clip-ops!
Quite flimsy they are too! Never had any problems, nice to know it's ok though :)
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