Fabricating a bracket.

[Stig]

I am in the need to fabricate a bracket to support the clocks. I have no idea yet how I am going to achieve this task, I'll think about that when I have the material to be used.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on what to use :?:

I thought of using some sort of sheet metal. But it will need to be pliable enough to bend into the position that I need. It will also need to be strong enough not to bend out of the position I want it in. Lastly in needs to be strong so as not to get metal fatigue due to the vibration that will inevitably be caused.

Idea's anyone :?:

[Wideboy]

im no metal expert but i'd say ally

wait for yorkie_chris he will know

[yorkie_chris]

I'm just revising for an engineering materials exam in the morning.

How convenient. :-P

I'd use sheet metal, anything will do really, but make sure it's supported to that the clocks don't have significant leverage advantage on the bracket, the leverage stresses on the outside of the part cause tiny fractures to grow as well as work hardening the part making it less resistant to snapping.

If you can use sheet ally, and make the bracket a triangular shape so the parts are in pure tension and compression then that'll reduce the chance of fatigue failure.

[StreetHawk]

Cheese? ;-)

[yorkie_chris]

Cheese? ;-)

Going for the original look are we? :-P

[phil24_7]

Sheet ally, get it into shape then weld on a couple of supports to stop it moving.

[ejohnh]

I'd suggest 2 mm stainless. Or:

If you want to paint it then 2 mm mild steel. You'll need a bench vice to bend it neatly.

I'd be inclined to go for the mild steel - tough enough and easy to work.

A blowlamp for heating if you need any tricky bends. :wink:

[rictus01]

Oh Si, lend me you ally welding gear ;)

Right getting realistic just for a moment, whilst others may have funds to burn, I'm guessing you won't want to be doing this more than once and at the most cost effective.

to that end, create a template,rough shape you want and showing the mounting holes, to do this get something like a metal biscuit tin lid (you should be able to cut it with snips (or a big pair of scissors, but don't tell Jo :-#), you should be able to try out various angles of bend to get the right ones.

Once this is done, if you want the shiney look get some stainless, however mild steel will be cheaper and if you're painting it it'll be just as good, 4mm sheet will do nicely and if you bring the template and sheet to me I'll fabricate it for you.

If on the other hand you want to do it yourself, then probably 2mm will do, but make sure you vector in either a central mounting point or one either side to fit a brace(s) to support it, given your access and tools, I'd drill and rivet it to the main bracket.

Cheers Mark.

[Stig]

Oh Si, lend me you ally welding gear ;)

Right getting realistic just for a moment, whilst others may have funds to burn, I'm guessing you won't want to be doing this more than once and at the most cost effective.

to that end, create a template,rough shape you want and showing the mounting holes, to do this get something like a metal biscuit tin lid (you should be able to cut it with snips (or a big pair of scissors, but don't tell Jo :-#), you should be able to try out various angles of bend to get the right ones.

Once this is done, if you want the shiney look get some stainless, however mild steel will be cheaper and if you're painting it it'll be just as good, 4mm sheet will do nicely and if you bring the template and sheet to me I'll fabricate it for you.

If on the other hand you want to do it yourself, then probably 2mm will do, but make sure you vector in either a central mounting point or one either side to fit a brace(s) to support it, given your access and tools, I'd drill and rivet it to the main bracket.

Cheers Mark.

THIS is the sort of answer I was looking for. Thanks to the other suggestions though.

I shall have a looksee over extended weekend that I have coming up. I know exactly what you mean and will produce a template as soon as I can. The only issue that I have is where to mount a bracket from. For the naked yolk there were two handy threaded holes on the underside to mount from. On the faired yolk these are not there. Anyway I shall have a nose around and see what sort of creative mind I have. :lol: Thanks for the help. I hadn't thought of riveting a brace. Duh :!:

[TON2000]

If you have the time, money and the inclination. as a fabricator myself i agree with all of the above statement. 2mm ally should do the job just fine. if you want to get a beautiful design on the go, i would suggest using auto cad and then get the part machined out. should look pucka and fit like a dream. providing that you have all the correct dimentions. also opens up the options of using diffrent materials such as plastics.

TON2000

[northwind]

What are you up to bigape? Going with clipons?

[Stig]

Yup.

Clipons are already on. The clocks were on a bracket which was left over from the curvy clocks. Unfortunately the bracket doesn't work with the 's' top yolk so I need to think of something else.

Either that or put the old naked top yolk back on. Would prefer the 's' top yolk though as it looks much neater.

[yorkie_chris]

Can't you drill and tap the S yoke?

[Stig]

Can't you drill and tap the S yoke?

In a word, no.

[dirtydog]

The clocks were on a bracket which was left over from the curvy clocks. Unfortunately the bracket doesn't work with the 's' top yolk so I need to think of something else.


If you're only going to use 2mm ally what about attaching it to the top yoke using the bolts that hod the clipons in place? The clocks aren't that heavy are they?

[Stig]

If you're only going to use 2mm ally what about attaching it to the top yoke using the bolts that hod the clipons in place? The clocks aren't that heavy are they?

I've thought of this and will probably use this option. I assume you mean the two small bolts that prevent the clipons from moving round the forks rather than the bolts that hold the clipons on. That's what I did with the naked top yolk but the bolt holes are located at the closer end to where the clocks will be mounted and closer together. The clock is the naked pointy one. Heavier than other naked clocks I have had experience with. It's the vibrations that I think will cause metal fatigue.