Renthal Bars - Which Ones? & Fitting?

[SV-net]

I see lots of options which should I get for my K3 650 N.

Will I have to cut em to length?

Are they smart on the SV? What would you suggest?

[Bear]

Ultra-lows fit straight onto the naked without having to adjust cables, although they are approx.1.25 inches too long on each side. Fit them, get an idea of where you want the controls, then fit a jubilee clip round the bar to give you a guide (this'll help you get a straight cut as the jubilee clip is stronger than the bars) and chop the remaining off with a hacksaw/dremel/whatever.

There is a locating tab on the inside of the controls for the k5 SV, and there's probably one on the k3 as well. Opinions differ (Don't they Razor) about what to do with it. Some say drill the bars so you can fit the tab into the new bars, I personally go with filing the tab down so they will fit wherever you want them. If you wanna drill them, do a search as it's been covered a few times.

Hope that helps.

[Bear]

Oh, and by the way: the big difference is in the way they look, and it slightly changes the rake of the bars, allowing what I think is a more comfy position for your wrists.

Good luck!

[sv650nutter149]

yeah i just put rental streetfighter bars on mine and its well nice!!!

[Razor]

Don't listen to them, drill a hole for the locating tabs, unless you're smarter than Suzuki...

[DoubleD]

I say cut the locating tabs off, I have just done this very thing as it is so much easier than drilling a round bar.

[Razor]

I say cut the locating tabs off, I have just done this very thing as it is so much easier than drilling a round bar.

So you're saying it's too hard so you took the easy route?

Not so hard, put insulation tape around the bar, cinch the switchgear and the tab will mark the tape, drill through the tape carefully and the bit won't skip, easy peasey.

[DoubleD]

not to hard, just to much messing about, I have moved the switch gear about 3 times so far to get it just right so my holes would have been in the wrong place.

[Lozzo]

Millions of bikes around the world managed for many many years without locating tabs on the switchgear. I file them off when I swop bars and the switches don't move. On some bikes you need to wrap a bit of duct tape round the bar to help the switch grip. I really cannot see the point of locating tabs.

Leaving them on restricts the amount of adjustability you get.

[Lozzo]

Don't listen to them, drill a hole for the locating tabs, unless you're smarter than Suzuki...

I suppose leaving standard fork springs in is being as smart as Suzuki, or leaving the stock shock in...shall I go on? I could spend hours writing a list of how we can be smarter than Suzuki if you like.

[Razor]

So YOU claim to be smarter than Suzuki then?

I despair...

[DoubleD]

So YOU claim to be smarter than Suzuki then?

I despair...


So what changes / mods have you made to your bike, I'm guessing 1 or 2 :rolleyes:

[yorkie_chris]

Oh dear we're back to this again.

So far 5000 miles with no locator holes for the switchgear, I'm still alive.

[R-Razor]

I have the Ultra-Lows on my K7. I got mine pre-drilled from Banditmania ;)
You don't have to cut them if you don't want to. They are a little wider but the stock cables, wires, and hoses will fit. The throttle cables and the wires for the left housing are a bit too short, but taking them out of the guide brackets will give you some extra length. Just make sure they sit well and don't get mashed og bent when you turn the steering.

[Razor]

So what changes / mods have you made to your bike, I'm guessing 1 or 2 :rolleyes:


It's a 2002 SV6550S with naked top yoke, flat drag bars, hel lines, wave discs, racetech emulators and springs, Hagon rear shock, Aprillia RS125 nose fairing, sharkskinz tail piece, 2WJ front muddie, BMC RS filter, 165DJ mains, ignition advancer, velocity stacks, Akra exhaust pipework with homemade end can, corbin seat.
My frame is off being powder coated black and my wheels will be fluro pink, bodywork will be matt black with hot pink racing stripes.

So you're right only 1 or 2 mods :rolleyes:

Still kept the locating tabs!

[DoubleD]

So YOU claim to be smarter than Suzuki then?
I despair...

It's a 2002 SV6550S with naked top yoke, flat drag bars, hel lines, wave discs, racetech emulators and springs, Hagon rear shock, Aprillia RS125 nose fairing, sharkskinz tail piece, 2WJ front muddie, BMC RS filter, 165DJ mains, ignition advancer, velocity stacks, Akra exhaust pipework with homemade end can, corbin seat.
My frame is off being powder coated black and my wheels will be fluro pink, bodywork will be matt black with hot pink racing stripes.

Still kept the locating tabs!

So you know better than Suzuki as well in order to make all those changes then??

Sounds like a pretty cool bike, have you got any photos??

[Dangerous Dave]

I haven't had locator tabs on my switch gears for 5 years, no problems reported yet!!!

[Red Herring]

Could it be that the locator tabs are there to help the bloke on the production line turn them all out the same? Not exactly a lot of stress on switchgear, I cut my tabs off and I've never had them move, apart from the half dozen times I've done it to get the positioning right. If you are the sort of person who wants to change the handlebars to get what you want then you are equally unlikely to want to put up with switches in the wrong place.

[Robw#70]

Gasgas trials bars are the best for road bikes, have the right sort of bend and they're long enough to the bend (even after cutting down) to fit all the switchgear etc on.

They need about 1" off each end

[Red Herring]

These are the renthal bars I fitted to mine, did need to get a longer clutch cable though, and I'm still working on getting the throttle cables right.http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg104/Broomewood/9thMarchinstrumentcluster.jpg