Does my clutch not detach properly?

[NadineDieBiene]

Hi guys, I'm so tempted to continue my last thread...

But I guess it's a new topic with a mini question:

For the last two years or so, my clutch does not seem to detach correctly (don't know how to put it). For example, if I leave the bike in 1st gear, there is no chance I can push her forward, although I have the clutch handle pulled in all the way. This problem has gotten worse gradually. I think even when the bike is in neutral, it is still harder than when I first got her to move her.

Now it got to the point where I have difficuties doing a "3 point turn" (Nobody is talking me into a u-turn please), as I can only tiptoe on the bike anyway. So that is a bit annoying, cos it looks as if I can't handle my own bike!

Has anybody had the same problem? Any suggestions how I can make it better? :D

All the best,
Nadine

[Lozzo]

Sounds like the clutch is dragging. What this means is the cable isn't pulling the mechanism far enough to totally disengage the clutch when you pull the lever in. You might need to take up the slack in the cable first, before looking at anything else.

This is easy. Where the cable comes up to the lever there is an adjuster screw with a larger locking ring. You undo the locking ring and wind the adjuster out from the bar until there is only about 2mm of free slack movement between the lever and the black part it comes against. Then you simply lock the large ring against the black part again when the adjustment is correct.

What you are trying to get is 2mm free play at the adjuster end before the cable starts to pull against the clutch springs. You'll feel when that happens because the lever goes from floppy to move to much harder.

[Dirk Eisner]

Try to adjust the clutch cable to make sure that the clutch fully disengaged if you sure that the clutch opens fully and the problem persist, do the following: put the bike in third gear while standing, pull the front break and slowly release the clutch while you increase the the engine rpm, if you can engage the clutch fully without stalling the bike you will new clutch plates. This is a bit of a cheap trick but normally is a good indicator.
If this test fails you may need to disassemble the clutch and measure the thickness of the clutch drive plates and replace them if the thickness is below 2.92 mm or 0.115 in.
The clutch is a wear item and it needs to be replaced from time to time. The symptoms you describe are a usually an indication that the clutch is in need of replacing.

[Ol Boc]

For example, if I leave the bike in 1st gear, there is no chance I can push her forward, although I have the clutch handle pulled in all the way. This problem has gotten worse gradually. I think even when the bike is in neutral, it is still harder than when I first got her to move her.

Whoa! Before we all say "It's the clutch", I think a bit of further investigation is needed....

1. When the engine is running, does the bike try to jump forward when you put it into gear?

2. If you come to a stop, with the engine running and the bike in gear, does it try to creep forward?

3. With the engine OFF, the bike in neutral, is it hard to move it?

If it's Yes, Yes and No, it sounds like a clutch-related problem. If it's No, No and Yes, it's probably not.

[Jay1]

I get similar symptoms but not as severe. When the bike is cold and I put it in gear it does jump forward very slightly. and it is harder to push when in gear, and the clutch in , than when it's in neutral.

Will try the cable adjust thing and see if that helps.

Roughly how long do clutches last then?

[embee]

Hi Nadine

After the last one this will be a doddle for you, you've already been in there.

There have been loads of threads on adjusting the clutch, so many I can't quickly find the relevant ones, so here goes.

Start from scratch to get it all adjusted properly.

Take the plastic sprocket cover off (you've been there!)

Loosen the cable adjuster at he handlebar end and screw it in to the lever as far as you can so the cable is loose.
Do the same where the cable fixes to the engine down at the generator cover (you know where that is)

Next, in the centre of the clutch operating mechanism there is a nut with a small screw in the middle. This is the first thing to set correctly.
Loosen the nut and with a small screwdriver turn the screw out a little (anticlockwise) to ensure there is no load on it. Then turn it in until you feel it meet the pushrod (it will be obvious), from this position turn it back out about 1/4 turn and GENTLY tighten the locknut so there is some clearance in the mechanism. Be gentle with this because it is easy to overtighten the locknut and strip threads.

Lift the lever with your fingers and see if it becomes hard (i.e. the slack is taken out of the mechanism) when the angle between the cable and the lever is a bit less than 90deg. Repeat the adjustment of the small screw until the angle is correct, then carefully tighten the locknut while holding the screw so it doesn't turn. The idea is that the lever works just each side of 90deg to the cable to be most efficient.

Lubricate the lever pivot region while you are there. Oil is fine, grease is better, chain spray is better than nothing as it works into the mechanism.

You have set the handlebar end adjuster fully loose, so now adjust the bottom end cable adjuster until there is a few mm slack left in the cable, and carefully tighten the locknuts on the cable adjuster.

Now up at the handlebar end turn the cable adjuster until there is about 2mm or so free movement in the cable (estimate the gap betwen the lever and the handlebar bracket when the cable just gets tight, it's not critical)

This should get the clutch mechanism correctly set.

(edit - note that the amount of free movement usually changes between hot and cold, make sure that there is always a little free play at all times, make small adjustments as required once you ride it again)

It is normal for the clutch to drag a bit when everything is cold and the oil is thick, especially if you try to push the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. This is nothing to worry about.

The other thing which can affect the clutch drag is the oil. What type of oil did you use?

[timwilky]

Second Embee. Your starting point has to be the correctly set up clutch.

[Blue_SV650S]

..

Wot he said!! ;)

My bikes clutch drags quite a bit when the engine/oil is cold, it is much better/virtually free when hot. 8)

Anyway as embee said, get in there and adjust it, no problem for a veteran like you now!! ;)

To add to what embee said, there is a nifty little write-up and diagram in the manual for this one. page 2-17 (http://www.sv650.org/SV_service_manuals/2_Periodic_Maintence.pdf) ... the angle of the arm is critical to operation as it sets up the leverage and travel! so make sure that is correct! ;) Also that you don't have too much slack at the bar.

[yorkie_chris]

I think even when the bike is in neutral, it is still harder than when I first got her to move her.

Could possibly be brakes or something else then if there's drag with it in neutral.

Do the checks as said by ol boc.

chris

[Blue_SV650S]

Could possibly be brakes or something else then if there's drag with it in neutral.

Do the checks as said by ol boc.

chris

Well spotted - yes, if the bike is in neutral, then it is nothing to do with the clutch ;)