RE: Chain Tension

[G]

Recently my chain has become very very loose, and it seems to have become that way very quickly.

Could this purely be because my last 750+ miles have been mainly 2up riding with my girlfriend, does this stretch the chain more than usual, or is there likely to be deeper issues to think about?

How much would somewhere charge to tighten it up quickly. I dont have a rear padock stand and my torque wrench has broken.

Its about the only thing left to do for it to be 100%. It just felt very strange riding it on sunday, didnt feel right at all + the back wheel seemed to be locking up loads which i thought I had managed to stop doing and I'm sure I'm not riding any different to normal. Would a very loose chain add to this, or am I infact just riding like a goon.

Thanks in Advance

[flymo]

Recently my chain has become very very loose, and it seems to have become that way very quickly.

Could this purely be because my last 750+ miles have been mainly 2up riding with my girlfriend, does this stretch the chain more than usual, or is there likely to be deeper issues to think about?

How much would somewhere charge to tighten it up quickly. I dont have a rear padock stand and my torque wrench has broken.

Its about the only thing left to do for it to be 100%. It just felt very strange riding it on sunday, didnt feel right at all + the back wheel seemed to be locking up loads which i thought I had managed to stop doing and I'm sure I'm not riding any different to normal. Would a very loose chain add to this, or am I infact just riding like a goon.

Thanks in Advance

You dont need a torque wrench or even a paddock stand to do this, just a spanner and something to loosen the main wheel nut (24mm socket or a large adjustable spanner)

I wont make any comments on the girlfriend side :-), may depend on how heavy she is! nah, it depends more on wether it was adjusted properly in the first place and how old or worn the chain/sprockets are.

To adjust it though you simply need to loosen the rear wheel axle nut, not much just enough that the rear wheel will slide back/forward when you adjust the nuts on the chain adjusters.

The adjusters are at the rear of each swing arm leg (sorry if you know this already). On the side you should have a gradient scale enabling you to adjust each one by exactly the same amount. A good tip is to move the nuts half a turn at a time each, that way you wont take the wheel out of alignment.

Ideally the chain slack should be checked with somebody sitting on the bike, get a helper (your girlfriend) to sit on the bike normally and adjust while shes on it. You need to end up with about 25mm approx of slack mid way along the chain (thats up and down movement).

When you're happy, tighen up the main wheel nut and away you go. If you dont have a torque wrench just make sure its nice and tight, you'll find it pretty difficult to overtighten the main nut.

[Luckypants]

Where in the SV manual does it say chain slack should be checked with someone on the bike?

[G]

She is not that heavy but I am

I'm maybe 13.5 - 14stone and she is about 8 stone or there abouts.

To be fair I checked the chain whilst off the bike but it comfortably had enough slack in it to beable to touch the rubber buffer bit on the swing arm.

I will get someone more in the know to check it first then maybe have a look into doing it myself, I just hate adjusting parts without torquing them up right on the basis that a torque setting has been given for a reason lol.

The chain has only seen 3300 miles of action, some of it 2up and the rest of it 'spirited' riding.

[flymo]

Where in the SV manual does it say chain slack should be checked with someone on the bike?

It probably doesnt, thats just something I've always done on other bikes. Ok, feel free to sit or not sit during adjustment. You'll be in the right ball park either way. :rolleyes:

[flymo]

I just hate adjusting parts without torquing them up right on the basis that a torque setting has been given for a reason lol.

For the most part thats correct, sometimes to ensure that the bolt isnt done up too tight, sometimes to make sure that the correct amount of stretch is applied to the bolt. But this particular bolt is most likely to have a torque setting to ensure its on tight enough that it wont come loose.

On the pointy its 100Nm which is 'bloody tight' on my scientific scale of 'tightness'. If you're not comfortable then as you say get somebody to do it for you.

[Biker Biggles]

How often do you lube the chain?3000 miles without maintenance will be enough to destroy it.

[G]

Lubed every 100 - 200 miles with pj1, its always kept in great condition.

[ejohnh]

Manual says check slack while bike is on sidestand(curvy that is).

Harsh acceleration and closed throttle decelerating using the engine(enough to lock the back wheel?) only will increase wear rate. Your chain will be under greater load with 2 up as well. However the most chainwear will be associated with not keeping it clean and lubricated.

I got a scott oiler which seems to work fine. Chain always looks clean and lubed. Rear wheel rim looks dirty and lubed, but I'd rather degrease the wheel every week than worry about the chain and sprockets giving up before time. :o)

[northwind]

If the chain's too tight in the first place it'll wear fast, since the movement of the suspension uses up slack, and naturally the suspension compresses more with 2 people than with one. But that's a total guess ;)

[petevtwin650]

If the chain has had a few miles on it, it could be on it's way out. Chains that suddenly require lots of adjustment are usually sha66ed. Be careful as the next step is a snapped one.

We ride everywhere 2 up and get normal wear. Mind you, you are more aggressive on the throttle than me I reckon. :D:D

As regards tightening up the axle nut by feel, my mates son did his up so tight it was bowing in the swingarm apparently. :-?

[flymo]

As regards tightening up the axle nut by feel, my mates son did his up so tight it was bowing in the swingarm apparently. :-?

Its all in the wrist :-). Only way you are going to do serious damage on a 100Nm nut is to shove a 6ft pole on the end of the socket wrench.

[petevtwin650]

Its all in the wrist :-). Only way you are going to do serious damage on a 100Nm nut is to shove a 6ft pole on the end of the socket wrench.

I think that's what he was using. Strangely the pointy is 100Nm whereas the curvy is only 65Nm. Huge difference.

[G]

If the chain has had a few miles on it, it could be on it's way out. Chains that suddenly require lots of adjustment are usually sha66ed. Be careful as the next step is a snapped one.

We ride everywhere 2 up and get normal wear. Mind you, you are more aggressive on the throttle than me I reckon. :D:D

As regards tightening up the axle nut by feel, my mates son did his up so tight it was bowing in the swingarm apparently. :-?

Its not got that many miles on to be fair in temrs of chain life (3300), and to date it has never been adjusted.

It just seemed weird that i check it every time i lube the chain and never noticed it loose before, and this time I just though 'oh my, thats loose'

[petevtwin650]

Well I would be worried. Is it a top quality chain from a reliable source?

And sometimes even top name chain makers have off manufacturing days.

[G]

Its a factory chain, the bike is literally only just a year old.

[petevtwin650]

So the bike has sat for long periods of time then. Has the chain always been lubed. If it got rusty, it could be prematurely wearing out. Unlikely though IMO.

Can only think it's be adjusted too tight. :smt090

[flymo]

I think that's what he was using. Strangely the pointy is 100Nm whereas the curvy is only 65Nm. Huge difference.

Wow, that is quite a difference.

[El Saxo]

I think that's what he was using. Strangely the pointy is 100Nm whereas the curvy is only 65Nm. Huge difference.

And something that I've only found out by reading this thread - thanks pete cos if you hadn't posted I probably still wouldn't know.

The Haynes manual for the SV (the new version that covers 99-05) only specifies 65Nm - it makes no mention of 100Nm for the K3 onwards - a bloody glaring omission if you ask me!! :mad:

It seems the torque wrench I just bought (goes up to 80Nm) isn't quite the bargain I thought... :roll:

[G]

So the bike has sat for long periods of time then. Has the chain always been lubed. If it got rusty, it could be prematurely wearing out. Unlikely though IMO.

Can only think it's be adjusted too tight. :smt090

Its never really been sat for a long time. The longest it hasnt been riden for is 3 weeks. Always lubed, and never rusty.

I could well be explaining the looseness of it poorly as I'm pretty sure it isnt knackered after 1 year and 3300 miles. Its never been mistreated or poorly maintained. Its just never been tightened since new and probably just needs tweeking.

However being 100% novice in this area I thought i would pop a post up anyway.

[petevtwin650]

And something that I've only found out by reading this thread - thanks pete cos if you hadn't posted I probably still wouldn't know.

The Haynes manual for the SV (the new version that covers 99-05) only specifies 65Nm - it makes no mention of 100Nm for the K3 onwards - a bloody glaring omission if you ask me!! :mad:

It seems the torque wrench I just bought (goes up to 80Nm) isn't quite the bargain I thought... :roll:

To be fair it was Flymo Racer that posted the figure of 100 mn. I can't confirm that and can't explain the difference in curvy/pointy figures.

[flymo]

Yeah, its on page 7-46 of the K3 Suzuki workshop manual. 100Nm or 72.5 lb/ft.....and page 7-41 so dont think its a typo. I've checked the curvy manual too and you're right, it clearly shows 65 Nm.

This bike we are talking about, is it a pointy or curvey? dont think thats been mentioned in the thread has it?

[El Saxo]

Yeah, its on page 7-46 of the K3 Suzuki workshop manual. 100Nm or 72.5 lb/ft.....and page 7-41 so dont think its a typo. I've checked the curvy manual too and you're right, it clearly shows 65 Nm.

Page 6-24 in the K5 owners manual - got a mate at work to check for me cos I couldnt find mine, hence why I bought the Haynes manual (and I'm also planning on servicing the bike on Saturday).

Out of interest, what could potentially go wrong if I'd only tightened the rear axle nut on my K5 to 65Nm, would the nut be likely to undo itself while I was out riding? Cos if anything dangerous could happen - I really ought to ring up Haynes and tell them! :lol:

[Girth]

I think that's what he was using. Strangely the pointy is 100Nm whereas the curvy is only 65Nm. Huge difference.


The Thou is 100-120nm with a 36mm socket!

[steveg]

Hi ,

I check chain and adjust at the tightest part , IMHO if you adjust chain to 30mm on side stand then I sit on back its as tight as a rod ( then again I am 15 stone) , I adjust so there's 30 mm when I am sat on bike to allow for suspension movements etc

re chain life the original fit chain ( DID?) is very good quality should last 15-20k with reg lubing , maybe 30 -40k with a scotoiler

Cheers Steve

[yorkie_chris]

Harsh acceleration and closed throttle decelerating using the engine(enough to lock the back wheel?) only will increase wear rate.

How so?

[TEL]

To be fair it was Flymo Racer that posted the figure of 100 mn. I can't confirm that and can't explain the difference in curvy/pointy figures.

It must be for the extra power the pointy pushes out......:wink:

[northwind]

Funny, mine seems to get by just fine with 65nm :D The whole swingarm and mounting is a different design though, so no great shock that it's different.

[Tim in Belgium]

The rear adjusters are different, so is the swing arm between the two models, so I just guess the pointy rear end can take the extra squeeze.

Doh - just read Northy's post above properly, I'm repeating....

[yorkie_chris]

Funny, mine seems to get by just fine with 65nm :D

Mine seems fine with "yeah that'll do"

[Ratty]

Graeme

Chain adjustment is a doddle with just the stuff you have in the toolkit and can be done on the side stand.. 3000 plus is a long time to go without adjustment so it will be getting sloppy. You can tell if it's excessively worn by pulling the links away from the teeth at the back of the rear sprocket. It shouldn't pull off much at all or it's on it's way out.

Wether you do it youself or not.... make sure that extreme care is taken when the axel is undone because the adjuster plates can bend and spin with the nut (on Pointy 650) and severely score the swing arm. I've seen posts on here where this damage has been caused by "expert" tyre fitters. I used to use a small clamp onto the plate while I un-did the nut to prevent spinning.

HTH Ratty

[Ratty]

Graeme

Chain adjustment is a doddle with just the stuff you have in the toolkit and can be done on the side stand.. 3000 plus is a long time to go without adjustment so it will be getting sloppy. You can tell if it's excessively worn by pulling the links away from the teeth at the back of the rear sprocket. It shouldn't pull off much at all or it's on it's way out.

Whether you do it yourself or not.... make sure that extreme care is taken when the axel is undone because the adjuster plates can bend and spin with the nut (on Pointy 650) and severely score the swing arm. I've seen posts on here where this damage has been caused by "expert" tyre fitters. I used to use a small clamp onto the plate while I un-did the nut to prevent spinning.

HTH Ratty

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.

Graeme, it sounds like you had better bring it down to me for a check & adjustment FOC of course, providing you make the coffee:D.

Cheers.

[G]

Good morning all.

Graeme, it sounds like you had better bring it down to me for a check & adjustment FOC of course, providing you make the coffee:D.

Cheers.

Seriously? :eek: Thanks

Are you open Friday morning, could i bring it along then if your not to busy as I have booked the day off as holiday?

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.

It'll only take a few minutes to assess & adjust your chains condition, & unlike most other workshops minor tasks such as the above are usually FOC. (Providing the customer does kettle duty):D.

Friday morning should be fine, just give me a call first to make sure I haven't had to rush off somewhere, (or more likely run away screaming).:D. And I'll give you directions, as the Business Park I'm on is easy enough to find, but I'm well tucked away on it.

Cheers.

Tel; 01623 757887.

[G]

Nice one I'll give you a call on friday morning then. :cool:

[punyXpress]

Haynes Manual - Curvey
Is that the one that tells you to remove the rear exhaust for access to the rear shock
and
tells you to remove the rear shock for access to the exhaust ?
What's that all about ???

[yorkie_chris]

Dunno, can get either of them off without removing the other though so it's alright.