Top Yoke removal Help

[DoubleD]

I have got myself a new Top Yoke and I have a couple of questions to ask the ORG please.

Do I need to take the bike weight off the front forks when I take the Top Yoke off?

I guessing I have to undo the center nut on the top yoke, does this mess up the bearings and what not, IE do I need to be very careful when taking it off??

I don't need to touch the shocks do I, the top yoke will just lift off them yes?

can't think of anything else yet but if there is anything else I should look for then please let me know.

Thanks

[petevtwin650]

Got yourself a fancy yoke like ours DD?. :D

Talking from experience on my curvy. The forks are held by 2 bolts on each leg on the lower yoke. The top yoke has one each side. So you should be able to release the top bolts and take off the yoke ok after undoing the top nut. Also you'll need to take off the ignition switch, which will be held by torx security bolts.

[DoubleD]

Thanks Pete

Not quite the same as yours, mine has risers on it for some nice renthal bars I got.

cool, just as I thought, top nut and bolts on the yoke, just worried when I take the top nut off the bearings are going to jump out at me.

torx bolts, bugger guess i'll be buying some of them they will come in again.

[petevtwin650]

Ah, ok. Yeah, the bearings are held in place by the big castle nut underneath the yoke.

The bolts are security Torx, or they were on mine. That means they have a pin in the middle of the recess so you will nead an extra special socket or drill out the pin. Not easy. I used standard allen bolts for replacement.

[flymo]

nah, nothing to worry about with this. You need to remove the top center nut and washer. Loosen the bolts that tighten it to the top of the forks and give it a few taps from beneath. Provided you havent loosened the fork bolts on the lower yoke it'll be fine.

Once you've removed the top yoke you'll see two locking rings. If you leave these in place then you dont need to worry about bearings in the head at all.

[DoubleD]

Thanks again, so top nut off and everything will stay in place.

Yeah I got some standard allen bolts as part as the 'bolt kit' that came with the new top yoke.

I'll have a closer look at the ignition bolts later. I'm doing this with all the fairing on so it is a little dark/cramped under there.

I'm also replaceing the front brake lines with some nice HEL performace Stainless Steal lines so I have got all the old pipes off as well, also got some new longer throttle cables so going to be doing this for a couple of days/weeks.

But it will be done for NW3

[flymo]

I had to remove the ignition switch from mine only the other day. Drilling the center out of those torx bolts was a little awkward so I wouldnt attempt that with it on the bike. If you can reach underneath or move the radiator forward you can disconnect the ignition switch connector and remove it all in one go. That way you can attack the bolts on a workbench without damaging the bike.

You'll be skidding along the tank paint with your drill otherwise :-)

[DoubleD]

that sounds like a plan, thanks flymo racer

[petevtwin650]

I was lucky and borrowed this tool which had the right sized socket on it. the bolts are loctited in so you'll need to use a bit of force. I managed to undo mine in situ. :cool:

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/petevtwin650/org%20tech/securitytorxsocketsrs.jpg

[TSM]

I had to remove the ignition switch from mine only the other day. Drilling the center out of those torx bolts was a little awkward so I wouldnt attempt that with it on the bike. If you can reach underneath or move the radiator forward you can disconnect the ignition switch connector and remove it all in one go. That way you can attack the bolts on a workbench without damaging the bike.

You'll be skidding along the tank paint with your drill otherwise :-)

why drill, just tap the pin sideways and it will snap off.

[flymo]

why drill, just tap the pin sideways and it will snap off.

Didnt try snapping the pins off actually, was worried about damaging the torx profile. Ah well done it now.

If they come off pretty easy then it could be done whilst still on the bike.

[nomad]

I am thinking of doing the same mod, did you buy a kit and if so which one?

Also, could you post a couple of photos when your done, I wouldn't mind seeing how it looks, all the shots I have seen of this mod are close up and it would be good to see the overall effect.

Cheers

[petevtwin650]

Didnt try snapping the pins off actually, was worried about damaging the torx profile.



It was suggested to me as well, the pin snapping idea. Wasn't sure it would work. They wouldn't be much good as security bolts if they were that easy to overcome surely.

And I too was worried about damaging the Torx profile.

[Hooligan]

Quick little tip, when loosening special bolts off, use a automatic centre punch. Start by putting a little dint at the edge of the bolt, then point the direction the bolt is to be losened and keep on punching. The shock losens bolts, even rounded off ones. This is what you use on car ignition barrels to take them off, as they are bolts with no type head, just flat.
Just a thought, which may be useful to someone.

[Red Herring]

I just used a hacksaw to cut a slot across the top of the bolts, then used an impact driver with a screwdriver attachment, came straight out.

[DoubleD]

I am thinking of doing the same mod, did you buy a kit and if so which one?

Also, could you post a couple of photos when your done, I wouldn't mind seeing how it looks, all the shots I have seen of this mod are close up and it would be good to see the overall effect.

Cheers

Have a LOOK HERE (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=104705) there is a discount code as well so you can get 10% off the price.

I will be putting some pics up once done but if you want pics faster then have a search for pics of BluePete's bike as he has the same kit already fitted.

[Lozzo]

It was suggested to me as well, the pin snapping idea. Wasn't sure it would work. They wouldn't be much good as security bolts if they were that easy to overcome surely.

And I too was worried about damaging the Torx profile.

It really is as easy as that, believe me. You just put a small screwdriver blade against the side of each pin and give them a whack - they just snap off.

[DoubleD]

might give this a go first, thanks.

[yorkie_chris]

It was suggested to me as well, the pin snapping idea. Wasn't sure it would work. They wouldn't be much good as security bolts if they were that easy to overcome surely.

And I too was worried about damaging the Torx profile.

Whats the point of using security bolts there anyway? If someones nicked the bike then they'll just nip down the motor factors and get the readily available tool for it anyway.

You can drill them, which is a bit awkward, snap them or just batter the pins down, brutal, but works.

[DoubleD]

Just found THESE (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/100PC-BIT-SET-TAMPERPROOF-TORX-SECURITY-SCREWDRIVER-HEX_W0QQitemZ190199388851QQihZ009QQcategoryZ63917Q QtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) so will probably get them for that price.

[northwind]

Whats the point of using security bolts there anyway? If someones nicked the bike then they'll just nip down the motor factors and get the readily available tool for it anyway.


Yep, they only inconvenience the owners, who discover after taking their bike to bits that they can't get the part they need off, and now they can't ride to Halfords either :( ****ing pointless things. Easier to damage than an allen head too. I hates em...

[Dangerous Dave]

I replaced mine with standard allen head bolts, a thief is gonna pick your bike up a throw it in the back of a van anyway so the type of bolt isn't really applicable.

[DoubleD]

Well I came accross some security Torx bits so no need to take hammers to the pins so it should be off in no time..... watch this space.

[Lissa]

Well I came accross some security Torx bits so no need to take hammers to the pins so it should be off in no time..... watch this space.

Famous last words! I hope you were touching wood when you said that:D


Pete's '10 minute jobs' usually turn into several hours of swearing and me conspicuous by my abscence:)

[DoubleD]

.... so I wasn't touching wood ok and the bolts are still in place!

I'm trying to do this in the dark and with all the fairing on, there is not even any room to cut my fingers ;)

[Lissa]

.... so I wasn't touching wood ok and the bolts are still in place!

I'm trying to do this in the dark and with all the fairing on, there is not even any room to cut my fingers ;)

Pete did it with the fairing in place but used several quarter inch drive extensions and went up from underneath (oo-er!)

Good job you haven't cut your fingers...............my plasters are no good to you sat here:D

[northwind]

When I did mine, I think I disconnected the lock from the loom, I definately ended up with the yoke upside down on the forks to brace it, and I used a soldering gun to add heat to the bolts before using an impact driver to shift them. They still put up a fight.

[bad-sv650]

getting back to the top yoke.

I'm tring to get mine off to change the left hand clipon.

I've undone the center bolt, and losened the two end allen bolts, and it's not lifting off. have i missed something? :( can't see any other bolts.

Help please :smt100

[Lozzo]

getting back to the top yoke.

I'm tring to get mine off to change the left hand clipon.

I've undone the center bolt, and losened the two end allen bolts, and it's not lifting off. have i missed something? :( can't see any other bolts.

Help please :smt100

Is the yoke screwed to the clip-ons from underneath, some are but not sure about SV ones.

[yorkie_chris]

Curvy ones use locator bolts, you'll need to undo these, or undo the clipon pinch bolts too.
Then it might need a bit of a tap to get it to shift.

[northwind]

Yep, curvy SV ones are.

[bad-sv650]

oh i see, but there are locators on each end, but no heads. just looks like a thead. mmmmmmmmm. getting confused now :shaking:

[petevtwin650]

In the diagram below item 3 is the clip on locator bolt, item 4 is the clamp bolt. Obviously there are one of each on each side.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/petevtwin650/clipons.gif

[bad-sv650]

replaced the clipon today, it went well apart from the top yoke needs a good tapping from the under side, just to get it moving.

Once it started moving the job went ok , and replaced the left hand clipon in under one hour, all done :smt101 now i have my bar end weights on as last !

Thanks for the info.