head bearing nut question ?

[bad-sv650]

how tight do you do up the steering head bearing nut?

I've tapped mine so it's just tight, is that ok?

[Lissa]

how tight do you do up the steering head bearing nut?

I've tapped mine so it's just tight, is that ok?

If you mean the steering stem nut, it's supposed to be torqued up to 65nm on a curvy.

[bad-sv650]

oh, best knock it back to where it was, thought it was abit lose :-k

I'll get it looked at properly soon I's thinks.

[Berlin]

Hmmm, Might be two different things being talked about here. The bearing and the lock nut for the bearing. I'd presume it's the latter that is torqued to 65 Nm. If you tightened the bearing down to that it'd damage the bearing wouldn't it?

Sounds like the bearing is just right when you tightened it till it's "just tight".

Carl

[flymo]

Hmmm, Might be two different things being talked about here. The bearing and the lock nut for the bearing. I'd presume it's the latter that is torqued to 65 Nm. If you tightened the bearing down to that it'd damage the bearing wouldn't it?

Sounds like the bearing is just right when you tightened it till it's "just tight".

Carl

...three things maybe. You have the first nut, then a washer and a locknut. Then there is the very top steering stem nut that goes above the top yoke. They are all different torques so need to be clear which one.

[21QUEST]

He has got a Curvy so which has, one adjuster nut, then top yoke........


Ben

[flymo]

He has got a Curvy so which has, one adjuster nut, then top yoke........


Ben

I see, no lock nut on a curvy?

[yorkie_chris]

Yup, only one bearing preload (?) nut and one nut above the top yoke.

[northwind]

Yup. For me, the torque setting on that bottom one is "Till the forks stop rattling, then a little bit more, but not so much that the forks are stiff" but that's not an entirely scientific answer ;)

[Blue_SV650S]

Section 6-26 of the (chassis) manual (http://www.sv650.org/SV_service_manuals/6_Chassis.pdf)

That is the official way, but I use the same method as Northy ;)

[bad-sv650]

Yup. For me, the torque setting on that bottom one is "Till the forks stop rattling, then a little bit more, but not so much that the forks are stiff" but that's not an entirely scientific answer ;)

Thats just the same as I've done. funny i was suffering from some rattling from the forks, now it's gone since I've tightened this nut, it's the one with some slots that go around it. :rolleyes: the bike feels abit different now, but maybe it's right.

[skeetly]

How do you guys torque up the head nut on the pointy?
I need to grease the bearings and the manual says I need a 'special tool'.

[flymo]

just at it says in post 11 right above yours. Only 'special' tool required is a spanner.

[skeetly]

So, er, chisel Ok then?
I might have some c spanners achsully...pipe?

[skeetly]

cunning plan develops involving a socket, a welder and some small bolts............

[embee]

You really ought to use a C-spanner if at all possible, one thing which rings warning bells to me is seeing castellated nuts which have been beaten with chisels etc. What else am I going to find?

The curvey SV is quite easy to get right by feel as the others say. Note that when you tighten down the cap nut on top of the yoke it will invariably tighten the bearing adjustment. If you can get the front wheel off the ground (or wheel out) it's much easier.

I usually just lightly nip the bearing nut, then nip the cap nut gently, try it for feel, tweak the bearing nut as required, nip the cap nut further etc. Basically set it as tight as you can before you start to feel resistance, slight pre-load is preferable to loose. Pre-load they will tolerate, loose results in hammering and "brinelling" or denting of the bearings so they become notchy, then it's replacement.

If they are too tight the steering will wander at low speed, then back off a touch.

[skeetly]

I had a little think after I mentioned chisels and realised that was a bit too cack handed.
I think I'll make a 'special tool' from an old 1/2" socket the same outside diameter as the 'diameter' of the inside of the nitches and weld some 'pins' to the socket that will fit the notches.

[Dangerous Dave]

A castle socket is the correct tool.....

http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=165&pictureid=1371

...although a c-spanner is the best alternative.

[northwind]

I uses a big nail with der pointy end ground off. Doesn't damage the stem nut anything like as much as a screwdriver or similiar. Still hardy a precision tool though, proper tools much better.

[embee]

With the curvey a C-spanner is better than a castle socket because you'll almost certainly need to tweak the bearing nut as you tighten the cap nut, you can't do that with a socket.

The C-spanner doesn't need to be very special, you're not going to be putting a lot of load on it, all the proper tightening is done on the cap nut.

[skeetly]

Found out the part number for the castellated stem nut 'special tool' and googled :)
Ebay Item nr: 300287830954

[johnnyrod]

I use the Northy method too, but with a socekt set screwdriver sans socket i.e. 1/4" square end. Cleareance is miserable as ever so getting a C-sanner in isn't always very easy, even the type with a peg at both ends.