Not the usual braided hose thread

[the_lone_wolf]

simple question, it's actually for the DRZ but it's applicable to all hoses - i have my goodridge lines all ready to go, but where you screw in the banjos, would it be wise to use PTFE tape or similar to create a good seal? or should they just be screwed in tight?:confused:

[Dangerous Dave]

Just screw them in tight, never had a problem with either HEL or Goodridge banjos before and I have lost count of how many braided hoses I have fitted to various bikes!

[the_lone_wolf]

cheers, just wanted to make sure

roll on saturday, when i try to bleed them;)

[flymo]

nah, you should not use any tape. You obviously need plenty of copper washers though. You understand that you need a copper washer at each mating surface?

So for the calipers it would be caliper-copper-banjo-copper-bolt, and at the master cylinder depends on the type of bolt you bought and the number of lines.

[the_lone_wolf]

nah, you should not use any tape. You obviously need plenty of copper washers though. You understand that you need a copper washer at each mating surface?

So for the calipers it would be caliper-copper-banjo-copper-bolt, and at the master cylinder depends on the type of bolt you bought and the number of lines.
you can't use the ones you remove from the originals then?

where does one obtain these copper washers? will any the right size do or are there specific brake caliper washers?

also, is it obvious that i've not done this before?...;)

[flymo]

you can't use the ones you remove from the originals then?

where does one obtain these copper washers? will any the right size do or are there specific brake caliper washers?

also, is it obvious that i've not done this before?...;)

You shouldnt really use the old washers but you can if you are desperate. If you buy a new set of HEL or Goodridge lines they are normally supplied in the kit but they cost naf all anyway. You can get them from most bike spares shops or ebay. Pretty much all standard size.

The washers seal the joints by being squashed slightly as you tighten everything up. Older ones have already been squashed once (or more times) before so can be risky to re-use.

Forgot to mention, these washers are intended for motorcycle brake lines, dont go using any old tap washers from B&Q :-)

[the_lone_wolf]

You shouldnt really use the old washers but you can if you are desperate. If you buy a new set of HEL or Goodridge lines they are normally supplied in the kit but they cost naf all anyway. You can get them from most bike spares shops or ebay. Pretty much all standard size.

The washers seal the joints by being squashed slightly as you tighten everything up. Older ones have already been squashed once (or more times) before so can be risky to re-use.
yep, i figured as much, i'll have to get to one of the bike shops on saturday then...

thanks for the warning, anything else a first timer should know?

[flymo]

yep, i figured as much, i'll have to get to one of the bike shops on saturday then...

thanks for the warning, anything else a first timer should know?

well to be honest if you've never done it before then take alot of care, make sure you know what you are doing or get somebody who does to help you.

The front brakes are your best friend and not something you want to bodge.

[the_lone_wolf]

well to be honest if you've never done it before then take alot of care, make sure you know what you are doing or get somebody who does to help you.

The front brakes are your best friend and not something you want to bodge.
hence why i'm taking it to a friend who does know what he's doing, i'll be doing the work but he's going to give advice, it's about as simple as it gets anyway, one line, one calliper. it's not going to be bodged...

[yorkie_chris]

Shouldn't need tape as the threads aren't meant to seal, it's the washers that do it.

I reuse the old washers and keep my eye on them for leakage, I know I shouldn't but haven't had any problems yet

[flymo]

hence why i'm taking it to a friend who does know what he's doing, i'll be doing the work but he's going to give advice, it's about as simple as it gets anyway, one line, one calliper. it's not going to be bodged...

Cool, thats the best approach. It isnt difficult but its obviously critically important that you get it right.

[the_lone_wolf]

well, they're on, they're bled and they're freaking awesome...

whereas before i could pull the lever back to the throttle grip and the rear pedal felt like a large bungee cord, now the front stops about an inch from the grip even when i squeeze so hard it starts to twist the mounting clamp - and the rear brake now comes with feel, the front is fantastic, lots of feel and hardly eny pull required, on the few bits of dry tarmac i saw on the way back the stopping power has definitely improved, i can't wait to try it on a warm dry day on warm tyres

short of re-jetting the carb, which the DRZ is very sensitive to anyway, this has to be the best mod i've made to her in terms of bang to buck

stoppies anyone?;)