View Full Version : Winter corrison
metalmonkey
25-03-08, 12:25 PM
Some of the bolts, fasters and screw on the bike have have furred up over the winter and just look really bad. How can I clean these up please, what do I need to to do it?
How much do they cost to replace? As a last resort this is something that i would do. I not very happy about the fact this happened!
thx, guys.
What do you class as bad furring up?
I have always wondered when people have mentioned this. My bike is ditched at the moment anyway from veing caught out in the snow over the weekend when I took it for its to be looked over before silverstone. I'm not cleaning it until after that.
kwak zzr
25-03-08, 12:40 PM
i take the bolt off the bike and put it in a drill chuck, dip it in autosol and spin it round on a rag (i am abit OTT) this cleans them up but doesnt solve the problem.
how bad is the furring,
I use a dremmel and a polishing kit all round. Works a treat. loads and loads and loads of autosol tooo. It makes things shiney
Prevention is better than cure. A toothbrush with some old engine oil / grease on it over all bolts before the gritters come out. Makes the bike look a bit messy but in winter who cares.
If you're going with Kwak's method of cleaning them up which, by his own admission is OTT, please make sure the drill is NOT gripping hold of the thread. You don't want a shiny bolt with a mangled thread.....
kwak zzr
25-03-08, 01:11 PM
the drill does grip the thread but doesnt seem to harm it as u are only touching a piece of cloth, prob best to clean them up and then do as jambo says and cover them with grease.
northwind
25-03-08, 01:57 PM
Trouble is, once a bolt's corroded it'll do the same again after you clean it, unless you laquer it maybe... I tend to just replace them.
Welsh_Wizard
25-03-08, 02:00 PM
I have noticed a couple of bolts and metal brake line clips 'furring' up (ie: going white) - Is this the same thing??? Or are you talking about proper rust/corrosion where the metal goes all flaky.???
ASM-Forever
25-03-08, 03:19 PM
Surely just get a stainless steel kit and switch them all out is the logical thing to do.
Bluethunder i'm not sure why you are surprised this has happened. The SV is a budget bike with a budget finish and i seem to recall you commute on it.
philbut
25-03-08, 04:53 PM
I have noticed a couple of bolts and metal brake line clips 'furring' up (ie: going white) - Is this the same thing??? Or are you talking about proper rust/corrosion where the metal goes all flaky.???
I think aluminium (or Al alloys) produce the white fur - aluminium oxide. it is actually a natural corrosion protector as it forms a barrier against further corrosion. The orange stuff is iron oxide (so any steel parts) and this will not stop further corrosion as it is porous to moisture and air - thus more important to prevent. The white stuff looks naff but isn't really that bad. Once aluminium has had it's protective layer removed it will naturally produce a layer of oxide, so as someone has said either replace em or laquer them.
Dangerous Dave
25-03-08, 05:32 PM
Trouble is, once a bolt's corroded it'll do the same again after you clean it, unless you laquer it maybe... I tend to just replace them.
This is true, I replaced all the corrosed bolts on the Curvy I bought recently and I use ACF-50 (http://www.acf-50.co.uk/) too!
northwind
25-03-08, 06:24 PM
ACF50 is the business... FS365 is good too but ACF50 lasts, I can't be bothered to reapply protection. The only time my bike really suffered was when I did my leg in, it got put away salty, wet and without a good layer of protection and never moved for 3 months :mad:
-Ralph-
25-03-08, 09:24 PM
Good thread. I have the same issue. Where do you get the stainless bolts and how much? Can somebody post a link?
shifter
25-03-08, 09:56 PM
Haven't tried them myself but defo on the shopping list
http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/sundry_bolts/_derived/sv650_bike_bolts(preK3).htm_cmp_chewycopyoftechthe me010_bnr.gif
http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/
link doesn't seem to work, but if you follow the botom one you'll see "stainless bolys - bike kits" in the list on the left side, follow that
Dangerous Dave
26-03-08, 12:12 PM
Chewys (above) is good, you could also try Probolt (http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm) and Aerotek (http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/index.php?cPath=271) but they may be a little more expensive.
SoulKiss
26-03-08, 12:34 PM
ACF50 is the business... FS365 is good too but ACF50 lasts, I can't be bothered to reapply protection. The only time my bike really suffered was when I did my leg in, it got put away salty, wet and without a good layer of protection and never moved for 3 months :mad:
Just put FS365 on the Zed - well if Scottoiler send you a free litre it would be foolish to buy something else :)
Will just continue to re-apply :)
Surely just get a stainless steel kit and switch them all out is the logical thing to do.
That's what I did - full bike and engine set is ?27 from Chewy. Dead easy to replace everything in the kit, just follow the instructions and get a steel rule to make sure you use the correct bolts in each location.
-Ralph-
26-03-08, 08:56 PM
Haven't tried them myself but defo on the shopping list
http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/sundry_bolts/_derived/sv650_bike_bolts(preK3).htm_cmp_chewycopyoftechthe me010_bnr.gif
http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/
link doesn't seem to work, but if you follow the botom one you'll see "stainless bolys - bike kits" in the list on the left side, follow that
Chewys (above) is good, you could also try Probolt (http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm) and Aerotek (http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/index.php?cPath=271) but they may be a little more expensive.
Ta very much!
northwind
26-03-08, 09:28 PM
I got some big bags of stainless bolts off Ebay, mostly just A2-70 so not particularily strong mind, but then you find the same in a lot of bike specific kits anyway. As ever you pay a huge premium going to bike-specific places. In fact, I probably paid extra for going through ebay but it's easy.
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