Valve Clearances, Alternator Cover woes and a Paint Job [Archive] - SV650.org

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Blue Flame

01-04-08, 12:24 AM

Every 15,000 miles - Or 24 Months
Check the Valve Clearances

Current Mileage approx 19,000 - 48 Months
Eek <Better get it done then>

After querying the price of this job at a professional establishment I picked myself off the floor and decided to do it myself.:rolleyes:

While I was at it the old girl needed an oil change, spark plugs and the coolant/antifreeze had to be replaced (which is a good job really cos you need to remove that radiator to get at the front cylinder valve covers).

All in all this job went fairly well. Got the Haynes Manual out and followed the instructions but not to the letter. (Main difference being the fact that you do not have to remove the fuel tank despite the book telling you too).

My biggest issue with this job was with accessing the alternator rotor bolt. Went pretty much along the lines of ----

Remove the Timing Mark Inspection Cap - CR^P - Don't have that size of Key
Remove the Crankshaft End Cap - CR^P- Don't have that size of Key
<cue Benny Hill music whilst I run to Halfords and back>
Remove the Timing Mark Inspection Cap - Check !!
Remove the Crankshaft End Cap - Check !!
Fit a 17mm Socket to the Alternator Rotor Bolt - Errm No....
.....My 17mm socket is too big to fit through the hole left by removing the end cap.:smt103

It was a good job that I had already removed the oil for the oil change because the only option left was to remove the alternator cover..... which meant I also had to remove the clutch cabling and mechanism !!

Took me some time cos it was the first time I had ventured so far into the bike and there is a lot of removing of bits, & draining of antifreeze and oil to get there but now I know what I am doing (sort of) it should be easier next time.

So.... On to the paint job. This is something that I have been thinking about for some time because the clutch and alternator covers were definately showing a good bit of wear and tear. Got myself some Casing Paint and this is the final result.

...And yes I know it's not the original Colour. I knew that before I sprayed it.:^o

Tiger 55

01-04-08, 06:56 AM

now I know what I am doing (sort of) it should be easier next time.
Because next time you'll have the right 17mm socket? ;)

Casing paint you say? Boy could Project Triumph (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=106111) use some of that. I was going to get it powder coated but that sounds a lot cheaper and less hassle. Is that what it's officially called and where do you get it mate?

kitkat

01-04-08, 07:13 AM

looks good but I have no idea where you painted. but nothing is standing out glaringly obvious so must be good. well done Mr Mechanic

Blue Flame

01-04-08, 08:26 AM

Casing paint you say? Boy could Project Triumph (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=106111) use some of that. I was going to get it powder coated but that sounds a lot cheaper and less hassle. Is that what it's officially called and where do you get it mate?

It's called PJ1 Engine and Case Paint. I got it from M&P (http://www.mandp.co.uk/home.aspx). Seems to leave a good finish which is amazing really because painting is something I have never been good at.
(In fact when I was little my parents were deeply concerned about my phsycological well being because all my paintings were just an indistinguishable black mess.) :D

It reemains to be seen how it copes with the rigours of the elements but time will tell.

timwilky

01-04-08, 08:47 AM

Sounds like you went well overboard. When I checked my SV valve clearance. The only thing I removed was the covers, a quick flick of the ignition button being enough to turn the cams into their correct orientation to slide a feeler gauge under, ie lobe upright.

Blue Flame

01-04-08, 08:53 AM

Hmmmm. I did not think of that.

I am one of those peeps who read instruction manuals before I switch anything on or attempt tasks which is probably why I do the job I do.:D

Did you check the alignment of the R and F marks through the timing mark hole when doing that?

northwind

01-04-08, 12:56 PM

I think you could have done it by putting it in gear and pushing it too ;)

For future reference- the Clarke deep 1/2 inch socket is exactly the right size for the crank hole.

-Ralph-

01-04-08, 01:01 PM

After querying the price of this job at a professional establishment I picked myself off the floor and decided to do it myself.:rolleyes:

Sounds like you went well overboard. When I checked my SV valve clearance. The only thing I removed was the covers, a quick flick of the ignition button being enough to turn the cams into their correct orientation to slide a feeler gauge under, ie lobe upright.

I think you could have done it by putting it in gear and pushing it too ;)

For future reference- the Clarke deep 1/2 inch socket is exactly the right size for the crank hole.

Makes you wonder how much work the profeesional etablishment does for the money doesn't it?

Blue Flame

01-04-08, 01:23 PM

Looks like I have learn't a few lessons then. Thanx.:D

northwind

01-04-08, 05:21 PM

On the bright side you didn't drop anything down inside the engine, like Jambo :smt109

Tiger 55

01-04-08, 05:45 PM

It's called PJ1 Engine and Case Paint. I got it from M&P (http://www.mandp.co.uk/home.aspx).
Sick squid you say? Got to be worth a punt. Thanks mate.

ScottishRawker

01-04-08, 05:45 PM

not sure if my valves have been done

hmm its at about 9000 miles or so and its a 55 plate. should they need done or not?

-Ralph-

01-04-08, 05:50 PM

not sure if my valves have been done

hmm its at about 9000 miles or so and its a 55 plate. should they need done or not?

Mr Suzuki says....

Every 15,000 miles - Or 24 Months
Check the Valve Clearances

Whether you wanna ignore the 24 months bit or not is up to you. But an 06 plate is approaching 24 months old. Don't think anyone looking at your service book at a later date would ask until the bikes done over 15K. If you ask a dealer I expect they'll tel you 15K and ignore the 24 months bit. Folk please correct me if I'm wrong.

Ruffy

01-04-08, 06:32 PM

IMHO, valve clearances are the most overdone maintenance tasks in a schedule. How many times does a check result in having to adjust 'em? BlueFlame, after all you agro, were the clearances OK at 19k?

If you keep decent, fresh oil in your engine and it doesn't live in the red zone, then generally, I don't believe you'll have much of a problem. I don't worry much about valve clearances and, nowadays, I usually check every other time compared with mfr's recommendations.

(No doubt I've just jinxed myself and a major blow-up's on its way!)

Blue Flame

01-04-08, 06:40 PM

IMHO, valve clearances are the most overdone maintenance tasks in a schedule. How many times does a check result in having to adjust 'em? BlueFlame, after all you agro, were the clearances OK at 19k?

Yeah the clearances were fine. It was a 'peace of mind' check for me. Would have been still at it if I had to dig that bit further I think.:D

Ruffy

01-04-08, 06:55 PM

Yeah the clearances were fine. It was a 'peace of mind' check for me. Would have been still at it if I had to dig that bit further I think.:D
Glad to hear everything was OK. Peace of mind is always worth having!

Interesting to note there was no adjustment to do. As you said, you'll race through it next time, and if you keep on top of oil & filter changes, I'd be surprised if there will be any adjustment required then.

Tiger 55

02-04-08, 07:03 AM

Oh it's a kitten! I thought it was something out of Star Wars!
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/tigerboz55/SV650%20Forum/baby-avatar.jpg

Calendar checks are just as important as mileage ones for some service items. If you did 1000 miles a year you wouldn't leave the same oil in there for 4 years or not look at the condition of your fuel hoses for example, but valve clearances can wait until you've covered the distance.

Blue Flame

02-04-08, 07:28 AM

.......Calendar checks are just as important as mileage ones for some service items. If you did 1000 miles a year you wouldn't leave the same oil in there for 4 years or not look at the condition of your fuel hoses for example, but valve clearances can wait until you've covered the distance.

OK. So what's the general consensus about the replace!! commands in the manual.

EG Haynes is telling me to renew my brake hoses and the fuel hoses regardless of the apparent condition as the bike is now 4 years old !! My initial thoughts are that the brake hoses are a must as I really really really do not want them to suddenly go on me despite them apearing to be OK, but as for the fuel hoses and some of the other stuff they bang on about, if it aint broke or worn then why replace it?

admin

02-04-08, 10:44 AM

OK. So what's the general consensus about the replace!! commands in the manual.

EG Haynes is telling me to renew my brake hoses and the fuel hoses regardless of the apparent condition as the bike is now 4 years old !! My initial thoughts are that the brake hoses are a must as I really really really do not want them to suddenly go on me despite them apearing to be OK, but as for the fuel hoses and some of the other stuff they bang on about, if it aint broke or worn then why replace it?

In 30 odd years of riding i've never replaced a fuel hose. Just check them for cracks as rubber does perish.

As for brake lines. I would replace those. The original rubber ones may not show cracks but they do get softer with time resulting in a spongey feel. The effect is gradual and not obvious. A good quality aftermarket hose is well worth the money.

My 2p

Ruffy

02-04-08, 07:32 PM

Oh it's a kitten! I thought it was something out of Star Wars!
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/tigerboz55/SV650%20Forum/baby-avatar.jpg

Nope, it's a dog, believe it or not! For the record, a Lhasa Apso, this one hand reared by my wife after her mother rejected her (the puppy, not the wife). We also reckon they look a bit like Ewoks.

Blue Flame

02-04-08, 07:47 PM

In 30 odd years of riding i've never replaced a fuel hose. Just check them for cracks as rubber does perish.

As for brake lines. I would replace those. The original rubber ones may not show cracks but they do get softer with time resulting in a spongey feel. The effect is gradual and not obvious. A good quality aftermarket hose is well worth the money.

My 2p

Yep that's what I will do. They are not cheap those brake hoses though!! Can get a good deal at my local bike shop for braided hoses with choice of colour and shrink wrap for about £21 a line (regardless of length). Can't remember the manufacturer but they said they were on a par quality wise with the Goodridge lines.

Thanx for all the advice :thumbsup:

Tiger 55

03-04-08, 08:40 AM

Nope, it's a dog, believe it or not!
Thank goodness for that otherwise it'd be one hideous kitten!

kitkat

03-04-08, 02:58 PM

Thank goodness for that otherwise it'd be one hideous kitten!

lol but a cute dog? :smt103 (I think so)

Ruffy

03-04-08, 04:35 PM

lol but a cute dog? :smt103 (I think so)
And I remember you have said so before. You are a kindly soul.

northwind

03-04-08, 10:19 PM

Thank goodness for that otherwise it'd be one hideous kitten!

Ugly kitten perhaps, but it's a very cute gremlin.

SVTONYB

03-04-08, 11:32 PM

Ugly kitten perhaps, but it's a very cute gremlin.

Not a gremlin ...... an Ewok :rolleyes:

northwind

04-04-08, 12:31 AM

Nah, it'd be an ugly ewok, so I thought it'd be kinder to find a species of which it wouldn't be an ugly example.

peterco

04-04-08, 09:53 AM

With you saying about replacing the brake lines,I was looking through Ebay last night and saw these......
http://www.wezmoto.com/assets/images/zinc_kit02.jpg

I am no mechanic,but are these any good.The seller is asking ?40 + postage
ebay link...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Goodridge-Braided-Hoses-Kit-Suzuki-SV650-SV1000_W0QQitemZ160223826617QQihZ006QQcategoryZ105 34QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

pete

timwilky

04-04-08, 10:09 AM

northwind

04-04-08, 06:17 PM

Ruffy

04-04-08, 07:25 PM

Yep, I agree with Tim here, the trouble with zinc coated steel is that as soon as you put a tool to it you risk scratching it, and once you damage the coating the steel rusts. Stainless isn't much more expensive.
I think HEL say something similar on their website to support the fact that they won't use coated steel, only stainless.

admin

05-04-08, 05:16 PM

I think HEL say something similar on their website to support the fact that they won't use coated steel, only stainless.

I used HEL on my 99 SV front and back. I dumped the splitter on the front and had two lines direct from the handlebars to the calipers. Plain s/steel.

You should find some offers on the web, especially if you buy a complete front and back set.

John