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View Full Version : Pointy Top Yoke


650SFTT
17-04-08, 11:09 AM
Hello all, will a pointy naked top yoke fit straight on to a pointy S?

Many thanks

sv650k4
17-04-08, 11:14 AM
as far as i no the answer is no.

think you need 2 change the bottom yoke aswell.


;);)

sv650k4
17-04-08, 11:16 AM
if your looking a top/bottom yoke for a naked see FLYMO of this site he had a set for sale.

650SFTT
17-04-08, 01:09 PM
Is a tripple tree clamp with risers the same as a top yoke? :confused:

flymo
17-04-08, 01:15 PM
yo.


Hello all, will a pointy naked top yoke fit straight on to a pointy S?



No it wont, at least not on a K3 and I dont think its changed since. Its pretty close but not close enough. The forks on the 'S' are about 2mm further forward from the headstock so the top and bottom yokes need to be used as a set.

I dont have my naked set any more sorry, sold them only the other day on here.


Is a tripple tree clamp with risers the same as a top yoke?


I would say yes, worth seeing pictures though to be sure what you are getting.

cyphertheory
21-04-08, 04:48 PM
are you sure? i have a K5 and i got a naked top yoke from a K4. it went on fine and i tightend up all the nuts so im pretty sure its ok?

flymo
21-04-08, 07:24 PM
are you sure? i have a K5 and i got a naked top yoke from a K4. it went on fine and i tightend up all the nuts so im pretty sure its ok?

Strange this one, I'm pretty sure that at least not all can interchange, its seems that some can. Only sure way is to compare part numbers from various models.

The ones I had were physically different spacing between steering stem and forks, not by much (about 2mm) but enough to be a problem. The part numbers int eh catalogue end in 00 and 20 so I assume this refers to the amount of forward offset (0mm and 2mm).

650SFTT
21-04-08, 09:03 PM
Strange this one, I'm pretty sure that at least not all can interchange, its seems that some can. Only sure way is to compare part numbers from various models.

The ones I had were physically different spacing between steering stem and forks, not by much (about 2mm) but enough to be a problem. The part numbers int eh catalogue end in 00 and 20 so I assume this refers to the amount of forward offset (0mm and 2mm).

I have looked at parts numbers, all the nakeds are the same K3-K7 and all the S are the same for K3-K7 :confused:

cyphertheory
21-04-08, 09:14 PM
i dobt know what to tell you lol, i didnt have any problems with alignment

650SFTT
21-04-08, 09:48 PM
i dobt know what to tell you lol, i didnt have any problems with alignment

Hi cyphertheory, why did you change top yoke? I would like to put bars on my S and am looking for most cost effective way of doing it :p

cyphertheory
22-04-08, 11:59 AM
same reason as you i guess, i just wanted a bit more comfort on long trips as i am touring for two weeks this summer. i got my top yoke and risers from svspares.com for ?80 however i did have to keep trying him for a few months before he had them in stock

650SFTT
22-04-08, 05:44 PM
same reason as you i guess, i just wanted a bit more comfort on long trips as i am touring for two weeks this summer. i got my top yoke and risers from svspares.com for ?80 however i did have to keep trying him for a few months before he had them in stock

Did you have to change the stock hoses and what handle bars did you use?

Many thanks.

cyphertheory
22-04-08, 06:39 PM
yeah you will need longer hoses and clutch cable, and also throttle cables if you cant get them to route properly

just used black steel superbike bars from busters

650SFTT
22-04-08, 06:59 PM
Thank you buddy :thumleft:

cyphertheory
22-04-08, 07:52 PM
http://svtwin.blogspot.com/2008/03/from-clip-ons-to-handle-bars.html
just a link to a guy from the states who did the same thing incase you need some more info

650SFTT
22-04-08, 08:25 PM
http://svtwin.blogspot.com/2008/03/from-clip-ons-to-handle-bars.html
just a link to a guy from the states who did the same thing incase you need some more info

Just looked at review, it appears that if you have to replace cables buying a full kit from the likes of ABM for ?300 works out at the same cost, there goes my cost effective way of doing it! :confused:

flymo
22-04-08, 09:02 PM
might be interested in buying some of the switchgear from you if you plan to convert. Possibly the right hand throttle and cables, right hand switch gear and front brake master cylinder. Let me know if you decide to.

cyphertheory
22-04-08, 09:08 PM
i see you posted on paulsv650s' post on how he did his conversion. thats pretty much the method i went with i am pretty sure you can get away without the extra cables if you route them properly, but sometimes it better to be safe then sorry. however having said that i think that pushbike shops can make the steel cables you need longer for the throttle and cluch cables and solder on new ends? dont hold me to that but it might be worth asking?

650SFTT
22-04-08, 09:11 PM
might be interested in buying some of the switchgear from you if you plan to convert. Possibly the right hand throttle and cables, right hand switch gear and front brake master cylinder. Let me know if you decide to.

The ABM kit comes with a new top yoke, risers and longer cables, I think you re-use the rest of it.

650SFTT
22-04-08, 09:15 PM
yeah you will need longer hoses and clutch cable, and also throttle cables if you cant get them to route properly

just used black steel superbike bars from busters

Did you have to change cables when you did it using superbike bars?

cyphertheory
22-04-08, 10:22 PM
not actually got it all done, i needed the longer brake lines, and then someone did a U turn on me so its with the insurance company. but yeah i got the clutch and the throttle on ok and could move the bars the full range of movement but not actually had it on the road

plus here is a link to someone who did it on the cheap, cant vouch for how good the job is tho just for info

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18709

650SFTT
23-04-08, 08:53 AM
not actually got it all done, i needed the longer brake lines, and then someone did a U turn on me so its with the insurance company. but yeah i got the clutch and the throttle on ok and could move the bars the full range of movement but not actually had it on the road

plus here is a link to someone who did it on the cheap, cant vouch for how good the job is tho just for info

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18709

Bad luck about accident, hope your ok! When fixed are you going to use stock naked brake hoses?