Chain Adjustment

[plowsie]

Right guys, bike is in a few bits this week and noticed how very slack my chain is, the lowers are off and the Centre stand is fouling the chain, not sure if I tighten it whether it will stop this but the chain needs sorting. I have read a few posts/threads and just need a few pointers really(:smt120 :smt077).

1) Don't have the correct size torque wrench (but yes I have got one :)) to do the rear spindle, can it be done without?
2) What needs adjusting and unsrewing and how?

Pretty much, can someone do me a walkthrough please if they have time? Or better so if someone fancies a trip up to Northampton tonight, I can provide coffee and biscuits and I'll even get you the takeaway of your choice... Haynes is out of the question as I have left it at my Nan's :smt013

[jambo]

Is this for the CBR?

Either way, the best bet is to use a Rear paddock stand as this keeps the swing arm loaded by the weight of the bike, and lets the wheel turn to check tension. Failing that spin the rear wheel or move the bike around until you find the tightest point. Centre stand will give you a reading that will be fractionally looser than it will be when the bike's on it's side stand, so you can over tighten if not careful.

Slacken off the rear wheel spindle, you have an adjuster on each side of the swing arm, move both adjusters back by the same amount (use 1/4 turn at a time or something till you get a feel for it). When you're happy with the chain tension, do the rear axle up again.

ALWAYS check the whole chain carefully for tension when you're done, my ZX6 takes up some slack in the chain when you do the rear wheel nut up properly as the swing arm flexes slightly, you may also have missed a tight spot. Turning it into a bowstring at one point is something you want to avoid.


HTH

Jambo

[plowsie]

Is this for the CBR?
Yeah :)
Either way, the best bet is to use a Rear paddock stand as this keeps the swing arm loaded by the weight of the bike, and lets the wheel turn to check tension. Failing that spin the rear wheel or move the bike around until you find the tightest point. Centre stand will give you a reading that will be fractionally looser than it will be when the bike's on it's side stand, so you can over tighten if not careful.
Sold me paddock stand as hand centre stand, so how do I tell from there the tightest point?
Slacken off the rear wheel spindle, you have an adjuster on each side of the swing arm, move both adjusters back by the same amount (use 1/4 turn at a time or something till you get a feel for it). When you're happy with the chain tension, do the rear axle up again.
Can I not do the axle up too much?
ALWAYS check the whole chain carefully for tension when you're done, my ZX6 takes up some slack in the chain when you do the rear wheel nut up properly as the swing arm flexes slightly, you may also have missed a tight spot. Turning it into a bowstring at one point is something you want to avoid.


HTH

Jambo
Cheers Jambo, sorry if I am a pain with all the questions but a little worried of getting it wrong and causing more hassle for meself.

[Mr_Chin]

Plowsie

When you've done the chain adjustment here's what I do:

I use a very simple way to check the slackness of my chain once I've adjusted it. Point your fingers, and put your left and right index fingers together. Put them underneath the bottom of your chain (lower rung), so that they are just making contact with the chain. Now lift your right index finger. If there's a gap of about 1" inch between your two fingers then your chain should be fine.

Not very technical, exact or precise, but hey, it works for me.

Mr Chin

[jambo]

Yeah :)

Sold me paddock stand as hand centre stand, so how do I tell from there the tightest point?
The tightest point will be in the same place on the centre stand as it would with the paddock stand, wiggle the chain at the point between both sprockets and measure the slack from where you can push it up with one finger, to where you can push it down to with one finger, repeat for points along the chain by turning back wheel.

The measurements you get will, however, be slightly slacker than they would be on the side stand, measure at one point, drop onto the side stand and measure again to check.

Can I not do the axle up too much? Yes, if you're a gorrilla. They're done up pretty tight, lean hard on a normal 1/2" drive ratchet and you'll probably still not make it up to the right torque, but it'll be fine I'm sure.

Cheers Jambo, sorry if I am a pain with all the questions but a little worried of getting it wrong and causing more hassle for meself.

No worries, better to check a few times than charge in and screw it up!

[plowsie]

I seem to remember seeing somewhere that an inch of play on the centrestand/paddock stand is about right, is that right?

[jambo]

Depends on the bike, an inch is ~25mm, My ZX6R needs between 35-40mm of slack. Find out the correct amount of slack for your bike and adjust to that.

an inch on the centre stand is likley to be ~20mm on the sidestand, this is almost certainly too tight

[Mr_Chin]

On the side stand the slack should be between 20-30mm (0.8 - 1.2" inches)

Rear Axle nut torque should be: 100 N-m (10kgf-m, 725lb-ft)

Chin

[plowsie]

Nice one, thanks for all your help guys, really appreciate it :)

[injury_ian]

On the side stand the slack should be between 20-30mm (0.8 - 1.2" inches)

Rear Axle nut torque should be: 100 N-m (10kgf-m, 725lb-ft)

Chin


Yeah a Suzuki ****-up 100Nm = 72.5Lb-ft

Unless you have a 5 foot torque wrench i'd not try 725Lb-ft

[muffles]

I don't use a torque wrench for doing it up (although I have the right size). I just use a breaker bar and measure from how much I undid it to make it loose enough - e.g. 8 "turns" of the breaker bar (they aren't 360 degrees obviously, as the breaker bar touches the ground).

[Mr_Chin]

Yeah a Suzuki ****-up 100Nm = 72.5Lb-ft

Unless you have a 5 foot torque wrench i'd not try 725Lb-ft

Welll spottid injury_ian, guld starr fore noticing the typo. I,ll proof-reed all my posts from know on!

(Just for you)

Keep up the good work.

Chin

[leatherpatches]

Yes, if you're a gorrilla. They're done up pretty tight, lean hard on a normal 1/2" drive ratchet and you'll probably still not make it up to the right torque, but it'll be fine I'm sure.

I laughed :smile:

[plowsie]

Well there we go, all done. I got very ragged off at one stage as i could not understand why the wheel was not moving back, turns out i was loosening the nut lol. Had the rear spindle completely undone so have done me best to get it back inline. The count how many turns etc strategy went out the window also but i think i have go it righr. ie will tell i spose. Felt very tight and my dad was like no Stu that is way too tight, I was like no Dad it was just way too loose before :lol:

[jambo]

You may want to check the wheel alignment then, if it's out, the bike will have a preference for left / right handers and your tyre wear will be less even.

When you say it looks tight, as discussed earlier as long as there's the right amount of free play at all points when it's on the side stand after everything's done up you're good!


Well done mate!

Jambo