Fairing spray paint

[Zombie Jesus]

Anyone have any experience in doing this? as in what stuff to use, aswell as if any preparation and laquer is required/advised ...

I've got a spare set of broken track fairings so finish is not that important but I don't want it rubbing off or anything because sometimes I have to take soft luggage to the tracks. Plus I'll probably put decal/sponsor stickers all over at some point.

[suzsv650]

my bro is doing spraying at college atm

he did a good job on his RS but the laquer he used wasnt that good and if petrol touched it it would kind of melt away a bit!

[Pete_58]

Few coats of primer, wet flat it between coats, then colour paint, same as primer, wet flat, then laquer. I primed my parts, then rubbed down with 600 first, using 1200 after and between paint aswell. Its all in the preperation!! And have patience.

I used primer and laquer from halfords, and got my local paint suppliers to mix up paint for me into areosols. Gave them the paint code so as to get a good colour match.

Hope that helps.

[squirrel_hunter]

Tried doing a rattle can job some years back, not too great.

From what I've read 2 Pac (no not the wrapper) is best but a little hazardus. For a consistant finish I'd go for a non can spray provided from an air compressor. I've seen conpressors for around £70 plus but don't really know what type to go for.

This is something I want to do on my old bike eventually so have looked into this a little before. I did manage to find a good guide to it but now I've lost it so hopefully someone will have a link to something...

[northwind]

It really does depend how you want it to last, the only clearcoat that really lasts and survives use is 2-pack, which is troublesome to spray DIY because it's poison. Cellulose- what Halfords sell- is just ****, I've used it on a front panel and wasps leave impact damage :mrgreen: even with 4 coats. It dulls in the sun too, and petrol melts it like a blowtorch. Singlepack laquer's what I used on the bike, and it's better than cellulose but still not very good, it's too easily scratched and though it doesn't melt instantly with paint it does dull/discolour. Not ideal.

Basically, if I was bodging a job I might use celly but I'd sooner use singlepack, if I want it to look good and last I'd only ever use 2-pack, having lived with singlepack and celly they're not good enough.

[Zombie Jesus]

OK thanks for the info, presumably I'm not going to need primer if I just wanted black on white fairing parts?

Not counting the parts I broke at silverstone, I got a full set of used/slightly damaged fairings for ~£120 so obviously not much point in attempting anything too ambitious since it's likely to go down again sooner or later.

[timwilky]

I tend to use 2K paints, finish is far superior to what I used to get spraying cellulose in the 70s, and a lot harder. however they do contain isocyanate's. Exposure to which can have very nasty effects including a one way trip. Cartridge respirators are not enough. I use an air fed mask. Also it can be absorbed through the skin. so disposable overalls are a must as well.

The only problem I have, is I paint like I plaster. Occasionally which means my quality is nowhere near that of a professional.

Preparation is key. Give it a good flatting, remember for fairings you need a plastic primer to key properly yet flex. Scuff the surface using scotch brite pads and give it a good degrease/wash before painting. a couple of coats, 10 mins between coats. and then topcoat.

[northwind]

OK thanks for the info, presumably I'm not going to need primer if I just wanted black on white fairing parts?


You should still primer it, the primer sticks better and gives the actual paint a better surface to stick to. I reckon one of the easiest ways to get a half-decent result is to ONLY do primer- get a black and a white primer, any old rubbish will do, it goes on easily and you can sand it back without problems, plus you don't have to clear it. It's really not tough and it'll melt with petrol but then again it's easily fixed, because it's primer. Looks pretty nice, fingerprints like a b*****d though unless you get it pretty smooth. There's a guy on SV Rider with a black and white race bike in primer, with gold highlights... Absolutely lovely.

[DarrenSV650S]

Few coats of primer, wet flat it between coats, then colour paint, same as primer, wet flat, then laquer. I primed my parts, then rubbed down with 600 first, using 1200 after and between paint aswell. Its all in the preperation!! And have patience.

I used primer and laquer from halfords, and got my local paint suppliers to mix up paint for me into areosols. Gave them the paint code so as to get a good colour match.

Hope that helps.
I was with you up until "wet flat":scratch:

[northwind]

Just means "sand it back a bit using water and wet and dry".

[ricky]

I tend to use 2K paints, finish is far superior to what I used to get spraying cellulose in the 70s, and a lot harder. however they do contain isocyanate's. Exposure to which can have very nasty effects including a one way trip. Cartridge respirators are not enough. I use an air fed mask. Also it can be absorbed through the skin. so disposable overalls are a must as well.

The only problem I have, is I paint like I plaster. Occasionally which means my quality is nowhere near that of a professional.

Preparation is key. Give it a good flatting, remember for fairings you need a plastic primer to key properly yet flex. Scuff the surface using scotch brite pads and give it a good degrease/wash before painting. a couple of coats, 10 mins between coats. and then topcoat.

what ever you do use atleast a mask, i nearly killed myslef not knowing this and thanks to the paint shop not telling me

always wondered if 1k paints are the same as i have a full bike to paint up lol

[Pete_58]

I was with you up until "wet flat":scratch:

sorry, as someone said, just wet your paper. stops it clogging up and you get a smoother finish.

[timwilky]

what ever you do use atleast a mask, i nearly killed myslef not knowing this and thanks to the paint shop not telling me

always wondered if 1k paints are the same as i have a full bike to paint up lol

As I said, I use an air fed mask. My understanding is that 1K also contain isocyanate's. I know you can get non iso paints, however those I know in the trade tell me to treat these with the same caution.

I am surprised your paint shop if they did not know you did not provide you with the hazard sheets for the paint they sold you.

[carsounds_dan]

yeh when I painted my zxr a local company called c&c car colours supplied me with an aerosol of 2k paint, I had to keep it refridgerated and use it within two days but it went on really well, sanded back flat and with-held petrol, oil, cleaning, cow ****... you name it.
I then re-sprayed my spare set of panels using a proper setup and 2k paint and it was alright but getting the laquer to the right consistancy was a right biatch.. I setup a little tent up within the garage... one of those cheap things from the market... this was my spray booth and used the doorway to strip off. All paint was kept in the fridge in the garage and used a small 24l compressor for it... it held up alright but then they were only small panels. From what my friends in the trade tell me the new paint they have to use with their high velocity low pressure (HVLP) systems is mainly waterbased and covers really badly meaning that it takes them 3 or 4 times longer than before to get the right match.
I might re-paint the sv at soem point... but atm there are more important things to sort out with it.
cheers
dan

[ricky]

As I said, I use an air fed mask. My understanding is that 1K also contain isocyanate's. I know you can get non iso paints, however those I know in the trade tell me to treat these with the same caution.

I am surprised your paint shop if they did not know you did not provide you with the hazard sheets for the paint they sold you.


na they never give it out lol. im on the look out for a air fed mask, but the cost is high and works out cheaper just to get them sprayed at a shop

[northwind]

Yup, plus you need a proper compressor to run one + a gun... And when I say "proper" that includes "won't poison you" as well as "can run gun + mask" :D Plus the compressor has to be outside of the spraying booth. Basically it's a pain in the balls.

The hazard sheets for the 1k clear and basecoat I used both specced cartridge filters. I still wouldn't spray with it again though, unless it was a temporary job.

[squirrel_hunter]

Ok to do it properly one would need a compressor and resperator...

How about some links to prospective products? I would like to know exactly what peps who do this use.