Wurth dry chain lube.. what?

[Draper]

So goes to spray on said product, but it is very wierd

is it supposed to knock the cack off that was on the chain, and also not seem to have lubricated the chain at all? Its called dry chain lube, but i'm used to green sticky stuff so its all abit new to me

has it gone on correctly and how do you know when to top up? just on mileage?

Drapes

[pencil shavings]

I seem to remember a thread saying dry lube isnt that good, all the road gunk just sticks to it. But im not sure of aplication.

[Draper]

hmmm i heard it was the other way around... why i bought the stuff! [-o<

[leatherpatches]

I tried it for a whole can's worth. Really didn't get on with it. Chain was bone dry within 50 miles of application each time. Didn't inspire confidence at all so I'm back to non-fling wax.

[Draper]

damn, wheres all the people that were endorsing it?? hope i havent wasted my money!

[the_lone_wolf]

use it on my DRZ, personally not had problems with it but i followed the instructions

1. Clean chain, i use Wurth Brake / Chain cleaner, get t as clean and dry as you can

2. Go for a ride, 20mins, get the chain nice and warm

3. When you get back, quickly wipe the chain over to get the remaining, now less solid, crap off

4. While the chain is warm apply the lube along the length from both sides

As i said, never had a problem, doesn't seem to pick up dirt or crap and certainly doesn't spit lube all over the wheel like the scottoiler on my SV:)

[sv-robo]

Use this stuff myself around every 3/400 miles(others may do so more often)seems right enough.

[Biker_Billy]

I use it too, and do find that you have to shake the can for a few mins to allow all the ingredients to loosen up inside the can

[STRAMASHER]

Use the wurth stuff for gold chains in summer. Chain cleaned weekly.

I'm going to back to Kalgard tacky oily nastiness for winter.

Plus my SV no longer has a goldie. (The shame):)

[New Leaf]

Wurth Dry Chain Lube is Ace. I don't let anything else touch my chain (apart from profi dry chain lube which is similar but better).

Its meant to feel dry - thats the whole point. :rolleyes: It will dry within 2 mins of application leaving an ultra low friction coating all over the chain. There is no gooey crap to fling off all over your bike, or to attract dirt or grit.

If you spray it onto a dirty chain, you will find that it will shift alot of the crap off it, but you're best off giving it a good clean first with parafin and a cloth or toothbrush. To get the best from dry lubes, u need to get rid of all remnents of your old nasty sticky goo before the first application of dry lube. Once the chain is clean and regularly coated with wurth or profi dry chain lube it just won;t get dirty again as no crap can stick to it.

Re-apply every few hundred miles and immeadiately after riding in the rain or washing the bike. The chain will rust very quickly if you don't re-apply when the chain gets wet.

I apply it every 300 miles, and after the bikes monthly wash. I usually clean the chain with parafin once a month too, but it doesn't really seem to need it now that i use dry lube.

[Stegsie]

I used the Profi Dry Lube and can't fault it. Clean all the old stuff off with a decen chain cleaner, then apply the Profi Dry.

[injury_ian]

I still have 1/2 a can of Wurth, bought it after reading rave reviews.

I wasn't impressed didn't seem to last at all long, in fact after an evening ride i was horrified to see the chain all polished and dry.

Muck off atm, I like, you can see it and is 100% no fling and will last 2 tanks worth! (250-300 miles)

[the_lone_wolf]

...after an evening ride i was horrified to see the chain all polished and dry....

The giveaway is in the name: "Dry chain lube"

[injury_ian]

:smt075

dry as in not waxy, not oily, pretty much dry metal on dry metal, hot and polished.

[mister c]

I tried it for a whole can's worth. Really didn't get on with it. Chain was bone dry within 50 miles of application each time. Didn't inspire confidence at all so I'm back to non-fling wax.
+1

[the_lone_wolf]

dry as in not waxy, not oily, pretty much dry metal on dry metal, hot and polished.
i assume you experienced massive chain and sprocket wear as the lubrication properties had completely vanished?

odd that my chain looks exactly the same and yet on a bike with no cush drive, that generally gets ridden like it was stolen with the front wheel in the air more often than not the chain and sprockets go hundreds of miles between minor adjustment and re-lubricaion

just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's not working

but if you need a visible indicator that something is on your chain use old engine oil, every time you clean the smearing off your wheel you'll feel safe in the knowledge that something is on there

:smt075

[evertheoptimist]

yes the idea of a wax or dry lube is to actually fall off the chain taking any dirt/grit with it therefore leaving the chain nice and clean, but obviously creating the need for more lube to be applied. The more you use the bike/wash the bike the more you need to reapply. And also its an invisible/dry lube so it looks like the chain isn't lubed when in fact it is, if you have maintained. This is in fact great for bikes/chains that maintain a very high standard of appearance, but if your not that bothered about the chain looking brand new and shiny you may as well just use a good old fashioned wet oil which you can easily see if its there or not. IMO.

[New Leaf]

GRRR, why are u guys buying a dry lube and then complaining that your chain is dry. Thats the whole point!! It looks and feels dry, stays clean and still protects your chain. Its brilliant stuff, just trust that its working. And remember to re apply if it rains.

[DanAbnormal]

Used it for a few years now. I get around 12 - 13'000 miles out of a chain as well. So yes, it does work.

[pencil shavings]

I apply it every 300 miles, and after the bikes monthly wash. I usually clean the chain with parafin once a month too, but it doesn't really seem to need it now that i use dry lube.

Once a month!! :smt103

[sv-robo]

Once a month!! :smt103
+1:shock:

[Griffo]

I think i'll add this to my list of things to get when the bike arrives :)

[New Leaf]

Once a month!! :smt103

Yeah, i wash the bike onec a month - whats wrong with that? :confused:

[pencil shavings]

Yeah, i wash the bike onec a month - whats wrong with that? :confused:

you wont have much of a bike left after the winters had its fun only cleaning once a month.

after every other ride for me ;)

[Dave The Rave]

Best thing ever since sliced bread. Leaves the chain nice and clean yet lubes it well. Yes you cannot see it (that's the point) but reapply every 250-300miles and it will pay off. Minimal chain and sprocket wear and nice and shiny chain. Minimal adjustments needed too. IMO it does not nead reaplying after wet ride as it is water proof but I suppose you cannot do any damage by doing so.

[New Leaf]

you wont have much of a bike left after the winters had its fun only cleaning once a month.

after every other ride for me ;)


Haha, i used to wash it after every ride in the winter too, but its soul destroying to see it filthy again after a single ride.

Now i just cover it in acf-50 from November to April, and only wash it when so minging i'm to ashamed to ride it.

[leatherpatches]

GRRR, why are u guys buying a dry lube and then complaining that your chain is dry. Thats the whole point!! It looks and feels dry, stays clean and still protects your chain. Its brilliant stuff, just trust that its working. And remember to re apply if it rains.

I think it's a confidence thing. It's hard to believe in something that you can't see (unless you're religious!). Also I found that my chain was heating up a lot more. It was nice and clean but really hot after a ride when compared to when I used oil/wax. Also, after 50 miles or so it's possible to feel the chain and it really is bone dry. The idea of a lubricant is that it eases the friction between surfaces. I could feel mega friction between my finger and the chain after only a few miles; this would probably explain the heat.

I think it's more like a cleaner than a good chain lubricant. That's why I changed. Also, I ride a lot in wet weather and I really don't need to be applying chain lube after every single ride.

[pencil shavings]

Haha, i used to wash it after every ride in the winter too, but its soul destroying to see it filthy again after a single ride.

Now i just cover it in acf-50 from November to April, and only wash it when so minging i'm to ashamed to ride it.

I solved that problem by selling my soul for cleaning products, the perfect solution ;):cool:

[the_lone_wolf]

I think it's more like a cleaner than a good chain lubricant. That's why I changed.

what?:???:

the chain gets hot because it gets worked, nothing to do with lack of lubrication, the chain on my SV gets just as hot and that is always covered in scottoiler lube

the difference between wurth cleaner and lubricant is blindingly obvious, if you really can't see it try using brake cleaner instead of chain lube for a few hundred miles and see how long the chain lasts:rolleyes:

[Dave The Rave]

what?:???:

the chain gets hot because it gets worked, nothing to do with lack of lubrication, the chain on my SV gets just as hot and that is always covered in scottoiler lube

the difference between wurth cleaner and lubricant is blindingly obvious, if you really can't see it try using brake cleaner instead of chain lube for a few hundred miles and see how long the chain lasts:rolleyes:

Even quicker way of finding the difference is use your chain lube instead of a break cleaner. First corner should make the difference quite obvious. ;)

[the_lone_wolf]

Even quicker way of finding the difference is use your chain lube instead of a break cleaner. First corner should make the difference quite obvious. ;)
:smt043

[leatherpatches]

what?:???:

the chain gets hot because it gets worked, nothing to do with lack of lubrication, the chain on my SV gets just as hot and that is always covered in scottoiler lube

the difference between wurth cleaner and lubricant is blindingly obvious, if you really can't see it try using brake cleaner instead of chain lube for a few hundred miles and see how long the chain lasts:rolleyes:

1) I made a comparison between the relative heats achieved. The chain gets hot because of friction, which has everything to do with lubrication, as my post made pains to point out.

2) I know the difference between cleaner and lubricant. My observation was that the Wurth oil reminded me more of a cleaner than a lubricant. This is an observation I stand by.

3) I'm not quite sure why you are so defensive of Wurth Chain Lube, but I reckon I'm still entitled to make an observation based on my own experience. Thanks.

[the_lone_wolf]

3) I'm not quite sure why you are so defensive of Wurth Chain Lube, but I reckon I'm still entitled to make an observation based on my own experience.
defensive?

when someone says something as stupid as "it's more of a chain cleaner than a lubricant" that just invites a response don't you think?

regardless, of course, tell everyone what you think, i'd never tell you not to, just don't expect not to get called if you say something daft:rolleyes:

[leatherpatches]

defensive?

when someone says something as stupid as "it's more of a chain cleaner than a lubricant" that just invites a response don't you think?

regardless, of course, tell everyone what you think, i'd never tell you not to, just don't expect not to get called if you say something daft:rolleyes:

What, something as stupid as,

"the chain gets hot because it gets worked, nothing to do with lack of lubrication"

My comment clearly meant it was reminiscent to me of a cleaner, rather than a lubricant. Anyone with half a brain can see that I'm not proposing that it actually is just a cleaner (although I believe that it is sold as having cleaning properties).

[the_lone_wolf]

What, something as stupid as,
can you read? perhaps if i were writing that post for three year-olds i should have said: "a correctly lubricated chain will still get hot if you ride the bike"

so what exactly is it about lubricant that you think makes it "reminiscent ... of a cleaner" ? the fact that the chain stays clean as well as being lubricated?:rolleyes:

just because you are, apparently, incapable of using it doesn't mean that it doesn't work:smt044:smt044:smt044 - as the many replies from people who can use it seem to indicate

i'll let you get on now, but hell, feel free to continue after i've gone, you're absolutely right, wurth dry chain lube is crap, absolutely useless, while you're at it you should probably email the guys are ride, idiots have gone and given it their "best buy" rating:rolleyes:



:rolleyes:




:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:




:smt044:smt044:smt044:smt044:smt044:smt044

[injury_ian]

I stand by my original comment, I think its naff, and not as lubricative as some other lubes out there, and as i do 10k+ a year, that is what is important to me. I'd like a clean rear wheel, but i don't think the technology is out there yet.

Its a good thing we all make different choices or we'd all be riding the same bike, how boring would that be.... :-$

[leatherpatches]

I stand by my original comment, I think its naff, and not as lubricative as some other lubes out there, and as i do 10k+ a year, that is what is important to me. I'd like a clean rear wheel, but i don't think the technology is out there yet.

Its a good thing we all make different choices or we'd all be riding the same bike, how boring would that be.... :-$

That's interesting as I also cover similar miles. Perhaps it's more suited to lower mileage riders who like to see a sparkling chain.

[carty]

I've been using Profi dry lube since I started out, I think it's wicked.

[DanAbnormal]

as i do 10k+ a year, that is what is important to me. I'd like a clean rear wheel, but i don't think the technology is out there yet.


It seems to be a question of faith then. I ride the bike most days and cover 15- 20k a year and through winter. I've used Wurth dry lube for a couple of years and my chains last well over 12k miles. It works. Plain and simple. If you don't believe it works then that is a seperate issue. ;)

[Stu]

my chains last well over 12k miles. It works. Plain and simple. If you don't believe it works then that is a seperate issue. ;)
Isn't double that the norm for scottoilers?
Sompletely different I know - A shiny back end to a (potentially) crudy one. The choice is yours! :D

[Dave The Rave]

It seems to be a question of faith then. I ride the bike most days and cover 15- 20k a year and through winter. I've used Wurth dry lube for a couple of years and my chains last well over 12k miles. It works. Plain and simple. If you don't believe it works then that is a seperate issue. ;)

Same here. 15k plus annually in all weather. No problem. Would never consider anything else unless I buy an old CB500 for winter in which case I will use anything as far as it is cheap :-)

[jumjum_0214]

I have just bought some of this stuff. I applied it after a ride the other day and havent ridden the bike since.

All I know so far is that it smells nice :-)

I will update when I have tested it properly.

[Corf]

some passionate wurth fans here. it almost broke into a 'your mother is so...' thread.

i prefer seeing the stuff on to be honest as pretty forgetful with some maintanence issues but after reading the strong views here i may give it a go as am almost out of whatever brand lube i have at mo.

[leatherpatches]

If you do then you must bear in mind that it costs about ?8 per can, rather than ?5 of the castrol wax stuff (similar quantities). Fine again if you're not putting on the miles.

[leatherpatches]

RIGHT! In the name of fairness I've bought some Profi Dry Lube and I'm going to clean the chain and use it, then come back and write up a rounded report on how I found it after a thousand miles or so...

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk181/leatherpatches/profi.jpg

[New Leaf]

once you've cleaned the chain, you might want to give that arai lid a quick wipe over too - its mingin';):D:p:D

[the_lone_wolf]

If you do then you must bear in mind that it costs about ?8 per can, rather than ?5 of the castrol wax stuff (similar quantities). Fine again if you're not putting on the miles.
three pounds additional cost over how many miles? beware you don't have to re-mortgage the house to afford it:smt044

[jumjum_0214]

three pounds additional cost over how many miles? beware you don't have to re-mortgage the house to afford it:smt044

If the petrol prices keep rising we will :scratch:

[the_lone_wolf]

If the petrol prices keep rising we will :scratch:
quite possibly, but you're not going to be saving vast quantities buying cheap chain lube;)

[lukemillar]

The Wurth stuff is ok. I used it for a couple of years, though can't get it in Australia. I find people to tend to harp on about how great it is... Ride gave it it this super rating... blah - It's just chain lube!

End of the day it doesn't really matter if you stick used engine oil on your chain - important bit is to clean the cr@p off, adjust it correctly and lube it regularly.

[leatherpatches]

once you've cleaned the chain, you might want to give that arai lid a quick wipe over too - its mingin';):D:p:D

LOL it is actually, although how you can tell that from the photo I don't know.

[Lozzo]

odd that my chain looks exactly the same and yet on a bike with no cush drive, that generally gets ridden like it was stolen with the front wheel in the air more often than not the chain and sprockets go hundreds of miles between minor adjustment and re-lubricaion



That is odd, my SV and all my other bikes recently owned have gone up to 5000 miles without chain adjustment (adjusted when the rear tyre gets changed) and I don't have to get on my hands and knees every few hundred miles to lube them either - but I have a Scottoiler on every bike I own, so it's to be expected. People here who've seen me ride will tell you I don't hang about either. Chains and sprockets typically last between 25,000 and 30,000 miles on my bikes.

Stop dicking about with stupid archaic cans of squirty lube and get a Scottoiler fitted.

[Lozzo]

Isn't double that the norm for scottoilers?

12K is about half what I get from a chain and sprox with a Scottoiler fitted.


Sompletely different I know - A shiny back end to a (potentially) crudy one. The choice is yours! :D

Fit and set up a Scottoiler properly and the back end doesn't get covered in oily crud - it's a myth propogated by those who are too ham-fisted to do a proper job.

[leatherpatches]

I don't want to fit a Scottoiler to my current bike because a) to me it looks crap and b) no matter how I've tinkered with them in the past they have flung oil all over the lower half of the bike. And yes, I'm fairly ham-fisted :grin:

[the_lone_wolf]

Stop dicking about with stupid archaic cans of squirty lube and get a Scottoiler fitted.
to a supermoto? you're avvin a larf mate. my SV has a scottoiler and it goes about 1500m between adjustments

with no cush drive and a requirement for a slack chain compared to the SV and other road bikes, plus the fact that to get anywhere you need to be going 110% on the DRZ, i'm surprised the chain doesn't need more maintaining. the rear tyre on there is about 2500m old and will need replacing soon. required maintenance is proportional to the amount of stick the bike gets.:cool: