taking the engine apart - any special tools required?

[charlie13]

Time has come to start pulling my engine to pieces to investigate the bag of spanners noises coming from the bottom end. Reading thro the workshop manual it lists special tools for holding the clutch and generator to remove the various fasteners.

I'm just wondering if anyone can offer any tips on how this can be done without the special tools, or if there is definitely a tool I will need to take the engine apart. Sure i'll figure things out as I come to them, but forewarned is forearmed and it'll maybe help to save a bit of time if I know what to expect. Read thro several posts but not seen any mention of tools so far.

Would really like to get it sorted for the glencoe rideout, but not holding my breath right now. Am feeling very low that my beloved suz is poorly :(

[northwind]

You need a rotor puller to remove the generator rotor... You can get by without the retaining tool though. I've never used any tools other than normal hand tools to remove the clutch, but then I've always done it in the frame so I could just lock the back wheel and use that to imobilise the engine.

[charlie13]

cheers northwind! i was planning on pulling off as much as poss from the left and right hand sides of the engine while it is parked up like you suggest, and then dropping it out. glad to hear not much in the way of tools required, a quick trip to halfords should see me with a rotor puller and ready for a full strip ;-)

[northwind]

I don't think Halfords do a suitable puller. I've got one but I need to lend it to Hooligan, I've been supposed to do that for a month in fact :rolleyes: But you'd be welcome to a loan if you don't mind waiting.

Oh, watch out for the Dreaded Left Hand Threaded Bolt that holds one of the sprockets on! Can't remember which one. And own some circlip pliars.

[yorkie_chris]

The rotor puller is an M20 fine pitch bolt, a 3 legged puller won't work.

[LEXINGTONONE]

Any ideas where to get M20 fine pitch bolt ? I know it,s practically impossible to get rotor off without proper tool so I would like to get bolt for any future use,
Cheers

[Dan]

IOh, watch out for the Dreaded Left Hand Threaded Bolt that holds one of the sprockets on! Can't remember which one. And own some circlip pliars.

Yep. Do not make the mistake I did when assisting Richie with his engine-strip, and read only as far as 'Undo the bolt'

Missing the next bit, which says 'be careful, it's a left hand thread' can be awkward.

See here (http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=1267873&postcount=23)

This'll be a trip down memory lane for the old hands who remember what I call 'the incident'

[charlie13]

Cheers for all the advice guys, and i'm sure I'll be able to source an M20 fine from somewhere. There's quite a few decent engineering places round these parts. Now just wish I had the freedom to cry off from work and spend my days tinkering and fixing!

[yorkie_chris]

What's actually up with the engine then?

[charlie13]

What's up with it......well not actually sure, apart from the fact it seemed to idle fine for about 30 seconds when I struck it up after trying some other coils. Then it started to stutter and sound very clanky and stopped. Will turn over on the starter but doesn't seem keen to fire. While i remember to ask, does the genny on the sv run in oil?

[yorkie_chris]

Ripping the alternator off probably isn't the first thing I'd do.

It'll sound pretty clanky if it's idling too low due to another problem, like electrics or carburetion.

[charlie13]

yep I guess your right YC, I got in a bit of a panic when it first went and should do the most obvious stuff first. It's been stood while I was away last week, and out of blind optimism I fired her up tonight. Coughed first time, then fired and ticked over OK for about 5 mins with no nasty mechanical noises. So I went out for a quick spin. Problem starts to appear when you open the throttle quickly or start to get over 4-5000rpm, then it starts mis-firing. It's not the coils as they've been replaced. So i'll whip the carbs off and give them a spring clean tomorrow as that's nice easy job, and then start poking around the loom with a meter if there's still a prob. cheers again one and all :-)

[yorkie_chris]

Lol so you don't need to pull the bottom end in bits quite yet...

[charlie13]

....(fingers stilll crossed) probably not, phew! :-)

[tomjones2]

I took it to the dealer to get them to remove the rotor, I found it impossible to get off without the right tool.

[yorkie_chris]

That's why he was going to borrow one from me :-P

[charlie13]

well after a bit more poking and prodding following the electrical tests in the workshop manual:
- battery condition seems OK and shows 12.6V at rest
- battery seems to be charging fine, meter shows 14V @ 5000 rpm
- generator coil resistances seem to be fine @ 0.8ohms
- but the generator no load voltage is a bit suspect and got nowhere near 70V AC @ 5000rpm
- and the reg/rec failed all the diode tests between terminals Y1-Y3 only showing good between the B/W & R terminals

So I guess it's a trip to the shops for a new reg/rec and fingers crossed the gen isn't fubar as well else i'll have to rob one off the spare engine in the attic.

[charlie13]

YES, SHE LIVES! :D

feel like a bit of a plonker that I got in such a panic when the bike went wrong, but it seems from 2nites test ride that a new reg/rec was what was needed.

thanks all, you certainly helped me think it through a bit more logically

SCOTLAND HERE WE COME!

[yorkie_chris]

Crank/electrics ... know the difference! :-P