PDA

View Full Version : exhaust wont budge


gaz-sv650s
28-07-08, 07:32 AM
any ideas guys and gals ?

my front down pipe wont budge at all

ive already snapped the two studs , ive got the back piece off , but this bugger wont shift ,

anyone with any ideas on how to please :)

cheers
gaz-sv

jambo
28-07-08, 08:31 AM
If you've snapped the 2 studs then you're in for some grief. None the less, have you undone the bolt that connects the front downpiper to the rear system, and is it moving there?

rictus01
28-07-08, 09:14 AM
you have removed the centre bolt on the lefthand side haven't you :smt102 (often forgotten).

Cheers Mark.

Stu
28-07-08, 09:24 AM
ive already snapped the two studs
I wish there was a sticky post or something on this site just saying, Don't even attempt to remove the front studs of the exhaust system on any SV older than 6 months/4000 miles or so.
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=110571

jambo
28-07-08, 09:37 AM
I wish there was a sticky post or something on this site just saying, Don't even attempt to remove the front studs of the exhaust system on any SV older than 6 months/4000 miles or so.
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=110571
There's a sticky that says "search before posting and provide all relevant information" for the impact that has I'd suggest more stickies aren't the way to go :D


Jambo

Dangerous Dave
28-07-08, 11:48 AM
You need to disconnect the front header from the rear of the system, this can be done at the section underneath the clutch cover.

You also need to check that you have undone the bolt behind/below the right footpeg and on the passenger foot peg which connects to the silencer.

Then there is the clamp which is near the rear shock, you can access this from the left hand side (remove black side panels), which secures the rear downpipe/system to the rear header (this is a little stump).

The last thing to check, and most commonly missed is the bolt which is accessed from the left hand side towards the front of the sidestand under the engine. It connects the connector section (where the rear cylinder snakes around) to the frame.

Grinch
28-07-08, 11:58 AM
you have removed the centre bolt on the lefthand side haven't you :smt102 (often forgotten).

Cheers Mark.

I have not idea what your talking about... ;) :-$

dizzyblonde
28-07-08, 12:49 PM
Its an absolute barsteward to get the system off, if its never been off. It took YC about three weeks of careful persuasion, with various devices of a heavy kind, .I say this in a polite manner as I could have hit him with a hammer at times over it, it was cringeworthy!
If you've snapped the studs off, its going to be tricky, somewhere along the lines of a stud extractor I think. As the others have said, have you taken the other bolts off? Be careful when you eventually get it off, you will need a new front gasket thingy, and in the rear there is a muffler gasket( funny looking wire wool type object....I made the mistake of pulling that out, so i had to buy both new

Stu
28-07-08, 05:37 PM
Its an absolute barsteward to get the system off, if its never been off. It took YC about three weeks of careful persuasion, with various devices of a heavy kind, .I say this in a polite manner as I could have hit him with a hammer at times over it, it was cringeworthy!
If you've snapped the studs off, its going to be tricky, somewhere along the lines of a stud extractor I think. As the others have said, have you taken the other bolts off? Be careful when you eventually get it off, you will need a new front gasket thingy, and in the rear there is a muffler gasket( funny looking wire wool type object....I made the mistake of pulling that out, so i had to buy both new
Be very wary before using an easy out - when (not if :roll:) it breaks you'll have no end of trouble getting the stud out e.g. 7 broken cobalt drills before giving up & cutting the post below the stud extractor.

new front gasket thingy - What you talking about :confused:

gaz-sv650s
29-07-08, 03:49 PM
all nuts and bolts undone !!! nothing holding it in as far as i can see but it aint moving

i got myself a stud extractor for when i can finally get the pipe off to remove studs , at minute it wont fit on , impact type extractor

ive sprayed no end of wd , damn thing wont budge !!!

cheers for all the advice , im gonna try a blow torch next and heat her up see if that helps - petrol tank removed of course !!!

dizzyblonde
29-07-08, 04:07 PM
Be very wary before using an easy out - when (not if :roll:) it breaks you'll have no end of trouble getting the stud out e.g. 7 broken cobalt drills before giving up & cutting the post below the stud extractor.

new front gasket thingy - What you talking about :confused:

round copper ring thing that goes on to seal your exhaust on the cylinder head I believe

all nuts and bolts undone !!! nothing holding it in as far as i can see but it aint moving

i got myself a stud extractor for when i can finally get the pipe off to remove studs , at minute it wont fit on , impact type extractor

ive sprayed no end of wd , damn thing wont budge !!!

cheers for all the advice , im gonna try a blow torch next and heat her up see if that helps - petrol tank removed of course !!!


get some freeze and release spray too. Apparently heating it, and freezing it shocks them into coming out....perhaps you should ask YC...he did my terrible pain in the ass bike:cool:

Dangerous Dave
29-07-08, 04:15 PM
Try a rubber mallet (gently) at all the connection points and mounting points, could be welded on with rust.

yorkie_chris
29-07-08, 05:25 PM
I could have hit him with a hammer at times over it, it was cringeworthy!

They came out complete with rust all the way down the threads, without snapping. What more do you want.. blood? :-P

Be very wary before using an easy out - when (not if :roll:) it breaks you'll have no end of trouble getting the stud out e.g. 7 broken cobalt drills before giving up & cutting the post below the stud extractor.


Easy outs are totally useless on rusted in bolts. If a full sized nut-head wasn't strong enough, then what good is a tiny little thing going to do?

The best way IMO is to grind the nuts off carefully so as to leave the studs intact, then to use heat, plusgas and patience to work he studs loose with a proper stud remover. i.e the socket type ones, or indeed 2 nuts but be sure you are turning not bending them!

My front downpipe was welded in with rust. I used a big hammer and a lump of wood to persuade it loose.

maviczap
29-07-08, 05:36 PM
Didn't have this issue with my system, guess I was real lucky judging by the posts. My studs came out using the two nut method.

But I had the same problem with rocker cover bolts on my Guzzi Spada, so I sympathise with your issue

If your stud extractor method doesn't work, the you may need to resort to removing the front cylinder head and having the studs spark erroded out.

Sorry if this the worst case scenario, but as the others have pointed out, an easy out isn't going to shift this mother, and if it snaps you realy are stuck.

Another possiblity is having a nut wealded to the stud, the combination of heat and having something solid to slip a spanner onto, might just do the trick. You'll need someone handy with welding gear

yorkie_chris
29-07-08, 06:44 PM
Yup MIG it or someone who's reasonable with oxy torch.

A new head is likely to be a fair bit cheaper than 2 spark erosions.

paiste
28-05-10, 03:16 PM
Thread resurrection!!

Got the Exhaust nuts off, Exhaust off and studs out no problem.
Only trouble I'm having now is how the hell do you get the stud out of the stud extractor????
It's one of those socket type ones with the eccentric holes that tighten up on stud.