Sprocket Advice

[Brettus]

I'm due a chain and sprocket change and I'd like to drop a tooth on the front and gain one on the rear, are all sprockets the same fitting or are there different types?
so far I understand the 525 bit being the chain size/pitch of teeth, number of teeth and the material, I will most likely go with steel unless anyone has anything to mention?

I was going to get it done while my bike is in for its service but I figure the £45/hour they would charge me would pay for a paddock stand and almost a chain riveter. (assuming they only charge for an hour)

oh, one last thing, chain size, is it 114 links required?

Thanks

[Baph]

I *Think* all 525 sprockets are the same in terms of how they connect to the bike.

Steel is probably the best bet for longevity. A chain rivetter will probably cost you £50 or so, but it will pay for itself after a couple of chains.

The only thing you want to be weary of, is the fact that the front sprocket is a beggar to get off by hand - I have an electric gun for just this purpose.

Chain size, IIRC, for the pointy S, it's 110 links standard. If you have a chain rivetter, more is better, as you can always chop them off.

[Dangerous Dave]

Steel sprockets are the way to go....

[Brettus]

Cool, Thanks for the advice guys.
I've got a torque wrench good for 210Nm and Halfords pro sockets, do you reckon that will get it or will i most likely need an impact wrench? just wondering for budget rather than not listening to the advice.

What kind of chain am I best going for? I've done lots of searching but not seen anything useful on the pro's and con's of the x or o ring type, any advice on those?

Thanks

[rigor]

The front sprocket should be tighter than a tight thing that's very tight. I wouldn't use your torque wrench to undo it, it's an easy way of screwing the wrench up. A long breaker bar may do it, or find someone with an gun that you can borrow.

[Brettus]

The front sprocket should be tighter than a tight thing that's very tight. I wouldn't use your torque wrench to undo it, it's an easy way of screwing the wrench up. A long breaker bar may do it, or find someone with an gun that you can borrow.

Okie doke, will see what I can source then, thanks for that.

[Biker Biggles]

Any quality o ring chain will do the trick,as long as you fit it right and keep it lubed and adjusted.

[Dangerous Dave]

A long breaker bar may do it
+ 1, this is what I do also only use a torque wrench to tighten.

Have a look at the B&C Express (http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/) webiste for chain and sprockets.

[Mr_Chin]

Agreed, breaker bar should do the trick. Put the bike on a paddock stand, and get someone to put thier foot on the rear brake - the chain will be sufficient to stop the front sprocket from turning. You also don't need to worry about the stress on the chain, as it will be changed with the new one. I done a chain and sprocket change last week, and this worked for me. The nut on the front sprocket is done up well tight though, but with a little perseverance (or air gun) it will come off. Don't forget to re-bend the washer over the nut when you put the new sprocket on for safety.

Chin.

[fastdruid]

The front sprocket should be tighter than a tight thing that's very tight.

I beg to differ, first chain change (so originally done up by suzuki), nut was loose!
I made sure that it was torqued up, nutlocked and properly tabbed.
By the second chain change the nut was loose again!

I did have a scottoiler on it though, first chain lasted 18k, second lasted 10k before I swapped it for a 520 chain with lowered gearing. :D

Now if it's been recently serviced they *should* have checked the nut and tightened it up, if it's been a while then it might be loose.

I wouldn't use your torque wrench to undo it, it's an easy way of screwing the wrench up. A long breaker bar may do it, or find someone with an gun that you can borrow.

I've done it before with a 300Nm torque wrench before, whack it up to 300Nm, reverse the direction and use it as a wrench, not recommended though.

Druid

[Dangerous Dave]

I made sure that it was torqued up, nutlocked and properly tabbed.
By the second chain change the nut was loose again!
The washer which you have to bend is designed to stop the nut from undoing, if the sprocket nut is loose it wasn't done up properly!

[fastdruid]

The washer which you have to bend is designed to stop the nut from undoing, if the sprocket nut is loose it wasn't done up properly!

Trust me it was, the washer was all that was holding the nut on.

The first one was loose, that was done up by Suzuki.

I've had the same with a TDM and others have had the same with the SV.

Scotoilers exacerbate the problem though as the chain lasts for so much longer. Even so I'd advise at checking the nut every time you adjust the chain and at the very least every time you change tyres.

I suspect it's more wear rather than actually loosening (as the washer prevented the nut from turning) and riding style may have something to do with it.

Druid