Log in

View Full Version : curvy chain and paddock stand


Nicky S
29-08-08, 09:59 AM
k well it has come to that gr8t time of me having to do my chain becuase it has become lose well very lose iv only had the bike 3 4 days so dnt know ever thing about it atm.

i was jsut woundering if someone could tell me how to do it and also if they know what the torque is for the back wheel.
it a 02 curzy.

also any one know were you can get a nice paddock stand so it easyer for me to get the bike off the ground . . . . ? and plz dnt say ebay

thanks :P

Alpinestarhero
29-08-08, 10:02 AM
The best stands (IMO) are Abba stands or the NWS stands (which are a similar thing). Instead of lifting the bike off the ground by the swingarm, they attach at the swingarm pivot point, and get the whole wheel off the ground like that

Means much better access and easier to work with, IMO.

I think the rear axle torque for the nut is 100 Nm, but dont take that as gospel.

Matt

Nicky S
29-08-08, 10:23 AM
k so i got paddock stand bit done any one wanna sort of walk me throught how to do the chain :)

fizzwheel
29-08-08, 10:37 AM
You should adjust the chain tension on the side stand not on a paddock stand.

Procedure for doing the chain tension is in the owners manual if you have one.

Basically undo the wheel nut, then use an allen key to undo or do up ( depending on which way you want the back wheel to move ) the allen head bolts on the end of the swingarm. IIRC the chain tension should be 25mm - 35mm but there shoudl be a label on the swingarm the tells you what to set the tension to as I cant remember.

Nicky S
29-08-08, 11:36 AM
thanks for that iv done it now just one small question thought is 47 right for the torque becuase to me that seems small ??

Alpinestarhero
29-08-08, 11:39 AM
Oh yea, dont trust the marks on the swingarm for wheel alignment - they are often not accurate. My dad told me to do a set turn on each allen key adjuster - one flat edge at a time

vardypeeps
29-08-08, 11:42 AM
For a curvy it's 65 for the rear axle in the good old haynes. Chain should be 25-35mm on the side stand and make sure it's lubed up!

Dangerous Dave
29-08-08, 11:46 AM
You should adjust the chain tension on the side stand not on a paddock stand.
+ 1, there is no need for a main stand as it can be doen easily on the side stand.

Basically undo the wheel nut, then use an allen key to undo or do up ( depending on which way you want the back wheel to move ) the allen head bolts on the end of the swingarm. IIRC the chain tension should be 25mm - 35mm but there shoudl be a label on the swingarm the tells you what to set the tension to as I cant remember.
Spot on there Fizz, and torque the spindle/axle back up to 65Nm and while you are at it don't forget to lube up the chain.

Nicky S
29-08-08, 12:00 PM
Oh yea, dont trust the marks on the swingarm for wheel alignment - they are often not accurate. My dad told me to do a set turn on each allen key adjuster - one flat edge at a time

yea that what my dad told me to :)

Nicky S
29-08-08, 12:01 PM
For a curvy it's 65 for the rear axle in the good old haynes. Chain should be 25-35mm on the side stand and make sure it's lubed up!

right so haynes says 65 but the manual for the bike says 47 ummmmmmmm i think im gan go with haynes ....

Grinch
29-08-08, 12:03 PM
If your really bored, once you have the chain sorted and lube and the axle nut up tight, wind out the adjuster bolts. They get bloody filthy and tend to jam up, so give them a little clean and give them some copper grease. That way the next time you adjust the chain you not cursing the fact that the adjuster bolts won't move.

Grinch
29-08-08, 12:04 PM
And again make sure you have done the main axle nut up so you don't have to adjust the chain again, just tighten the nuts till they stop.

Dangerous Dave
29-08-08, 12:14 PM
right so haynes says 65 but the manual for the bike says 47
If it helps I have always torqued it up to 65Nm on all SV's I have worked on, never had a problem.

Nicky S
30-08-08, 09:51 AM
If it helps I have always torqued it up to 65Nm on all SV's I have worked on, never had a problem.


kk yea 65 sounds a lot more safer then 47 cheers guys :P

yorkie_chris
30-08-08, 09:57 AM
More torque does not always = safer.

AndyBrad
30-08-08, 10:07 AM
More torque does not always = safer.


agreed. you can easily over torque something dependent of the material specification and application. Also whether the joint is lubricated and what with provides a significant increase in the tensile stress in a fixing.

real work example is i over torqued the wheel studs on a mini, causing the nuts to shear and loosing a wheel. be careful.

And on that note does anyone have a link to a mini torque wrench? mine is bloody massive :)

Nicky S
31-08-08, 06:15 PM
agreed. you can easily over torque something dependent of the material specification and application. Also whether the joint is lubricated and what with provides a significant increase in the tensile stress in a fixing.

real work example is i over torqued the wheel studs on a mini, causing the nuts to shear and loosing a wheel. be careful.

And on that note does anyone have a link to a mini torque wrench? mine is bloody massive :)

k thats a gd point. well seeing as sv book says 47 and haynes says 64 i did it to 52 it fine no problems so cheers

ejohnh
31-08-08, 09:47 PM
I checked the diff between the chain slack on the sidestand and on a paddock stand. There was no noticeable difference*. Now I always align the wheel using ally section straight edges, and adjust the chain tension at the same time - on a rear wheel paddock stand.


*An Abba stand, or any lift which takes all the weight off the rear suspension, will prob result in a a more noticeable difference

yorkie_chris
31-08-08, 10:57 PM
Yes there is noticeable slackening of the chain on an abba or centre stand, leading to overtightening it. This stretches it as the suspension compresses.