View Full Version : Clutch adjustment
Dave20046
21-09-08, 10:38 AM
Right after messing around with my clutch for a fair while yesterday I found I could get it to how I found useable. The bite point was far to up the scale of the clutch (crap wording); what I mean is it only started to bite when almost fully released, right on the tips of my fingers. Hows the best way of adjusting this? I tried adjusting the cable from one extreme to the other but it never really sorted it only either made the clutch heavy or lighter. Do I have to take that casing off the side of the engine and reposition the lever or something?
Also I think my clutch plates are sticking, when it's cold and my clutch is in and I'm in first if I rev it'll move forward. Is this a problem or is there a fix?
Cheers!
Dave20046
21-09-08, 11:35 AM
Just a Bump (feel like going in the garage and having a go before my excursion to worksop ) :rambo:
thedonal
21-09-08, 02:35 PM
I'm having the same thing. My clutch cable is only 1 year old and not totally stretched out yet- I've adjusted the worm drive and my mechanic has advised that the clutch needs inspecting and possibly an overhaul. He also reset the clutch and my bite point is further out than usual.
Either the clutch basket is grooved and needs smoothing (if it's not too bad), or the plates are warped and need pressing, or both!
Dave20046
21-09-08, 02:47 PM
poo
:(
Adjust the whole clutch mechanism systematically as per the gospel according to Squid (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=107690&highlight=clutch+adjustment).
Also lubing the cable is worthwhile, I like to use silicone oil (aerosol Nylon&rubber lubricant courtesy Halfrauds). If the cable is suspect, replace it, not a million pounds and worth every penny if it is needed.
Dave20046
21-09-08, 04:54 PM
Adjust the whole clutch mechanism systematically as per the gospel according to Squid (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=107690&highlight=clutch+adjustment).
Also lubing the cable is worthwhile, I like to use silicone oil (aerosol Nylon&rubber lubricant courtesy Halfrauds). If the cable is suspect, replace it, not a million pounds and worth every penny if it is needed.
A shop near me recommend using old engine oil for that.
Thanks a lot for the link!
A shop near me recommend using old engine oil for that.
Why??
Dave20046
21-09-08, 06:45 PM
Why??
Apparently it lubricates it really well.
Dave20046
21-09-08, 06:46 PM
Well I've done all that in the link and it feels ever so slightly better but it hasn;t noticeable changed the position of the bite point on the clutch lever. Have I tightened the adjustment screw too much/too little?
Back the screw out a fraction & that should sort out the bite point.
The way I do it, is undo the locking nut, turn the screw according to the gospel, test it, then lock it and test again.
Recently replaced the cable on mine after it snapped, and I greased up the return spring & everything I could get access to easily. Feels like it's barely attached to a clutch now, and bite point isn't far from the bar.
Dave20046
21-09-08, 07:13 PM
Back the screw out a fraction & that should sort out the bite point.
The way I do it, is undo the locking nut, turn the screw according to the gospel, test it, then lock it and test again.
Recently replaced the cable on mine after it snapped, and I greased up the return spring & everything I could get access to easily. Feels like it's barely attached to a clutch now, and bite point isn't far from the bar.
Ahh was doing it the wrong way then. Crud I've put it back together again now - will resume tomorrow lol
Cheers baph
Sid Squid
21-09-08, 09:41 PM
Back the screw out a fraction & that should sort out the bite point.
Don't do that, if you want the bite point closer to the bar slacken the cable a dab, always adjust the lifter correctly so the mechanism functions right.
Dave20046
21-09-08, 09:56 PM
Don't do that, if you want the bite point closer to the bar slacken the cable a dab, always adjust the lifter correctly so the mechanism functions right.
Cheers sid, how hard is the adjustment screw supposed to be screwed in. Just until you feel contact? Or a bit more - think I may have done it a touch tight (have a horrible habbit of doing that! My bikes currently leaking engine oil after an oil+filter change think it's my fault :( )
Cheers sid, how hard is the adjustment screw supposed to be screwed in. Just until you feel contact? Or a bit more - think I may have done it a touch tight (have a horrible habbit of doing that! My bikes currently leaking engine oil after an oil+filter change think it's my fault :( )
Do each step in sequence...................
Originally Posted by Squid, Several Times Now
1 - Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom,
2 - loosen lifter locknut,
3 - back out screw a bit,
4 - ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go,
5 - gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut,
6 - roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then...
7 - with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
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