View Full Version : Oil Topped up too much.
tonybmw92
17-10-08, 10:26 AM
Whilst giving the garage a quick tidy up i found a drop of oil about 75cl ml or whatever it was and decided to top up my oil with it. Now my bike is pants on accelaration up through the gears it kind of holds back and i have to up change quick to bypass the issue. I think it must be because of too much oil. should i just drain a little out or wait until it clears? sorry im not very bike technical hence the post.
Mr Speirs
17-10-08, 10:29 AM
Turkey baster and suck it out. Have you checked the oil level through the spy glass? Is it where it should be? Are you sure it was oil and not tar? :)
tonybmw92
17-10-08, 10:31 AM
ha ha no im sure it was oil and the level shows it as being full when on the level.
The Guru
17-10-08, 11:24 AM
Take some out.. but keep above the minimum and see if it makes a difference.
Dangerous Dave
17-10-08, 11:26 AM
On the full or just below the full?
tonybmw92
17-10-08, 11:51 AM
I think on the full i will need to check again when i get home. the whole window is full of black oil as i recall. is it just a case over letting the engine run for 5 mins then loosen of the nut and let out a little drop and see how it is?.
vardypeeps
17-10-08, 12:01 PM
Yeah on level the oil should only come up to the f line if it fills the whole window you need to drain some off ASAP !!!!. Find your drain plug and let a little out at a time end of the day you can put it back in if you let out too much but it needs doing.
I think when you have too much oil in it can force it past your piston rings which I think is bad for you bike :P
yorkie_chris
17-10-08, 12:02 PM
Loosen filter, if you do it on drain plug you'll end up wearing most of it.
Mr Speirs
17-10-08, 12:17 PM
I was going to say 'Do not loosen the drain bolt as you pretty much loose half the oil before you have a chance to tighten it up again' But YC beat me to it.
Maybe you could just to an entire oil change?
skyline
17-10-08, 01:22 PM
There is a way to use the drain bolt without losing half the oil - loosen the bolt so it's not connected to any threads. When the oil starts coming out put the drain bolt straight back in the hole to plug the oil and put the bolt at an angle in the hole so there's a little space at the side of the hole. The oil should come out slowly and neatly then.
When I adjusted my oil level a while ago I was going to use the filter but I'd heard that the engine would be running without oil for a few seconds when it's next started as the filter would be empty...
tonybmw92
17-10-08, 07:29 PM
i will try loosening the nut and see what happens if it all goes pear shaped i migh do a change. what is the amount i should put in i think when my mate done it we used about 2 and a half litres?. Is there a good but cheap one i can use between now and my next service around spring time. last time i used Castrol Power1 GPS 4T 10W-30 .
I recently used the brake bleeder (MityVac) that I have in the shed to suck oil out of ziv's bike. Took a good few hundred ml out of that thing!
ThEGr33k
17-10-08, 07:45 PM
i will try loosening the nut and see what happens if it all goes pear shaped i migh do a change. what is the amount i should put in i think when my mate done it we used about 2 and a half litres?. Is there a good but cheap one i can use between now and my next service around spring time. last time i used Castrol Power1 GPS 4T 10W-30 .
10W 30 seems a little thin tbh, 10W 40 is better! ;)
yorkie_chris
17-10-08, 07:58 PM
It won't do any harm, a decent quality oil won't thin due to attrition as much as a cheap thick one.
I use motul 5100 10w40 which is a 100% ester based oil. Overkill, but good stuff.
madness
17-10-08, 08:05 PM
However you decide to get it out doesn't really matter, but I wouldn't ride the bike until you're back to the recomended oil level. Too much oil can cause excessive oil pressure which can blow engine oil seals.
yorkie_chris
17-10-08, 08:11 PM
Yeah and also froth up, which can reduce proper oil pressure and damage engine. Case pressure will go up, but that'll mostly show by oil getting blown into airbox.
tonybmw92
18-10-08, 09:29 AM
ive riden it to and from work around 18 miles each way for three days and it seems a little better today although i will sort it tommorow when i get a day off.
yorkie_chris
18-10-08, 11:01 AM
Lol after a while it will burn off the excess and settle to a level. I still wouldn't recommend that approach.
Saint Matt
18-10-08, 05:02 PM
Just a thought, you are checking the level when it's level and not on it's stand aren't you? As checking on it's stand and it reading full would be way too much.
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 07:46 AM
well i changed the oil and filter and it at the correct level just below fill (checked on level ground) and its still lumpy going up through the gears. feels like compression or blockage of some sort. Any ideas?
well i changed the oil and filter and it at the correct level just below fill (checked on level ground) and its still lumpy going up through the gears. feels like compression or blockage of some sort. Any ideas?
Silly question, but did you check with the engine at running temperature? At cold you shouldnt see any oil at all in the glass when bike is level. And also when you said the oil is black, it should be oil coloured, not black. I'd mebbe try a flush.
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 08:26 AM
The oil is nice and golden colour as i changed the oil and the filter for new yesterday. i then ran the bike in idle for 6 or 7 mins then left it to settle and it was just below the full mark when i checked after letting it cool.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 10:10 AM
Silly question, but did you check with the engine at running temperature? At cold you shouldnt see any oil at all in the glass when bike is level. And also when you said the oil is black, it should be oil coloured, not black. I'd mebbe try a flush.
This comment worries me a lot.
Cold oil will still move around, and will still show in the sight glass, it's not 50w mineral oil in winter you know...
The Suzuki manual states that oil level should be checked with the engine at operating temperature. Tilting a cold bike off the sidestand to level it up and checking the oil level is not a good idea. Whether you see oil in the glass or not is irrevelent, in my bike, you dont if you do that, after running, it shows near max. After the oil has leveled up, fair enough you should see some.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 10:43 AM
So why is there a different amount of oil in there when warm? (expansion yadda yadda, but that's negligble on the sort of dT involved in this...)
Seeing oil in the glass is the only clue you get as to whether there's oil in the motor or not, what are you going to do on a rebuild... run it for 5 minutes only to discover that actually there was nothing in sump?
So why is there a different amount of oil in there when warm? (expansion yadda yadda, but that's negligble on the sort of dT involved in this...)
Not expansion, combination of viscosity of oil (which alters at temperature) vs gravity vs bike being oriented on an angle away from the sight glass when at rest on the side stand.
As for a rebuild, you simply completely drain and add the volume of oil specified by the manufacturer for that engine.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 10:58 AM
Right then so why does the bike being hot affect gravity? Angle of sidestand makes no difference as oil is checked with bike upright. Viscosity is also fairly unimportant as it may take an extra half second to reach an equilibrium level cold, but it's still going to be the same level as when hot.
Right then so why does the bike being hot affect gravity? Angle of sidestand makes no difference as oil is checked with bike upright. Viscosity is also fairly unimportant as it may take an extra half second to reach an equilibrium level cold, but it's still going to be the same level as when hot.
Have to say, i havent a ferkin clue, all i know is the marks on your sight glass are calibrated for a warm engine, not a cold one. If anything, it should read too high on a cold engine as everything is in the bottom end and not up the top. I'm just off out back now to experiment with my levels.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 11:19 AM
It says to check warm, not check when it's just been switched off and the oil is mostly not in the sump. That takes a bit of time to get back to bottom.
Right, for the record, i was talking b@lls. Just checked. Cold bike on stand - nothing in glass. Cold bike held upright for a few secs - site glass showing overfill, full to top. Just running bike to get up to temp now and i guess when warm it'll drop to max. Doh, guesss i've glanced at full glass before and as its full you dont see the meniscus line. My bad.
Yup, after annoying the neighbours by getting it to temp in the back garden, level has noticibly dropped to max. So cold overfill = ok at running temp. So i assume a fill to max at cold would actually be min required.
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 11:32 AM
Im well confused now as i said earlier i filled up ran engine as suggested in manual for 7 mins on idle then let it cool for 5 mins and on the paddock stand and when holding it level it showed jsut below the full line. so now in a state of panic i have left the office gone down to the car park and done my best to prop the bike up as level (under the side stand as i can) and the window is over full? this is driving me mad. is this because some of the oil will be sucked through the filter when running ?. also is there a decent way of measuring out 2.3 lites exactly to fill your oil tank?.
Im well confused now as i said earlier i filled up ran engine as suggested in manual for 7 mins on idle then let it cool for 5 mins and on the paddock stand and when holding it level it showed jsut below the full line. so now in a state of panic i have left the office gone down to the car park and done my best to prop the bike up as level (under the side stand as i can) and the window is over full? this is driving me mad. is this because some of the oil will be sucked through the filter when running ?. also is there a decent way of measuring out 2.3 lites exactly to fill your oil tank?.
From what you have said there, that is spot on. Sorry if my earlier post caused confusion. It should show slightly overfull on cold and between min and max after running for a while (not ragging it temp, just as you say running for 7 mins). Its just due to all the oil pooling in the bottom at rest and once the pump starts monving it you'll lose some to the filter and other components higher up. Basically the level you saw after 7 mins will be the accurate one.
PS, my bike has been dealer serviced last week with a full flush and oil change and matches exactly what you've just described.
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 12:03 PM
Thanks for the confirmation. just need to find out whats causing the hesitation when going up through the gears.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 12:04 PM
OK so we've established motor has right oil level :-P
Try in 4th or something and just pin it from 2k or so right up to redline
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 12:17 PM
I will give it a go on the way home which is tricky in central london even getting into 3rd gear is a luxury! i must admit the problem, doesnt seem as bad in higher gears. do you think it will just fart out whatever is lodged so to speak :smt100
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 12:24 PM
You need to describe the problem better. Is it boggy or hesitating in parts of the rev range or is a problem actually shifting betwwen gears?
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 01:42 PM
yes its"hesitating in parts of the rev range"
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 01:51 PM
Which parts?
tonybmw92
20-10-08, 04:17 PM
In fourth it struggles to go above 4000 rpm it like something is blocked or restricting it.
yorkie_chris
20-10-08, 10:43 PM
Will it free rev over 4k?
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 11:25 AM
i dont think so . i must admit i ran out of road when trying but i doubt it will. its so slow at getting higher revs after say 2000 rpm
yorkie_chris
21-10-08, 11:39 AM
At a standstill?
dizzyblonde
21-10-08, 11:51 AM
Is there a good but cheap one i can use between now and my next service around spring time. last time i used Castrol Power1 GPS 4T 10W-30 .
10W 30 seems a little thin tbh, 10W 40 is better! ;)
10w-40 is the oil your supposed to use in an SV, says so in da book.
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 11:56 AM
appoligies it wasnt 10w 30 it was the 10w 40 version of this oil. so you want me to rev the bike past 4000 rpm at a standstill? i will give it a go and let you know tonight.
yorkie_chris
21-10-08, 11:58 AM
I'm asking if it will do, does it generally sound and rev alright at a standstill?
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 12:22 PM
yeah seems fine
yorkie_chris
21-10-08, 12:29 PM
Did this happen all of a sudden? did you change anything else at the time?
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 12:36 PM
only the chain had a coating of wurth dry chain lube .
Sorry to interrupt your diagnoses, but I just wanted to give my two cents on the oil level confusion thing :)
I've been running my SV for over 12,000 miles now and my oil windows shows as follows and always has:
Come out to it first thing in the morning when the bikes cold, till it upright off the stand, oil window is Empty.
Let it run and heat up, tilt it off the stand, window shows correct oil level.
Leave it to go cold again, stand it upright, window will show Empty again.
I don't know exactly why this is, I assume it's do do with the where the oil rests in the engine while the bike is on the stand and then takes a while to circulate around once the bikes standing upright again.. and the heat from the engine running i'm sure helps it along :)
I have been assured this is normal, and the bike's been running 100% the for the past 12,000 miles =]
Edit: It's an '07 if that makes any difference!
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 01:08 PM
mines a 2002 curvy . im sure the oil level is correct i dont think its the oil that has caused this. i shall have a look at the plug at the weekend and airbox filter thingy.(you can see im very technical not!) anybody in the bromley/kent area that is bored and want to help me on either saturday or sunday. tea and coffee or beer on tap until problem is fixed! plus the obvious drink for your troubles. i begrudge going to the shop until i have at least had a dabble as it probally is something easy to sort.
Biker Biggles
21-10-08, 02:00 PM
Poor running on a curvy.
Having established that its not the oil level I suggest looking at likely cause number one.That is the choke plungers and choke cable.The cables can stick if not lubed,and the plungers can stick where they enter the carbs.These need to be removed by undoing the (awkward) screw that holds a small plate keeping them in place,and the innards lubed up.
Failing that,has the airbox been off?Are there any air leaks where it has been replaced or is it not seating properly?
Both these issues will cause fuel mixture issues which can cause rough running.
tonybmw92
21-10-08, 02:03 PM
The airbox hasnt been off since beginning of summer for last service/oil change and plug. The plunger thingy bobs i will need to look at the manual and see how difficult it is as i dont want to attempt it and then be stuck.
Ceri JC
22-10-08, 11:42 AM
Sorry to interrupt your diagnoses, but I just wanted to give my two cents on the oil level confusion thing :)
I've been running my SV for over 12,000 miles now and my oil windows shows as follows and always has:
Come out to it first thing in the morning when the bikes cold, till it upright off the stand, oil window is Empty.
Let it run and heat up, tilt it off the stand, window shows correct oil level.
Leave it to go cold again, stand it upright, window will show Empty again.
I don't know exactly why this is, I assume it's do do with the where the oil rests in the engine while the bike is on the stand and then takes a while to circulate around once the bikes standing upright again.. and the heat from the engine running i'm sure helps it along :)
I have been assured this is normal, and the bike's been running 100% the for the past 12,000 miles =]
Edit: It's an '07 if that makes any difference!
My 42,000 miled 2004 SV is (and has always been) exactly the same. The manual implies this is normal by telling you to warm the engine (a little- not "hot after a run" hot) before measuring it.
tonybmw92
23-10-08, 12:20 PM
I think the problem is solved after wasting more oil! but the problem seemed to be that there was a small amount of oil under the area where the oil filter sits. i cleaned it out with a bit of kitchen roll and it seems fine now. my current oil level is between the F and the L level and as long as this is okay i will leave it al the while it runs okay. Thanks for everyones input i will take it on the rat run up town in he morning and see how she runs for an hour then i will know for sure she is okay. I still cant understand how you measure out 2300 mil and it doesnt fill it up? is this becuase the filter holding onto around 300 ml worth? :)
cheers
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