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View Full Version : Broken off gear teeth?


defiant
11-11-08, 11:09 PM
Just changed the oil and these little fellows dropped out of the sumphttp://www.biker.ie/forum/images/smilies/wassat.gif
I only have the bike a couple of months and don't know it's history but it's been running well for me.
What do ye think they are off and how worried should i be?
The bike is a 99 curvy, 21,000 miles, displaying no symptoms of gear trouble or weird noises...

yorkie_chris
11-11-08, 11:19 PM
Put it next to a pound coin for f##ks sake :-P

The angular edges suggest gear teeth rather than dog teeth to me. If it's running alright then it's a problematic one. Engine strip is very labour intensive to replace parts or even just to fish all the other bits of loose metal out.

I can't remember which gears have the small notches showing in the center of teeth, I'll have a look in the morning.

Are the unbroken edges the same in section?

Grinch
11-11-08, 11:27 PM
Would they be of the teeth on the back of the clutch basket you think Chris?

yorkie_chris
11-11-08, 11:28 PM
Sprag gear. Possibly, also likely to break if engine kicks back due to a weak starter.

Luckypants
11-11-08, 11:33 PM
That looks suspiciously like what happened to Richie nonumbers last year....

Will try to find his thread.....

EDIT: ohhh lookit http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=95535&highlight=gear+teeth&page=4 - this has notches in the broken bits to.

yorkie_chris
11-11-08, 11:54 PM
Ouch. I fear the gearbox may be badgered then.

defiant
12-11-08, 08:05 PM
Done a bit of stripping after work and found the problem behind the alternator cover.
Anyone ever seen this before or have any idea how this could have happened?

Spokey
12-11-08, 08:21 PM
not been pressing the starter by accident once the engine's running ? could jar the starter gear ring and stress the teeth as it engages slowly as the ring is going round fast as the engine is running ?

Could also just be stress on the teeth, due to the loading during normal starting - stress related failure ?

looks like it won't be such a bad job to fix though - broken teeth tend to come off in 1 chunk, so quite likely if you can fish the bits out of the bottom you'll be ok to run when the toothless bits have been replaced as there shouldn't be any other debris in there

Lucky ...

Spokey

yorkie_chris
12-11-08, 11:01 PM
But the gears aren't rotating when engine's running, well only by drag not properly spinning. Starter kickback?

zadar
13-11-08, 03:04 AM
take small starter gear out.check case where pin in middle of gear fits in case,make sure it is not broken.while there turn teethless gear by hand and see if it spins freely.it will only spin in one direction.
if no problem found replace both gears.

AndyBrad
13-11-08, 09:39 AM
oh dear.

Although its not going to cause major problems is it? i used to have a mini with a few teeth missing on the flywheel

Spokey
13-11-08, 10:07 AM
oh dear.

Although its not going to cause major problems is it? i used to have a mini with a few teeth missing on the flywheel

It will alter the balance of the flywheel - this could cause vibration that effects other stuff down the line.

I'd change it.

Spokey

yorkie_chris
13-11-08, 10:55 AM
Let me know if you need spares.

defiant
06-12-08, 04:17 PM
Posted about this in the wanted section by mistake so i'll repost here where it should be.
The threads in the rotor are destroyed, previous owner must have tried to remove it and made a right mess of it.
I now cannot use a bolt to remove the rotor so has anyone any ideas how to remove the rotor and flywheel. I have new ones so don't care about damaging them.
I've tried heating and beating it and got nowhere...

yorkie_chris
06-12-08, 04:34 PM
You could weld round the inside and tap it out to take the puller again. Might shrink it harder onto the taper though.

geoffiommartin@
07-12-08, 01:05 AM
You could weld round the inside and tap it out to take the puller again. Might shrink it harder onto the taper though.
Hi get a air chisel as used in a body shop so you will need a compressor then fit the air chisel with a blunt tool lie flat on the end put the bolt back in crank almost all the way up to the flywheel put flat end of chisel on the bolt get a helper to put a little leverage behind flywheel, pull trigger on air chisel making sure chisel doesn't come off head of bolt and the impacting of the chisel will make the flywheel jump off the taper.

zadar
08-12-08, 05:20 AM
You could weld round the inside and tap it out to take the puller again. Might shrink it harder onto the taper though.
or weld big nut to it.

yorkie_chris
08-12-08, 12:24 PM
Would drilling around the taper slacken it at all?

defiant
08-12-08, 12:52 PM
With all the hammering I tried I don’t think retapping is an option.
The hole has gone very out of shape.
Drilling might be the way to go.
Do you mean drilling holes around the taper and hammering it again to loosen it?

Thanks for your help...

yorkie_chris
08-12-08, 12:54 PM
Yeah, where are you? You want a knackered crank so you know where you can drill?

defiant
08-12-08, 12:56 PM
I'm in Ireland but thanks for the offer.
I've got the new rotor so i can figure it out from that.
I'll give it a shot this evening and let you know how i get on...

yorkie_chris
08-12-08, 01:00 PM
Put some rags in bottom in case any swarf falls down, magnets will probably cop it but better safe than sorry

defiant
08-12-08, 01:02 PM
The magnets vibrated loose and fell off i beat is so much,
Cheers...

yorkie_chris
08-12-08, 01:05 PM
Stick one back in there to catch the swarf then

defiant
08-12-08, 08:32 PM
Drilling and brute force did the trick.
Was quite a relief to get it off.
Cheers Chris...