View Full Version : Help - My front brake has gone?
Help, I went to pull the front brake on the CBR earlier and the lever came all the way back to the bar with no braking.........I was very lucky.
I drove the bike home slowly, but there is nothing there except for a juddering feeling when I pull. Once I stop I can pull the lever a few times and the normal strength is restored and I can happily rock the bike backwards and forwards without it moving.
Pull away and nothing again, except for the juddering, which I reckon if I pulled up would stop me, but it makes it way too shaky to be safe.
Any ideas?
Oh I've checked the fluid, but that is fine.....
If you can pump it a few times and it restores normal function, I'd be betting air in the system.
Bleed & re-fill. See if that solves your problem.
Dangerous Dave
12-11-08, 07:48 PM
You beckoned....
Same advice as Baph from me.
Baph/DD - any idea how to?
Dangerous Dave
12-11-08, 07:51 PM
You need a spanner, a nipple, and a piece of tube..... ;)
You have a bleed nipple of both callipers, you need to slip on a spanner (usually 8mm) and then connect a piece of hose to it. Undo the nipple slightly, squeeze the brake lever in an then righten the nipple before releasing the brake lever. Do this repetitively with both callipers and the jobs done, I would advise you check that all banjos are tightened up properly first and that you have no leak.
Make sense?
Biker Biggles
12-11-08, 07:53 PM
If it was working ok,and you havnt done anything to it,and it suddenly went like you describe Id get it looked at by an expert.It does sound like air in the system,but why and how?
Dangerous Dave
12-11-08, 07:54 PM
The nipple is the bit on the top right on this calliper with the rubber cover on....
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=122&pictureid=822
Since we're talking about a CBR as well... bare in mind air may get stuck somewhere in the system & not want to come out too quickly. It's easy enough to do on an SV.
Chaps - thanks for once again answering the call.
I will have to go and have a butchers at this, I was lucky there was nothing in front of me earlier. I did think it may be a master cylinder issue.
So assuming it does just need bleeding how would it get air in like that?
You reckon it will be worse on the CBR then? Should never hve got rid of my beautiful SV.
So assuming it does just need bleeding how would it get air in like that?
You reckon it will be worse on the CBR then? Should never hve got rid of my beautiful SV.
When was the last time that the brakes were serviced properly? Could be the dust seals. If the lines are old they could be seeping. I believe that's why Mr. Biggles refered you to an expert/qualified mechanic. Quite rightly too if you don't know what you're looking at.
As for your question, I have no idea, just thought it worthy of a mention, because it's common to think you've got all the air out, when you have some trapped in an obscure place.
Yeah point taken a scary enough issue with nobody in front of me. I'm taking it to a friend on Saturday, he understands I'm a knob and shows me how to do things.
As ever you lot are top drawer - one minute arguing the next advising. You've got to love this forum!!!
I'm not sure when they were last serviced, the front was perfect this morning, but the back has always been less than great. I just thought that was the way back brakes were, the SV was the same.
just called my local Honda dealer "21st Moto" and they said, 'oh you have Honda AA assist on that bike, they will recover you to us and we have a slot in service tomorrow to have a look at it under warranty'.
How very civilised! I did ask them about any potential costs and he just said it would be a warranty job and if there were any costs they would advise before doing anything.
just called my local Honda dealer "21st Moto" and they said, 'oh you have Honda AA assist on that bike, they will recover you to us and we have a slot in service tomorrow to have a look at it under warranty'.
How very civilised! I did ask them about any potential costs and he just said it would be a warranty job and if there were any costs they would advise before doing anything.
hhhmmm this sounds to me as though they know about a common fault.
that is one scary common fault
Dropped it off down there this morning and they reckon it is a warp disc caused by a disc lock, now I am super careful with my disc lock and never left it on or moved it with it on.
What else might cause a warped disc?
DanAbnormal
14-11-08, 09:57 AM
Dropped it off down there this morning and they reckon it is a warp disc caused by a disc lock, now I am super careful with my disc lock and never left it on or moved it with it on.
What else might cause a warped disc?
If the brakes are binding they could have over heated the disc causing it to warp?
Just a thought but this is more common with older bikes.
I have asked for them to check the CCTV footage at work, but I fail to see how even if someone had tried to move it slightly it could've caused such damage.
I cant see how a warped disc would cause such effects on the brake lever......especially as you say repeated pumping makes it work fine.
Sounds to me like the fault has caused a disc to warp and they dont want to cover the cost.
I struggle to believe how a disc can become warped so easily on a bike.....seems to be the excuse for everything.
Yeah so if they come back to me what do I say - there is no visible damage to the bike, which you would expect from a disc lock error, wouldn't you?
A warped disc fits the problem description fairly well. When at a stand still the brakes can be pumped back up and work, when on the move the pistons are knocked back into the caliper by the uneven disc, meaning they need to be pumped back out and the first pull of the lever gives no braking force. There is also a shuddering as the brake pads try to grip an uneven surface.
If they claim disc lock, ask to see the damage on the disc carrier, caliper etc caused by the impact. I've ridden off with a disc lock on before and there's almost always a mark on the carrier when this has happened.
Jambo
Cheers Jambo - I certainly haven't since I've had it. Could it have been by the last owner and only just surfaced?
I just don't get it, it worked on the way to work but not on the way home.
So the only thing that could've happened was someone try to move it. The alarm has a tilt sensor and hadn't gone off and I would've expected the disc lock to be really tight up against the front fender or something, but it wasn't.
I knew something like this would happen if I took it to a dealer under warranty. I just can't see how it was fine am and fubar'd Pm?
muffles
14-11-08, 12:16 PM
Kick up a fuss, that's what your warranty is there for, if they can't prove any damage from a disc lock you're probably OK to claim against the warranty?
Well if it was fine on the way, and not on the way back is it possible someone's knocked it while you were at work? Accidentally hit it with something? You say you have CCTV, so dull as it is it's worth a look, as is inspecting the wheel, mudguard, fork bottom etc to see if there's a mark anywhere.
There's no point getting upset with the dealer, the bike's under warranty against mechanical and electrical faults for 2 years (IIRC). They picked it up and inspected it free of charge, if the disc is bent you need a new one. If it looks like the disc is bent from an impact, rather than warped, then the bike has been damaged, why, exactly should they or Honda pay for it under warranty?
Be nice and polite at all times, but ask for their evidence that this disk was damaged by negligence, rather than warping through manufacturing fault. They do have some latitude on this but they have to justify everything to Honda GB, they don't want to be getting in Honda's bad books simply to get you a free disc. If they won't budge, you can take the matter up with Honda GB direct, who can authorise the dealer to change the item under warranty. As the dealer is no longer taking a risk financially, or in terms of upsetting the manufacturer, once this happens they should only be too glad to help. Be polite and firm at all times, but check that the bike has not been damaged in any other way.
Best of luck
Jambo
philbut
14-11-08, 01:48 PM
Hmmm, interesting this. It would have to be one EXTREMELY warped disk to make the lever go back to the bar. I have warped disks on my ZZR and the lever pulses slightly, but it still brakes solidly and the bike itself doesnt shudder (or I'd change them). MOT man just gave it an advisory. If this damage was caused by a disk lock i'd be very supprised if there wasnt soem very obvisus damage to disk and / or calipers etc - would have to be one hell of a whack to warp it that much!
muffles
14-11-08, 04:51 PM
Kev - perhaps someone has sneakily swapped your disc out for a huge crinkle washer while you weren't looking ;)
http://www.bolts-nuts-washers.com/images/Crinkle_Washer.jpg
It is out by 1.5mm, which equates to a £176 repair bill for a new disc!!!
Anyone want to buy my CBR600RR, with now working brakes? £4750ono.
yorkie_chris
15-11-08, 08:27 PM
Foook me that's a lot of warp! £176 is a ripoff though, I'd have probably sent it to motoliner to have a go at battering it back.
muffles
15-11-08, 11:10 PM
It is out by 1.5mm, which equates to a £176 repair bill for a new disc!!!
Anyone want to buy my CBR600RR, with now working brakes? £4750ono.
Did you already pay this? Did they show you the damage & explain how it could have such a dramatic change in the space of a day?
Are you seriously selling up already?
I have the old disc and the damage is tiny - apparently the disc is 1.5mm out of shape and because the calipers are radial this is what caused the issue.
I use the bike daily so I needed it on the road asap.
Yeah I must admit I'm tempted to sell up and get a more robust tool to commute on. If someone wants to give me £4750 its gone and a supermoto style bike and an SV will probably adorn my drive.
Sad but true. If I find on the cctv someone has moved my bike I will kill them......
yorkie_chris
16-11-08, 12:13 PM
because the calipers are radial this is what caused the issue.
What difference does that make?
1.5mm runout is proper f##ed whatever sort of caliper.
mike_avfc
16-11-08, 12:13 PM
in the summer you will love that thing again - wait till then, do some weekend riding and then decide mate.
need to speak to you anyway, left you a vm friday - in car tomorrow morning so will call you then.
I'm off till Tuesday Mike.
Definitely thinking about it, a mate of mine has a Husqvarna and that thing takes some daily commuting.
muffles
17-11-08, 07:13 PM
Kev - I reckon you should keep it till you can get out on it properly in some nicer weather! Trust me it will seem completely different, these bikes are a different animal when you ride 'em like you should ;)
Are you saying a Husky is good or bad for commuting? I thought ride wise they were good but don't they all need oil changes every 8 hours use or something? And 60-mile range sort of stuff?
muffles
17-11-08, 07:14 PM
Kev - I reckon you should keep it till you can get out on it properly in some nicer weather! Trust me it will seem completely different, these bikes are a different animal when you ride 'em like you should ;)
Oh and on that, I still owe you a rideout so there, you have one booked and can't sell up till after that ;)
Yeah good point, I think my knee may have been jurking.........I'm worried about it potentially being done by a disc lock, as I use one daily and can't have that happening again...............perhaps I need to invest in another almax for work?
muffles
17-11-08, 09:55 PM
I can't help there as I used a disc lock for a year and a half going to work and was ok :D
Do you keep the bike in a position where it could be moved? I was always in a car park - there never would have been a reason to move it.
What you can do is be careful to put the lock in a position where it won't be able to travel far if someone does try to move it - e.g. front wheel up against the wall, and then put it right up against the mudguard. Or similarly, back wheel against the wall and up against the brake caliper. I'm still really surprised a disc lock could do that much damage though, it would take a SERIOUS whack to do it! I guess you did look & no damage on the bike itself?
muffles
17-11-08, 09:56 PM
Alternately - whack it on the rear brake instead! Cheaper to replace, less of a problem if it gets warped...etc
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