View Full Version : error code c-42
pencil shavings
16-02-09, 04:26 PM
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=124463&page=3
following on from this thread, can any one help with the error code, what is it and how do i fix it!
thanks
Jester666
16-02-09, 04:34 PM
From what I can see after google-fu it looks like an ignition error code.
No doubt someone far more knowledgeable will be along soon.
Have a nosey here (http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/suzuki-sportbikes/349798-fi-codes.html)
c42 relates to the ignition switch signal/anti theft 'device'. Have you checked the connections to the ignition switch? There are three connectors under the airbox behind the headstock (just behind the rad) that may get corroded or damaged.
You havent done any wiring mods have you? or maybe disturbed a connector somewhere?
c42 relates to the ignition switch signal/anti theft 'device'. Have you checked the connections to the ignition switch? There are three connectors under the airbox behind the headstock (just behind the rad) that may get corroded or damaged.
+1. Suzuki Service manual section 8-23 should sort you out.
I reckon if you're getting power when you turn the ignition on, then you're looking at a coil/HT fault.
pencil shavings
16-02-09, 06:07 PM
thanks for the replies. I will have alook tomorrow when im back from lectures.
I havent done any mods to the wiring, there is an alarm fitted from new, so I dont think that could be it.
I havent done any mods to the wiring, there is an alarm fitted from new, so I dont think that could be it.
If the alarm is the manufacturer approved one, that connects to the loom at a 4 pin connector behind the headstock as per flymo's post.
EDIT: To get at those connectors, you're looking at taking the airbox off completely, then employing a 4 year old as there's still not a lot of space.
pencil shavings
16-02-09, 06:28 PM
+1. Suzuki Service manual section 8-23 should sort you out.
I reckon if you're getting power when you turn the ignition on, then you're looking at a coil/HT fault.
is that the same as the haynes or somthing else?
yep, the bike turns on, but nothing else. and the alarm is still working as it should.
what is coil/HT :confused:
what is coil/HT :confused:
The HT lead is the 'fat' lead or high tension lead that runs from the coil to the plug cap. It carries mucho voltage :-)
Its probably one of those connectors behind the rad, they corrode up pretty fast.
The lead coming from the spark plug back to the engine (in a round about way), is the HT lead. Attached to that, is the coil.
I've just put the PDF version of the Suzuki Electrical manual on my server for you. Take a look at Section 8-23 (page 24 onwards).
To save myself any copyright issues, I'll PM the link to the document now...
pencil shavings
16-02-09, 10:04 PM
thanks for than Baph, unfortunatly I dont really understand much of it or know where to start!
Also dont have a multi meter so I cant really do much of that diognosis!
what do u sujest I do?
thanks for than Baph, unfortunatly I dont really understand much of it or know where to start!
Also dont have a multi meter so I cant really do much of that diognosis!
what do u sujest I do?
OK, first thing, nip to Maplin & buy a cheap DMM. Don't spend more than £10, you won't need anything more expensive than that. Whilst you're there, if you don't have WD40, pick up some switch cleaner (aerosol spray type).
Seats off, tank up. Top of the airbox off & air filter out.
From this moment on, don't drop anything down the butterflies that you can see inside the airbox. Please. Stuff a rag or something over them (dry rag, no fluff).
Stand at the throttle side of the bike, with a long phillips screwdriver. There's 2 clips holding the airbox on to the air intakes, unscrew these & take the airbox off completely (you don't need to disconnect the sensors/wires from the bottom of the airbox - I find it helps get more space, but you also need to remember where everything goes).
Once that's off, if you look behind the headstock (in front of where the airbox was), you'll see 3-4 connectors.
Take each connector apart, and give a good dosage of WD40/switch cleaner. Take the rags off & see if it'll fire. If it does, consider yourself lucky. Put the bike back together & stop reading here. :)
One of those connectors is Black/Red, Orange, Orange/Red, Brown wires (engine side of the connector, not the ignition side). Ignition on, check for voltage between the Orange and Black/Red wires. You should have 12v minimum here. If not, find the Orange wire in the fuse box, take that fuse out. Do you have 12v here?
Assuming you do get 12v to the ignition connector, check the other side of it for continuity (Red + Orange wires). If you don't have continuity, then either the wires to the ignition or the ignition itself needs replacing.
If all that's OK, the front plug gets spark first. So that coil is powered first. Change the coil/HT lead/plug cap from the rear cylinder to the front, then try from the start.
pencil shavings
16-02-09, 11:47 PM
thanks a million baph
will do the clean and check first, then go to maplin if it dosent work (bike is only mode of transport which makes life hard!!)
pencil shavings
17-02-09, 02:58 PM
ok, i had a play.
took off the air box and had a fiddle. It was so hard to get the connectors open, could only get to one. so i checked that one, it was fine. all the others were clean and intact from the outside, the whole area is clean, tidy and well protected by tape too.
so i turned it on anyway, started first time no probs, abs nothing wrong. ok...
turned it off, back on, the fule pumps didnt prime again :(
off and on again and it worked.
i have no idea what to do next, any ideas?
I also found a little LED light that flashes from the alarm that has corroded off, but i dont think this could be the problem, or it wouldnt have started now (started it about 3 times)
cheers
can the alarm be easily disconnected? is it as simple as pulling the plug from the loom?
If so might be worth doing just that and testing for reliability.
pencil shavings
17-02-09, 03:08 PM
can the alarm be easily disconnected? is it as simple as pulling the plug from the loom?
If so might be worth doing just that and testing for reliability.
nope, its locked in a million ways, even taking off the seat or disconnecting the battery triggers it.
so i turned it on anyway, started first time no probs, abs nothing wrong. ok...
turned it off, back on, the fule pumps didnt prime again :(
off and on again and it worked.
i have no idea what to do next, any ideas?
With the airbox off, turn the ignition on, and give the wires around the back of the headstock a wiggle. See if you can make the fuel rail prime/cut/prime etc.
I reckon it's a dodgy connection you've got there. You'll have fun finding that. :)
Yeah I agree Baph. I did notice on my bike that some of those connectors looked clean from the outside but had badly corroded connections inside them.
Hard to get to I know but worth checking. Water tends to run down the plastic tubes that hold the wires.
pencil shavings
17-02-09, 04:04 PM
With the airbox off, turn the ignition on, and give the wires around the back of the headstock a wiggle. See if you can make the fuel rail prime/cut/prime etc.
I reckon it's a dodgy connection you've got there. You'll have fun finding that. :)
:(:-k
ok, had another play, now i cant get it to not work!! lol
but ive found somthing out to do with the noises. when it doesnt work, there is still a small noise, which is this thing circled moving..
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/verismo_2001/100_2113-1.jpg
there is a bigger whiring noise which is what sometimes dosent work. when this noise dosent work is when the error comes. if it does work, the bike starts no problem at all.
pencil shavings
17-02-09, 04:06 PM
Yeah I agree Baph. I did notice on my bike that some of those connectors looked clean from the outside but had badly corroded connections inside them.
Hard to get to I know but worth checking. Water tends to run down the plastic tubes that hold the wires.
the one that i did manage to get to was pefect, looked new, not even the slightest sign of corrosion. but I know that dosent meen another cant be corroded!
:(:-k
ok, had another play, now i cant get it to not work!! lol
but ive found somthing out to do with the noises. when it doesnt work, there is still a small noise, which is this thing circled moving..
... snip...
there is a bigger whiring noise which is what sometimes dosent work. when this noise dosent work is when the error comes. if it does work, the bike starts no problem at all.
The pictured (and circled) part is the servo actuator for the primary butterfly. You'll probably notice that when this moves, the butterfly opens too (remember what I said about not dropping anything in there?).
The whirring noise is the fuel pump.
Have you dismantled the RH switch gear, check the connections on the kill switch (I'm assuming you've tripple checked the Kill Switch isn't disabling the engine. :lol:)
I'm in the office at the moment, but when I'm home, I'll look at the wiring diagram to see where the ignition system connects to the ECU so you can probe there with the DMM (but don't expect much to work with the ECU unplugged).
pencil shavings
17-02-09, 06:24 PM
I havent done anything with the switch gear, but it all works normally, I was playing with the kill switch today
OK.... I assume with the error code you're also getting the red light on, do you have "FI" showing in the dash, is it steady, or flashing?
From the headstock connectors, the black/red wire runs to fuse 3 in the fuse box as well as the reg/rec. That's the fuel system fuse. The other side of the fuse has a red/white wire coming from it to the ECU,LCD panel and fuel pump relay. The "stock" stock alarm also joins this red/white wire.
Take fuse 3 out, with the ignition on, do you have a voltage (should be 12V or thereabouts) when you bridge the black/red wire to earth using the multimeter?
The orange wire from the headstock connector is the main ignition live. If you didn't have this, or it was < 7V, you wouldn't get anything on the LCD panel.
The orange wire is connected to fuse 3 by the ignition barrel, and the headstock connector. If you don't have sufficient voltage at fuse 3, but you do have the LCD panel on, then the fault is most likely the headstock connectors or ignition barrel itself.
If you have voltage at fuse 3, but still no whirring sound, then check the fuel pump relay. Ignition on, test for voltage between the yellow/black and orange/white wires. Then test again with the red/white and yellow/red wires. When you test this pair, if the fuel pump jumps into life, suspect a faulty relay.
EDIT: I was just in the shower & thought I should clarify the last paragraph a little (I have random thoughts in the shower). I'm not saying that the relay will be faulty if the pump springs into life, just that it's a suspect. The ECU triggers the relay, so there could just as well be a reason the ECU isn't triggering it. So don't run out & buy a relay on the basis of the above paragraph. :D
Sid Squid
17-02-09, 07:24 PM
The item circled in the above picture is the linkage for the secondary throttle valve. These are the butterflies controlled electronically by the FI system, not the primary system operated by your pinkies.
The item circled in the above picture is the linkage for the secondary throttle valve. These are the butterflies controlled electronically by the FI system, not the primary system operated by your pinkies.
Yup, very true. Primary/Secondary blah-schma. :D
I did say it was servo controlled though, you've got to give me something.
PS. Yup, I was wrong when I stated primary. My bad, I apologise.
Sid Squid
18-02-09, 07:47 AM
Pedant? Me? I'm hurt, really, I am.
pencil shavings
18-02-09, 12:22 PM
OK.... I assume with the error code you're also getting the red light on, do you have "FI" showing in the dash, is it steady, or flashing?
IIRC the red light stays on untill the engine starts all the time. so yes, red light is ok, and the FI is flashing!
Im going to try and get a multimeter today, but noone wants to give me a lift there. If i can get the bike started, I guess its safe to ride? Is likly to cut out once its going, never happened before?
i will just leave it running outside the shop and get a shop man to watch it for me!! cunning!! [-o<
IIRC the red light stays on untill the engine starts all the time. so yes, red light is ok, and the FI is flashing!
[-o<
I can't say this strongly enough....
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE BIKE WITH THE FI WARNING FLASHING. EVER. FOR ANY REASON.
Right, now that I have a little more time, a bit more indepth explanation of the above post.
In the owners manual, the instruction for a flashing FI symbol is pretty much as above. It specifies to take the bike to a garage for inspection prior to attempting to start.
In the service manual (4. FI System Diagnosis - 4-14) it specifies that the engine can not run when FI is flashing, and the following:
The injection signal is stopped, when the crankshaft position sensor signal, tip over sensor signal, #1/#2
ignition signals, #1/#2 injector signals, fuel pump relay signal or ignition switch signal is not sent to ECM .
With your fiddling, if you can make the FI symbol solid as opposed flashing, you're fine to try the starter (in fact, the bike will probably fire to life with a solid FI warning - at least in this instance). If the FI warning turns off completely, same applies.
In theory, it's possible to cause severe damage to the engine, depending on what's causing a flashing FI warning. As no-one knows what's causing it for certain, please don't be tempted to hit the starter when it's flashing.
pencil shavings
18-02-09, 04:26 PM
I cant get it not work anymore, I guess Im just going to have to use it untill the problem comes back?
The bike just starts normally everytime now. There is not error and no FI displayed :confused:
While Im glad, its abit annoying, because the fault hasnt been fixed, so Im abit cautious about riding it still.
Is the bike not clever enough to disable the starter button if the FI indication is flashing?
And just to clarify - what flashes? the FI in the LCD display or the red light?
pencil shavings
18-02-09, 04:40 PM
Is the bike not clever enough to disable the starter button if the FI indication is flashing?
And just to clarify - what flashes? the FI in the LCD display or the red light?
umm, the red light was maybe flashing? I cant remeber now, and I cant get it to be broken any more either. I guess I will have to wait untill it goes wrong again :rolleyes:
While Im glad, its abit annoying, because the fault hasnt been fixed, so Im abit cautious about riding it still.
You'll be fine to ride when the FI isn't flashing. Just be aware that it could cut out on you again.
The problem, since it's magically gone away, is almost certainly a dodgy connection somewhere. Primary candidate is the connectors behind the headstock.
As for the bike disabling the starter button when FI is flashing, that's exactly what it does. But what if there's a short somewhere (causing FI to flash), and that short bypasses the ECU programming & allows the starter to function?
In a case where you don't know what's wrong, I'd advise following the manufacturers instructions. Those being don't start the engine when FI is flashing.
DavieSV
19-02-09, 03:07 PM
I notice you have a tail tidy
check to see if the relay/fuse box is located somewhere with the cables pointing down so that water can escape
This was the problem with mine when I had an intermittant C42 fault.
I poured the water out coated everything in vasaline, reassembled & relocated the unit to allow it to drain & sealed all the gaps around the tail tidy with silicon
I've had no problems since
Hope it helps
pencil shavings
20-02-09, 05:54 PM
I dont think there is any issue with water, there are drainage holes and I cant see any water marks or anything of that nature.
I just went for a ride today, the bike started fine, went and got a multi meter, went to start it and promblems again.
the red light was flashing and there was also the FI flashing as well as FI where the error code c-42 would come up if I was in dealer mode. I flipped the kill switch, and when I flipped it back up it worked again, no flashing red or FI and no soild FI. Started fine, rode around. Stoped in Henly, started fine again, rode it home no problems.
Does this help as to where I should be looking for the loose connection?
the red light was flashing and there was also the FI flashing as well as FI where the error code c-42 would come up if I was in dealer mode. I flipped the kill switch, and when I flipped it back up it worked again, no flashing red or FI and no soild FI. Started fine, rode around. Stoped in Henly, started fine again, rode it home no problems.
It seems from reading the above that the kill switch has some important significance. Although I'm not sure why that would cause a c42, an intermittent connection could cause the red light to flash (I'm not sure if the red light should flash or be solid - that'll be in the PDF somewhere around 4-14).
Perhaps if the voltage is all over the place on the ignition circuit (intermittent connection on the kill switch could cause this), it would cause a c42.
Strip the RH switch gear & take a look at the connections behind the kill switch.
Have you had any joy with the headstock connectors yet? (I find my 4yr old son comes in handy!! :lol:)
pencil shavings
20-02-09, 06:55 PM
ok, i will strip that on monday (im in bath with the gf for the weekend)
I havent been able to do any more behind the headstock, I just cant get in there without destorying the wiring or dismanting the whole bike, so I will try the switch gear first, as that will be easier! I will check where you said in a previous post with the multi meter I now have, but have no idea how to use!! :)
love this learning how to be a mechanic malarkie!! lol
jamesobrady
10-03-09, 12:53 PM
I just had a problem with my k5 recently....
It chugged and cut out on the road at 11pm last sunday.
Was reasonably wet weather so i assumed it was the water/front cylinder problem again. (must fit fenda extenda i've had for a year)
A mate called out with his car,jump leads, and a socket set. Dropped the rad, removed plug cap..applied copious amounts of wd40 and cleared drain hole.... started bike....
And it revved to 3k and stayed there with a red light and FI on the dash until sputtering and cutting out....
Right...more wd40.... no change.
Bollx....AA recovery to home and a night on the beer with the mate.
Got at it today, swapped over spare ECU..no change.
Had a think....What have i been up to on the Sv recently.... Last friday a trackday at mondello..ended in a lowside. Have ridden the bike problem free 500km's since.
Had removed fairing last sat to check damage. One plug removed..which is likely to be fine as dash is working fine.
...decided that it revving to 3 k means its getting air somewhere...check teh airbox seal. lift tank etc...pull out airfilter...remove breather filter and ..oh...lots of white gungy ****e in there...thats not right is it.... Clean with rag, start bike whilst looking at butterflys to check them(they were clicking funnily) .... get face full of gungy white ****e from breather pipes....
Bike runs perfectly.
Voila...when practising lowsides, check the airbox after it.
Ps..AA rocks... 250km recovery and a hire car for 2 days all for 200euro a year.... sweet.
jamesobrady
20-03-09, 07:21 PM
I just had a problem with my k5 recently....
Voila...when practising lowsides, check the airbox after it.
Ps..AA rocks... 250km recovery and a hire car for 2 days all for 200euro a year.... sweet.
Update: That wasnt the end of my problem.
Got the bike out the next morning to go for a spin...same problem.
Lifted the tank and pulled out airfilter. Turned on ignition and noticed the first set of butterflies didnt do their usual Whirr and stuff. They just stayed wide open. If I rocked the airbox they'd move.
Turned out the plug on the air pressure sensor was loose, which is at the rear of the airbox on the rhs as you're sitting on it. Took it off, cleaned it out, reconnected and FI warn and 3k idle problem gone.
pencil shavings
22-04-09, 02:39 PM
umm, the red light was maybe flashing? I cant remeber now, and I cant get it to be broken any more either. I guess I will have to wait untill it goes wrong again :rolleyes:
right, yesterday it happened again really bad... at the same place that it did the first time!! :smt096
I took the kill switch gear apart in the car park and it was fine. put it back together and still no luck. it just randomly started again after about an hour. :confused:
today it wont start again. flashing red and flashing FI and FI displayed on the dash.
looked behind the headstock again and there dosent seem to be any loose connections there.
any ideas :scratch:
thanks
C42 is ignition tampering IIRC. So check the ignition barrel as far as practically possible.
Also check the fuse box, I know mine can get a little damp as I have an EvoTech tail tidy fitted & water sometimes goes where it shouldn't - though usually only when I'm hosing the bike down.
pencil shavings
22-04-09, 05:09 PM
C42 is ignition tampering IIRC. So check the ignition barrel as far as practically possible.
Also check the fuse box, I know mine can get a little damp as I have an EvoTech tail tidy fitted & water sometimes goes where it shouldn't - though usually only when I'm hosing the bike down.
it happened when dry and not washed so i dont think water would be the cause.
what am i looking for at the barrel? the bike itself turns on, it just dosent prime the injection system.
If your multimeter is small enough, carry it with you on the bike.
Next time it happens (or if it's still the same now), take the fuel fuse out & bridge the gap (temporarily) with the multimeter (current check).
The fuel fuse is the one with a red/white and a black/red wire to it.
Basically, +12v comes from the fuse box to the ignition, and this is connected to the black/red wire to go out to the fuel system, and the fuse is the easiest place to test when you're potentially in the middle of no where.
DavieSV
22-04-09, 08:02 PM
I still think you need to look at the relay next to the fuse box under your seat.
I have just taken mine out and got the same simtoms as you.
can you not try someone else's in there to see what happens
I still think you need to look at the relay next to the fuse box under your seat.
That relay gets it's power from the fuse I said to check. :)
But yes, after the fuse the next point to check is that the relay isn't duff.
pencil shavings
23-04-09, 02:15 PM
ok, im trying to check it, but i dont know what im doing :confused:
what do I set the multi meter too to check the current?
I did a continuity test (I think) and i got lots of numbers, which google tells me is bad? but im not sure if i even did the test right.
the fule fuse looks fine to the eye and the contacts are fine too.
pencil shavings
23-04-09, 02:22 PM
ok, i think i figued the multi meter out. set it to v20 and took the reading. got nothing, screen stayed showing 0.
the continuity test shows -447
OK, you were supposed to set it to amps, rather than volts, but nevermind.
Did you take the fuse out, and put the multimeter to the metallic fuse contacts (effectively replacing the fuse with your multimeter)?
If you did, and you read 0v, then no power is getting to the fuse, let alone the relay or fuel pump. Double check this by going from the black/red wire side of the fuse to the frame (ground). If you read a voltage, good, check the relay, if you don't, follow the below...
The continuity test you did also implies that the connection isn't perfect (if you put it in ohms you'll probably find there's some resistance too). But this could also be caused by dirty contacts, or even just not putting the multimeter probes on properly.
Trace the red/black wire back from the fuse box to the connectors behind the headstock, looking for breaks in the wire.
Check the headstock connector (black/red wire) to ground (in the 20v mode) you should find a voltage there. If you do, the problem is that black/red wire. If you don't, next check the orange wire (same connector) to ground.
If the orange-ground has a voltage, but the black/red-ground doesn't, then the fault is either the wiring coming from the ignition barrel or the inside of the ignition barrel. Either way you're probably looking at a new barrel (there's not much point in stripping them down - mainly because of what you have to do to get them back together).
pencil shavings
23-04-09, 03:44 PM
ok, i took the reading again and got 10.5 when set to 20V and 3.4 when set to 20m.
when i tried to do the frame thing, i got nothing again, but back to doing the multi meter instead of the fuse thingy it gave the same readings.
pencil shavings
24-04-09, 03:47 PM
just checked the reply and that is fine too.
:confused:
OK, confirmation...
When testing the fuse holder to the frame, you got 0V (on the 20V setting)? Did you test both sides of the fuse holder (individually) to the frame? One side will give 0V, the other should give at least 8V minimum when the ignition is on (and kill switch not tripped).
You say the relay checks out fine, how did you check it?
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 12:41 PM
ok baph, sorry about my last few posts, they were shots in the dark, i know nothing about electronics and didnt even know how to use the multimeter. I spoke to my uncle and he told me how to use one and what to check.
first i check the batery, it had 12.somthing V
checked the fule fuse, one end on the neg of the batery and the other in the hole where the fuse was, got 12.somthing V.
checked the relay. the end that is directly connected to the batery showed 12.somthing V also. the other side showed 0V so i guess thats where the problem is? I was told to listen to the relay and see if it clicks on, and it does, but still no power getting through when the bike is turned on.
so i guess that means its a starter(?) relay problem? (thanks davie)
can I open it up and see whats going on inside or is it a new unit jobby?
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 01:07 PM
ok, took the top part off the relay (the bit with 4 thin wires going into it) and checked the V between all of the contacts and against the batery like before and everything i did got 0V.
new relay time?
No worries fella. :)
Right, so battery has enough juice. In practice, with a pointy, if the battery voltage drops below 7.5v, you loose the ability to use the fuel pump. I know this from experience. :(
There's power getting to the fuse, I'm assuming you still have the C42 issue?
You've said the relay clicks - just to confirm, this is the fuel pump relay?
As you look down at the bottom of the relay, it's a rectangular shape with part sticking out at one edge. Hold the relay upside down, with this edge facing away from you.
Going anti-clockwise, the pins are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4.
1) Check for continuity between pins 1 & 2 - there shouldn't be any.
2) Connect the battery positive to pin 3, and battery negative to pin 4. Check for continuity between 1 & 2 again. This should be continuous, with virtually no resistance.
If either of those tests fail, replace the fuel pump relay.
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 01:17 PM
No worries fella. :)
You've said the relay clicks - just to confirm, this is the fuel pump relay?
according to haynes its the starter relay. it is right next to the main set of fuses. it has a big semi transparent hard white plastic cover if thats any help.
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 01:22 PM
this is the relay. are the pins numbered correctly?
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/verismo_2001/100_2137-1.jpg
Yup, the clear plastic cover is on the starter relay. Apologies if it was mentioned above about the plastic cover.
Have you checked the relay as advised in 9-24 (#28 ) of the Haynes? The diagrams on the right side show the coil of the relay at the top (of the diagram)
If it fails that test, you'll need to replace the relay. If it passes this test, the fault is elsewhere.
EDIT, in your picture, pins 1 & 2 are the coil. DON'T connect the relay to 12v for longer than 5secs, or you risk damaging it - according to Haynes at least.
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 01:34 PM
cheers, I hadnt been able to find the relay in the haynes :confused: I will work through that now
thanks for your help :salut:
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 02:34 PM
ok, just done what it said in the haynes (which is also what baph said) and got infinate (well not quite but 1.somthing million as oposed to 3-6 ohms that it should be) resistance. I guess that it is the relay at fault then.
have to wait till monday to order it
1+ million ohms resistance on a 12v circuit is effectively the same as cutting a wire & leaving it dangling. :)
Did you get this resistance on pins 1&2 when 3&4 were hooked to the battery? If so, I reckon that at least one of the contacts inside the relay is broken. Shaking it gently whilst holding it in your hand will confirm this.
Either way, the resistance shouldn't be that high. Talk to your uncle about the relay test to confirm you've done it as you should - helping people over the t'inter-web means folks are invariably going to interpret instructions other than intended. Better safe than sorry. :)
Once your uncle confirms, order a new relay. :)
pencil shavings
25-04-09, 03:04 PM
I did the test with the relay removed from the bike and placed on my 'workbench' :) and then hooked up the battery... on wait... i think ive done it wrong :(
I connected the battery to the coil terminals (3+4) and then took the reading off that new circuit i had created :S but I should have done it from 2 big terminals on the relay.
I just put the bike back together again with the relay back in the bike because that was the only way to keep the alarm quiet. I will play again on monday, cba to take it apart again :smt086
That's why I said to check with you uncle. :)
Keep me posted. I'm suffering intermittent C42's myself, but if I flick the kill switch it goes away. So I haven't bothered stripping it to fix it properly yet.
Usual case, when you know how to investigate it, and what's likely to be wrong, it just sits there with nothing done to it. :)
pencil shavings
02-05-09, 01:47 PM
ok...
just checked the relay again.. this time correctly according to Haynes.
I get 5.1 Ohms across the relays coil terminals, which is right. which means the relay is ok I think?
pencil shavings
02-05-09, 07:37 PM
ok... the problem has been narrowed down to the ECU not pulling the ground side of the relay down to switch it on.
I have tested the relay/fuel pump and they both work.
(By I, I mean my uncle who actaully knows how to use a multimeter!)
Why would the ECU not be doing its job and are there input sensors or anything else I should check??
thanks
OK, if you've determined that the ECU isn't grounding the relay sufficiently, the next step is to work out if the ECU is FUBAR'd or if the ECU hasn't got sufficient earth itself.
Unplug the ECU, trace the ground wire from the relay to the ECU (looking for breaks etc. Then get a bit of wire, and attach one end to the frame (or battery -ve). The other end gets attached to the ECU plug (where the relay ground wire is - the one you've just traced). Then take the relay out again, and check for continuity between the ground terminal on the relay and earth (either frame or battery -ve).
If you have continuity here, good. If not, there's a problem in the wiring between the relay & the ECU.
Next, work out where the ECU earth cables are (I haven't got the haynes on me at the mo - I'll find out in a short while), and check for continuity between the ECU plug & earth using this wire.
If you have continuity here (and have continuity on the test above), then it's bad news. That means the ECU is FUBAR'd, and you'll be needing a new one. Pointy restricted ECU's sell for anywhere upwards of £65. Unrestricted ones are around the £150 mark.
If you don't have continuity in that last test (you may have to test more than one wire in total, but only one wire at any one time), then this indicates that the ECU is more than likely OK, but the problem is the earth wiring.
That brings me on to a point. Have you checked the main engine earth? On the pointy, there's a small bolt holding a wire to the rear of the engine. It's best viewed from the throttle side, and is down between the shock lower mountings and the engine itself. This wire then runs up the engine, and across the bike just behind the rear piston to a pretty large loom bundle tucked inside the rear left fairings. If you look at the connector there, it's all black wires. That's where all the earth's from various circuits meet.
pencil shavings
05-06-11, 12:11 PM
Hello guys,
yes this is a very old topic and yes I havent been on for a long time but I thought I would give an update :)
I had been living with this problem intermitantly for too long. It wasnt causing any great problems just irritation mostly and a bit of time to get it working.
However, some c-units stole my beloved bike from my driveway. Luckly they couldnt get it started (because I had taken out the batery for charging because I had a broken ankle and couldnt ride) and the damage was minimal when the police recovered it from a feild near my house.
Damage was:
Barreled ignition and petrol cap
RHS front faring chipped paint
RHS chip in tank paint
and a few scratches on the LHS
So I changed the barrel and that has magically fixed the problem wth the error code. So I can only conclude that the grainy feeling in the barrel (different thread) was actaully a loose conneciton in the workings of the barrel that was causing the problem.
I picked up a complete lock set off ebay for circa £50 so not the end of the world considering the bike got stolen and it fixed a long standing problem.
Hope this helps anyone else who has the same c-42 error code.
Cheers guys and girls :)
genebene
23-05-21, 05:35 PM
first time on here and saw were the i have a 2007Suzuki Boulevard C50 that has a code42 on it and trying to figure out were to look and how to fix it.
first time on here and saw were the i have a 2007Suzuki Boulevard C50 that has a code42 on it and trying to figure out were to look and how to fix it.
The main problem here is that this is the SV forum so we don't have any knowledge of the "quirks" of the C50 like we do with the SV650 models. The error codes do seem similar to the SV and according to this manual (VZ800 - that's the closest model I could find) the error is caused by a defective ignition switch (or a defective ECU - which is probably less likely).
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html?page=225#manual.
The manual suggests checking the switch for continuity and leads you to this page:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html?page=385#manual
So, with the switch in the "ON" position the red, orange, orange/yellow and brown wires should all be connected. Disconnect the battery before trying the test. It could also be the connection between the switch and the ECU, I suppose. Honestly, I don't even know where the ignition switch is on a C50.
There are forums dedicated to the C50/M50Volusia
https://www.volusiariders.com/
https://www.motorcycleforums.net/forums/the-boulevard.97/
They ought to have more experience than us. Good luck.
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