Wheel alignment question

[Grant66]

Did the chain adjustment thingy this weekend (first time its needed altering) and thought I'd check the alignment. Used the string method, pretty easy and no major worries getting it 'bob on'.

Now for the stupid question, how far out of alignment does it need to be before its noticeable to the rider?

I'm assuming the tyre wear will be greatly increased but what symptoms are there? Is it just a sence of having to steer to keep the bike in a straight line or would you end up in a bush on a twisty country lane?

[Dappa D]

hi gajjii, cant help with the question mate but have one of my own.....can you explain this string thing to me please??

[Grant66]

Haynes manual explains it well, but makes it sound overly complicated.

tie a 8ft piece of sting to a spoke of the rear wheel, take the length round the back of the rear tyre, wander to front (taking end of string with you) pull tight. As you move the string in and out you'll find the point where it touches both edges of the rear tyre (at this point, this is the direction the rear wheel is aligned to). Measure distance of string to the front wheel (if you use the lowest point of the outer rim you don't have to ensure the front wheel is perfectly straight).
Repeat on other side, ensure distance is the same. Not found a tollerance mentioned but its easy to get it within a mm.

[Dappa D]

ah cool many thanks....not seen this in the haynes manual will have a scan tonight (although your description is good!)

[timwilky]

I have two straight pieces of box section that I bolt at the rear wheel, It does exactly the same as the string method, except you know it is straight and can measure left/right at the same time.

The box section cost me about £10, and it saves one heck of a lot of faffing. Next time I do it I will post a piccy

[vardypeeps]

With the adjuster bolts being the same length. I take the screws out and turn them a very tiny amount till they bite then count the turns on each side to adjust the wheel.

[Gene genie]

Haynes manual explains it well, but makes it sound overly complicated.

tie a 8ft piece of sting to a spoke of the rear wheel, take the length round the back of the rear tyre, wander to front (taking end of string with you) pull tight. As you move the string in and out you'll find the point where it touches both edges of the rear tyre (at this point, this is the direction the rear wheel is aligned to). Measure distance of string to the front wheel (if you use the lowest point of the outer rim you don't have to ensure the front wheel is perfectly straight).
Repeat on other side, ensure distance is the same. Not found a tollerance mentioned but its easy to get it within a mm.
doing absolutely nothing this afternoon, may just put that to the test.
seen guys do something similar to that wit touring cars, all the right kit though but essentially they were using a string.

[Dappa D]

yep ill be trying it next weekend......cleaned the chain this weekend as not done it since the bike was written off in november, and found kinks galore :-(

the manual says between 20mm and 30mm slack...mine keeps going up untill its stopped by the frame...so way over the 30mm oops!...been a bit worried about adjusting it as not got a paddock stand but gonna see if i can borrow one and sort it next weekend. thanks for the info

[The Guru]

yep ill be trying it next weekend......cleaned the chain this weekend as not done it since the bike was written off in november, and found kinks galore :-(

the manual says between 20mm and 30mm slack...mine keeps going up untill its stopped by the frame...so way over the 30mm oops!...been a bit worried about adjusting it as not got a paddock stand but gonna see if i can borrow one and sort it next weekend. thanks for the info

Supposed to adjust on side stand I think

[Dappa D]

Supposed to adjust on side stand I think

you sure?, be a bit difficult moving the back wheal id imagine, i assumed i needed a stand as i think the pic in the haynes shows the bike off the ground? have you done it on the stand?

[dizzyblonde]

Now for the stupid question, how far out of alignment does it need to be before its noticeable to the rider?



Not as far as you think.....as I found out on Thursday:rolleyes:

...very little

[Bris-Rob]

i have a pad stand dappa if you need to borrow it,


cheers


Rob

[noob-saibot]

You can also measure from center of swingarm pivot point to center of wheel nut, cant you?

[Gene genie]

right just checked then re-set it. tried the string then the measurements that i were getting checked it against axle centre to pivot point centre.
both methods agreed that it was mis-aligned at around 5-6mm.:shock:
i've always set it against the marks on the swingarm, i know they're not perfect but thats what i've always done.:-k
i'm assuming it'll make a difference to the handling but will it be a noticable difference.:smt100

[Dappa D]

i have a pad stand dappa if you need to borrow it,


cheers


Rob

cool top man, i may be in touch mate

[Red Herring]

One of the reasons for doing it on a paddock stand is it keeps more weight on the rear suspension, but don't forget to sit on the bike (or get a mate to) and then spin the wheel looking for tight spots on the chain. Make sure that at the tightest point and with the suspension compressed you still have a little slack in the chain.

As for the alignment bit it's never wise to rely on the factory markings. However once you have checked it and set it straight you can then use the marking to see how far out they are, and then just remember to always have the same variation whenever you adjust the chain.

[Grant66]

Not as far as you think.....as I found out on Thursday:rolleyes:

...very little


What happened? Symptoms? How far out was it? Other comments suggest 6mm is 'acceptable'.

I did mine on the side stand, not easy to do on your own though, I'm still waiting for my 'free' paddock stand to arrive.
To find tight spot I pivoted the bike on the stand to get the rear off the ground, nudged rear round with my foot, if you tape a ruler to the swing arm you can then find the tightest spot relatively easily.
If you want to check the alignment with the bike upright, stick a block of wood under the side stand to get the bike nearly vertical and you can do it all without a paddock stand.

[Bill.Cross]

The issue here is that the rear wheel is loaded on the side stand. That compresses the rear suspension - static sag - and tightens the chain. On a paddock stand, the rear is still loaded. It will be slightly different because the bike is vertical and the stand may not lift at the axle but I don't think such differences could have any significance. I use a paddock stand and it is much easier that way.