View Full Version : Adjusting clutch.
OK I know that I am not the best mechanic in the world so I wanted to do this to show newbies that taking a bike apart isn’t scary...my newly inherited bike had a very tight clutch lever so ......I thought whilst fixing the problem (or trying to ) I would make a record of it whilst following a combination of the Haynes manual and resident experts Sid Squid & Rictus advise.
All numbers refer to the Haynes manual except for 7 & 8 however, mechanics for dummies ie me have now re-written it because it was confusing ... or maybe its just me but here we go...
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9105/dsc7330.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Loose the locknut 1 and turn the adjuster 2 all the way into the clutch lever assembly.
Remove the engine sprocket cover.
This is where I have added a few numbers as the manual was slightly scewy... (or just me...)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6060/dsc7329.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/dsc7329.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img8/dsc7329.jpg/1/)
What isn’t clear in the manual is that you need to loosen 5b and then use 5a to make 6 move, then tighten it up with 5b again.
So in this order........
Loosen 5b to be able to loosen 5a.
Unscrew 5a until it reaches 6. (you do not actually need to screw 6 just hold it in place whilst unscrewing 5a)
Loosen the locknut 3 and turn out the adjusting screw 4 two or three rotations.
From that position, slowly turn the adjuster screw 4 in until it stops.
Turn the adjuster screw 4 out 1\8 rotation (manual says 1\4 Sid Squid advises 1\ 8 then tighten locknut 3.
At this point your clutch lever will not engage (itīs too loose)
7. ensure that the lifter arm is as far down as it will go... 7 is the lifter arm!!
Screw 5a back up... this will move your lever biting point away from the handlbar grip, when you have the approx biting point you want do up 5b so it locks.
Fine tune with 1 & 2 on the lever.
8... GUNK YUCKYY NOT GOOD FOR BIKES L
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8360/clutch.png (http://imageshack.us)
As is very obvious Iīm not a mechanic and if there is anything that isn’t correct in the above please say!
Red Herring
24-02-09, 09:30 PM
Forgive the ignorance but can you define "tight". The adjustment you have shown is how to set up the cable length and to make sure the cam is in the right place for correct operation, but i would read "tight" as stiff in which case you need to look at lubricating the cable and the lever pivot point as well.
ArtyLady
24-02-09, 09:44 PM
Have to say I'm impressed.....I can just about put petrol in mine! ;)
noob-saibot
24-02-09, 09:46 PM
Why does sid squid advise 1/8th of a turn? Sid..
Red Herring
24-02-09, 09:56 PM
Perhaps he's a bit "tight" :D
Dave20046
24-02-09, 10:01 PM
Why does sid squid advise 1/8th of a turn? Sid..
cause it works, that's how I've always done mine.
Great post anna.
Forgive the ignorance but can you define "tight". The adjustment you have shown is how to set up the cable length and to make sure the cam is in the right place for correct operation, but i would read "tight" as stiff in which case you need to look at lubricating the cable and the lever pivot point as well.
Erm, that is actually how you ADJUST the clutch operation, not by the little wheel on the lever, thats to set the free play in the lever.
I will agree about the lubing of the pivot and the cable though.
Good effort Anna...anyway, back to 24
noob-saibot
24-02-09, 10:15 PM
cause it works, that's how I've always done mine.
Great post anna.
Cool yer chickilitos dude, just want to know as thats the only bit of the clutch i never understood...
Dave20046
24-02-09, 10:16 PM
What's allover your chain btw anna? Is that salt?
Looks like scottoiler oil..
Not 100%..
theshed
24-02-09, 11:10 PM
nice bit of info what really impresses me is the way people on this forum help each other and shares their knowledge so even an igmaranus like me can feel that if i just have a go and things fail there will be help there
great
What's allover your chain btw anna? Is that salt?
Itīs chain lube ..."A.R.S. LUBE" ... not that kind you pervs ;)
Itīs not a scott oiler .. YET .. thatīs a fix for another day.
BTW as a side note a common big no no, is some big muscles doing bolts up "super tight" .. unless it requires a set torque itīs not necessary to do bolts up to test your muscles:rolleyes: .. this only strips threads and makes you a numpty!!
Is 6 to be positioned as low as possible and moved up as cable is stretched beyond lever adjuster range?
Cheers
Just done my clutch too. Tried the same method a la squid anna et al...but when I screw in the screw and move it out a tad then adjust the cable tension etc then start up the bike and put it in gear, it just stays disengaged so I end up turning the screw back out about 2 whole turns so that the engine actually does something...like engage with the gears...if that makes sense...:smt104
Dave20046
28-02-09, 07:34 PM
Just done my clutch too. Tried the same method a la squid anna et al...but when I screw in the screw and move it out a tad then adjust the cable tension etc then start up the bike and put it in gear, it just stays disengaged so I end up turning the screw back out about 2 whole turns so that the engine actually does something...like engage with the gears...if that makes sense...:smt104
I wouldn't mess with the screw with the engine on. Did you loosen everything off before touching the screw?
I wouldn't mess with the screw with the engine on. Did you loosen everything off before touching the screw?
I didn't do it whilst the engine was running. Stuff was all loosened prior to adjustment.
Did the adjustment (screwed it in and then out a tad) - fiddled with cable adjusters to tighten cable, started engine, selected first, let out clutch, bike went nowhere.
Turned off engine. Repeated above but unscrewed the little screw a bit further and so on.
Repeated about three time until the gear finally bit...
rictus01
01-03-09, 12:18 AM
Very nice Anna, should help a few folks out.
Cheers Mark.
Is 6 to be positioned as low as possible and moved up as cable is stretched beyond lever adjuster range?
Cheers
I have edited first post to include a better description for this..... go take a look and let me know if it still doesnt make sense.
Thanks Anna great How to
Cheers Steveg
Thanks Anna!
installing new clutch cable tomorrow, very nice to have black and white advice, the job will now be done with ture craftmenship :D
northwind
01-03-09, 06:53 PM
Good write up!
Cool yer chickilitos dude, just want to know as thats the only bit of the clutch i never understood...
Basically, the worm drive turns the pull of the clutch cable into a push on the pushrod, which then moves the clutch plates apart. The screw adjuster adjusts/preloads the pushrod- if it's slack and not contacting the pushrod then there's slack to take up before the pushrod moves, which can lead to drag- the same amount of lever movement gets you less clutch. If it's overtight then the pushrod never quite returns to the neutral position, which can lead to slip- the clutch never quite fully grips
noob-saibot
01-03-09, 11:15 PM
Basically, the worm drive turns the pull of the clutch cable into a push on the pushrod, which then moves the clutch plates apart. The screw adjuster adjusts/preloads the pushrod- if it's slack and not contacting the pushrod then there's slack to take up before the pushrod moves, which can lead to drag- the same amount of lever movement gets you less clutch. If it's overtight then the pushrod never quite returns to the neutral position, which can lead to slip- the clutch never quite fully grips
Aaah...so what is the benefit of 1/8th turn over 1/4? Making sure the clutch plates are fully apart when levers in or what?
Job done! a new cable and tuned adjuster, the clutch feels very nice :D
thanks all
northwind
02-03-09, 08:08 PM
Aaah...so what is the benefit of 1/8th turn over 1/4? Making sure the clutch plates are fully apart when levers in or what?
It's just that it happens to be the right amount :mrgreen:
I wouldn't mess with the screw with the engine on. Did you loosen everything off before touching the screw?
Won't matter at all, the screw just pushes the clutch pushrod in the same way as the lever/worm does.
Dave20046
02-03-09, 08:48 PM
Won't matter at all, the screw just pushes the clutch pushrod in the same way as the lever/worm does.
Ah cheers northy, I never dared! Thought it was safest advice until someone knowledgeable turned up.
northwind
02-03-09, 09:06 PM
Oh yeah, definately.
-Ralph-
29-05-09, 09:25 AM
Cool Anna, I did mine for the first time yesterday, but wish I'd read this as I used 1/4 turn. I don't suppose it matters, the clutch feels fine.
For anyone needing an easy to print version to take out to the garage, exactly the same instructions with pictures are in the workshop manuals, page 18 of manual 2 (periodic maintenance) and they are available here www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm (http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm), buch better that the Haynes manual I believe.
Sir Trev
29-05-09, 11:38 AM
I didn't do it whilst the engine was running. Stuff was all loosened prior to adjustment.
Did the adjustment (screwed it in and then out a tad) - fiddled with cable adjusters to tighten cable, started engine, selected first, let out clutch, bike went nowhere.
Turned off engine. Repeated above but unscrewed the little screw a bit further and so on.
Repeated about three time until the gear finally bit...
You have a problem there by the sounds of it. I've always done it the "Anna Way" (nice summary post!) and it works fine.
When you did up the locknut after turning the rod out a 1/8 turn you did hold the rod still at the same time didn't you? If not it would have moved in with the turning action of the locknut and be way out.
I wentout with me nephew today (he is 11) to adjust the clutch on my bike. I had all theinstructions printed out and then my work phone rungso i had to leave the bike with my nephew in the garden....whe i came back the number 4 screww was completely untightened. i tried for over an hour to find the correct setup but with no luck....could anyone please help?
Many thanks in advance
anyone?please help i need the bike first thing in the morning to get to work!!
BBadger
20-06-10, 05:55 PM
Hey there.
1st Make sure everything else is in place at this end of the clutch.
Now do you mean there is no point where it stops/has resistance when tightening??
It should get to a "stopping" point when just turning with minimal effort...from that point you will want to turn it back between 1/8 and 1/4 of a turn like stated in the op then tighten nut #3.
theshed
20-06-10, 05:55 PM
just follow the guide at the start of this thread step by step it shouldn'd be aq problem,
and if it was only No 4 nut he tightened just slacken it off and go frome there.
or am i missing something ?
rictus01
20-06-10, 05:57 PM
with the nut loose, turn the screw clockwise until it seats (makes contact with the rod behind), then back it off approx 1/8th of a turn and lock in place, that may not be perfect, but will be close enough to work, the available adjustment on the cable will accommodate any minor alterations needed.
Cheers Mark.
I havetried thisbut the clutch still bites when pulled in all the way and the bike wants to move forward...not a happy bunny....
rictus01
20-06-10, 08:11 PM
was this happening before or just since you played with it ?
it was only happening when the bike was getting way too hot hence why i wanted to adjust it.now it is happening all the time for the bike being cold.....
rictus01
20-06-10, 08:18 PM
so this supposes you've adjusted it correctly, have the correct level of oil in it and none of the components are overly worn ? is that correct ?
Yeap, new oil has been used to the correct amount and both the sprockets and the chain are in good cond.....i m really puzzled ....
rictus01
20-06-10, 08:28 PM
OK clutch components was my meaning but do make sure the chain is adjusted correctly and not to tight, check the cable has enough travel (to move the arm), then the worm adjuster pushes the transfer rod (if in doubt remove the 1/8th back off and do it just touching), beyond that you'll need to look at the clutch itself for the problem (other side of the engine), watchout as if you go to far the other way it will result in clutch slip.
other things to look for on the clutch side are notched basket, worn transfer rod, stuck plates, damaged springs, broken spring retaining bolts.
Cheers Mark.
BBadger
20-06-10, 09:10 PM
Quick one....when tightening the #3 nut are you using an open ended or ring spanner while keeping a screwdriver on the adjuster screw so it wont move when tightening?
Yeap, i do that so it wont move back but no luck....
rictus01
21-06-10, 12:44 AM
bump what ?
other things to look for on the clutch side are notched basket, worn transfer rod, stuck plates, damaged springs, broken spring retaining bolts.
have you done this yet?
Adjusted my clutch today, was getting a bit slack at the lever. Getting toward the limits of adjustment at the assembly end. It otherwise works/feels fine, so simply just a new cable required, I assume?
(Sorry for thread hi-jack).
Fluffer
07-03-11, 10:51 AM
using anna & sids guide (good work people) but what is meant by turn the screw until it stops - have spent 2 hrs trying to adjust this thing :( some say stop and back off as soon as it tickles the rod at the back, others 'when it stops' i can keep turning it in with resistance for a while so do i keep going and effectively pushing the rod further in or is that too far? currently i cant get the clutch to disengage at all :(
Thanks
Turn the screw until it makes contact with the rod (light twiddling of the screwdriver between thumb and forefinger is sufficient) then back it off.
Fluffer
07-03-11, 12:14 PM
Well that does it - i've just cheesed the adjuster screw in my umpteenth attempt to get the clutch to disengage... it worked pretty much spot on this morning when i reassembled and all i did was detach the bottom bolt to add on the speedo sensor and from then it was all downhill...
previously clutch was either engaged / not and finding the balance was the trick, now for last couple hours i havent been able to disengage... have i stuck the plates somehow?
Anyone recommend how to source a new adjuster screw?
The weather is so nice and i'd booked the day off to go on the border patrol ride... boo hoo time for the pub i think :oops:
Well that does it - i've just cheesed the adjuster screw in my umpteenth attempt to get the clutch to disengage... it worked pretty much spot on this morning when i reassembled and all i did was detach the bottom bolt to add on the speedo sensor and from then it was all downhill...
previously clutch was either engaged / not and finding the balance was the trick, now for last couple hours i havent been able to disengage... have i stuck the plates somehow?
Anyone recommend how to source a new adjuster screw?
The weather is so nice and i'd booked the day off to go on the border patrol ride... boo hoo time for the pub i think :oops:
Mine was fudged before i got in there to adjust my clutch by the previous owner.... numpty! It was a particular pain though. It looked fine and i would loosen the locking nut with a socket over the whole thing and then use the adjustment screw, get it perfect. Then use the socket to tighten the nut back in to lock my adjustment right. Everytime I did this step it ruined it. After a while and purely by chance of what was at hand, I used an adjustable wrench to tighten it and found that the screw moved with it as it was seized to the threads meaning i would screw the adjuster to the right place and then turn the nut and the screw would go back in with it to the same place everytime!!!! so best to check that hasn't happened to you! It was chronic too, about 6 winds of threads had been flattened over to their side!
In the end I found a long bolt with the same thread and cut it to length and used a hacksaw to make flat head threads. Bosh, jobs a good'un.
federer
01-03-12, 07:21 PM
Just wanted to say thanks for the guide at the beginning of this thread.
I have spent ages fiddling with the clutch adjustment today and have it just how I want it now. Just need to sort out the free play and all will be perfect.
muzikill
26-05-12, 08:22 PM
Bump.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
pie_master
06-09-12, 12:36 PM
Just wanted to say thanks for the guide at the beginning of this thread.
I have spent ages fiddling with the clutch adjustment today and have it just how I want it now. Just need to sort out the free play and all will be perfect.
Ditto - did mine last weekend and it's miles better - thanks Anna / all
Firstly thanks for the guide, secondly did this last night and all was good.
This morning however the bike won't start.
Does the clutch switch thing go from the lever or the worm drive area?
Everything on bike works just won't start. When the starter button is pressed the lights dim so don't think the button is knackered.
Any thoughts?
ChrisCurvyS
25-06-13, 12:11 PM
Firstly thanks for the guide, secondly did this last night and all was good.
This morning however the bike won't start.
Does the clutch switch thing go from the lever or the worm drive area?
Everything on bike works just won't start. When the starter button is pressed the lights dim so don't think the button is knackered.
Any thoughts?
Clutch switch goes from the lever mate - really easy to bypass to check if it's that.
Just pull out the switch which goes into the bottom of the lever joint, pull out the wires and join them (you can always solder them back in if you want to keep the nannying cut-out).
I'm not exactly sure why but before I bypassed mine, it sometimes wouldn't work if the lever adjusment was out.
Sid Squid
25-06-13, 02:02 PM
Do not permanently bypass the clutch switch of a fuel injected bike.
Check you didn't disturb the switch connector when you were adjusting.
ChrisCurvyS
25-06-13, 02:33 PM
Do not permanently bypass the clutch switch of a fuel injected bike.
Check you didn't disturb the switch connector when you were adjusting.
Course - it affects the fuel mapping doesn't it?
Didn't clock that it was a pointy and thus in possession of a little electronic brain. Should leave this advice business to the professionals. :)
It affects the fueling!? Have just got home and it is starting, had a little play with the switch.
My adjustables don't use the switch at all, it now starts without having to pull the lever. Never noticed before as I always pulled the lever.
ChrisCurvyS
25-06-13, 04:40 PM
It affects the fueling!? Have just got home and it is starting, had a little play with the switch.
My adjustables don't use the switch at all, it now starts without having to pull the lever. Never noticed before as I always pulled the lever.
Yeah - Sid will prob cringe at my crude explanation but as I understand it, when it thinks the clutch is pulled in, the ECU changes the fuel mapping as you want different things out of the engine when pulling away etc.
If you bypass the switch, the bike thinks the clutch is pulled in permanently and your fuelling will be different.
Remember reading something in MCN about it being the source of a lot of pub myths about bpassed switches adding extra power - sometimes the altered map can feel more powerful due to steeper torque curves etc.
Ah right.
So if it doesn't use the switch any more, can it be in "clutch in mode" permanently now then?
Can't say I have noticed any difference in the performance.
northwind
25-06-13, 07:07 PM
You didn't disconnect the kickstand switch, did you?
Nope! To be fair I wouldn't have a clue where to start to do that!
Sid Squid
25-06-13, 07:16 PM
Yeah - Sid will prob cringe at my crude explanation
Not at all - you're bang on the money there.
You didn't disconnect the kickstand switch, did you?
:shock: Andy!
Cheers for confirming the explanation Sid,
Any chance you can clarify if I am effectively in "clutch in" mode?
The button is out and bike will start, push button in and bike wot start. They may have swapped the wires round (don't know if that would actually work) on the switch connector.
northwind
25-06-13, 08:06 PM
:shock: Andy!
:smt006Got an email saying a thread i'd subscribed to had a reply. Last posted on it in... 2009 :mrgreen:
Sid Squid
25-06-13, 08:19 PM
Any chance you can clarify if I am effectively in "clutch in" mode?
The button is out and bike will start, push button in and bike wot start. They may have swapped the wires round (don't know if that would actually work) on the switch connector.
By 'button' I take it you mean the clutch switch, yes? If so then it's working properly - when the lever is released it presses on the switch, inhibiting the starter.
If everything is connected and working correctly then the starter lockout relay will only let the starter work when the clutch is pulled, (ie switch released), irrespective of the operation of the other 'safety' switches.
So to answer the question; If it works then it's in 'clutch in' position, whether it's always in 'clutch in' is the question, if it is then it will start and run, but it won't make full power.
Yes the "button" is the switch bit that sticks out and I guess is actuated by the standard lever...
At the moment it sticks out of the housing and stays there as the cnc lever does not go near it.
So in its current position it would be as if the standard lever is just sat there.
If I push the switch in to the housing, as if the lever were being pulled to the bar it won't start.
Does that make sense? If not it's probably because I am 3/4 asleep and borderline passed out!
Either way at last test when I got home it started so I'm happy for now lol
Cheers for the assistance and if I get any more issues tomorrow will re post!
If it starts regardless of whether the clutch lever is pulled in, then the switch is permanently in the "lever pulled in" position or bypassed.
Jambo
Sent from my thingie
Many thanks for this. Just adjusted my clutch on my DL650.
FYI Anna I've copied your post over onto the V-Strom forum giving you credit and a link back to this thread, hope that's ok.
muzikill
13-04-14, 05:13 PM
Holy ressurected thread!
I thought I would add in the following. When making the adjustment up at the gear leaver make sure the gap in the adjuster barrel isnt lined up with the gap in the lever otherwise through use the raggy edge will breakdown the silicon coating on the cable which makes it smooth to use.
Wrong.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/mu3ynuhu.jpg
Correct.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/basyzuju.jpg
As you can see from the first pic misalignment has removed some of it down to the bare wire. Mine wasnt totally misaligned but the adjustable barrel must have been close to the front lever gap enough to cause some abrasion through operation
Jason H
08-07-14, 10:20 AM
Having made use of this a couple of times and having to search for it every time...is it worth making this a sticky as it does get asked quite often.
J
I see the pics dont load anymore, just has an imageshack default logo image?
No one? Can the mods not fix the images?
garynortheast
11-01-15, 09:21 PM
It depends on the picture hosting account of the OP still being active I'm afraid.
Ah damn, ok. Think I figured out where I went wrong...in my manual there is no 5a/5b...but anyways, will try the adjustment again tonight.
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