Used Yoshimura cams vs cam swap

[TOLAROS]

I've read all about cam swap and I want your opinions about this one:
My Sv 650s model 1999 has 54000miles.This means my cams have done a bit of work.
For future cam swap I can get used Yoshi cams(intake+exhaust) for 300 USDollars. Direct drop-in.
Also for 250 USD new 03+ intake cams and do the cam swap.
What would you suggest?

They say Yoshi are mid rpm oriented.
But :

Mid -oriented with loss at high rpm?
Mid-oriented with no gain at high rpm?
Mid-oriented with small gain at high rpm?

Every opinion is welcome!
:):):)

[NedSVS]

I'd be very tempted to try the Yoshi cams at that price. I have done the 03+ cam swap and I like the way it widens the useful rev range as you can hold onto a gear for a bit longer. In the end you are not going to make a massive improvement in peak power whatever tuning you do to your SV and even a 15 year old IL4 600 sports bike will be faster. For me it is all about the way it delivers the power that matters. If you go for the 03+ cam swap you need to know that the timing marks for the original inlet cams when moved to the exhaust side will be all wrong. To get around this problem you simply align the original cam lobe peak to a reference point (say gasket face of cam cover) them swap the cams and make sure the lobe peak is still pointing to the same reference point. Sounds very crude, but it does work because even one tooth out on the cam chain to cam sprocket is very noticeable.

[TOLAROS]

I'd be very tempted to try the Yoshi cams at that price. I have done the 03+ cam swap and I like the way it widens the useful rev range as you can hold onto a gear for a bit longer. In the end you are not going to make a massive improvement in peak power whatever tuning you do to your SV and even a 15 year old IL4 600 sports bike will be faster. For me it is all about the way it delivers the power that matters. If you go for the 03+ cam swap you need to know that the timing marks for the original inlet cams when moved to the exhaust side will be all wrong. To get around this problem you simply align the original cam lobe peak to a reference point (say gasket face of cam cover) them swap the cams and make sure the lobe peak is still pointing to the same reference point. Sounds very crude, but it does work because even one tooth out on the cam chain to cam sprocket is very noticeable.

Ned I am also thinking that it would be better to use cams that have worked the same time(Yoshis) than to mix a pair of old (54000miles) with a pair of new.
I also admit that it would sound good to tell friends "my bike has yoshi cams,get lost R1! " :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Seriously now I wouldn't like to lose top end.
With your cam swap did you rejet the bike afterwards?What differences did you see in top end power?

edit:LOSE top end,not use...

[Sid Squid]

If you do try the Yosh cams let us know how you get on, I'm wondering how they compare with the Curvy/Pointy cam swap.

[TOLAROS]

If you do try the Yosh cams let us know how you get on, I'm wondering how they compare with the Curvy/Pointy cam swap.
And I thought i'd get info from here! :mrgreen::mrgreen:

Sure Sid,I will.I think I may get them after all.
So far I have installed:

i)Full Yoshimura TRS stainless with titanium canister,
ii)BMC desnorkeled air filter.

I think with the cams I'll have the coolest SV in Greece

Until then why don't you guys help us? Click the signature !!
Sv village is international and needs everyone!

[NedSVS]

Seriously now I wouldn't like to lose top end.
With your cam swap did you rejet the bike afterwards?What differences did you see in top end power?


I didn't need to rejet as the cams worked great with the Factory Pro stage 2 kit I have fitted (using BMC RS filter - the open topped one). I haven't had the bike dynoed so can't quote figures (I've heard 2 to 3 bhp is typical gain). Like I said, it's the increase in useful rev range I like, especially when I do a track day.

[TOLAROS]

I didn't need to rejet as the cams worked great with the Factory Pro stage 2 kit I have fitted (using BMC RS filter - the open topped one). I haven't had the bike dynoed so can't quote figures (I've heard 2 to 3 bhp is typical gain). Like I said, it's the increase in useful rev range I like, especially when I do a track day.
The previous owner had installed the Factory pro kit with a desnorkeled BMC street air filter.
After my accident though(woman-driver-violates-STOP-sign...) and the installation of Yoshimura TRS Full Stainless with titanium canister exhaust the bike misfires after 5000rpm at full throttle.
So I shipped the bike to Athens to my really good mechanic with one simple order:
MAKE IT KICK ****!:smt071
Told him to use either the factory pro needles or to experiment with mikuni ones till he finds the best.
Besides the cam swap will take place in automn
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unless of course I 'm in the mood to perform it during Easter holidays!


edit:You still don't reveal if you lost at high rpm...

[yorkie_chris]

The JHS cams I have are higher lift than stock, also higher duration but I have not measured this, just eyeballed.

They appear to smooth out the mids and also add to the top end.

Give them a try, but what are the lifts? Some are too high left for stock valve springs. JHS advise their stage 3 cams are used with stronger valve springs.

[Robw#70]

I thought the Yosh carby cams basically the same as injected oe cams?