Clutch drag, reasons/solutions?

[nicky-jano]

Hi my year 2000 SV650S has a clutch drag.
I bought it as a bike that has been stood for a few months, since Octoberish.
We went out on a ride 2 weeks ago and it was fine, the biting point of the clutch seemed a bit far away but that was all.
The bike got ragged a bit and later on we noticed that even with the clutch leaver pulled all the way in the bike would still creep forward.
I've just changed the cable for a new one and it has made no difference.
While in stationary position it makes a clunking noise when you put it into first, my sprocket is also getting worn so it's definately not working right.
But when I'm riding the gear box is smooth and there's no sticking or jumping out of gear, the clutch isn't slipping either.
What could be causing this?
If the clutch it's self was worn it would be slipping and not changing gear properly, so could the plates be warped or something?
Has anyone has anything like this before and if so what did you do to solve it?
Thanks - Nicola.

[Biker Biggles]

Do a search of Sid Squids posts here for "clutch adjustment"and you should find stuff on how to adjust the actuator(worm gear) by the front sprocket.

[embee]

Second the "Sid Squid adjustment" advice.

Also check that it's not overfilled with oil. Check it when the engine is hot, stop the engine and wait a couple of minutes, hold bike upright and check the window. Mid way between max-min is ideal.

The oil type can have an effect too.

Check the worm drive at the bottom end of the cable is in good condition too. Very simple to check, you can do it before adjusting the mechanism according to the Squid. Loosen the cable right off, undo the 2 bolts holding the worm drive in place, take it off and unwind the housing from the lever part. It should be well greased and all the balls should be present. If it's rusty/worn, then replace.

[dual-power sv]

if its not the worm drive, then the next thing to check would be the plates to see if they were warped and also the clutch basket and hub for notches and wear

[Baph]

My CG125 had clutch drag on the day it sheered it's sump plug & dropped all it's oil, ceasing the engine whilst riding at 70mph. :shock:

The two probably aren't related though, check your clutch adjustment & oil level. :)

[nicky-jano]

Worm drive already correctly adjusted when I installed the new clutch cable earlier, guess that'll be clutch plates to check next?

Anybody got a fiche or manual for the clutch? It'd be much appreciated :)

[dual-power sv]

i think im right in saying the curveys have a separte clutch cover so its alot easier to inspect the clutch, you can get away with putting the bike on its side stand and all the oil should run to one side of the engine meaning you dont have to drop the oil to check and change the clutch, but i think you mite end up replacing the basket or hub in this case

[nicky-jano]

Right, we adjusted the lifter today and cleaned the pushrod again.
This made no difference.
Am going to take the clutch apart on wednesday, what sort of things should I look out for and how do you tell if the lifter is worn?
Thanks - Nicola.

[dual-power sv]

Look for the general wear on the friction plare (will be obvious if they are worn out).
On the steer counterplates look for a discolouring as though they have been subjected to alot of heat.
Put the plates on a flat surface and you'll beable to tell if theyre wrapped.

another thing to check is the runnings surface when the plates spline to the hub and the clutch basket, check these to see how smooth they are and if there are notches then thiss will have cauzed the draging