Is my chain foobared?

[paiste]

On the ride home from work last night the sv jumped out of second gear. Being the first time this has happened I sh!t myself and thought the chain had snapped!! It hadn't, but when I got to the next set of traffic lights I checked the tension and it was as slack as a very slack thing. I only checked and adjusted the tension last week, so I thought that I'd not tensioned the spindle nuts up correctly. This wasn't the case and when I got home re-tensioned the chain. The trouble is when it's tensioned correctly at the tightest point, at the slackest point its really loose.
I think I know the answer! But is it safe to ride to work?
What chain would be the best to go for? I don't know the difference between o ring and x ring. I have read other posts who recommend b and c, but have also seen these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-SV650-02-07-O-Ring-and-Chain-Sprocket-Kit_W0QQitemZ350175252483QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mot orcycle_Parts?hash=item350175252483&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318
Would it be a false economy to fit this?
Thanks.

[dizzyblonde]

that chain and sprocket kit is fine.
Your chain shouldn't be so far out all over I don't think, and if you've re-tensioned it so close together, that would point that it is foobarred to me, but what do I know. I clean and oil my chains regularly, and on my black SV its only been adjusted twice in the two years I've had the bike, it never needs doing(don't know if thats a good point or the higher gearing) it gets thrashed on some good long distances too

[plowsie]

Sounds like you hit a false neutral...

Yeah, not uncommon for chains to wear unevenly, how slack is slack though? Like measurement wise?

[paiste]

Sounds like you hit a false neutral...

Yeah, not uncommon for chains to wear unevenly, how slack is slack though? Like measurement wise?

Probably about 40mm, not far from touching the swingarm!!

[plowsie]

40 travel?

20 either side? Or 40 up and 40 down?

[the_lone_wolf]

On the ride home from work last night the sv jumped out of second gear.
my K6 did this if i was pressing on a bit, change to second was fine, then a second or so after accelerating hard it would pop back into neutral

[paiste]

40 travel?

20 either side? Or 40 up and 40 down?

I'm being a bit thick, but I'll explain as I understand :???:

When you look at the chain, The lower part that is under the swingarm, the 40mm is measured from the chain in it's resting position upwards, therefore nearly touching the underside of the swingarm.
I think I'm gonna change the cahin and sprockets anyway.
Is it easy to do and what chain tool would I need to get?
The only thing I've done before is my own servicing and dropping out the forks and changing the oil.
Thanks again.:)

[Stig]

Your chain is knackered. Change it now. And do not forget to replace the sprockets at the same time.

[fizzwheel]

The trouble is when it's tensioned correctly at the tightest point, at the slackest point its really loose.

If you have a tight spot like that, the chains probably on its way out. Also IIRC 40mm of slack like you describe is to much.

Its hard to tell without seeing your chain in the flesh but yours doesnt sound like it has a lot of life left in it. I'd be inclined to change it and the sprockets.

If you're not sure pop to a garage and get a mechanic to give you a 2nd opinion on it.

[plowsie]

I'm being a bit thick, but I'll explain as I understand :???:

When you look at the chain, The lower part that is under the swingarm, the 40mm is measured from the chain in it's resting position upwards, therefore nearly touching the underside of the swingarm.
I think I'm gonna change the cahin and sprockets anyway.
Is it easy to do and what chain tool would I need to get?
The only thing I've done before is my own servicing and dropping out the forks and changing the oil.
Thanks again.:)
When I say travel, I mean from resting position upwards, I think actually, you can't pull ya chain downwards, so maybe I'm been thick :lol:

But yeah change that mate.

[Stig]

I would suggest, if you do not have one, to get a Haines Manual (or similar) it will give you simple to follow instructions on basic maintenance such as changing the sprockets and chain. Far better I think than listening to the several different variations you are likely to get on here.

[Bill.Cross]

I'm sur eyou need to change your chain and sprokets but for future reference the Haynes manual is very clear about how to check if the chain is within wear limits.

I wonder if chains can show marked tight and slack spots if the rear wheel is not properly aligned? Anyone have a view? Or even better, know?

[kwak zzr]

"foobared" yep sounds it.

[sinbad]

I have read other posts who recommend b and c, but have also seen these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-SV650-02-07-O-Ring-and-Chain-Sprocket-Kit_W0QQitemZ350175252483QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mot orcycle_Parts?hash=item350175252483&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318
Would it be a false economy to fit this?
Thanks.

Anyone know if that's a continuous (swing-arm out job) chain?

[paiste]

Anyone know if that's a continuous (swing-arm out job) chain?

I don't know but I've phoned them up and ordered it along with a chain extraction riveter tool thingy :rolleyes:

[Drew Carey]

Nope its a soft link chain, ordered one myself should be here friday. Its a DID chain so all good.

[thedonal]

Yep- my chain is in the same state- will be getting a new c & s kit at the end of the month- going for DID this time, instead of Tsubaki. Also changing lube- have been advised my my mechanic that I'm better off with an oil based lube, rather than Wurth.

Got some new bolts for the chain adjuster now too- allen socket, rather than cheese head as they have deeper sockets. Stainless too. Blinding.

[BanditPat]

Aye get a new chain. What does the sprocket look like? It isn't necessary to change them both. Last I changed my chain was when i got my bike and the sprocket was like new so i just got a new chain.

[plowsie]

Rule of thumb, change them together.

[BanditPat]

Its not necessary to change a sprocket when you change a chain. If you change the sprocket then you change the chain because the chain wears into the sprocket.

[Stig]

Aye get a new chain. What does the sprocket look like? It isn't necessary to change them both. Last I changed my chain was when i got my bike and the sprocket was like new so i just got a new chain.

Unless you have a plastic chain, the sprockets tend to wear consistently with the chain. Even if your sprockets look reasonable they will have worn considerably against new sprocket. Putting a new chain on old sprockets is a sure fire way to decrease the life cycle of the new chain. On top of this the new chain will wear into the old sprockets more thus shortening the life of the sprockets. A worn sprocket will wear out the chain quicker. So effectively you will have one wearing the other out. For the cost of new sprockets, it is best to replace both sprockets when fitting a new chain.

[plowsie]

I never said, it was or wasn't necessary, but whats more expensive, two chains and one sprocket if you need to replace midlife of new chain you stumped yaself. However new chain and sprockets your saving hassle time and money...

[BanditPat]

I've done 13000 miles on this chain and sprocket it was a new chain and an old sprocket, my chain with minimum attention is still fine as is the sprocket. Basic mechanical principles are with me on the changing of sprockets

[plowsie]

Do you ride a bandit?

:lol:

[BanditPat]

Unfortunately lol

[plowsie]

Says it all ;) :D

[BanditPat]

It was cheap as chips what i was i supposed to say

[petevtwin650]

Been here before. Almost certainly a chain will outlast the sprockets. Some premium chains come with a 12,000 mile guarantee. Sprockets will wear before that. We had over 30k out of a chain without a scottoiler. That was 3 fronts and 2 rears IIRC. Under the "rule" I'd have put new chains on each time adding about 150 quid to the bill and a lot of extra hassle. Certainly I would put new sprockets on at the same time as a new chain unless they were virtually new.

[paiste]

The sprockets do look fine, hardly any wear. I have bought both chain and sprockets though as I don't know the history of the bike and when they were last changed. Gives me a bit more peace of mind.
While I'm feeling adventurous, I need to check my valve clearances and balance the carbs. I feel I ought to invest in a haynes manual!
I phoned my local stealer ( Drayton Croft) to book my MOT and ask about checking the valve clearances and balancing the carbs but they weren't interested unless I had a full 16,000 mile service :confused:. The guy said they only work on a point to point service. WTF??
I ought to learn to do these things myself anyway. The "expert" at the local stealers is probably some young scrote who is clueles anyway, or am I being too cynical?!

[paiste]

Got my chain and sprocket delivered today from DK http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-SV650-02-07-O-Ring-and-Chain-Sprocket-Kit_W0QQitemZ350175252483QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mot orcycle_Parts?hash=item350175252483&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

I thought I was getting an O ring chain, but they have sent me a DID525vx X ring premium.:confused:

I have just got myself a bargain? Oh and wht is the difference between o and x ring, do they have different applications, or just one is more expensive than the other?

[Drew Carey]

Mine is the same, just phoned DK and he said "Is it your Birthday?" As apparently the X Ring is better and they sell at £10 more than the O ring......so as per paiste1 can anyone confirm if the X is better?