View Full Version : Sump plug washer - where from?
pencil shavings
16-03-09, 05:38 PM
just drained the oil, but the sump plug washer is FUBARD. where can I get another one? just go to a bike shop as ask for one? are they universal? also that goes for the filter removal tool, are they universal/should they be avaliable from a bike shop? cheers :)
The washer isn't completely necessary, the bolt will form a tight seal from about half way up the thread. The washer just serves to stop vibrations making the bolt come loose I suppose. But you can get them cheap enough from your local dealership.
The removal tool is universal (unless you opt for the suzuki one - but then it's universally suzuki). But there's a couple of different types of tool that work with the SV.
Baph's top tip, when you're next buying a filter, take it to the shop you intend to get the removal tool from. Then you'll know if it fits. :)
pencil shavings
16-03-09, 05:47 PM
cheers :)
I will take the filter along with me tomorrow
Alpinestarhero
16-03-09, 05:47 PM
My dad puts a little bit of PTFE tape (the same stuff plumbers use) on my sump plug and crush washer to ensure a good seal. You could well do this to form a seal in place of the crush washer (the clutch cover bolts on my bike also all have PTFE tape to prevent oil seepage)...but really, its best to have a crush washer. take the bolt along to a vehicle supplies shop, they should be able to find you one. AFAIK, they are usualy copper or some other soft metal
thefallenangel
16-03-09, 05:50 PM
i'd imagine crush washers are universal. But the PFTE is a good idea espically for bleed nipples too.
My dad puts a little bit of PTFE tape (the same stuff plumbers use) on my sump plug and crush washer to ensure a good seal.
I do this on the bleed nipples, but there's far less chance of oil running down the threads, so I don't bother with the sump plug.
I think my bike is still on the original crush washer - after 37k miles. Though I wouldn't recommend anyone else do the same for the obvious reason that the service schedule says otherwise - and probably for a good reason.
Jester666
16-03-09, 07:19 PM
The crush washer is named that for a reason. It crushes to make a tight seal. If you try to do the bolt up without a new washer you run the risk of stripping the thread.
It must be changed every time you undo the sump bolt. Once it is crushed it cannot be re-used.
Get them from www.sparesdirect.co.uk (http://www.sparesdirect.co.uk)
scottjames
16-03-09, 10:28 PM
as jester says should be changed every time, for the price of them bout 70p its not worth the risk of over tighening your sump. :D
just drained the oil, but the sump plug washer is FUBARD. where can I get another one? just go to a bike shop as ask for one? are they universal? also that goes for the filter removal tool, are they universal/should they be avaliable from a bike shop? cheers :)
The Champion filter has a small hex than the generic Hi flo.I agree about using a new crush washer, although I still use the original and use a torque wrench to tighten
Jester666
16-03-09, 11:03 PM
It's all well and good using a torque wrench but the washer is still crushed and should be replaced (as you said but don't do? :rolleyes:) every time.
70p for a washer or how much for a re-thread of the sump? Easy option I think!
It's all well and good using a torque wrench but the washer is still crushed and should be replaced (as you said but don't do? :rolleyes:) every time.
70p for a washer or how much for a re-thread of the sump? Easy option I think!
I said I agreed with you.:rolleyes::rolleyes:. Isn't the crush simply to to ensure the seal? If it is a reused washer but doesn't leak, and is at the correct torque, is there still a problem?
Jester666
16-03-09, 11:36 PM
Once used the washer has crushed so the next time you tighten it up it has no more give. This can lead to a leak (Trust me, I learned the had way!! :rolleyes::lol:) from the sump plug.
I use a fresh one everytime now just to be safe.
I have never replaced the crush washer on any motorcycle I have ever owned or indeed ever had a plug come loose or had oil leak from this area. But then I do not follow the laid down rules regarding this washer or indeed the plug.
First of all, I never ever use a torque wrench when tightening steel bolts into alloy. My rule of thumb is to pinch it tight using a socket and then a tiny pinch more. Steel into alloy mean the torque setting is never going to be high. The steel threads would just sheer the alloy. I am not prepared to risk stripping alloy by trusting tools which could be out of calibration. Even my own. I have never replaced the washer and it has never leaked. Maybe one day it will leak. If it happens I will then replace it. But after nearly 25 years of riding motorcycles I have never had one leak yet. I wonder if it has something to do with not using a torque wrench and over tightening?
The book says to replace the washer after each sump plug removal. For the cost of the washer I guess there is no reason not to. I just don't bother and have never had any issue with not doing so.
Drew Carey
17-03-09, 09:06 AM
Whether people do it or not, surely for 70p its worth it? I change it every time, cause to be honest, I dont want the hassle if something does go wrong so I follow the manual and what others have said on here.
I have never replaced the crush washer on any motorcycle I have ever owned or indeed ever had a plug come loose or had oil leak from this area. But then I do not follow the laid down rules regarding this washer or indeed the plug.
First of all, I never ever use a torque wrench when tightening steel bolts into alloy.
+1. For the sump, I tighten by hand, then a little tap with a socket so it's nice & snug.
First of all, I never ever use a torque wrench when tightening steel bolts into alloy. My rule of thumb is to pinch it tight using a socket and then a tiny pinch more. Steel into alloy mean the torque setting is never going to be high. The steel threads would just sheer the alloy. I am not prepared to risk stripping alloy by trusting tools which could be out of calibration. Even my own. I have never replaced the washer and it has never leaked. Maybe one day it will leak. If it happens I will then replace it. But after nearly 25 years of riding motorcycles I have never had one leak yet. I wonder if it has something to do with not using a torque wrench and over tightening?
.
I use 3 diff torque wrenches. two Teng(light and medium) and one from Norbar. The 2 teng wrenches are almost new and I had the Norbar recalibrated last year. I haven'r stripped a thread since I was an apprentice toolmaker, almost 40 years ago. I believe in using tools for the job and that that the earth is round.. ;)
punyXpress
17-03-09, 11:03 AM
Could always anneal the washer, so effectively get a new one for free if not otherwise mutilated. Also doubt if the torque needed to crush a washer would not rip the thread out of the alloy.
STRAMASHER
17-03-09, 11:10 AM
Also better to leave the old washer in place and use that than not have one at all as this can strip the thread on the sump. Left the washer in situ loads of times.
I just replace with a dowty washer as they are free for me. Finally got a suzuki filter wrench/cap from the local stealer instead of years of tapping off with a screwdriver. (Dealers always put the filter on too tight for my liking). I tighten it by hand then a bit extra with the cap socket.
I use 3 diff torque wrenches. two Teng(light and medium) and one from Norbar. The 2 teng wrenches are almost new and I had the Norbar recalibrated last year. I haven'r stripped a thread since I was an apprentice toolmaker, almost 40 years ago. I believe in using tools for the job and that that the earth is round.. ;)
Apprentice tool maker. Well that would put you in a different bracket to 98% of the rest of us wouldn't it. I stand by what I said though. If a bolt is going into the alloy engine casing, I am not going to trust a tool. I will trust what I can feel. Tight and then a nip is all that is ever going to be required. This would also take out 'user error' as in the wrong torque setting applied before starting. :wink:
punyXpress
17-03-09, 11:17 AM
Apprentice tool maker. Well that would put you in a different bracket to 98% of the rest of us wouldn't it. I stand by what I said though. If a bolt is going into the alloy engine casing, I am not going to trust a tool. I will trust what I can feel. Tight and then a nip is all that is ever going to be required. This would also take out 'user error' as in the wrong torque setting applied before starting. :wink:
apprentice toolmaker, almost 40 years ago.
Surely ejohnh's apprenticeship is nearing its end?
apprentice toolmaker, almost 40 years ago.
Surely ejohnh's apprenticeship is nearing its end?
lol!!,,, I've been, and done, a lot of things since those days.. that was funny puny - still giggling about it.. Missus is looking at me funny too,,
pencil shavings
17-03-09, 12:07 PM
just gone at got it, cost £1.
another quick Q, I think I saw this on here, but can the dirty oil be used in the scotoiler? cheers
BoltonSte
17-03-09, 12:09 PM
They cost a quid each these days? That's a proper p155take that is.
Drew Carey
17-03-09, 12:12 PM
Yup Scotoiler can be filled with old oil.
Yup Scotoiler can be filled with old oil.
I'd feel uneasy about using dirty oil for any sort of lubrication.
Drew Carey
17-03-09, 08:38 PM
Lots of people have been using it for ages on here. Only an issue if you have lots of debri coming out of the engine, in which case you should be more concerned than just chain lubrication.
Lots of people have been using it for ages on here. Only an issue if you have lots of debri coming out of the engine, in which case you should be more concerned than just chain lubrication.
Well I wouldn't use dirty oil for any sort of lubrication purposes. It's a personal choice I guess.
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