View Full Version : Couple of chain & sprockets change questions
Dave20046
19-03-09, 09:03 PM
Right didn't dare hijack mr preston's thread as it looks like he's having a bad time but could someone just answer me a couple of questions?
(I'm on a 1999 naked)
1. what size is the front sprocket nut?
2. How do you get to it? - the clutch cable and bit it's attached to seem to be in the way.
Bonus question:
The sprockets I'm taking off are 15 - 45 , the sprocket kit I've been supplied is 15 - 44 . Am I right in thinking that one tooth will make negligible difference? And out of interest what would that difference be; acceleration or top end?
Cheers guys! :smt106
Gene genie
19-03-09, 09:06 PM
i think its 30mm, and you need to remove the clutch cable and mechanism. take a piccy of it before you disassemble it dave.
charlie13
19-03-09, 09:12 PM
front sprocket nut is 32mm on a curvy, i'd also thoroughly recommend a 24in breaker bar to get it off.
44 on the rear will mean slightly higher gearing compared to 45 therefore (in theory) higher top speed but slighty less agressive acceleration
edit - think 44 rear is standard number of teeth isn't it????
davepreston
19-03-09, 09:14 PM
+1 with the photo
, clutch mech is easy two 10mm bolts, dont try and take the front sprocket off without a back wheel on (it will just spin )
Dave20046
19-03-09, 09:21 PM
Cheers for that guys, I've left the back wheel on (loosened the spindle) waiting for tomorrow when I can borrow a breaker bar and 32mm socket (infact I might have one I'll run down and check in a sec).
I've already took a photo but why are you recommending it, so I know how it was before I started? Cheers dave and genie I'll get that clutch mech off.
RE the rear sprocket, will I notice it at all? (yeah that number of teeth should be std. I ordered std. thinking my kit was standard.)
I'm just asking because i (think) I like my bike how it was set up before, I don't know any different as that's how I got the bike but will I notice it or will it improve it or make it worse? Should I try get it swapped at the shop tomorrow?
Cheers everyone
davepreston
19-03-09, 09:26 PM
I've already took a photo but why are you recommending it, so I know how it was before I started? Cheers dave and genie I'll get that clutch mech off.
Cheers everyone
so you dont look like a twit when you have to come on here begging for someone to tell you how to fix the simple thing (see my thread)
Count the teeth on old, and compare to new :)
Dave20046
19-03-09, 09:45 PM
Count the teeth on old, and compare to new :)
that's how I know the old one is 45 and the new is 44 lol.
Bit ****ed off because (admittedly against all odds) the chain I've just ripped off is in suprisingly good condition (under the crap and surface rust). No tight spots, it's not loose or allover the place and it's not rattly. I was guessing it was the OEM one (bikes only done 8k) but in light of the sprockets being changed it must be a new one.
AndyBrad
20-03-09, 12:52 PM
45 is standard naked 44 is standard faired.
Dave20046
20-03-09, 02:19 PM
cheers andy, I better make sure he's not sold me the wrong chain too! :(
110 links naked anyone know how many for the faired? I'm guessing it's shorter.
108 links for the faired chain - same for curvy or pointy i believe
Dave20046
20-03-09, 06:43 PM
Andy you really are a ****ing hero aren't you!
The kriega stuff, the oring, mentioning the possibility they'd given me a faired's chain and sprocket kit (despite repeatedly saying naked ! grrr) and I've just this moment been handed the mastercylinder!
My mum was a bit embarassed cause the postie handed it her and said 'post for the captain! ' . poor confused old lady.
They had given me the wrong chain btw, because you mentioned it I managed to pick it up before they closed. Thankyou!
Dave20046
20-03-09, 07:59 PM
On the link when you're joining the chain it definitely goes; link side plate orings, slide through to join, orings,final plate (with lots of lube through out). Doesn't it?
I can't see it working anyway just seems a bit thick to join together.
And it definitely doesn;t matter which way round the orings go does it?
ta
maviczap
20-03-09, 08:10 PM
You might need to press the link rivet through the final plate, ie press it through.
I had to, put a new chain & spocks on mine last week
Have you got a chain rivet tool? You can do it without, but I bought one off Ebay to do it properly.
Don't forget to bend the locking tab washer on the front sprocket away, otherwise you'll find it difficult to undo the nut!
Mine undone nice and easy with an 18in breaker bar
Dave20046
20-03-09, 08:17 PM
You might need to press the link rivet through the final plate, ie press it through.
I had to, put a new chain & spocks on mine last week
Have you got a chain rivet tool? You can do it without, but I bought one off Ebay to do it properly.
Don't forget to bend the locking tab washer on the front sprocket away, otherwise you'll find it difficult to undo the nut!
Mine undone nice and easy with an 18in breaker bar
Cheers magiczap just wanted a second opinion before I attempt anything. I'lll gently clamp it together with small moleys. Yep nipped to the local garage to borrow their rivet tool, 24inch breaker and a 32mil socket (meh they owed me since they almost left me in the **** with a too short chain)...although I didn't get the 32mil socket coz when I asked for it he said 'you have it'...oops looks like I lost that one. Just got back from halfrauds after buying them a new one. £7!
Cheers! I was hoping to try and do an idiots guide to chain swapping for the .org took all the photos along the way until I realised I was the idiot. I'll tell you what I did later - if I dare!
maviczap
20-03-09, 08:22 PM
I had an old broken chain link tool which was prefect for pressing the pins through. You don't have to be too gentle 525 chain is quite robust, unlike push bike chains.
xXBADGERXx
20-03-09, 08:23 PM
Another handy tip is to slip a plank of wood in the spokes of the rear wheel and rest it on top of the swingarm , if you have a stubborn nut to undo the spoke will jam against the plank and stop the wheel rotating , make sure the wood has no nails etc in it so the paintwork and swinger don`t get damaged or scratched :)
Dave20046
20-03-09, 09:55 PM
Cheers the both of you *think* I'm past that bit now, does this (http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff246/dave20046/bleh2.jpg) look anywhere near rivetted enough?
Anyway got a stupid (I hope) question, could anyone tell me if it is right that the sprocket I've removed is thicker than the one I'm about to put on?
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff246/dave20046/bleh.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff246/dave20046/bleh1.jpg
Is that just a spacer? IS it supposed to be on my new one or is it transferable?
hmm
dizzyblonde
20-03-09, 10:00 PM
one on the right should be perfectly acceptable. Think the one on the left is an OEM one.
Dave20046
20-03-09, 10:02 PM
wicked cheers dizzy. Can i just plonk it on then?
Doesn't look too bad to say it's factory fitted does it?
Let the bodging...resume! :smt038:smt070
ps..anyone else find it worrying I had to ask if it's rivetted enough? :razz: I've just never done it/seen it done before.
dizzyblonde
20-03-09, 10:04 PM
looks alright to me, but I'm not the person to be saying its ok.
Dave20046
20-03-09, 10:12 PM
looks alright to me, but I'm not the person to be saying its ok.
cheers, didn't expect anyone to give me a defintie answer without seeing it for obvious reasons anyway tbh I'll just bring some gaffa tape with me next time I ride it :D
xXBADGERXx
20-03-09, 10:22 PM
Rivetting looks fine , don`t overdo it you just need to peen the heads over enough so that the side plate won`t come off or wear it`s way through , does the link move freely without binding ?
Dave20046
20-03-09, 10:25 PM
Rivetting looks fine , don`t overdo it you just need to peen the heads over enough so that the side plate won`t come off or wear it`s way through , does the link move freely without binding ?
haha funny you should say that when I was poking the prongs through I had a minute of panic where the link was really stiff but I just pushed them through a bit further and it was sorted, was kicking myself like crazy though.
now it's rivetted it feels only very very very slightly tighter..but that could just be in my head.
xXBADGERXx
20-03-09, 10:37 PM
As long as it isn`t overly tight then it will be fine , the chain only moves a little anyway on it`s axis over the big sprocket and a bit more over the smaller one , they don`t go through 90 degrees or anything so if it is fine at about 45 degrees and not tight with a nice free movement it will be fine . I did mine last September and it has held up nicely (has whole body pressed against a plank here)
Dave20046
20-03-09, 11:44 PM
lol sweeet.
Just got in from the garage now, knackered up at 6 this morning for work got back at 5pm and been in the garage til now. Bikes a whole load mroe together though. Just gotta tighten up the back wheel and tension chain and work out how the hell this hugger fits on, seems to be extremely close to the can. Put a R clip in the front left calipr (don't let me forget!) and it's rideable. Got some new pads, brake lines and a mastercylinder to fit though on sunday night.
Oh by the way does it matter that I've lost my loctite? :-dd (rear sprocket studs and front sprocket nut spring to mind)
Night all! Cheers for your helps :thumbsup:
xXBADGERXx
21-03-09, 07:31 AM
Don`t forget the R clip (there you have been reminded)
Dave20046
22-03-09, 02:38 AM
thankyou remembered it and took it out for a spin. all feels nice apart from the brakes...they would be nice to have.
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