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Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:19 PM
i want to do a GSXR front end on my curvy and need a lot of help :P and before you say it i have spent all day 2day reading posts and chating to people like YC for help but i just want to make sure i know what bits i need

i want to be able to still use the stearing lock. keep the same headlight and gagues. Also use the stock sv speedo on the front. also i want to use radial brakes if i can

the forks that i want to stick on to my 2002 curvy are USD GSXR1000 K1 forks (yer the gold ones)

now i know that i need the front end like bearings yokes wheel radial brakes fender axel ect but i am not sure what i need to stick the GSXR1000 K1 forks on to my curvy and also still have the steering lock working

dose anyone know what bits i need from what bike and year so that i can do this


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Standed fork problem i have

i have rebulit my forks they are standed with standed pre load adjusters on them but now that they are on the bike when ridding and braking the travle that i have is stupid the bottom york is nearly hitting the seals ..

any one got any ideas

Bibio
10-05-09, 10:35 PM
for a start you cannot use radial brakes on the GSXR100 K1-2 front end... unless there is a magic kit somewhere...

you are putting the exact same forks i have on your curvy... there are only 2 types of callipers you can use.. GSXR1000 k1-2 6 pots or GSXR600/750 K0-K3 the centre to centre bolt hole fixings are 62mm

top yoke is 50mm bottom yoke is 54mm centres are 207mm offset is 32mm..

i guess if you want to keep your steering lock you will need a srad top yoke.. best man to ask would be northwind...

there was something else about the bearings/stem being different but i think that was for fitting the srad USD forks..

have you thought about using TL or bussa forks.. reason i'm saying is that the wheels are easier to get a hold of and cheaper..

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:38 PM
for a start you cannot use radial brakes on the GSXR100 K1-2 front end... unless there is a magic kit somewhere...

you are putting the exact same forks i have on your curvy... there are only 2 types of callipers you can use.. GSXR1000 k1-2 6 pots or GSXR600/750 K0-K3 the centre to centre bolt hole fixings are 62mm

top yoke is 50mm bottom yoke is 54mm centres are 207mm offset is 32mm..

i guess if you want to keep your steering lock you will need a srad top yoke.. best man to ask would be northwind...

there was something else about the bearings/stem being different but i think that was for fitting the srad USD forks..

can i see a pic of your bike also what bits did you need and what bike/year did you get them from

im not that botherd about radial brakes

i didnt think about TL or busa forks but i spsose i could use them if it easyer and they are USD (can you get them in gold)

Bibio
10-05-09, 10:41 PM
scroll down to the large pic with the grey pointy (you cant miss it.. lol

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=118671

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 10:43 PM
Bibio have you checked SV1000 calipers I was pretty convinced they are also same mountings.

Why do you advise just a SRAD top yoke? I'm not sure about the lock stops on the later stuff, so I'd use top + bottom from the SRAD.

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:45 PM
scroll down to the large pic with the grey pointy (you cant miss it.. lol

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=118671

Nice sucks that it is on a pointy thought over wise you could have told me the bits that i needed and that worked

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:47 PM
Bibio have you checked SV1000 calipers I was pretty convinced they are also same mountings.

Why do you advise just a SRAD top yoke? I'm not sure about the lock stops on the later stuff, so I'd use top + bottom from the SRAD.

kk so i will need a SRAD top/bottom yoke what year of bike will this need to come from. also the GSXR1000 K1 forks will fit in nicley

Bibio
10-05-09, 10:49 PM
Parts list as promised..

GSX-R 1000 K2 front end:
Forks
Yokes
Callipers 6 Pot
Front Wheel inc good tyre
Discs
Disc bolts
Spindle
Cost £400 eBay

Controls, levers & grips
Top yoke nut and washer
Top yoke pinch bolts
Top yoke castle nuts & washer
Top yoke bearing seal
Bottom yoke pinch bolts
Calliper banjo bolts and washers
Calliper fixing bolts
Brake lines
Master cylinder banjo bolt
Ignition + bolts
Bearings and races*** see bottom
Cost free, re use from SV650

Clipons, Gilles tooling variobar 60mm rise
Cost £73 eBay + £84 for new 50mm clamps (coz I’m daft)

Bottom Yoke pinch bolts, 8mm X 40mm SS flanged head
Cost £6.15 eBay

Front Pads, SBS sintered pads
Cost £32.50 eBay

Mudguard, black
Cost £56.95 Jesters Trick Bits

Mudguard bolts & spacers
Cost £19.97 local Suzuki dealer

Speedo sensor, Cherry switch GS100701, home made bracket
Cost £29.27 RS Components

Bolts & dome nuts to mount Speedo bracket
Cost £5.77 eBay

Magnets, 10mm X 5mm (20 of) I used 8
Cost £10.99 First4magnets

Resin for magnets, Steel Grip 2 part, or something like that
Cost £5.99 Halfords

***
Tapered bearings, I replaced the bearings for tapered roller type. This was not necessary but since I was removing the front end anyway I thought why not put better ones in that will last longer.
Cost £9.98 eBay
Lower yoke bearing seal, I had to replace this when putting on the new lower race.
Cost £5.48 local Suzuki dealer

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 10:49 PM
there was something else about the bearings/stem being different but i think that was for fitting the srad USD forks..


SRAD/Kx stem is same. Also same as pointy.
Same steering bearings used for every GSXR since the SRAD.

The curvy uses the old way of doing it with a smaller top race same as the slingshots and about a million other suzukis.

Thus to put SRAD stem into curvy frame or any other older frame you need TWF bearing which has correct OD for frame and bigger ID to fit spindle.

Bibio
10-05-09, 10:51 PM
Bibio have you checked SV1000 calipers I was pretty convinced they are also same mountings.

Why do you advise just a SRAD top yoke? I'm not sure about the lock stops on the later stuff, so I'd use top + bottom from the SRAD.

nope caliper mountings are 90mm

srad top yoke for ignition mounting or is the curvy off to one side like the pointy.. or is it in the centre like the srad's

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:52 PM
Parts list as promised..

GSX-R 1000 K2 front end:
Forks
Yokes
Callipers 6 Pot
Front Wheel inc good tyre
Discs
Disc bolts
Spindle
Cost £400 eBay

Controls, levers & grips
Top yoke nut and washer
Top yoke pinch bolts
Top yoke castle nuts & washer
Top yoke bearing seal
Bottom yoke pinch bolts
Calliper banjo bolts and washers
Calliper fixing bolts
Brake lines
Master cylinder banjo bolt
Ignition + bolts
Bearings and races*** see bottom
Cost free, re use from SV650

Clipons, Gilles tooling variobar 60mm rise
Cost £73 eBay + £84 for new 50mm clamps (coz I’m daft)

Bottom Yoke pinch bolts, 8mm X 40mm SS flanged head
Cost £6.15 eBay

Front Pads, SBS sintered pads
Cost £32.50 eBay

Mudguard, black
Cost £56.95 Jesters Trick Bits

Mudguard bolts & spacers
Cost £19.97 local Suzuki dealer

Speedo sensor, Cherry switch GS100701, home made bracket
Cost £29.27 RS Components

Bolts & dome nuts to mount Speedo bracket
Cost £5.77 eBay

Magnets, 10mm X 5mm (20 of) I used 8
Cost £10.99 First4magnets

Resin for magnets, Steel Grip 2 part, or something like that
Cost £5.99 Halfords

***
Tapered bearings, I replaced the bearings for tapered roller type. This was not necessary but since I was removing the front end anyway I thought why not put better ones in that will last longer.
Cost £9.98 eBay
Lower yoke bearing seal, I had to replace this when putting on the new lower race.
Cost £5.48 local Suzuki dealer

will any of that work on my curvy ... also i want k1 forks not k2 forks or are they the same also i still want to use the standed sv speedo and my steering lock

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 10:53 PM
Aha thems the numbers I was trying to think of.

Bottom is a 32006, top you will need a TWF bearing, as 32005 as standard for curvy won't fit the SRADstem through it.

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:55 PM
SRAD/Kx stem is same. Also same as pointy.
Same steering bearings used for every GSXR since the SRAD.

The curvy uses the old way of doing it with a smaller top race same as the slingshots and about a million other suzukis.

Thus to put SRAD stem into curvy frame or any other older frame you need TWF bearing which has correct OD for frame and bigger ID to fit spindle.


so TWF bearing and srad top/bottom yokes but what year will these yokes have to be to fit a 2002 curvy and GSXR1000 K1 forks ?

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 10:56 PM
Any SRAD750 AFAIK

Bibio
10-05-09, 10:57 PM
GSXR1000 K1-2 are exactly the same forks

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:58 PM
Any SRAD750 AFAIK

AFAIK ???

what other bits will i need from what bike/year and also to get the standed sv speedo to work ?

Nicky S
10-05-09, 10:58 PM
GSXR1000 K1-2 are exactly the same forks

kk

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 10:59 PM
Controls, levers & grips
Top yoke nut and washer
Top yoke pinch bolts
Top yoke castle nuts & washer
Top yoke bearing seal
Bottom yoke pinch bolts
Calliper banjo bolts and washers
Calliper fixing bolts
Brake lines
Master cylinder banjo bolt
Ignition + bolts
Bearings and races*** see bottom
Cost free, re use from SV650


***
Tapered bearings, I replaced the bearings for tapered roller type. This was not necessary but since I was removing the front end anyway I thought why not put better ones in that will last longer.
Cost £9.98 eBay
Lower yoke bearing seal, I had to replace this when putting on the new lower race.
Cost £5.48 local Suzuki dealer

Bold stuff needs to be gixxer specific. Will not swap from SV - SRAD.

Nicky S
10-05-09, 11:02 PM
Top yoke nut and washer
Top yoke castle nuts & washer
Bearings and races*** wont this be the part from TWF

take it these will have to come from the same make of bike as the forks so from a GSXR1000 K1

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:07 PM
has curvy has a different top yoke nut, castle nuts...

pointy stuff fits no problems...

if it were me i would go with GSXR1000/750 K1-5 yokes and drill a new steering lock hole in the stem... but thats me...

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:08 PM
Ah sorry if that was misleading about the bearing, lets take it from the top;

Top yoke nut+ washer; SRAD
Top yoke; SRAD
Adjuster nuts x 2, washer; SRAD
Bearing dust cover; SV
Top bearing; TWF
bottom bearing; standard SV (is the same as the SRAD)
Bottom yoke and spindle; SRAD

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:09 PM
has curvy has a different top yoke nut, castle nuts...

pointy stuff fits no problems...

if it were me i would go with GSXR1000/750 K1-5 yokes and drill a new steering lock hole in the stem... but thats me...

I wouldn't modify the frame there myself, especially not when there's an effectively bolt on part available to do the job.

SRAD/Kx stem is same. Also same as pointy.
Same steering bearings used for every GSXR since the SRAD.

The curvy uses the old way of doing it with a smaller top race same as the slingshots and about a million other suzukis.

Thus to put SRAD stem into curvy frame or any other older frame you need TWF bearing which has correct OD for frame and bigger ID to fit spindle.

.

Nicky S
10-05-09, 11:14 PM
Ah sorry if that was misleading about the bearing, lets take it from the top;

Top yoke nut+ washer; SRAD
Top yoke; SRAD
Adjuster nuts x 2, washer; SRAD
Bearing dust cover; SV
Top bearing; TWF
bottom bearing; standard SV (is the same as the SRAD)
Bottom yoke and spindle; SRAD


hey hey thats what iv been looking for next question what year of SRAD ?
also do you know much about the axle or speedo seeing as i am using GSXR1000 K1 forks i take it i will need a gixxed1000 k1 front wheel/axel/spacer washers

will i be able to use the standed sv speedo ?

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:19 PM
I would not expect it to matter what year of SRAD you use. Out of preference I'd go for the latest one I could find.
The SRADs were 96-99*

*for the 750, 600 as we know it was only out in 97. '96 600 was the one in double cradle frame. Weighed about a million tonnes and was pointless compared to a slingy 750.



Because you're using SRAD yokes, you need to use an SRAD axle, otherwise it may be the wrong length.

Wheel. I would need to check, maybe SRAD, maybe K1->

Hopefully SRAD, because they're cheaper, and they match the rear.

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:23 PM
hey hey thats what iv been looking for next question what year of SRAD ?

haven't the foggest... best person to ask would be northwind or YC

also do you know much about the axle or speedo seeing as i am using GSXR1000 K1 forks i take it i will need a gixxed1000 k1 front wheel/axel/spacer washers

yes and no.. this depends on the yoke spacings...

will i be able to use the standed sv speedo ?

yes.. but you will need a hall effect sensor in place of the SV's wheel mount sensor and magnets in the discs.. there is another way but you would have to ask northwind or someone who has done a rear sensor mount

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:26 PM
Bibio if you could measure the space between your discs then that would tell us about the wheel (I can nip downstairs and measure SRAD)

Nicky S
10-05-09, 11:28 PM
hey hey thats what iv been looking for next question what year of SRAD ?

haven't the foggest... best person to ask would be northwind or YC

also do you know much about the axle or speedo seeing as i am using GSXR1000 K1 forks i take it i will need a gixxed1000 k1 front wheel/axel/spacer washers

yes and no.. this depends on the yoke spacings...

will i be able to use the standed sv speedo ?

yes.. but you will need a hall effect sensor in place of the SV's wheel mount sensor and magnets in the discs.. there is another way but you would have to ask northwind or someone who has done a rear sensor mount

i found out how to do the rear but id rather it be on the front were it is spsose to be

link for rear speedo
http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10167

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:28 PM
Bibio if you could measure the space between your discs then that would tell us about the wheel (I can nip downstairs and measure SRAD)

way cool... i have wanted to know this for ages...

gives 2mins...

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:39 PM
SRAD (according to my cheap $hit vernier caliper)

130mm between discs measuring to inside
25mm inner diameter of spindle
32mm spindle diameter at fork base.

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:39 PM
according to my veryneers the spacing inside disc face to disc face is 127.5mm outside will be +10mm for disc thickness this would give us 137.5mm outside

you have to remember that the GSXR1000 K1-2 discs have a recess machined in the inside face bolt hole area of .5mm

Nicky S
10-05-09, 11:39 PM
SRAD (according to my cheap $hit vernier caliper)

130mm between discs measuring to inside
25mm inner diameter of spindle
32mm spindle diameter at fork base.

what is this to work out ?

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:40 PM
hold on i'll get the spindle sizes..

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:41 PM
Whether you can use a matching SRAD wheel, or whether you need to use later and more expensive K1-K5* wheel

*K5 600 and 750. Up to K4 1000

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:45 PM
ok spindle size is 31.5-32mm and shank is 15mm

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:46 PM
wring its 25mm shank

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:48 PM
Yeah mine was a little below 32mm on spindle... pinch on bottom of fork will sort half a mil difference no problem if there is even a difference.

(Just remembered I measured practically on where the dust seal would sit, so a little wear here is not out of the question)


What about separation between the brake discs?

Nicky S
10-05-09, 11:52 PM
im off to bed so all we need to know is what wheel discs spindel and calipers i can use. also is there a way to use the sv speedo on the front ??

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:53 PM
wring its 25mm shank

Confirmed aye... they both take same wheel bearing (6205 2RS, 90% sure)

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:55 PM
what i was thinking is 130mm - 1mm for gsxr discs gives us 129 .. which would give us +1mm either side extra to get the srad wheel into the callipers...

hmmmm.. reduction of the calliper mounting faces by 1mm per side would be perfect...

Bibio
10-05-09, 11:57 PM
gsxr front bearing is 25X52X15

yorkie_chris
10-05-09, 11:57 PM
im off to bed so all we need to know is what wheel discs spindel and calipers i can use. also is there a way to use the sv speedo on the front ??

Spindle you'll want the SRAD one.
Calipers. GSXR1000 Y-K2. GSXR600/750 Y-K3.
Discs. 320mm flat rotors. Same as calipers but also include: SRAD6/750, TLS, TLR, 'busa.


No you can't use SV speedo on the front because the SRAD spindle is a lot thicker.

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:03 AM
what i will do tomorrow is get the:

outside to outside bearing faces size

lower clamp inside to inside faces size

take as many sizes as possible...

i would prefer an srad wheel on the front...

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 12:05 AM
what i was thinking is 130mm - 1mm for gsxr discs gives us 129 .. which would give us +1mm either side extra to get the srad wheel into the callipers...

hmmmm.. reduction of the calliper mounting faces by 1mm per side would be perfect...

Are you sure about this? EBC lists same MD3058 for SRAD and GSXR1000 K1-K2.

I have SRAD ones here and also 'busa ones. All are flat at back.

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:09 AM
defo.... i have one sitting here its OEM... it has been turned down on the boss at the back where the disc boss and the wheel face would meet.. the busa, tl, srag, gsxr750/600 ones are different.. but i have heard of people using them on the gsxr1000 k1-2

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 12:13 AM
Hmmm ok.

Question is how much space is there inside caliper when there's new pads in.

Or maybe my measurement of 130 is wrong :-P

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:13 AM
picture of back:

4156

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:14 AM
Hmmm ok.

Question is how much space is there inside caliper when there's new pads in.

loads

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 12:16 AM
Well that's the only time that mm will matter if they foul on sides of caliper slot or the slot between pads is offset past the side of the disc when pistons are fully retracted.

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:19 AM
was thinking the same thing ... but having 1mm machined off the calliper lugs would make it a perfect fit and i doubt it would effect the strength of the lugs. or 1mm either side of the wheel boss...

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 12:21 AM
But it would be silly not to bolt it all up first and see if it will just work without faffing.

Tell you what bring your bike down to me, we will strip front end, bolt your forks into some SRAD750 yokes I have here with a srad front wheel, discs etc. We'll see if it all lines up ... and then Nicky will decide "nah I can't be bothered, I'll just get some progressive springs instead"

Bibio
11-05-09, 12:25 AM
But it would be silly not to bolt it all up first and see if it will just work without faffing.

Tell you what bring your bike down to me, we will strip front end, bolt your forks into some SRAD750 yokes I have here with a srad front wheel, discs etc. We'll see if it all lines up ... and then Nicky will decide "nah I can't be bothered, I'll just get some progressive springs instead"

:smt046... would be a good one if we could... mabee in the summer.. :riding:

found something else out the other day... the front mudguard (modified by cutting the back part off and making new mounting holes) off the pointy SV fits the GSXR100 k1-2 forks.. :thumright:

Nicky S
11-05-09, 08:54 AM
well that is a lot of info and cant belive you stayed up till like half 1 chating about it mish lol

so i can use a SRAD wheel :P

i now know i cant use the sv speedo on the front but the SRAD wheel looks nearly the same as the sv one so could i use the SRAD speedo ???



The one problem you will be left with, whether you go USD or RWU is the speedo. The SV650 runs it speedo off of the front wheel and the SRAD wheel has no location for it and the SRAD spindle has no space and is to large a diameter to except the speedo unit. There are three option to take, one is to run with no speedo, another is to use a Hall Effect sensor (Northwind (http://forums.sv650.org/member.php?u=1100) and Yorkie Chris (http://forums.sv650.org/member.php?u=6124) are your experts here :notworthy:), and the final option is to run the standard SV speedo off of the rear wheel.



YC DD says your the expert on the speedo bit :P want to explain a hall effect sensor

Bibio
11-05-09, 09:52 AM
well that is a lot of info and cant belive you stayed up till like half 1 chating about it mish lol

so i can use a SRAD wheel :P

i now know i cant use the sv speedo on the front but the SRAD wheel looks nearly the same as the sv one so could i use the SRAD speedo ???




YC DD says your the expert on the speedo bit :P want to explain a hall effect sensor

as far as i know the srad is same as K in that the speedo sensor is driven off the sprocket shaft...

easiest way to do it is magnets and hall effect sensor...

hopefully we can figure out that we can use an srad wheel.. just have to compair the outside bearing sizes...

Nicky S
11-05-09, 09:55 AM
as far as i know the srad is same as K in that the speedo sensor is driven off the sprocket shaft...

easiest way to do it is magnets and hall effect sensor...

hopefully we can figure out that we can use an srad wheel.. just have to compair the outside bearing sizes...

umm if im using or we can use a SRAD wheel then i am using SRAD spindle as well so a SRAD speedo seems easyer but will it fit and wire into the sv ?

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 10:56 AM
The SRAD doesn't have a speedo sensor like the SV does. The SRAD and most other gixers take their speedo signal from the front sprocket.

A hall effect sensor is basically a switch. When it passes through a changing magnetic field it flips from non-conducting to conducting. The SV speedo interprets this output as a speed based on the frequency of the pulses.


So, to make it work all you do is bolt 4 little magnets through the brake disc rivets, bolt a sensor onto the mudguard mounting tab and wire the sensor into the stock loom.

Nicky S
11-05-09, 12:46 PM
The SRAD doesn't have a speedo sensor like the SV does. The SRAD and most other gixers take their speedo signal from the front sprocket.

A hall effect sensor is basically a switch. When it passes through a changing magnetic field it flips from non-conducting to conducting. The SV speedo interprets this output as a speed based on the frequency of the pulses.


So, to make it work all you do is bolt 4 little magnets through the brake disc rivets, bolt a sensor onto the mudguard mounting tab and wire the sensor into the stock loom.


kk were can i get this senser/speedo from ?? also do we know if i can use the SRAD wheel also im going to need spaces ect as well seeing as i am using the SRAD wheel and spindle i take it i will need SRAD spaces

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 07:45 PM
Spacers? SRAD only uses the spacer in the middle of the wheel, most I've seen on eBay or whatever include this.

The spindle design of SRAD> spacers is such that the spindle IS the spacer.

Nicky S
11-05-09, 11:02 PM
Spacers? SRAD only uses the spacer in the middle of the wheel, most I've seen on eBay or whatever include this.

The spindle design of SRAD> spacers is such that the spindle IS the spacer.


ahhhhhhhh i see so i just need the spindle and wheel. do you know were i can get the speedo thing from ???

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 11:05 PM
ahhhhhhhh i see so i just need the spindle and wheel. do you know were i can get the speedo thing from ???

The parts have been posted in this very thread...

Nicky S
11-05-09, 11:10 PM
were all you have done is told me ant ya i ment a link to a site or something

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 11:15 PM
Speedo sensor, Cherry switch GS100701, home made bracket
Cost £29.27 RS Components

were all you have done is told me ant ya i ment a link to a site or something

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=rs+components

Nicky S
11-05-09, 11:19 PM
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=rs+components

dont undertsnad this bit ... Sensor; 15-32 in.-32; Sink; 4.5 to 24 VDC; 6 mA (Max.); 400 mV (Max.); 1 in.

will i need magnets as well or do they come with the sensor ?

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=GS100701&x=2&y=19

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 11:23 PM
That is spec of sensor.

You need magnets also.

Bibios choice is OK but I found it better to use some countersunk magnets off eBay, that way they can simply be bolted through the disc rivets with some M4 bolts and nylocs. Totally secure and swappable between discs.

Nicky S
11-05-09, 11:33 PM
That is spec of sensor.

You need magnets also.

Bibios choice is OK but I found it better to use some countersunk magnets off eBay, that way they can simply be bolted through the disc rivets with some M4 bolts and nylocs. Totally secure and swappable between discs.

have you got a picture of this ???

write so after are long thread which is full of info is my list below right ?

GSXR1000 K1 Bits

* USD Forks
* Callipers + Bolts
* Mud Guard

SRAD Bits

* Top Yoke
* Top Yoke Nut (51353-27C40 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51353-27C40&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com))
* Top Yoke Washer (51356-29E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51356-29E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com))
* Adjuster Nut x2 (51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com))
* Adjuster Washer To Suit x1 (51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com))
* Bottom Yoke
* Spindle
* Wheel
* Discs

Other bits needed

* TWF Bearing (Clicky For Link (http://www.twfracing.com/images/zparts/steering_head_bearing_lg.jpeg))
* Parts To Make Speedo (Clicky For Link (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=GS100701&x=2&y=19)) + Magnets

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 11:37 PM
OK

move the discs to the SRAD bits section (the 0.5mm offset we were jabbering about earlier!) (bolts it doesn't matter, they are same)

Add; SRAD adjuster nuts x2 and adjuster washer. (Will find you some suzuki part numbers in a bit)

Nicky S
11-05-09, 11:42 PM
OK

move the discs to the SRAD bits section (the 0.5mm offset we were jabbering about earlier!) (bolts it doesn't matter, they are same)

Add; SRAD adjuster nuts x2 and adjuster washer. (Will find you some suzuki part numbers in a bit)

cheers YC

my list ok yer ....

quick question which i didnt think about what about the speedo and headlight ?

also am i being stupid but arnt these the same part ?

* Top Yoke Nut And Washer
* Adjuster Nuts x2 And Adjuster Washer

yorkie_chris
11-05-09, 11:53 PM
No they are not.

The top yoke nut goes above the top yoke.
The adjuster nuts go below the top yoke with the adjusters washer between them... for the purpose of adjusting the head bearings.


Of course if these were not there, and you simply tightened the top yoke nut and clamped the bearings rigidly with the full torque of assembly. The bearings would be preloaded so much that damage would be inevitable.

Nicky S
12-05-09, 12:03 AM
No they are not.

The top yoke nut goes above the top yoke.
The adjuster nuts go below the top yoke with the adjusters washer between them... for the purpose of adjusting the head bearings.


Of course if these were not there, and you simply tightened the top yoke nut and clamped the bearings rigidly with the full torque of assembly. The bearings would be preloaded so much that damage would be inevitable.


ahhhhhhhh i see YC your a clever guy

you got any pictures of your front end ??

also how will i get over the problem of mounting the gauges and headlight ?

yorkie_chris
12-05-09, 12:06 AM
Headlight, you can get some universal headlight clamps, they're fairly common for streetfightery type bikes.

Clocks, I filled the back of the top yoke with fibreglass and drilled and tapped that. Bodgetastic, but it worked temporarily.... and is still there now!

Nicky S
12-05-09, 12:15 AM
Headlight, you can get some universal headlight clamps, they're fairly common for streetfightery type bikes.

Clocks, I filled the back of the top yoke with fibreglass and drilled and tapped that. Bodgetastic, but it worked temporarily.... and is still there now!

bodge dosent sound lik a YC job lol
ill have to have more of a look at it when i have all the bits i need and start doing it.

can i see a picture if you have one of the magnets for the speedo ?

any part numbers for them bits ?

yorkie_chris
12-05-09, 12:22 AM
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb45/loubi650/2008_03250001.jpg

Nicky S
12-05-09, 12:29 AM
very nice were did you get your magnets. also with the SRAD stuff dose it matter if it is from diffrent years ?

yorkie_chris
12-05-09, 12:32 AM
any part numbers for them bits ?

Adjuster nut
51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x2

Washer to suit
51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x1

Top yoke nut
51353-27C40 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51353-27C40&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com)

Top yoke washer
51356-29E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51356-29E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com)

Why am I doing all legwork eh? :-P


Your best bet is to simply find a set of yokes that comes with all these sundry parts.

Nicky S
12-05-09, 12:40 AM
Adjuster nut
51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x2

Washer to suit
51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x1

Top yoke nut
51353-27C40 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51353-27C40&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com)

Top yoke washer
51356-29E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51356-29E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com)

Why am I doing all legwork eh? :-P


Your best bet is to simply find a set of yokes that comes with all these sundry parts.

ahhh YC gotta keep you on your toes lol


51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x2

Washer to suit
51631-33E00 (http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=51631-33E00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com) x1

same part code

yer i am hopeing to buy the yokes with the lot on. but it is allways good to have the info if i cant

Nicky S
12-05-09, 09:48 PM
YC were u get your magnets from ?

yorkie_chris
12-05-09, 09:54 PM
eBay.

10mm dia x 5mm thick with 4mm drilled hole

Bibio
13-05-09, 06:37 PM
ok here is all the data i can get

gsxr1000 k1-2 forks/wheel

outside to outside wheel bearing size is 130mm

disc size inside to inside is 127.5mm +10mm for outside size

forks relaxed inside size is 164mm

calliper inside face to inside face is 184mm

calliper mating face to centre of calliper is 25mm

narrowest part of calliper throat is 8.5mm (which is 4.25mm centre)

discs are 5mm thick

Nicky S
14-05-09, 01:37 AM
ok here is all the data i can get

gsxr1000 k1-2 forks/wheel

outside to outside wheel bearing size is 130mm

disc size inside to inside is 127.5mm +10mm for outside size

forks relaxed inside size is 164mm

calliper inside face to inside face is 184mm

calliper mating face to centre of calliper is 25mm

narrowest part of calliper throat is 8.5mm (which is 4.25mm centre)

discs are 5mm thick

so YC with bibio blinding bit of info can i use a srad wheel ?

yorkie_chris
14-05-09, 01:23 PM
Yes.

Worst case scenario the caliper mounts on the K1 fork legs will need 1mm filing off them. (Or 1mm taking off the brake pads)

I'll bet it will bolt straight up.

Nicky S
18-05-09, 04:02 PM
whop whop happy days :P

yorkie_chris
18-05-09, 06:56 PM
I will measure wheel better. I have one waiting down at post office, but you'll have to wait because I have exams this week.

Nicky S
21-06-09, 02:09 PM
cheers for the info guys cant wait to start doing it :P. dose anyone now if there is a bracket or some sort of mounting to fit the sv clocks on to a SRAD york becuase i dont really want to bodge it

yorkie_chris
22-06-09, 08:13 AM
Proper job way is to get a thick plate welded under the yoke. Drill and tap this to mount clocks. Will also shore up the area for handlebar riser mountings.

Nicky S
22-06-09, 09:24 AM
Proper job way is to get a thick plate welded under the yoke. Drill and tap this to mount clocks. Will also shore up the area for handlebar riser mountings.

That is the sort of thing i was thinking of just have to see wat i can make up

Nicky S
25-06-09, 02:15 AM
As the callipers and discs are both coming from a gsxr 1000 k1 if i cant get them what other models are the same. Can i use my sv discs also wil my goodbrdge lines fit on the gsxr callipers .. I dont think they will just want to check

yorkie_chris
25-06-09, 10:39 AM
SV discs are wayyy too small. Also dished discs... GSXR ones are flat.

GSXR 1k uses 320mm flat rotor. Same as 96> GSXR. TL1000S, TL1000R, 'busa up to K7. Also GSXRs up to 2003.

Goodridge lines work OK. Check banjo bolt thread pitch though. SV and GSXR600 SRAD are the same though.

yorkie_chris
02-09-09, 09:47 PM
Here is more info for you if we can convince you not to use chavvy GSXR1000 forks.

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/images/content/motorcycle/kyaba.jpg

This is comparison, notice showa kit on the 600/750 has higher flow piston design?

zadar
03-09-09, 12:03 AM
06 and newer gsxr showa forks don't have those higher flow valves.

fastdruid
03-09-09, 10:42 AM
Yes.

Worst case scenario the caliper mounts on the K1 fork legs will need 1mm filing off them. (Or 1mm taking off the brake pads)


Use TL1000R discs, they are thinner (and lighter[1]) than GSXR1000K1-2 I think they are 4.5mm against 5mm.

Also you might want to use TL1000R caliper bolts, they're hollow and so lighter than GSXR but more importantly they look better. :-)

Hayabusa/GSXR (bit manky at the time admittedly; hayabusa forks/wheel/calipers/discs)
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC02118.JPG

TL1000R bolts (hayabusa forks/calipers, TL1000R wheel, GSXR1000K2 discs)
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05569.JPG

Druid

[1] Along with being thinner they have a groove round the outside.

fastdruid
03-09-09, 10:45 AM
06 and newer gsxr showa forks don't have those higher flow valves.

What's the 'best' GSXR USD fork then?

yorkie_chris
03-09-09, 05:00 PM
06 and newer gsxr showa forks don't have those higher flow valves.

Some suspension tuner was quoted as saying "forks are getting worse over time, it's like they know racers will throw them away and fit something else"

zadar
03-09-09, 06:51 PM
don't know if you can say worse, just different.

yorkie_chris
03-09-09, 07:02 PM
I guess suzuki say cheaper :-P

northwind
03-09-09, 10:14 PM
As the callipers and discs are both coming from a gsxr 1000 k1 if i cant get them what other models are the same. Can i use my sv discs also wil my goodbrdge lines fit on the gsxr callipers .. I dont think they will just want to check

YC is bang on with the discs. For calipers, if you've not already bought the GSXR1000 ones I say don't! Them 6 pots are heavy, overcomplex to service, and not actually any better- they do have a little more power than the 4-pots off the 2000-2003 GSXR750 and... Um... 2001 to 2003 600 is it? Something like that... Anyway, those 4-pots, which are directly compatible... But, the 4-pots have more than enough power anyway, and they give a bit more subtlety.

yorkie_chris
04-09-09, 08:59 AM
And there are less pistons to sieze :-D

fastdruid
04-09-09, 09:45 AM
And there are less pistons to sieze :-D

And less seals to buy :-D

The 6 pots are ace, with fresh pads, just after a good fettle.....



....for about 5 minutes!

Druid

Bibio
05-09-09, 12:03 AM
i agree 6 pot callipers are really good (to good for the SV actually) when working but take a lot of looking after. the four pot calliper would be much better.

i find with my 6 pots there is far to much braking power coupled with the engine braking and you have to be really 'touchy feely' with the brake leaver. saying that when you are giving the bike a lot of stick you can brake very late into corners.

another thing thats different about the 6 pot and the 4 pot, the 6 pot only have 1 fluid hole at the top of the callipers to feed the opposite (inner) pistons, where the 4 pot have 2 holes 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom to feed the opposite (inner) pistons.

fastdruid
05-09-09, 12:49 AM
another thing thats different about the 6 pot and the 4 pot, the 6 pot only have 1 fluid hole at the top of the callipers to feed the opposite (inner) pistons, where the 4 pot have 2 holes 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom to feed the opposite (inner) pistons.

Nah, the 6 pots have fluid holes top and bottom. Well the ex-Hayabusa ones I have do anyway. Which also btw have nice coated (Teflon?) alloy pistons rather than the steel ones that some of the identical looking Tokico ones have.

Druid

Bibio
05-09-09, 12:59 AM
mine are the GSXR1000 K1-2 6 pots which also have Teflon pistons and i can assure you they only have 1 fluid hole....

fastdruid
05-09-09, 01:14 AM
mine are the GSXR1000 K1-2 6 pots which also have Teflon pistons and i can assure you they only have 1 fluid hole....

Interesting, the Hayabusa ones *certainly* do.

Tragically I don't have a single shot of a caliper side but only in two pics but you can clearly see the transfer seals at both ends (and the actual hole at one)
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC03819.JPG
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC03820.JPG

Druid