K3 Rear Brake Pads

[Graciepants]

Just a quick question:

can you swap the pads round as they are wearing unevenly? :flower:

Thank youuuuuuu

[warrenhewitt10]

nope they have different connectors on each end as far as im aware. One side has the goin through it and the other sits on the bracket so it will only work one way

[keith_d]

Nope. The hole for the retaining pin is at the top on both pads so you can't swap them round.

I've just been looking at the Haynes manual and the K3 is the first model with a sliding rear caliper (single piston on the outside). When the piston presses on the outside pad, it also pulls the whole caliper assembly outwards, forcing the inside pad onto the disk at the same time.

These generally wear the pad on the piston (outside) a little faster than the fixed pad (inside). However, if the inside pad isn't wearing at all the caliper might be stuck.

It's probably worth PM'ing one of the real experts to check I'm not talking out of my a***.

Keith.

[Dave20046]

cheers guys it's the pad nearest the swingarm (inside) that's wearing fastest. Brakes probably need a service.

[Sid Squid]

Just a quick question:

can you swap the pads round as they are wearing unevenly? :flower:

Thank youuuuuuu
As said above, no, the pads are different.
However, even though absolutely identical wear is unusual, if they're wearing unevenly enough to make you consider swapping them about then something is amiss. As you have a pointy which has a single piston rear caliper, then the likely culprit is that the caliper isn't moving correctly on it's pins, causing the inner pad to drag. The other possibility is a sticky piston, although this usually leads to high wear of both pads with such a caliper.
Experience with said caliper leads to me the first suggestion as a likely cause.

[Dave20046]

As said above, no, the pads are different.
However, even though absolutely identical wear is unusual, if they're wearing unevenly enough to make you consider swapping them about then something is amiss. As you have a pointy which has a single piston rear caliper, then the likely culprit is that the caliper isn't moving correctly on it's pins, causing the inner pad to drag. The other possibility is a sticky piston, although this usually leads to high wear of both pads with such a caliper.
Experience with said caliper leads to me the first suggestion as a likely cause.
Cheers Sid. Solution? Take everything apart and clean & grease as appropriate?

[plowsie]

Cheers Sid. Solution? Take everything apart and clean & grease as appropriate?
Pretty much, if the piston is sticking it needs a greasing. Might be best to do it if you have the caliper out for the pads anyway...Takes a short amount of time.

[Dave20046]

Pretty much, if the piston is sticking it needs a greasing. Might be best to do it if you have the caliper out for the pads anyway...Takes a short amount of time.
cheers plows

[Sid Squid]

Cheers Sid. Solution? Take everything apart and clean & grease as appropriate?
Essentially, yes.

When you remove the caliper you'll see that one of the retaining bolts, the front one, is actually the pin upon which the caliper can move laterally and the other has a bush around it that the caliper slides on, these need to be completely free to move and the rubber gaiters need to be fitted correctly and not binding too. If they don't move freely the inner pad will move up to the disc as it should when the pedal is pressed, but when released it will be held against the disc, often not enough to cause any noticable binding of the brake, but the rate of wear will be increased.
I'd pump the piston out a few millimetres past the ring of dirt on it and clean that too - it's good practice to make sure everything is moving freely which will ensure the new pads last properly.