led blink rate, definative answer?

[Kilted Ginger]

Now i've done a bit of a search and there are numerous posts on this subject but no clear /concise answer.

You fit led's say to the rear on a tail tidy, they flash too fast.

you can fit a relay ehich seems to carry its own problems, you can wire in rersistors but the impedance and rating of these is not clear and there are issues wity overheating or you can wire in your old indys under the seat.

Now with the knowledge of the org there must be someone (who erally knows there stuff re auto electrics, summation of parallel resistances etc, that could write a small clear instruction.

ie "if tour new led indy has a resistance of x ohms then solder in a yohm z watt resistor in parallel"

"if you replace front and rear fit a x type relay wired like this"

you get the drift

Anyway, IF YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF, please post up, I'll amalgate all the responses and see if i can create an idiots guide. Cheers.

[Grinch]

Appears we are posting similar questions... maybe these threads could be combined?

[Kilted Ginger]

Yeah thats the plan once i can get clear comprehensive answers i'll create an idiots guide and speak nicely to one of the mods for this section to delete all the other threads to ease searching i the future.

[TC3]

I took someones advice in regards to resistors from Maplin. It was 4 years ago so do not remember what they were rated at. They are soldered and wrapped in several layers of electrical tape and have not caused any issues. If i can find the old post i will let you know what i used.


Ok this is what i used....they are 45p each from Maplin... H10R is 10Watt 10 ohm

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=2181&doy=

[DarrenSV650S]

What's the problem with replacing the relay? Worked perfect for me. Just get the honda one from halfords or similar. There is a thread on here that told me how to do it

[MattCollins]

One of many such products.

http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?mod=product&id_prd=162

It's not that hard... honest. :)

Cheers

[Grinch]

One of many such products.

http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?mod=product&id_prd=162

It's not that hard... honest. :)

Cheers

Well that could be annoying.

NOTE: In some instances indicator switch will remain active after ignition is turned off.

[Grinch]

Ok this is what i used....they are 45p each from Maplin... H10R is 10Watt 10 ohm

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=2181&doy=

Nice, cheap as chips. I know where I'm poping later.

[MattCollins]

Well that could be annoying.

NOTE: In some instances indicator switch will remain active after ignition is turned off.
As I understand it, that'd likely be caused by the hazard light circuit powering the indicator circuit - it is all in the OEM wiring and the original fancy flasher being replaced with a basic flasher [EDIT ...on some bikes]. The SV uses a simple 3 pin (earth, +ve in, +ve out) flasher so it is a like for like replacement.

Cheers

[Spiderman]

Now i've done a bit of a search and there are numerous posts on this subject but no clear /concise answer.

You fit led's say to the rear on a tail tidy, they flash too fast.


Personally i like mine to flash faster than cars and other bikes cos i genuinely believe that the fast flash catches the eye more. Oh and also KG, here is the definative answer you need:
Legal requirement is 60 - 120 flashes per minute.

[Grinch]

I can't count that high I don't have enough fingers.

[scooby2102]

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m1s01000501.htm


there ye go, straight from the horses mouth

[Spiderman]

Silly boy, count how many it flashes in 10 secs and then x by 6. Easy :)

[Kilted Ginger]

Firstly no offence to anyone, playing devils advocate here.

Ok this is what i used....they are 45p each from Maplin... H10R is 10Watt 10 ohm
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=2181&doy=

Thats fine and well and glad they worked, I've also seen quoted 3 ohm 3w and 3 ohm 10w, resistors, I've tried both of these on a test circuit and both overheat to the point of blistering the electrical tape. Also stating a single resistor as the cure all assumes that all Minni's have the same impedance (which i doubt) and that it works equally well if you replace the rear indys only or the front and rear. Ideally we need a chart here with the power and resistance of resistor to be used in each instance, taking into account their k factors(temp)

What's the problem with replacing the relay? Worked perfect for me. Just get the Honda one from halfords or similar. There is a thread on here that told me how to do it
Replacing it with what, the motrax one, the Honda one, the yahama one, how do we know which ones work properly and why would another manufacturers one work when the suzi doesn't? there have also been instances of the dash indicator lighting permanently with the motrax one (i think) which is an mot fail. I apreciate the Honda one worked for you but which one, i presume Honda has more than one indicator relay unit??

One of many such products.

http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?mod=product&id_prd=162

It's not that hard... honest. :)

Cheers

You would think not, but if you look at the amount of threads on here over the years, "help replaced relay nothing working)" it obviously isn't that straight forward for some people and problems are encountered.

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m1s01000501.htm

there ye go, straight from the horses mouth
Thanks, scoobs, that is the perfect example of a definitive answer that I'll pop right at the top of the idiots guide, concise and irrefutable.

I know it may seem a bit pedantic and probably is but, like i said in the op, I want to get o the point where I can post a definitive clear, concise guide to this, where as at the moment there is a collection of "i did this and i worked, so did i and it didn't" posts

[DarrenSV650S]

Replacing it with what, the motrax one, the Honda one, the yahama one, how do we know which ones work properly and why would another manufacturers one work when the suzi doesn't? there have also been instances of the dash indicator lighting permanently with the motrax one (i think) which is an mot fail. I apreciate the Honda one worked for you but which one, i presume Honda has more than one indicator relay unit??
The one from halfords isn't a honda one, it's just marked "honda" and worked fine. So I can recommend that one anyway. It works because it doesn't try to "sense" when a bulb has gone, it just flashes away constantly. The sv one flashes fast when you put LED's on because it thinks a bulb has gone because of the low resisitance

[Grinch]

oooh, I'll get the resistors anyway and have a look at this one in Halfords.

[PaulSV]

just buy the Oxford indys they come with a resistor in the pack :D

[Grinch]

Maybe I don't like the way they look.

[walkaboutandy]

This company do a flasher relay for LED indies. I don't have them myself so don't know if its any good.

Scroll to the bottom of the page...............
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/flashers.php

[embee]

The resistor principle is simple.

The power of LED indis is negligible compared to a standard lamp, which is almost always 21W in OE units, therefore ignore the LED current draw and simply work on fitting a resistor which gives and equivalent current draw to the 21W lamp.

In simplest terms, Watts = Volts (V) x Amps (I),
so for a nominal 21W and 12V you want a resistor which will draw
I = W/V = 21/12 = 1.75Amps
to replace each 21W lamp.

Now for a resistor, R = V/I (Volts/current Amps)
so R = 12/1.75 = 6.85 Ohms

A standard resistor value just so happens to be 6.8 Ohms, usually written as "6R8". You might get away with a 10 Ohm resistor and there'd still be enough current for the flasher unit to work as normal, but it'd be suck-it-and-see (the flash rate changes when the flasher "thinks" a lamp has failed, i.e. the current drops to around half the normal value).

The power rating of the resistor is simply how much heat it is physically capable of dissipating without overheating, it is not really an electrical characteristic as such. You are trying to simulate a 21W lamp, and that's the power it will be dissipating when it is "on", but of course it is only "on" about half the time so you can "get away with" a resistor rated at 10W, though it will be at its limit and if available I'd suggest pay a little more and get a 25W resistor.

These resistors are fitted in parallel with the LED indis, think of it as a little current goes through th eLED and a lot of current bypasses it through the resistor.

[TC3]

The resistor principle is simple.


In simplest terms, Watts = Volts (V) x Amps (I),
so for a nominal 21W and 12V you want a resistor which will draw
I = W/V = 21/12 = 1.75Amps
to replace each 21W lamp.

Now for a resistor, R = V/I (Volts/current Amps)
so R = 12/1.75 = 6.85 Ohms



:smt102

[Grinch]

Lol, I'm sure if I stare at it long enough it will form some characters that make sense.