Help needed on handlebar conversion

[Specialone]

Howdy,
Just spent last few hours trying to get my new handlebar kit fitted.
Got most of it done even without any instructions being sent, but i have few queries.
1, They supplied 2 braided brake lines similar in length, i presume these replace the manifold or whatever its called which is mounted on front fender (or mudguard) and fits directly to the calipers rather than through the manifold or splitter.
There is a double banjo bolt which i think goes lever end and 2x single banjos which i presume goes on the calipers.
Is it a good idea to re-use the rubber sleeving and run the new hoses through these to prevent any chaffing.
2, No clutch cable was supplied so i presume again i dont need one, does it just need re-routing?
The only way i can see the clutch cable working is if it routes straight to the lever when it leaves the hole by the tank instead of going through and round the forks.
Can somebody in the know please confirm if i'm barking up the right tree?
Very difficult doing a job like this because a, for the first time and b, with no instructions whatsoever.
Thanks
Phil

[Bibio]

you are correct about the brake lines.

as far as i know you will need longer clutch and throttle cables if you want to route them properly (might be an MOT fail if you dont). you may also have to detach the control wiring from the block mounting under the tank (i had to and i only have adjustable clipons)

i'm surprised that the longer throttle and clutch cables were not supplied in the kit.

[lee67]

yes double banjo to master cyl'.....single to each caliper, and yes u lose all the rubber hoses/splitter etc....i used ss p clips to hold the brake lines tidy to the forks etc, as for clutch line, yes re-route back thru the forks and go direct from headstock to bars' this is how i did mine and works fine, i also managed to re-route the throttle cables and they also work fine on full lock either direction, mines just passed its mot too'''..my upbar conversion cost me less than £100 for all the bits i needed, as i was gonna order the 998 kit..anymore questions just ask;)

[Nicky S]

what kit have you got i undertsnad the brake lines (and yes you have got that right) also i take it you have the washers as well.

but i dont see why u would need new clutch cable got laods of room on it the only problem i had was my throttle cables being pulled tight and sticking.

can we have some more info on your kit please becuase if your jsut sticking renthals on it then you dont need to change much also what bike is it ?

[lee67]

my throttle cables arnt pulling...works fine..all depends how u re-route them, i came out the right side of headstock instead of usual left hand side...works for me, and like i say its just passed its mot:cool:..now im really enjoying the naked upright position after 26 yrs of sportsbikes etc

[Specialone]

what kit have you got i undertsnad the brake lines (and yes you have got that right) also i take it you have the washers as well.

but i dont see why u would need new clutch cable got laods of room on it the only problem i had was my throttle cables being pulled tight and sticking.

can we have some more info on your kit please becuase if your jsut sticking renthals on it then you dont need to change much also what bike is it ?

I have the kit from 999cc.com which supplied renthal bars, braided s/steel hoses and banjos, washers etc, longer throttle cables, yoke, risers, new grips and no intructions for a 09 k7 sv650s.
Throttle cables are done and working, stock clutch cable is quite short and will not reach unless re-routed.
The throttle cables would have worked i think just coming out of the right rather than the left because there aint a lot of difference between the new and stock.
Phil

[Specialone]

yes double banjo to master cyl'.....single to each caliper, and yes u lose all the rubber hoses/splitter etc....i used ss p clips to hold the brake lines tidy to the forks etc, as for clutch line, yes re-route back thru the forks and go direct from headstock to bars' this is how i did mine and works fine, i also managed to re-route the throttle cables and they also work fine on full lock either direction, mines just passed its mot too'''..my upbar conversion cost me less than £100 for all the bits i needed, as i was gonna order the 998 kit..anymore questions just ask;)


Thanks mate, apreciate it.
The present brake hoses run through rubber sleeving by the headstock which i presume is for wear resistance, anti chaffing etc, is it wise to run the new braided hoses back through these?
Phil

[lee67]

i didnt, i just fixed em using a ss p clip, to the original fixing point just below the headstock...and also used p clips to hold the lines down the forks ie use the orignal fork fixing points looks very tidy

[xXBADGERXx]

The clutch cable will have to be re-routed with the ABM kit to give you enough reach to the bars .

[lee67]

ive told him that already;)

[Specialone]

The clutch cable will have to be re-routed with the ABM kit to give you enough reach to the bars .

ive told him that already;)

Done that, thanks guys.



i didnt, i just fixed em using a ss p clip, to the original fixing point just below the headstock...and also used p clips to hold the lines down the forks ie use the orignal fork fixing points looks very tidy

I'll do that also, cheers.
One more thing, the guys at 998cc.com have decided to send me the wrong braided lines, the threads on the banjos are totally different, not even close.
So god knows what i'm gonna do now, it took me nearly 4 weeks to get the kit.
As far as i know its only the brakes that need doing now.;)
Phil

[Sean_C]

Done that, thanks guys.





I'll do that also, cheers.
One more thing, the idiots at 998cc.com have decided to send me the wrong braided lines, the threads on the banjos are totally different, not even close.
So god knows what i'm gonna do now, it took me nearly 4 weeks to get the kit.
As far as i know its only the brakes that need doing now.;)
Phil

The wrong bolts or the wrong lines?

[lee67]

i bet the banjo's are at the wrong angles for the mastercyl and calipers''....i recently spoke to HEL' and they have had alot of returns due to this, most sv's are diff angles' for some bizarre reason..i measured the angles required and ordered that way....if i was u id ring 998' and tell em this, in the mean time the original ones will reach, there just a tad tight, but unbolt em under the headstock helps, untill u get the correct angled banjos/hoses

[Specialone]

The wrong bolts or the wrong lines?

Im guessing both, as lee said the angles dont look right to me, the stock ones had straight bits on both ends, the new ones are straight one end and cranked at about 10 degrees the other.
The threads on the banjo bolts are a fine thread whereas the stock ones are a course thread.

i bet the banjo's are at the wrong angles for the mastercyl and calipers''....i recently spoke to HEL' and they have had alot of returns due to this, most sv's are diff angles' for some bizarre reason..i measured the angles required and ordered that way....if i was u id ring 998' and tell em this, in the mean time the original ones will reach, there just a tad tight, but unbolt em under the headstock helps, untill u get the correct angled banjos/hoses

That might be difficult now as the banjo bolt on the master cyclinder would not come undone so had to put it in the vice, it bent a bit, but not split it or anything.
As mentioned above my stock lines seem straight with no angles, so not sure whats going on.
Thanks again for all your help fellas, it really helped relieve stress knowing its not me being a turd.
Phil

[Red Herring]

Have you checked the angles where the throttle cables go onto the front throttle body. On my K5 (which i think is going to be very similar to your K4) I tried running them up the right side of the headstock but this left them with a very sharp angle bend at the throttle body end. A sharp angle will stress the cables and lead to a premature failure.

[Specialone]

Have you checked the angles where the throttle cables go onto the front throttle body. On my K5 (which i think is going to be very similar to your K4) I tried running them up the right side of the headstock but this left them with a very sharp angle bend at the throttle body end. A sharp angle will stress the cables and lead to a premature failure.

I dont know if you mean me but mines a K7 and i have got the longer throttle cables, the only issue i have is the brake lines.

[Red Herring]

Sorry, yes my mistake. I meant Lee67 as he says in post No.5 that he routed his cables to the right......

[Specialone]

Sorry, yes my mistake. I meant Lee67 as he says in post No.5 that he routed his cables to the right......

I agree with lee on the throttle cables, there is only a little bit of extra length in the new cables so re-routed stock ones would have been fine on my bike but i didnt know that before.

[Red Herring]

In which case, as i said, you need to be very careful about the angles at which the cables leave the throttle bodies. In order to get them to go to the right of the headstock you need to turn them at a very acute angle and that causes a stress point. I ended up modifying the bracket on the body to ease the angle and running them up between the tank and frame rail.

[lee67]

yes rh' mine all sit fine upon leaving the throttle bodies...;)

[Matts-Yokes]

Hi Guys,

Just a couple of issue's here:

We dont send the "wrong" lines, we send the lines we order from HEL. The banjo fine/coarse thread problem is a well known issue for ALL suzuki motorcycles. It would appear that Suzuki use certain parts bins that contain the same brand or mastercylinders but some of them have course threads and some have fine threads. This is just a problem that can only be found by taking the brakelines off.

Its common and well known by most brakeline manufacturers.

Thanks Matt