View Full Version : Making my own heated grips controller
Alpinestarhero
30-08-09, 04:48 PM
My oxford heated grips controller reckons my battery is duff, and wont keep my heated grips turned on. The electrical system on my bike is absolutly fine. Will the heated grips work with e.g. the daytona heated grips switch?
What would I need to make my own controller? I'd use a 3-way switch...off, warm and warmer would be the settings. How can I make a circuit to do this? The grips take 2 amps each max I think.
I know nothing of electronics, its all a mystery to me.
Matt
Spiderman
30-08-09, 04:56 PM
Do you have one of the electronic controllers Matt? Cos my one does that too and it annoyed me so much i took it off.
I found it worked fine if only one grip at a time was being run by it tho. Didnt enjoy choosing whaich hand was warm on my winter commute tho, so decided they could both be.
If your is the electronic one we should amke a joint assault on Oxfords customer services mate. Grrrr!
there is a known fault wi the controllers, get onto oxford for a replacement, last time it was faulty grips...just wear better gloves
Alpinestarhero
30-08-09, 05:14 PM
Spidey - I am considering finding their premesis and lobbing the controller through the window. A brick will go first!
Lee; better gloves? If you can sling me some magic gloves which will enable me to retain the feel i get with summer gloves and the warmth of mitts designed to keep fingers warm in arctic conditions, i'll be gratefull!
Heated grips + handlebar muffs = warm toasty hands and the ability to wear nice, slim summer gloves all year round.
Any advance on my initial post?
Spiderman
30-08-09, 05:16 PM
let me know when you wanna go. Will bring my own brick :twisted:
Alpinestarhero
30-08-09, 05:23 PM
your brick, my controller.
I have found some emails that I sent to them last year, and have sent an email to oxford complaining about their unreliable product.
Dave20046
30-08-09, 05:55 PM
Can you not just fit a switch or is the wiring not just a simple circuit?
Spiderman
30-08-09, 06:06 PM
Its a variable temp control, the older ones were simple "dial" types from cool to hot. Mine just wont stay on for more than a micro second running both grips but wrks fine running one. Battery and electris on bike are both tip top.
Dunno if A* has the same issue?
Alpinestarhero
30-08-09, 06:18 PM
Its a variable temp control, the older ones were simple "dial" types from cool to hot. Mine just wont stay on for more than a micro second running both grips but wrks fine running one. Battery and electris on bike are both tip top.
Dunno if A* has the same issue?
havnt checked it running with one grip, but since I have two hands that need to keep warm...i wont bother, because I will still be annoyed :lol:
and yea, I have the same problem. Turn controller on, put onto whatever % heat (30, 40 or 75) and the grips turn off after what seems no time.
Useless. But i like having heated grips, and it would be cheaper (i assume!) to make my own circuit to switch them on / off (and also vary the heat) then buying heated gloves.
When i get a vfr800, i'll get official honda heated grips. They cant go wrong...right?
Why not try the ones they put on the V-Strom apparently they are the same as Honda use and they plug into the loom on a V-Strom(not sure if this would be the case with th SV though) dealer gave me a new V-Strom last week when my SV was in and I liked the hand guards + heated grips so much I bought the hand guards for mine £35 for original suzuki ones, winter bargin !
yorkie_chris
31-08-09, 08:47 AM
Nothing built in on the loom on SV. A simple switch might be too hot but would work fine.
You need a voltage divider I think
pointy s has an accessoery socket in the loom up behind the headlight;)
I'm not sure what current draw typical heated grips have.
This sort of thing (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=30310)would be suitable if it could cope with the current, this one is rated at 3A cont, 5A peak. It might be upgradeable with a replacement output stage for higher current, using the onboard duty cycle circuitry to control it. Being a duty cycle (PWM = pulse width modulated) type device it reduces the power efficiently (i.e. not by dumping) so easing the load on the bikes electrics.
Just a thought.
SoulKiss
01-09-09, 12:44 PM
Nothing built in on the loom on SV. A simple switch might be too hot but would work fine.
You need a voltage divider I think
I would have thought that the rotary controller would have just been a potentiometer with it controlling the heat via the amount of current passed.
I guess you *COULD* do it via voltage tho...
madness
01-09-09, 01:12 PM
I have Orford 'wrap around' heated grips that I only fit if riding any distance in the cold. They have a simple on/off switch. I switch them on, they get hot, and when my hands get too warm I turn them off for a while.
I would have thought that the rotary controller would have just been a potentiometer with it controlling the heat via the amount of current passed.
I guess you *COULD* do it via voltage tho...
you can't control current directly. V=IR :p
SoulKiss
01-09-09, 01:22 PM
you can't control current directly. V=IR :p
True - but as R in that is variable through a Pot, then it was just clumsy wording by me :P
True - but as R in that is variable through a Pot, then it was just clumsy wording by me :P
The problem with a pot is the current handling. The heaters get hot - to stop them getting so hot you reduce the voltage applied and therefore the current that goes to them. Doing this with a pot means that any voltage not dropped across the heaters gets dropped across the pot - therefore the same power dissipated in the pot as in the heaters. What do you get? one hot pot.
I think you'd need some kind of power transistor (and a pot) :D
IrishRob
01-09-09, 04:06 PM
I have got through 2 of the old style switch boxes - first one developed a loud rattle and worked no-more, 2nd one was stolen. Had considered the new switch until I read terrible reviews of them and I realised that a physical knob (no sniggering at the back) was much better than buttons.
Interested to see/hear what you come up with.
Alpinestarhero
02-09-09, 12:49 PM
Well i have been on the emails to oxford, they'll sell me an old style analouge one for about £14, discounted as a good-will gesture (I asked, they said ok).
Still rather make my own controller. I'm aware a simple potentiometer / variable resistor would get hot. Embee, I think I understand what you're on about, but im not completly certain...maybe you can PM me with what you mean in a more numpty-friendly langauge? I noticed the old analuge controler I had did have a sort of micro circuitry board, I suppose this was to pluse the power, not have a constant load and hence constant battery draw?
custard
02-09-09, 01:39 PM
pointy s has an accessoery socket in the loom up behind the headlight;)
would there happen to be one on the thou?
.. Embee, I think I understand what you're on about, but im not completly certain...maybe you can PM me with what you mean in a more numpty-friendly langauge? ....
I'll post something here, others with more electronickery knowledge can add/correct/expand as necessary.
The Maplins "speed controller" is just a variable mark-space device, in other words it switches the output on and off rapidly for varying proportions of time, the output is at full supply voltage when it's on. I don't know what frequency it runs at, for a simple resistive load like heated grips it doesn't matter, but it's often in the kHz range. The relative proportion of on/off is termed the duty cycle (usually in percentage terms. e.g. 50%) or mark-space ratio or similar, the "on" pulse width is "modulated", hence the term "pulse width modulated" or PWM.
In this manner it controls the power the device gets supplied with, it doesn't rely on "wasting" energy in order to do it.
You'd need to measure the resistance (or current demand) of the grips to decide whether it would be adequate.
The current rating of this unit is probably determined by the output device, and I guess it could be uprated by either substituting a larger device (transistor/thyristor?) or using it as it stands to drive an additional one. This is where my knowledge runs dry I'm afraid.
If you are adept at wielding a smouldering iron you could probably rig the control pot remotely from the board, making it neater and possibly improving weatherproofing.
It'll probably be cheaper/easier to buy a purpose made unit, the better ones will be this type of control circuit anyway.
Dave20046
21-09-09, 11:19 AM
You ever get one sorted alpine?
As it's getting colder and I have hotgrips fitted to the bike I'm thinking I may aswell get them working. My old controller blew just as I bought the bike, so need either a DIY one or a proper one.
Alpinestarhero
21-09-09, 12:02 PM
Right, forgot about this thread.
I complained to oxford customer services, who sold me one of the other analouge controllers at a discounted price (15 quid instead of 22)
If you are unhappy with your heated grips controller, moan to them. They may be good to you and help you out.
I took heavily into acount what embee said about how the controller works (it phases the switch on/off/on/off, not just constantly on and dumping the excess electrical energy as heat at the resistor) and oxford helped me out
So, i should have warm toasty hands this winter, hurrah
However, as a side project, i may look into making one, and then if it works I can make a guide and people can then use that guide and improve.
fastdruid
21-09-09, 12:08 PM
Hmm, when my Oxford controller died I got another controller for 5 quid from the bike show the other year. As it's also failed[1] I think I'll try and get another one from there!
Especially as at this rate of healing it'll probably be December before I get to ride a bike again. :-/
Druid
[1] Ish, you can sometimes get it to come on.
Just wire in a switch. Hands get cold, turn on. Hands get too hot, ride faster. :cool:
Dave20046
21-09-09, 12:56 PM
That's my thinking at the mo :)
Can anyone foresee any issues with this?
Less bulky then the crappy controllers too.
That's my thinking at the mo :)
Can anyone foresee any issues with this?
Less bulky then the crappy controllers too.
it was a serious suggestion - just make sure the switch can handle the current. My grips are usually off or set to MAX. No point in owt in between, imho.
Dave20046
21-09-09, 01:07 PM
I know , I was being serious. I was considering it the other day just wondered if it made any odds. Can you get switches with an LED to indicate they are getting power? I don't see why not...
Can you get switches with an LED to indicate they are getting power? I don't see why not...
you can, although i'd be more worried about getting a properly waterproof switch.
Dave20046
21-09-09, 01:28 PM
you can, although i'd be more worried about getting a properly waterproof switch.
Touché! Very good point. Anyone know of any online electrical shops? even with paying for postage I'm sure it'll be cheaper than the likes of maplins - plus I need a LED sidelight while I'm there.
fastdruid
21-09-09, 01:44 PM
Farnell or RS?
Druid
Dave20046
21-09-09, 02:17 PM
Just had a though the switch would need to connect the input to two outputs each with a positive & a negative terminal, or would just a 3 pin witch suffice?
(electrics are a weak point!)
Cheers fd will google 'em
fastdruid
21-09-09, 02:20 PM
http://uk.farnell.com/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
Druid
(electrics are a weak point!)
Indeed. The switch just needs to put a break in the live side of the circuit. It just does the same as cutting a wire. 2 connections, one wired to your live feed, the other wired to the grips. The 2nd wire coming out of the grips needs to go to an earth point.
fastdruid
21-09-09, 02:31 PM
Personally I'd use a relay, allows a smaller switch and neater wiring.
Druid
Dave20046
21-09-09, 04:07 PM
Personally I'd use a relay, allows a smaller switch and neater wiring.
Druid
Cheers for the links
At the moment I have a couple of wires coming from the ignition with a block connector on and then 2 wires coming from each grip with a block connector on. As I understand it that means the grips can't draw any power unless the ignition is on and I'll require a waterproof switch; ignition positive to one pin and earth the other cable(?) both positives from the grips to the other pin and the black wires to earth.
That about right?
fastdruid
21-09-09, 04:38 PM
Yep pretty much.
From memory the connectors on the oxfords are identical to RC model car battery connectors and can be easily sourced, I'd use them rather than hack the cables, makes it *far* easier to go back at a later date or just even to mess about.
Anyway, you want to connect the black from the ign to *both* blacks from the handlebars, you then want to as you say connect the red from the ign to one side of the switch/relay and the two reds from the handlebars to the other side, if you are using a relay you then want to connect one side of the activating coil to earth and then run another wire from the connection from the ign, through a switch to the other side of the activating coil.
Oh and make sure you have it fused. ;-)
Druid
Dave20046
21-09-09, 04:59 PM
Yep pretty much.
From memory the connectors on the oxfords are identical to RC model car battery connectors and can be easily sourced, I'd use them rather than hack the cables, makes it *far* easier to go back at a later date or just even to mess about.
Anyway, you want to connect the black from the ign to *both* blacks from the handlebars, you then want to as you say connect the red from the ign to one side of the switch/relay and the two reds from the handlebars to the other side, if you are using a relay you then want to connect one side of the activating coil to earth and then run another wire from the connection from the ign, through a switch to the other side of the activating coil.
Oh and make sure you have it fused. ;-)
Druid
Right all that made sense up until relay and fuse :(. Would it not be using the ignition's fuse like the oxford set up was? (when the oxfrod controller blew it took the ignition fuse with it). Only experience I've had with relays is chopping bits out of the SV's multifunction one.
Sorry for bein thick!
fastdruid
21-09-09, 05:11 PM
Depends, it should have been installed with it's own fuse so that if it went it didn't blow the main fuse...
Big fat slap for whoever installed that!
In which case, I personally would install a new fused wire from the battery + to one relay connector, then use the existing wire from the ign to the activating coil of the relay.
Druid
Ceri JC
22-09-09, 10:37 AM
Not directly related to how you do it, but just to add my twopennethworth: I think off, warm and warmer is plenty of control. Coming from an "infinite" range of settings on my previous bike, I thought I'd miss it, but it's fine.
Dave20046
22-09-09, 11:02 AM
Depends, it should have been installed with it's own fuse so that if it went it didn't blow the main fuse...
Big fat slap for whoever installed that!
In which case, I personally would install a new fused wire from the battery + to one relay connector, then use the existing wire from the ign to the activating coil of the relay.
Druid
Shh he'll moderate you :lol:
Sorry to be a **** but someone's going to have to explain relays to me (or a link? ) I've never wired one in or ever seen one so lost on the 'activiating coil' bit. Or would it be self explanatory when I buy a relay?
fastdruid
22-09-09, 11:38 AM
Shh he'll moderate you :lol:
lol, I stand by my words, a failure of the heated grips should NEVER leave you stranded.
Sorry to be a **** but someone's going to have to explain relays to me (or a link? ) I've never wired one in or ever seen one so lost on the 'activiating coil' bit. Or would it be self explanatory when I buy a relay?
Quite alright, not being an **** not to know something!
Ok so a relay essentially is just a switch except that instead of someone flicking the switch an electromagnetic coil does the work, so you have exactly the same wiring as a switch (including all the same options, SPST, DPDT etc) plus two extra connectors for the activating coil. The normal way to do things is to have a low voltage manually switched which triggers a far higher voltage switched by the relay.
Have a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay but if I may steal an image off there;
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/8/89/Relay_symbols.gif
The curly bit on the side is the activating coil, you'd typically use a SPST for this kind of use and connect 'A' to a fused wire from the battery, 'B' to the heated grips and then the activating coil as previously mentioned linked to earth and through a switch to a feed that is on when the ign is on.
Druid
The normal way to do things is to have a low voltage manually switched which triggers a far higher voltage switched by the relay.
In this case its for current, not voltage - you can use a puny small switch to control the relay, which can, if necessary, be a big chunky high current device tucked away somewhere.
If I was doing it the first time I'd keep things simple with just a big switch instead. If I was doing it a second time i'd probably do something flashy like this.
You could get REALLY clever and use a temperature sensor instead of a manual switch :smt106
fastdruid
22-09-09, 12:02 PM
In this case its for current, not voltage - you can use a puny small switch to control the relay, which can, if necessary, be a big chunky high current device tucked away somewhere.
Ooops, yes, I meant current :-) Although it can also be for voltage, eg a 12v switch operation 240v.
Druid
fastdruid
22-09-09, 12:06 PM
If I was doing it the first time I'd keep things simple with just a big switch instead. If I was doing it a second time i'd probably do something flashy like this.
My next clever thing I think of doing is rigging up heated levers, I find that the heated grips are ace but if your in any situation where you've covering the brakes or having to use the clutch a lot my fingers suffer. I could just use muffs but they look crap, I like the idea of just being able to turn it on of a chilly evening.
You could get REALLY clever and use a temperature sensor instead of a manual switch :smt106
Could be tricky.
Druid
My next clever thing I think of doing is rigging up heated levers
There could be a market for those you know. I suffer similarly. Although my heated grips don't get hot unless my hand is wrapped round them, so levers could suck a lot of power.
fastdruid
22-09-09, 02:35 PM
On another thread I posted a link to the wikipedia page for PVM, at the bottom was a link to this page
http://www.eleinmec.com/article.asp?28 which describes a simple circuit using two 555's and a TIP31C, total cost is given as £7.35 (but I don't know how old it is) and should be able to cope with 40w or about 3A
Now 3A is possibly a bit low as Oxford say the grips pull "under 4A" but replace the TIP31C with something higher rated such as if I'm reading the table correctly a BD243C and you could have something, bit of strip board, some potting compound and some connectors and you have a controller. I think I may be making a maplins order... :lol:
Druid
Dave20046
23-09-09, 05:02 PM
I think I'm going to cave and buy the oxford thing :( I've not even got to fitting the circuit and stumbled at the first hurdle.
Just as a headsup, if you're looking for an on-off switch, the wraparound version has exactly that. Might be worth looking for a busted version of those as an alternative.
Dave20046
23-09-09, 05:21 PM
Just as a headsup, if you're looking for an on-off switch, the wraparound version has exactly that. Might be worth looking for a busted version of those as an alternative.
Ebay doesn't list any busted ones :(
Just got my new Hot grips ....
Controller POR 03881/09 ...... what are my chances ?? Is this the latest controller .... or an old one thats been sat in the stock room lol. ??
http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq313/jimmyhibbs/utf-8BSU1HMDAxMDItMjAwOTA5MjQtMTMzO.jpg
Alpinestarhero
24-09-09, 02:23 PM
I believe that is not quite the latest controller (the very latest ones are digital with an on/off switch) but that is the model I have had problems with. It could be my bike; a pointy with its beefier battery might mean you dont have probs
yorkie_chris
24-09-09, 04:06 PM
ASH, why the devil should battery capacity affect things under steady state conditions?
Dave20046
24-09-09, 05:54 PM
My controller's an even earlier one with a wheel that you press as the on off switch.
Alpinestarhero
24-09-09, 06:11 PM
ASH, why the devil should battery capacity affect things under steady state conditions?
No spiffing idea actually old bean. Its the only reason I can think of as to why I'm having problems with that controller...
matikus_os
24-09-09, 08:37 PM
Just got my new Hot grips ....
Controller POR 03881/09 ...... what are my chances ?? Is this the latest controller .... or an old one thats been sat in the stock room lol. ??
I have the same problem with this bl00dy controller on my curvy!!
Seems to be ok after 10 mins when the bike warms up though...? Not what you want in the winter is it...
Dave20046
25-09-09, 08:45 AM
Right I've moaned to oxford and with a bit of encouragement they've offered me a controller for £16.19, which I'm considering.
Thanks for all your help though everyone, particularly fast druid but I'm just too dim so I guess I'll end up doing the easier slightly more expensive option.
However, I still fancy adding a fuse to the hotgrips controller so it won't take out my ignition again. Is it just as simple as putting a fuse inline in one of the wires coming away from the ignition?
yorkie_chris
25-09-09, 09:28 AM
The only way to be sure is with a relay.
Dave20046
25-09-09, 09:33 AM
The only way to be sure is with a relay.
Crap, looked at relays on farnell, narrowed it down to 12v automobile ones then got lost in all the options :-?
I thought if I can't even buy the thing how the feck am I gonna fit it.
markc123
25-09-09, 11:51 AM
Has anyone tested the voltage at the controller (boths grips off and on)? Sounds like its got some kind of voltage monitoring circuit which cuts off if the voltage is low.
If you are pulling power from somewhere up front, there could already be a significant voltage drop from all the existing wiring and therefore the extra load of the grips might drop the voltage low enought for it to cut out.
If so, a direct (fused ;)) feed from battery to grips should fix things.
Just a thought!
Has anyone tested the voltage at the controller (boths grips off and on)? Sounds like its got some kind of voltage monitoring circuit which cuts off if the voltage is low.
If you are pulling power from somewhere up front, there could already be a significant voltage drop from all the existing wiring and therefore the extra load of the grips might drop the voltage low enought for it to cut out.
If so, a direct (fused ;)) feed from battery to grips should fix things.
Just a thought!
This is how the instructions come ..... does it make a difference ??
Would it make a difference sticking the negative, rather than the positive, on a 'ignition related' circuit ??
Fitting mine soon - so helpful to know .... was going down the positive ignition circuit route
fastdruid
25-09-09, 12:16 PM
This is how the instructions come ..... does it make a difference ??
Would it make a difference sticking the negative, rather than the positive, on a 'ignition related' circuit ??
Fitting mine soon - so helpful to know .... was going down the positive ignition circuit route
There are no switched 'negative' 'related' circuits so no.
I fitted mine directly to the battery but then I've a couple of times left it on and it's drained the battery, I keep meaning to re-wire it up off a relay to the Fuel Pump relay[1] but never got around to it.
Druid
[1] On my VFR _only_ on when the engine is running.
markc123
25-09-09, 12:25 PM
Yeah my idea wouls also need a relay so you dont run the batt flat. Its just an idea, needs someone with iffy grips and a multimeter to confirm :cool:. I have not the funds to go buying things like this yet, must sell one of these evil cars!
Dave20046
25-09-09, 04:14 PM
I nicked a modern type controller (photo'd a page or so previous) off a mates bike, when I press 'on' it does nothing if I press and hold 'on', the blue light on 50% comes on for about a second or two and then goes away :scratch:
That mean anything to anyone?
Dave20046
25-09-09, 05:13 PM
I nicked a modern type controller (photo'd a page or so previous) off a mates bike, when I press 'on' it does nothing if I press and hold 'on', the blue light on 50% comes on for about a second or two and then goes away :scratch:
That mean anything to anyone?
Found the problem.....wish I hadn't. It's works fine when sat at above 1.5k revs, I take it this suggests my battery or reg rec is knackered ? :(
I thiink the controller unit's have a cut off thing when they detect sub 12v, start up and tick over the hot grips won't stay on for but hold it at 1.5k+ revs it'll happily sit at 100%.
Would I be wrong in optimisticly thinking the problem might go away after a nice long run? (the bikes been sat for a week).
yorkie_chris
25-09-09, 05:23 PM
Might do.
Maybe controller and charging system is fine and you just have a bad connection?
Dave20046
25-09-09, 07:03 PM
Might do.
Maybe controller and charging system is fine and you just have a bad connection?
It didn't seem random enough to be a bad connection :( it was just like there was a switch at 1.5k revs
yorkie_chris
26-09-09, 01:29 AM
Resistant connection somewhere could act fairly repeatably, check charging system to rule it out.
Spiderman
26-09-09, 12:25 PM
I believe that is not quite the latest controller (the very latest ones are digital with an on/off switch) but that is the model I have had problems with. It could be my bike; a pointy with its beefier battery might mean you dont have probs
its the same controller that i have on my pointy and it keeps switching itself off. This bike has no wiring or battery issues so i just know its the crap quality item from Oxford.
So no one has made their own controller yet i guess from the last few posts on here??
Dave20046
26-09-09, 01:08 PM
Resistant connection somewhere could act fairly repeatably, check charging system to rule it out.
Yeah - I'll nick a multimeter off someone. Hope it's oxford and not suzuki :rolleyes:
Spidey - sorry I'm too stoopid :smt053
MattCollins
26-09-09, 03:04 PM
Crap, looked at relays on farnell, narrowed it down to 12v automobile ones then got lost in all the options :-?
I thought if I can't even buy the thing how the feck am I gonna fit it.
Dave, any 4 or 5 pin 20-30A automotive lighting relay will do the job.
Spiderman
26-09-09, 03:08 PM
Spidey - sorry I'm too stoopid :smt053
Me too mate. Just hoping someone will make a simple thing and then post up some simple instructions.
Just come across these fleabay jobbies (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__pwm+control_W0QQ_dmdZ2?rvr_id=&crlp=1472790101_228459_228460&UA=WXI7&GUID=f92024f71230a0aad1e53855fd29791b&agid=709127801&MT_ID=10&keyword=pwm+control&ff4=228459_228460#item2a0148efdb)
15A is plenty, hide it away somewhere convenient, all you need to do is either find a dry spot for the pot or source a weatherproof equivalent, these sort (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=1002377+351664+5045077&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&prevNValues=1002377+351664+5045077&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN% 3D1002377%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedpa rametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_UK) are IP67 rated, should be suitable.
Spiderman
01-12-09, 08:19 PM
Just come across these fleabay jobbies (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__pwm+control_W0QQ_dmdZ2?rvr_id=&crlp=1472790101_228459_228460&UA=WXI7&GUID=f92024f71230a0aad1e53855fd29791b&agid=709127801&MT_ID=10&keyword=pwm+control&ff4=228459_228460#item2a0148efdb)
15A is plenty, hide it away somewhere convenient, all you need to do is either find a dry spot for the pot or source a weatherproof equivalent, these sort (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=1002377+351664+5045077&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&prevNValues=1002377+351664+5045077&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN% 3D1002377%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedpa rametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_UK) are IP67 rated, should be suitable.
Hey Embee
Did you ever get something put together to fix this? Now the cold is getting here i really want to get my grips hot. Fingers crossed you tell me it was very cheap and very easy!!
As an update on this issue... i scoured the Ofxford products webiste and found this little gem...
OF695 FAQ and solutions to Hotgrip problems (http://www.oxprod.com/index.php?pg=92) which seems to me a lot of faf tbh. I looked at my control unit and its not a very 1st gen one but equally it has no number on the back of it.
Also since the grips were not wired in by me but were already on the bike when i bought it i have no idea about where the wires are hooked up too. I guess i can try and trace them back but tbh unless it said all that stuff they are now saying in the original fitting guide i think they really have an obligation to replace it free of charge under warranty as its clearly not fit for purpose.
Anyway, thats a long argument i guess, tho i have found some evidence on the net of peeps having been sent free replacement controllers.
Dave20046
01-12-09, 08:27 PM
Hey Embee
Did you ever get something put together to fix this? Now the cold is getting here i really want to get my grips hot. Fingers crossed you tell me it was very cheap and very easy!!
As an update on this issue... i scoured the Ofxford products webiste and found this little gem...
OF695 FAQ and solutions to Hotgrip problems (http://www.oxprod.com/index.php?pg=92) which seems to me a lot of faf tbh. I looked at my control unit and its not a very 1st gen one but equally it has no number on the back of it.
Also since the grips were not wired in by me but were already on the bike when i bought it i have no idea about where the wires are hooked up too. I guess i can try and trace them back but tbh unless it said all that stuff they are now saying in the original fitting guide i think they really have an obligation to replace it free of charge under warranty as its clearly not fit for purpose.
Anyway, thats a long argument i guess, tho i have found some evidence on the net of peeps having been sent free replacement controllers.
Had this argument with them myself, set of cnuts. I'm not dealing with em again, berlin was telling me about 'mr grips' or similar the other day, jamesmio also rates daytona (possibly?) grips. In the end I accepted the £16 for the replacement controller, they took weeks and a prompt by email to send it out.
Dave20046
01-12-09, 08:28 PM
PS. Looks like it was suzuki at fault (in ref to my post at the top of the page)
Spiderman
01-12-09, 08:38 PM
And the new one you bought fitted right in and worked a treat did it Dave?
I did read the above posts and just like you....i get so far before it just baffles me.
Dave20046
01-12-09, 08:55 PM
And the new one you bought fitted right in and worked a treat did it Dave?
I did read the above posts and just like you....i get so far before it just baffles me.
The replacement they sent me works better, however still turns itsself off occasionally (about 10x less that the last), although I needed a replacement anyway as the original blew up and the last one I had (that turned itself off) was off a mates bike.
Anyhoo since then i've run my charging systems' voltages past the orgs resident sv god and he's confirmed my bikes electrics are shoddy.
rictus01
01-12-09, 09:09 PM
I got a set of HG grips (rebadged oxford ones), from the BMF, they came with a faulty controller (the electronic one) but as they were sold as such and were only a fiver I can't complain, i retro fitted a rotary three position switch giving off/ start & warm, works a treat.
Cheers Mark.
where did you get the rotary controller, Rictus? From another set of heated grips?
....and in case you're worried about running your battery down, simply wire one of these chappies (http://www.brocott.co.uk/electronic-devices/power-modules/20-amp-battery-guard-accu-saver-adjustable-settings-p-933.html?osCsid=3ov8fgp3vr4t1cl6hc366fipo8eo14sv) into the supply and set the switching voltage at whatever you feel comfortable with.
....and in case you're worried about running your battery down, simply wire one of these chappies (http://www.brocott.co.uk/electronic-devices/power-modules/20-amp-battery-guard-accu-saver-adjustable-settings-p-933.html?osCsid=3ov8fgp3vr4t1cl6hc366fipo8eo14sv) into the supply and set the switching voltage at whatever you feel comfortable with.
or just wire the grips to an ignition switched feed?
rictus01
01-12-09, 10:57 PM
where did you get the rotary controller, Rictus? From another set of heated grips?
the first was actually from a battery isolation switch box, but was a bit bulky, I've since changed it to the controller off a set of Daytons grips, which is much the same but smaller.
or just wire the grips to an ignition switched feed?
wire the relay to and ignition circuit, not the grips themselves as the draw could melt wires.
Cheers Mark.
tigersaw
01-12-09, 10:59 PM
....and in case you're worried about running your battery down, simply wire one of these chappies (http://www.brocott.co.uk/electronic-devices/power-modules/20-amp-battery-guard-accu-saver-adjustable-settings-p-933.html?osCsid=3ov8fgp3vr4t1cl6hc366fipo8eo14sv) into the supply and set the switching voltage at whatever you feel comfortable with.
Odd design that. Cutoff in the negative line, which will do diddly for things connected to chassis, and using a MOS instead of a relay, which has its own voltage drop and gets hot.
xXBADGERXx
01-12-09, 11:29 PM
My mate has the rotary pot version of the hot Grips and has had them for Donkey`s Years , swears by the Pot and won`t touch the new ones . Not had a single issue with it . I , on the other hand , have had 2 controllers of the "Press and Hold for 3 Seconds" variety .
Sid Squid
01-12-09, 11:39 PM
Find a suitable three way switch and connect such that there are two heated positions: Connected in parallel for hot, in series for warm.
And use a relay fired by the ignition switch for the supply, obviously.
Find a suitable three way switch and connect such that there are two heated positions: Connected in parallel for hot, in series for warm.
Now that's clever!
Spiderman
01-12-09, 11:52 PM
yeh its brilliant piece of work...just wish i knew what, where and how now, lol.
Dave20046
02-12-09, 09:42 AM
My mate has the rotary pot version of the hot Grips and has had them for Donkey`s Years , swears by the Pot and won`t touch the new ones . Not had a single issue with it . I , on the other hand , have had 2 controllers of the "Press and Hold for 3 Seconds" variety .
my analog one blew up
Alpinestarhero
02-12-09, 09:45 AM
New problem:
dodgy connection to throttle grip. Diganosis: some sort of crud in the block connector. I clean it and clean it but it keeps coming back :rolleyes:. A permanent connection is probably the answer!
Dave20046
02-12-09, 09:47 AM
New problem:
dodgy connection to throttle grip. Diganosis: some sort of crud in the block connector. I clean it and clean it but it keeps coming back :rolleyes:. A permanent connection is probably the answer!
Clean it and seal it with ignition sealer or whatever it's called
Find a suitable three way switch and connect such that there are two heated positions: Connected in parallel for hot, in series for warm.
And use a relay fired by the ignition switch for the supply, obviously.
Yeah, that is clever ...
I'd need to draw myself a diagram of how to do it though !!! :D
xXBADGERXx
02-12-09, 12:17 PM
I sealed mine with big heatshrink , then plugged the ends up with silicone .
I'm raising this thread again as my controller is duff - Oxford have proved less than helpful over several calls in the last two weeks, in obtaining a replacement controller, however, I'm still pursuing them for some sort resolution. I believe the controllers they're selling are not fit for purpose - they should last much longer.
On another note, does anyone know if the Oxford Cruiser Hot Grip controller would work with the standard grips? They say no, but as both are listed to draw less than 4 amps, can't see why not. I believe Oxford are full of nonsense.
Also, a friend who's good with electronics has offered to take a look at my bust controller and see if he can trace the issue and repair - if that happens of course, I'll post it up.
Spiderman
17-12-09, 06:15 PM
..however, I'm still pursuing them for some sort resolution. I believe the controllers they're selling are not fit for purpose - they should last much longer.
See, this is what my approach to them would be too. I suggest we get a group email/letter to them stating that its not just a one off issue and its nothing to do with how the grips were wired up but solely to do with the controller not being fit for purpose and as such should be their responsibility to replace free of charge immediately.
I think that fact that people are approaching them individually has made them realise they can fob a few off and replace a few.
I trawled a few other bike forums and saw this was a problem for a large number of people. Some had said they got a new controller free, other had paid for theirs.
If we make a list of peeps on here who have this problem and go to Oxford as a group i think we stand a good chance of getting the latest controller off them for free since their product is clearly inferior.
Cheers for the links
At the moment I have a couple of wires coming from the ignition with a block connector on and then 2 wires coming from each grip with a block connector on. As I understand it that means the grips can't draw any power unless the ignition is on and I'll require a waterproof switch; ignition positive to one pin and earth the other cable(?) both positives from the grips to the other pin and the black wires to earth.
That about right?
Correct, I wired them into the spare fuse connector. so only get power if ingition is on. So i didn't get a flat battery if I forgot to turn them off Dave. :smt105
Depends, it should have been installed with it's own fuse so that if it went it didn't blow the main fuse...
Big fat slap for whoever installed that!
In which case, I personally would install a new fused wire from the battery + to one relay connector, then use the existing wire from the ign to the activating coil of the relay.
Druid
It was me, and if you want to slap me, In here big boy...:smt062 ;-) and I didn't believe for one moment that if the controler was to blow it would take out the main fuse.
never was very good with electrics BTW. now sledge hammers are different... ;-)
See, this is what my approach to them would be too. I suggest we get a group email/letter to them stating that its not just a one off issue and its nothing to do with how the grips were wired up but solely to do with the controller not being fit for purpose and as such should be their responsibility to replace free of charge immediately.
I think that fact that people are approaching them individually has made them realise they can fob a few off and replace a few.
I trawled a few other bike forums and saw this was a problem for a large number of people. Some had said they got a new controller free, other had paid for theirs.
If we make a list of peeps on here who have this problem and go to Oxford as a group i think we stand a good chance of getting the latest controller off them for free since their product is clearly inferior.
Not sure when my friend is going to pick this one up, but he said that it's likely he will be able to identify whether the product has a design fault. I don't know him that well, and only mentioned in passing today, but I will chase it up, it's unlikely to be this side of Christmas I would think, but will keep you posted.
They put me on to infinity for spares, who never returned my call, but chappy there said everyone at infinity use the old style controller.
Spiderman
17-12-09, 09:47 PM
Just update this thread when you get the info please Boot. I've been keeping an eye on fleabay for the old style controller but as you can imagine they just dont come up very often.
vBulletin® , Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.