View Full Version : back break sux k3
barwel1992
11-10-09, 11:26 PM
well reading some of the posts on hear the back brake dosent seem that bad on the newer bikes k3+ if this is so then thers somthing wrong with my break as it s*cks verry badly as far as im aware it is still on stock pads and has never been bled and the pad has loads of ware left so could this be just because of lack of use ?
i know the sv (curvey) back brake was uter *hite as my mum had one but not sure about the new one
if they arnt that bad then what could be wrong and how would i corect it
also im coming from a bike with brembo's that were prety good (locked back up in the wet even if you taped it)
want to get this sorted now that i have the gixxer shock in and done :D:smt066
rictus01
12-10-09, 12:12 AM
utter rubbish, the back brake on both the curvy and pointy was and is fine, it'll lock the wheel on either, of course that's if it's well looked after, just ignore it and it'll obviously loose efficiency.
When was it last serviced ?/ are the pads contaninated or glazed/ how's the disk/ are the slide bolts greased ?
all these will effect how it works.
Cheers Mark.
barwel1992
12-10-09, 12:25 AM
ok well my mum begs to differ about the curvey and hers was new, but any way the bike was last serviced at 15000 miles and now has 16000 (800 done buy me) i use the brake but dosent seem to do any thing unless doing below 20mph the fluid looks fine and hasent gone black and the pads look ok, as dose the disk i cleaned then with disk cleaner and it got slightly better but not mutch also the lever seems realy spungy and i have to realy stomp on it for it to work a bit, needs bleeding?
i will look at the stuf you sead :) sould i use coper grease on the slide bolts ? or just any old grease ?
and can the brake be adjusted at the master cylinder as there are some bolts there that look almost like stops and i dont mean the lever adjust bolts, the ones near the rubber seal
thanks
rictus01
12-10-09, 01:28 AM
Mine was also from new, serviced every 3 months regularly an was fine for the 153,000 miles I used it :smt102, whilst it's true the feel of the back brake is less and also through your boot as opposed to your glove (like the front) and of course a single disc and single piston acting on it (again unlike the front which is twin disc and eight pistons) so the effect will never be the same at all, but that doesn't mean it's not proportional.
No the brake travel isn't adjuastable along the hydrolic link although the position of the foot lever is adjustable via the thread on the bottom of the master cylinder.
whether it needs bleeding or you have drag from the seals I don't know, but the slide bolts can be greased with just about any grease you have.
Remove the pads and check the outer dust seal is intact, clean any build up brake dust from the caliper body and piston, making sure not to scratch it, smeer the seal with red rubber grease, the BACK of the pads can be smeered with copper grease when replacing, also worth smeering the pad pins as these tend to rust badly if neglected.
Cheers Mark.
barwel1992
12-10-09, 07:30 AM
ok thanks :) will get on to it asap
yorkie_chris
12-10-09, 12:31 PM
Just use normal grease on the slides, I don't think copperslip would be well suited.
barwel1992
12-10-09, 12:52 PM
well i draged the back break some of the way to colage and its biting a lot better but will do what as been sead any way
yorkie_chris
12-10-09, 06:12 PM
unlike the front which is twin disc and eight pistons)
Pedant; 4 pistons.
all bike back brake's are useless if they were good they'd have you off.
Sideshow#36
12-10-09, 07:37 PM
Pedant; 4 pistons.
Beat me to it. ;)
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