removing a "scr*wed" screw from the top of the front brake rez

[barwel1992]

well the person befor has screwed the scr*wed the screw head up so the possie drive cannot grip in to it at all im thinking the best way would be to remove the head (drill) then remove the other screw and cut a slot to fit a screw driver in there and get it out but im not sure how much of the to will be left when the screw head is removed (can some on tell me ?)

or is there a easy way to get it out may be ?

ps i want to get it out so i can replace it not of any other reson atm

[7755matt]

I dont think you'll have enough of the screw remainingto groove and remove if you drill the head out, you'd probablyt need to drill the screw shaft and use an ezee out or similar.

Could you lightly tap a flat head in across any remaining parts of the pozi head?

[Dave20046]

Ive dremmeled a slot in one before, also drilled out and retapped. bish bash boosh

[barwel1992]

was just looking and that idea

im going to try and get a dremel in there may screw up the rez top but will get a new one, what im planing is to cut a prety big slot in it and then jam a bigish flat head in there :/

[21QUEST]

Unfaired SV, I take it? .

If it is, just use a small flat blade screw driver as a drift(set at an angle of of course) and try gently tapping it...first tap should be swift but still gentle to break any seal.


Cheers
Ben

[barwel1992]

^^ ok cheers will try it

by the way can i remove the top and not have to worry about bleeding it or any thing ? as i want to get this sorted befor i replace the barke lines

im going to practice bleeding my mountain bike brakes first as they are exactly the same set up as my sv ones

and yes its the Naked version :)

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.


Obtain a small sharp centre punch, & using a small percussive adjuster (hammer) firstly tap the screw sharply in its mangled centre, & then try to tap the screw in an anti-clockwise direction, using the punch on the outer circumference of the screw head. It works from me 99% of the time.
If trying this on a plastic type reservoir bottle will have to get someone to hold it steady when you attempt this, or it will wobble about like a wobbly thing.:D

By the way the screws are Phillips screws, & not Pozi-Drive.:D


Cheers.

[Dave20046]

by the way can i remove the top and not have to worry about bleeding it or any thing ? as i want to get this sorted befor i replace the barke lines

correct

[barwel1992]

cheers both ^^

will have a look at it when i get home, going to order some stainles steel alen bolts

[MrTom]

I had exactly the same problem a couple of weeks ago. Centre punch method was the answer.

[Red Herring]

I had exactly the same problem on my Divvy (winter hack, annual maintenance). I just popped a 6mm nut on top of the knackered head and then dropped some epoxy metal glue in, left it overnight and in the morning undid the nut... So good it's still like that now...

[Dave20046]

I had exactly the same problem on my Divvy (winter hack, annual maintenance). I just popped a 6mm nut on top of the knackered head and then dropped some epoxy metal glue in, left it overnight and in the morning undid the nut... So good it's still like that now...
:confused: wow! I once welded an allen key to a bolt and it sheered at the welds before the bolt gave in.
You've given me a bit more confidence in epoxy glue though though, I've currently got something in the garage setting - first time i've tried it.

[Red Herring]

It depends on the size of the bolts... These ones are very small and the knackered Phillips drive usually provides plenty of bonding area for the epoxy.

[barwel1992]

^^ hmm that way i dont have to buy a punch (have one but its to big) what i will do is hit it down to losen it then glue the nut on get it off then get new ones :)

[Red Herring]

Good luck, don't forget to put some copperslip on the new bolts, not just the threads but on the countersunk surface as well, otherwise you'll have the same problem next time.

[xXBADGERXx]

You want a small set of stud extractors and some very good High Speed Steel Drills , this will save you loads of faffery , and a can of Plusgas is a good thing to have as an SV owner too .

[barwel1992]

i would use that method badger but the high speed drill i have spins only one way (to the left i think) so dont thing it would work ?

[xXBADGERXx]

You can buy a left handed drill bit you know ;) , they can sometimes grab into a screw and undo it for you .

[barwel1992]

ok well i have decided to get a pro bolt top cap that comes with bolts so migh just get the dremel out as the other one wont be going back on so might as well save my self some cash and do it the cheep way

and i wanted to replace the cap any way :)

ohh and any one tell me a good upgrade on master cylinder (just wondering) max £50

[Dave20046]

m/c upg. not required. dremmel doesn't damage the top cap? :scratch:

[xXBADGERXx]

ohh and any one tell me a good upgrade on master cylinder (just wondering) max £50

Why do you need to upgrade the Master Cylinder ?

[Red Herring]

You can buy a left handed drill bit you know ;) , they can sometimes grab into a screw and undo it for you .

Problem is you then need to find someone who is left handed to use it for you.;)

[barwel1992]

dipends how far i need to cut in :/

and just wondering wether there was a better option was purley a thorght

[barwel1992]

right new rez cap and bolts are on there way :D also decided to order a titanium rear pad pin while i was at it, will be ordering some other bit from pro bolt like shift linkage (arm) and other bits and bobs wish they did black stainles engine bolts :/

[xXBADGERXx]

right new rez cap and bolts are on there way :D also decided to order a titanium rear pad pin while i was at it, will be ordering some other bit from pro bolt like shift linkage (arm) and other bits and bobs wish they did black stainles engine bolts :/

I bought a Titanium pad pin for my rear as well and the screw that covers it over .

[barwel1992]

^^ i know "from ure brake thread" thats where i first head of them then looked on pro bolt and decided to get one as it will look much better :) havent got the cap thogh bit im thinking about removing the pain from the letters on the calipers (not sure if they have the make on them )? if so thats what im on about depends if i can be botherd lol

[xXBADGERXx]

I`ve got front pad pins to do this weekend , I got normal ones though as nobody can see them , I only get Stainless/Titanium stuff if it is on show . If it is hidden then I buy normal OEM ones and make sure everything is Greased/Lubed how it should be for easy removal .

[Quiff Wichard]

You can buy a left handed drill bit you know ;) , they can sometimes grab into a screw and undo it for you .

my first thought was left hand drill bit.. very verrrryyy handy thing

[xXBADGERXx]

Yeah if you get a 3mm and a 6mm they can cover most applications where something needs to be removed . With removing stuff like this , patience is the key and getting a good start . If you are going to drill something then centre punch it first then centre drill it and start with a smaller drill and open it out ..... especially under delicate circumstances . The rule of thumb with drills as well is the bigger they are then the slower the speed but in the same breath , don`t go crazy speeds with smaller drills as they can snag and snap very easily . Whilst drilling it is worthwhile putting a dab of oil onto the metal that you are drilling , say , once every 5 to 10 seconds , aids with the cutting , some old engine oil would do , this helps the drill to cut and preserves it`s cutting edge . I sharpen my drills once in a Blue moon , yet a mate of mine buys a new set every other month because his hands are made of Bacon .