Dry Crank

[squirrel_hunter]

Well I have my reground crank back from the engineers £138, but that included the rebore. Not sure if thats good or not as I can normally get a bore for free if me sister phones but I'm happy with it.

However I didn't pick it up, me gopher did and he related back to me the following fact, "the crank is dry". As there are new bearings (all the way from France no less) on it they are dry and will need lubing before the crank goes back together. So having never done this before I give the following to the org...

How do I lube the bearings and what should I use to do it?

Oh and anything else I should do or know while putting the crank in and the engine back together?

[the white rabbit]

I can normally get a bore for free if me sister phones

Just so you know, I appreciated that.

[fastdruid]

Fresh oil mixed with a little molybdenum disulphide grease.

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Have you got new big-end bearings then? Howzat?

Suzuki don't make them undersize/oversize, you have someone tame pour them out of babbit metal for you?


+1 about the moly oil. I would certainly use some.

You can also shoot some oil (perhaps with some, but significantly less moly in it) directly into the crank and down the holes at the back of the oil pump. Make sure there's as much in there as possible.


Can't remember from your other thread if I said this, and I don't wish to teach grandma to suck eggs, but it is of pivotal importance that you ensure there is absolutely none of your old bearing or crank material left in the sump. Make sure everything is double clean. Think operating theatre, then clean it again!


Don't be shy with the moly oil elsewhere also, and consider an oil-pressure test when first reassembled. The possibility is that the oil pump was damaged by you running it low.

[the_lone_wolf]

Can't you just lubricate it with air and happy thoughts like you normally do?

:p;)

[squirrel_hunter]

Have you got new big-end bearings then? Howzat?

Suzuki don't make them undersize/oversize, you have someone tame pour them out of babbit metal for you?


Not quite. Apparently as relayed by my gopher, the bearings are from a Ford Scimitar* and are the correct size for the mess I made.

So this Molybdenum Disulphide Grease then... Mix some with some fresh oil and coat the big end in it? I take it I'd have to take the rods off for that? And then drown the oil pump in it, reassemble the block?

Yep will give it some more cleaning before I try and chuck it back together. However the oil pressure test is a new one on me, explain?



*That was the information passed to me. I've googled it since and apparently it is a Reliant Scimitar anywhere from the 60's to the 80's that had a Ford engine. The bearings are the same size and had to be tracked down from France for me which is one of the reasons the engineer had the parts for a good 3 weeks.

[yorkie_chris]

Get some black molly grease, mix up like 3 tablespoons with 1/4 pint of oil, pop it in a normal oil can.
Put the spout of the oil can against a convenient oil hole in the crank, put your fingers over other ones, squirt the moly oil into the crank until you see it pouring out between the rods and crank. Spin them round a bit, more oil.

Ahhh cool about the bearings, good of the engineer to track these down, most would go "huh, dunno". Care to name?


In my case the knackered engine I have has actually scored its rods where the bearings spun around!

Get a degreaser gun and a gallon or more of paraffin. You should be able to wipe inside of engine with a tissue and not see any black/grey.


Oil pressure test is in haynes.

[squirrel_hunter]

Sure, I used Piston Broke Engineering, Bristol (0117) 9412300. I've known the name for a long time, but this is the first time I've used him. Stretchie had him do some work for his Thundercat and we were pleased with the results. Its a one man band, old school but very knowledgeable.

[yorkie_chris]

He could do well with this. There are plenty of knackered 1gen engines out there.

[yorkie_chris]

How you getting on?

[squirrel_hunter]

Well I moved all the boxes of engine from one side of the garage to the other last weekend to put up some shelving, does that count as progress?

[yorkie_chris]

Depends if that has moved them closer to the bike or not

[Alpinestarhero]

shelving helps a man organise things, most importantly his tools.

i'd say it was progress.

[RingDing]

Sure, I used Piston Broke Engineering, Bristol (0117) 9412300. I've known the name for a long time, but this is the first time I've used him. Stretchie had him do some work for his Thundercat and we were pleased with the results. Its a one man band, old school but very knowledgeable.

Steve (at Piston Broke) is a resourceful fellow. I've used on him for on LC, ZZR and GSX rebuilds for cranks and he always has some useful pointers.

[MattCollins]

It seems a bit odd to me that the crank and rods were returned assembled and not lubricated (plus sealed to prevent dust intrusion) unless the intention is that it is disassembled for a final clearance check and lube prior to final assembly.

Cheers

[yorkie_chris]

Just had a chat with that feller, seems a sound bloke.

[squirrel_hunter]

Indeed, when I spoke to him he was happy to take the time to explain some of the technical details of piston and sleeve metallurgy.

But alas my crank is still dry...

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah I did like it when I asked how much to hone some barrels to take 'busa pistons and got "arr fiver apiece, be right". Sounded like a somerset spanner man TBH lol.


Oh yeah oil pressure test, you need a particular pipe fitting and a gauge. Can't remember what fitting, basically just crank engine and see what it says.
More oil you get into every nook and cranny of motor the better, less work for oil pump on first crank.

[MattCollins]

Can't remember what fitting, basically just crank engine and see what it says.
More oil you get into every nook and cranny of motor the better, less work for oil pump on first crank.

It'll need to "T" (or replace) the oil pressure switch which iirc correctly is at the front RHS of the engine. I'd take the oil pressure switch into the local auto parts warehouse and find out what they've got.

While at it I would get a replacement pressure switch rated for say 30psi instead of zero psi....

When ready for the first engine start I like to remove the plugs and crank for a minute or so to bring the oil up, drop the plugs back in then start. That off course assumes that the crank has been properly lubricated to start with - I wouldn't do this dry.

[zadar]

But alas my crank is still dry...
Take it apart and lube it. Before you do that make sure to wash crank really good, especially inside of it.

[zadar]

It'll need to "T" (or replace) the oil pressure switch which iirc correctly is at the front RHS of the engine. I'd take the oil pressure switch into the local auto parts warehouse and find out what they've got.

You don't need to take switch out to check oil pressure. There is 12mm (socket) bolt with crush washer on right side of oil filter (looking at bike from front). Take it out and put gauge there.

[MattCollins]

Aha... learn something new every day.

Doesn't matter much to me because I have the bits to tap in at the pressure switch... and I did replace that darned switch.

Cheers

[squirrel_hunter]

Well I have made some progress. But not much.

I have bought some Lith-Moly Grease (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_24 6319_langId_-1_categoryId_165705#dtab) and a Grease Gun (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_18 1415_langId_-1_categoryId_165469#dtab). But alas the Grease Gun needs to go back as the thread on the tube/ gun head is nicely stripped and there are lots of little bit of swarf all over the gun innards.

Still its progress.

[yorkie_chris]

You don't want to use a grease gun for this, get an oil can and a bit of fresh engine oil.

[squirrel_hunter]

Something more like this (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht407-125ml-oil-can) then?

[yorkie_chris]

Something more like this (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht407-125ml-oil-can) then?

Yes spot on, or big vets syringe can be useful for pumping it through crank.

[fastdruid]

You don't want to use a grease gun for this, get an oil can and a bit of fresh engine oil.

Yep, mix the moly grease 50/50 with engine oil and put in an oil can then force through all the oil holes and make sure everything is lubed.

Druid