Spark plug removal.

[Beut834]

Hello all,

My SV650 (2001) is not well. Today it began spluttering and the power seemed to be dropping in and out! (it's now permanently out!) I am a novice biker! but the symptoms seem similar to those experienced in a car when one of the plugs/HT leads fail!

If my diagnosis is correct them I am going to need to change/clean the plugs! but they do not look particularly accessible!

Can somebody lend some advice regarding easy ways to access/change/clean the plugs! do i need to loosen the radiator? (it looks like it would hinge at the top)

Any help gratefully received!

Thanks in adavance.

[7755matt]

I believe that to access the front plug you need to loosen the radiator and then put a block of wood between it and the frame to give you better access.

[Beut834]

cheers Matt!

I am presuming that there is one at the rear also? Is that easy to get to?

[jambo]

The rear's nice and easy, undo the 2 front bolts on the tank, remove the front seat, lift the tank up (it pivots at the rear), and you can just get the plug cap out.

Jambo

[Beut834]

Cheers Jambo!

Complete idiots question! (only ever worked on cars!) - Is there only two plugs? one front and one rear.......Sorry!

[Richie]

yes only two plugs.

[mister c]

Another thing to check as well. Could be that the fuel overflow pipe in the tank is blocked. This lets water into your fuel & makes the bike run like a real pig. I've had this happen twice my Curvy. I did put a post on here somewhere, I'll root it out.
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=111512

Also
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=115724
Could help :)

[Richie]

I know this is for the pointy but its the same as the curvy.

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1135/2periodicmaintenance760.jpg


might I suggest you download a copy of the manual (http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=083117122117107105095083086054 05304809504905705705709505004804804809508310111411 8105099101095077097110117097108046122105112).

[Beut834]

Mister C - Thanks mate! I'll check that!

Richie - that's gleaming thank you!

[sayani]

Did mine a couple of weeks ago for the first time - you may need to disconnect and remove the horn to get the radiator to move forward enough.

[Sosha]

might be worth mentioning that the stock mudguard doesn't offer the front plug much protection from water so if you've been splashing around in puddles it's probably worth checking the front plugs dry first. Would fit the symptoms.

[Beut834]

Thanks Sayani!

[Beut834]

might be worth mentioning that the stock mudguard doesn't offer the front plug much protection from water so if you've been splashing around in puddles it's probably worth checking the front plugs dry first. Would fit the symptoms.

Gracias! - that is a possibility!

[embee]

The other thing which can cause these sort of problems is sticking choke plungers.
If the plugs look very black and sooty, that could be your problem. Lots of discussion on this topic in the past (when curveys ruled the roost), try a search on "choke plungers" or similar.

[sunshine]

curveys still rule tbh

[Beut834]

The other thing which can cause these sort of problems is sticking choke plungers.
If the plugs look very black and sooty, that could be your problem. Lots of discussion on this topic in the past (when curveys ruled the roost), try a search on "choke plungers" or similar.

Will it be obvious embee?

[sam anon]

On a curvy, the side panels also push onto bosses on the sides of the radiator.

To pull these off, just remove the rear-most bolt on both side farings and pull the fairing away from the radiator. Do this in the area of the boss and very carefully!

[embee]

Will it be obvious embee?

Maybe, maybe not.

The rear choke plunger is easy to get at, it's on the right side of the rear carb. The screws can be difficult to remove if they haven't been out before and lubricated. A gentle tap with a small hammer can help.

Usually you'll find white corrosion around the cable end and choke plunger when you carefully withdraw it from the carb body. It doesn't take much to prevent the plunger from returning fully when the choke lever is closed, the spring is quite small.

The front one is much more difficult to get at, and really requires the carbs to be taken off the engine, not a difficult job and worth the effort.