View Full Version : Cam-swap/engine won't start
So I finally got off my backside and decided to use the intake cams from the dead engine as exhaust cams. Bad start was had when I couldn't get the timing inspection cover to come off because it's welded itself in place. Bent a bar trying to do it, which I was impressed with, as I expected the suzuki-cheese bolt to round before that happened. As a result, I ended up taking the plugs out and turning the engine over using the starter to get the right markings into places I could work with (as I also couldn't find a 17mm socket. Go figure.)
So, decided to go for the rear cylinder first because it's a bit more accessible (although the CCT location made me regret that decision). Managed to get it in, 16 pins between the 2-mark on the intake to the new 3-mark on the new exhaust (marked out as the next valley to the left of the 1F marking as per this image):
http://www.hostile-takeover.com/mackeystingray/SVcamswap/03intake-rear.jpg.
I didn't take the CCT out because I didn't see much point in putting myself through that much pain, given that I've got a long screwdriver and skinny hands. I regret the decision a bit now, because at one point the cam-chain slipped off both cams while trying to wriggle the new cam into place. I'm about 99% certain that it went back on at the same place it came off...but there's that 1% chance I was wrong.
Being the slightly paranoid guy that I am, I tried very short presses on the starter to turn the engine over (no 17mm socket, remember? Which is a shame). No big clunks, everything turns over lovely and smoothly. Excellent. Decide to try to fire it up with just the rear cyl done to make sure I've not broken anything. Put everything back together, plugs in and caps back on, turn motor over. Front cylinder fires. Rear doesn't. Take off front plug to make sure...still no firing.
Bike now runs on one cyl only, which is peeing me right off. Any ideas on what I've done wrong?
Sid Squid
29-11-09, 07:35 PM
Where to start? Could be anything - re-check everything you've disturbed. Particularly the cam timimg obviously.
See above comment on not being able to get the timing cover off. That's the problem I've got, really
check for a spark on the rear plug, might had cracked the insoluation on the plug, but I would believe you would have allready checked...
Yep, plug sparks fine, swapped front and rear sparks and they're both working (and were both running before, obviously)
barwel1992
29-11-09, 07:52 PM
ok nothing to add bout the cams as i no nothing about it but on the mt-owners-club forum one of the blokes had the front cylinder not firing on his mt-01 1600cc twin and to force start it he put some fuel in the spark plug hole (not sure how much) then obv replaced the plug back in there and it started up not sure if this is worth a shot ?
yorkie_chris
29-11-09, 07:58 PM
You got the cam pointing the right way? Look at cams and go through it in your head, intake compression combustion exhaust
I'd assume there's only one way it can go in if it's lined up correctly with the 2 and 3 pins ;)
I'd assume there's only one way it can go in if it's lined up correctly with the 2 and 3 pins ;)
Assumption is the mother of all fu*k ups. You can put the cam in 180 degrees out and it'll turn over ok but not fire.
But if it's in 180 degrees out of alignment then the 3 marking on the exhaust cam would then also be 180 degrees out of alignment...which would mean it wouldn't be 16 pins away
Biker Biggles
29-11-09, 08:24 PM
I think Northwind has done this.Might be worth a PM and pick his brains?
Managed (after a lot of persuasion) to get the timing cover off. Success. Still lack a 17mm socket. Fail. Will continue this later this week...
beabert
29-11-09, 10:55 PM
Dont know if its any help but i have a digital copy of the curvy haynes manual, assuming you havent already got it.
I've got a hard copy in the garage. It's very helpful...as long as you can get the timing cover off ;) Now that it's off, things should be ok - I just need to get a 17mm socket so I can turn the engine over by hand.
Red Herring
30-11-09, 08:51 AM
I've not done a swop before but I'd have thought the markings on the new cam would be completely wrong for where you have moved it to. Inlet and exhaust cams are timed differently so why should the markings be interchangeable? An easy way to check would be to pull the cam cover off and position the new cam with the lobes at a particular point, then put the one you took our next to it and compare where the references are with the lobes in the same position. Oh and an easy way to turn the engine reasonably accurately (at least with the plugs out) is to put it in gear and turn the back wheel.
The cam swop is easy enough to do and those diagrams you are using are definately correct - I think they are pretty much what everyone uses.
A couple of things though - it is easy to get the timing 180 degrees out if your distracted by other stuff whilst you are doing this - more than a couple of people have done this so don't definately rule it out.
Theres not much to disturb when you do the rear (assuming you did it with the tank still on) so as Sid Squid said I'd just go back and double check everything you've done for correctness.
Finally - I find the tensioners a nightmare too - especially the rear for some reason, but I've always taken them out so the chain is nice and slack. I would definately recommend marking up the cam chain somehow before you start moving things though just as some sort of insurance policy incase it does slip.
rictus01
30-11-09, 09:17 AM
unhitch your horse and go buy a socket for a start....;), don't cut corners, basic logic will show it's timed right or not.
It's not a complex job, and I'll admit I haven't done it for a number of years now, but can't remember any problems.
Cheers Mark.
454697819
30-11-09, 10:14 AM
I've got a hard copy in the garage. It's very helpful...as long as you can get the timing cover off ;) Now that it's off, things should be ok - I just need to get a 17mm socket so I can turn the engine over by hand.
put it in gear - take the spark plugs out and turn it over using the back wheel..
Good luck with it all
Neeja,
To try and clarify the point Sudoxe and Spoon have made. The cams (as I'm sure you know) move half the rotational rate of the crank. This means it's possible to have the front cylinder at TDC, (F mark visible in the timing cover), and all the points line up correctly but have the crank one full rotation / the cams 1/2 a rotation out of sync with the other cylinder. Everything will turn over fine, but instead of the cylinders now trying to fire 270 degrees apart, they will try to fire 90 degrees apart, this doesn't work out well.
I would also suggest that using the starter motor to turn the engine once the cams have been out isn't a great call. Simple reason being the starter motor's very strong and can bend a valve if you've got the timing wrong. Turning by hand you should be able to feel the resistance and stop if you're concerned.
Jambo
Edit: My understanding of the process is that K3+ intake cams should replace curvy intake cams, and the curvy intakes should be moved to the exhaust. If this is not precisely what you're doing (I can't remember what year of bike you have) then it's worth clarifying.
Just to clarify, I've not got a set of K3 intake cams, but I do have 2 sets of curvey intake cams after taking my lunched engine apart. Instead of replacing intake with intake from K3, I'm just swapping out my exhaust cams for intake ones. Should make a difference, although nobody's sure how much.
I always thought that if the cylinders were trying to fire at 90 degrees that the engine would still fire, just badly. When the first attempt was made to start it, only the rear cylinder had a plug in it, so it should've been running on just the rear cylinder, with the front doing nothing but spitting out fuel-smelling air from the spark-plug hole :) Unfortunately it didn't fire at all.
And the only reason I turned it over with the starter was that I rolled it forward in gear first and didn't hear any clunking or feel any resistance - I was pretty confident that it all went back in in the same place as I left it, but apparently not. Picked up at 17mm socket on the way to work this morning, so should have this sorted tonight or tomorrow, depending on what time I get back home after a trip out to see a friend.
Re: above comment on removing the CCT - I was planning on taking the front one off because it's reasonably accessible. The rear one I had difficulty taking the cover bolt off...didn't fancy trying to remove it completely because I had a premonition of the nightmare I'd have trying to get it back in. Oh the irony. Hindsight, people...it's a wonderful thing :D
yorkie_chris
30-11-09, 01:04 PM
I find rear one loads easier to get to than front! Just take right rearset off and is easy.
Before you even think about marks just look at cams. Find roughly TDC on back with a rod down the plughole and look at cams, rotate engine and go through in your head the 4 stroke cycle. I reckon you've put something in wrong and it's got 2 exhaust strokes instead of 1 intake 1 exhaust.
I find rear one loads easier to get to than front! Just take right rearset off and is easy.
Before you even think about marks just look at cams. Find roughly TDC on back with a rod down the plughole and look at cams, rotate engine and go through in your head the 4 stroke cycle. I reckon you've put something in wrong and it's got 2 exhaust strokes instead of 1 intake 1 exhaust.
Thinking about it, I'm reckoning the same. I clearly just got (un)lucky when putting the cams in that I managed this amazing feat of engineering.
As mentioned earlier, I've got the timing cover off now (with the help of an old honda CG exhaust), so I can check the timing properly. 17mm socket+timing cover = piece of cake. I did take the RHS rearset off...getting at the CCT itself wasn't too bad, it was the winding it out without it flicking back in that made me swear lots :D
The only hassle I had doing the cam swap was getting the coil connections crossed so that the front signal went to the rear coil and visa versa, result hellish missfires, easy fix though. I reckon when you dropped the chain it all went out of whack, thw whole process was fairly easy, apart from taking out the cam chain tensioner, if you are using the web info where the pic came from read all the comments right to the end.Theres an important part missing in the first bit, after setting one cylinder you need to rotate the crank a full 360 degrees before doing the next one. Other wise you get big bang timing which is amusing but not productive.
Cheers
Pod
Theres an important part missing in the first bit, after setting one cylinder you need to rotate the crank a full 360 degrees before doing the next one. Other wise you get big bang timing which is amusing but not productive.
Cheers
Pod
As much fun as it sounds to run the engine like this, I'm trying to avoid it ;) I was aware of this, however - I've got a Haynes manual that I was using to check on the cam-timing marks, and it makes sure to mention rotating the engine to make it all line up. I just wish I'd used a pen that didn't rub off so easily when marking the cams/camchains, as this whole thing could've been avoided :P
Personally I've found pens / tipex to be of help when doing the ZX6R as the cams don't sit quite flat until you've clamped them down, so it can be a little tricky lining them up. On the SV this isn't a method I'd rely on for 2 reasons:
1) It isn't needed as at the position you're lining the cams up, the lobes are facing away from the buckets and adjustments can easily be made by hand because there's no load on them.
2) There is no sight of the chain touching the crank. Because of this your marks at the top can all line up while the chain has moved a tooth at the bottom, leading to a wrecked motor.
Just do it the way it's laid out in the manual, it works much better than using pens & tipex for this configuration of engine.
HTH
Jambo
The pen isn't to line the cams up as such, it's so I knew which tooth went to which pin on the intake side (which I wasn't changing), in case the cam-chain slipped. Unfortunately it rubbed off.
Quick update: Problem found. My intake cam is on exhaust timing and the exhaust cam is on intake timing. Guess who was tired when doing this yesterday and forgot which was front and which was back? :D
barwel1992
30-11-09, 09:56 PM
lol so now the problems solved would you mind telling my what this does :) ?
For a pointy? Not much, unless you just want to do what I'm doing moving curvey intakes into the exhaust. Normally the full swap is putting K3+ intake cams into the intake side of a curvey engine, and moving the intake cams to the exhaust side. Gains somewhere between 3-9bhp (depending on who you believe etc.). Putting curvey intakes into the exhaust side while still keeping the curvey intakes? Nobody's quite sure, but given the difference in lift between the stock exhaust cams and the intake cams being used as exhaust cams, it should be noticeable.
barwel1992
30-11-09, 10:09 PM
well i have a pointy but i think i get the drift, so how come you did it if there is not much efect ?
Dude...I'd sell my grandmother for an extra 1.5bhp. ;)
Update: Rear cyl now fires happily. Moving onto the front.
beabert
30-11-09, 10:51 PM
well i have a pointy but i think i get the drift, so how come you did it if there is not much efect
Must be the same reason people pick the sv as a race bike lol, craziness. Its a shame we cant put a proper engine in the sv, 180bhp naked pointy :D lol
barwel1992
30-11-09, 11:41 PM
Dude...I'd sell my grandmother for an extra 1.5bhp. ;)
haha lmao :P
Now finished, back together and running. Will test tomorrow on the way to work, and hope nothing goes bang :D
Well, nothing went bang.
Gained nothing top-end, really (expected), but it feels quite a bit more lively lower down. Seems to pull harder from 4-7krpm, so there's much less of a jump as it hits 7k.
The bad, though: Bike doesn't seem to want to idle nicely - idling very high and erratically, and even putting the choke on full left it at under 3k (when it normally jumps to 3k with full choke from cold). Also got into work to discover my left boot had a spraying of oil on it. I'm assuming that one of the breather hoses wasn't on the airbox properly and it's come from that...but can't get out to check till later this afternoon. Bugger.
On the upside, it didn't go bang.
yorkie_chris
01-12-09, 03:40 PM
You've got an air leak by the sounds of it. Check you put carbs back on right. Sounds to me like you didn't put airbox back right especially since one of breathers popped off too.
I had a look at lunch-time and it's not the breathers. I'm actually wondering if it's just oil on the radiator - it got fairly covered last night (had it hanging down under the front cyl while working on it, and there was a bit of spray when starting the engine the first time due to me leaving the cover off). There's a few small drops of oil under it at the moment, but nothing major. I'm thinking that oil got into the rad and as it's warmed up this morning it's dribbled out, as there was nothing leaking last night when I had it running for 2-3 mins.
The air-leak sounds likely...it was about 1:30am when I was putting the air-box back on, although the carbs never came off the bike. Thinking i might not have put them back onto the front carb properly in my haste for bed :D
Slightly worse than I thought.
Rear cylinder is down on compression because it's leaking through the top cover at the rear. Spraying a fine mist of oil and can feel it blowing.
Think the rear screw thread has stripped.
yorkie_chris
01-12-09, 06:57 PM
Top cover won't lose you compression. Just a little oil.
*ignore*
Bike has now started working on both cyls again. Rear one only fires intermittantly at idle, and idles low, so probably carbs need balancing given that they've not been done in 12k miles...
Re-edit. The rear cylinder is now not firing again. I give up for the night.
i had a bad post.
Check carb rubbers
Check carb synch
Hope thats all.
Pod
Latest update, and all does not seem good.
Today I completely reset the rear cylinder timing - both cams out, and swapped back to standard exhaust cams. I was planning on seeing if this made a difference, but I noticed when I was turning the engine over by hand that I have a minor problem.
When the front cylinder goes through the intake/exhaust cycle, you can hear the air being sucked in through the carb. When the rear cylinder does...you can't. It sounds like air's being sucked in from somewhere near the engine. The carb rubber looks good, and covering the carb (and all the relevant hoses connected to it) generates no suction when turning it over by hand.
Any ideas? Blown head gasket (given that air can be felt at the back of the cylinder when it's running)? I'm out. Going to hand it over to the local shop, I think.
Edit: No, I've not checked the coolant/oil yet. I had a phone call that lasted 2 hours and I ain't going back out there now.
Unlucky m8, if you need a hand with anything let me know (although I know two thirds of f all about mechanics but can make a good coffee and hold bits as needed)
If it's head gasket I don't wanna touch it with a barge-pole. I had a bitch of a time getting the heads off the knackered engine, and don't wanna have to do it on something that would matter if I broke anything.
beabert
02-12-09, 11:51 PM
head gasket is easy, its the base gasket that a pain in the **** lol, id do it yourself :D
Don't have the right tools...and I want to get a leakdown test done first before tearing it apart. My local shop will do that for me, and if it's burned valves or something else then I've got a spare engine here for parts anyway :)
beabert
02-12-09, 11:57 PM
What tools dont you have?
You can check the valves with petrol in the ports and watch for leaks (when the head off) if a little comes a bit of lapping needed, cheap to buy.
Been through this on my old bike, i enjoyed it.
Have nothing torque-specific. I get by with most things, but wouldn't consider dealing with engine gaskets without a torque wrench. Also, most of the sockets I have are 1/4in drive...and I snapped two extension bars taking the old engine apart because of the torque on the bolts. I'd rather get it looked at properly at this point ;)
beabert
03-12-09, 12:04 AM
Well if you have the cash and want the piece of mind then i understand :D
Torque wrench is only £18, use a breaker bar too (vacuum pipe) i had the draper one tested and it was very accurate. I couldnt afford to pay for labour, so i bought a few tools instead. I had no prior experience either.
Good luck with it mate.
torque wrench - got one you can borrow if need >28
Socket set 1/2 inch - got some you can borrow if needed
I agree though I would take it to the shop but I wouldn't want to f it up as I know I would
barwel1992
03-12-09, 01:16 AM
i use the standard sv handle bars as a brake bar lol and a draper torque wrench thats from 30>200+ that i got for £20 or so
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 04:11 PM
Did you check valve clearance when you put it back together?
OK, the idea that the head gasket's gone seems entirely supported by the idea you can't hear air being drawn in through the intake. I'd scratch this train of thought unless something much more substantial comes up supporting it.
If the intake stroke does not seem to be drawing air down through the rear carb, and you are 100% certain that the cam positioning is correct at this time, then I'm afraid my first thought is that the exhaust valves have been bent.
I really hope I'm wrong, but I have seen this before (we've already established that the initial timing used was incorrect but hoped that it was in one of the incorrect positions that did not involve contact). If the intake cam was left alone but the exhaust timing was off it may have bent the exhaust valves due to piston / valve interface. This means on intake stroke the cylinder fills from both the open intake valves, but crucially from the non-sealing exhaust valves too. This drastically reduces the airflow through the carb, and sets compression to 0psi as the air escapes straight past the exhaust valves on compression stroke.
Do a compression test. If nothing else put your hand over the spark plug hole for the front and rear cylinders and see if the compression forces feel anything like equal. If the compression is low on the rear cylinder it's mechanical. Something isn't sealing, or the timing's out.
I do hope I'm wrong.
Jambo
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 04:32 PM
When the front cylinder goes through the intake/exhaust cycle, you can hear the air being sucked in through the carb. When the rear cylinder does...you can't. It sounds like air's being sucked in from somewhere near the engine. The carb rubber looks good, and covering the carb (and all the relevant hoses connected to it) generates no suction when turning it over by hand.
Have you got a spark plug in it?
You can do "leakdown" test yourself. Set it to TDC compression, put a pipe down spark plug hole and get someone to blow on it, see if you can hear air going out of pipe/up carb etc.
Did you check valve clearance when you put it back together?
It is also possible that the valve clearances were so tight with the different cam in that the exhaust valves were not sealing, however, since you've put the original parts back in this should be acceptable assuming the valve seat & valve are OK.
Jambo
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 04:37 PM
With bad luck maybe a shim jumped out and is sat in between valve retainer and bucket.
With bad luck maybe a shim jumped out and is sat in between valve retainer and bucket.
I think it's unlikely to have all gone together smoothly in this case but it's worth a look of course.
Have you got a spark plug in it?
You can do "leakdown" test yourself. Set it to TDC compression, put a pipe down spark plug hole and get someone to blow on it, see if you can hear air going out of pipe/up carb etc.
This assumes it's TDC compression stroke, not TDC end of exhaust / start of intake stroke where the valves will be open slightly. Easy check by looking at the cam lobes but worth a mention. You'd also want a very good seal on that pipe. I'd probably recommend trying to borrow a compression tester if at all possible.
Jambo
There is some compression in the cylinder, but it's low. As mentioned above, can put my thumb into the plug hole and it'll pop it out, but not with much force. The reason I'm suspecting head gasket rather than valves is that when the engine's turning over, if you put your hand down the back of the cylinder (near to the exhaust header stub), there's a quite substantial amount of air being pushed around. Given that the header was put onto the new engine with a fresh gasket and was definitely sealed, I'm hesitant to suggset it's leakage from the exhaust.
As to the timing being off originally, it was turned over using the rear wheel with no noise, so I'd say it was unlikely (although possible, you never know) that it was valve/piston celebrity deathmatch. Valve clearances with new cams were also good.
If it is valves...shouldn't be that much of an issue. The head's got to come off either way for inspection, and I've got a spare engine to scavenge for parts.
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 05:48 PM
Why would the head gasket go tits up because of playing with cams at low rpm?
Before taking any heads off I'd want to use a compression tester to get some numbers for front Vs rear compression.
Are you certain that there are no splits in the breather pipes that go from the air box to the rear of the crank case? They exit near the area you're describing.
A blown head gasket seems quite unlikely to be able to generate the sort of air movement you're describing. But obviously it's a little hard to tell without being in front of it.
Jambo
beabert
03-12-09, 05:52 PM
Rip the head off and have a look.
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 05:52 PM
Head gasket would show loss of couple psi, bubbles in coolant etc. Look at a head gasket and how far air has to move through steel to get outside. It would jump to coolant or oil first.
And no for chrissake don't just tear into the thing before you've attacked it from every other angle! Cost you a new gasket to find a simple problem with timing or a valve clearance!
Why would the head gasket go tits up because of playing with cams at low rpm?
It's been idling/starting erratically for a while. Figure that it was a small leak that's getting bigger
Head gasket would show loss of couple psi, bubbles in coolant etc. Look at a head gasket and how far air has to move through steel to get outside. It would jump to coolant or oil first.
And no for chrissake don't just tear into the thing before you've attacked it from every other angle! Cost you a new gasket to find a simple problem with timing or a valve clearance!
It's definitely not a timing issue any more, as it's back on stock timing (reset from scratch, both cams out and back to stock exhaust cams), and clearances are good.
I just dropped a bit of oil, and it's clear, no emulsification. Not got time to check the coolant for bubbles, but that's my first job tomorrow. Having said that, given that the oil's perfectly clear (well, not perfect...but no more dirty than oil with less than 300 miles in it should be), I'm leaning towards bent valves now.
Are you certain that there are no splits in the breather pipes that go from the air box to the rear of the crank case? They exit near the area you're describing.
Positive - I pulled it off the other day to check for this. No splits, cracks or leaks - plugging one end and blowing down the other just results in a red face. And a bad taste in the mouth :D
beabert
03-12-09, 09:46 PM
Have you pin pointed where this air is coming out yet?
yorkie_chris
03-12-09, 11:09 PM
Ok check valve clearances. Valve that is bent so far as not to seat will either have massive clearance or none.
Going to attempt a basic leakdown test tomorrow and check clearances.
Just a thought: If it's valves, would it be much easier to just transplant the entire head from the knackered engine? Saves messing about with swapping over the valves etc.
Ok, results are in and I'm confused.
Did a basic leakdown test on the rear cyl using a spare breather hose. Found TDC using a piece of thick wire, blew into it, air goes straight through into exhaust. Minor worry. Spin crank 360 degrees, repeat, absolutely nada. I go red in the face, air goes nowhere.
Right, so compression seems to be a non-issue afterall. Great.
Before pulling anything apart I decided to see what was happening with the rear cyl not sucking anything through the carbs, so I pulled the rear carb off and put my hand directly onto the carb rubber. Guess what? Suction. Carb back on, hand over carb-top, cover vacuum port, turn engine over, very little suction. Crank the engine a bit, engine fires to life. There's now suction on the rear carb. Not as much as on the front, but some. Rear header is now getting hot as well, so it's firing.
However, if I put my hand over the front carb the engine dies. If I do it over the rear it doesn't. Pull the front HT lead off, engine dies. Pull the rear one off, nada.
yorkie_chris
04-12-09, 08:26 PM
Carbs a yard out of balance?
Possible. I'll play around a bit in a while. Just recovering at the moment - when pulling off the rear spark-plug with the engine going I kinda pulled the HT lead off the plug cap. Unfortunately I was leaning on the frame with my left arm while holding the throttle a bit open. Got a lovely second or two of electric shocks before I let go of the HT cable. Ow.
At idle, rear cylinder doesn't seem to be doing much, but is firing. At low revs the bike will stall. Get it above 3k and it's fine, put it above 7k and it spits fuel back through the rear carb and bogs down something fierce.
Intake problem? I'm going to limp it down to the local mech's tomorrow while I'm having my eyes tested. Good times.
beabert
04-12-09, 09:56 PM
Haven't you got a compression guage, well cheap too buy :-) One test normal (throttle fully open, and a second test with a cap full of oil in the bore.
beabert
04-12-09, 09:57 PM
Ill post you mine to borrow if you like, have two, so no rush for it back.
Nah, it's ok. Local place won't charge me for anything unless it needs doing, so a compression test from them'll be free. I'm also a bit sick of the sight of the SV at the moment - for the past few months it seems that all I've done is work on it (although admittedly a lot of it was unnecessary - zx6 shock etc.), so I'm just gonna leave it with them. I've got a CBR600RR to use in the meantime, and I'm test-riding an 09 hornet tomorrow...so it may not be around in the garage much longer anyway.
Results are in, and....*drumroll*
One exhaust valve not seating properly. Apparently it's fairly small, and once the engine warms up it disappears somewhat, but with the engine completely cold it makes it very hard to start. It appears, though, it wasn't caused by anything that I did. When I put the new engine in it was a bit rattly, but put it down to a CCT (since the ones on the old engine was quiet). Apparently it was valve noise. Oh, well, something else learned...
Mech's going to recondition the old head, swap it over and change over the exhaust cam at the same time to save me doing it once I got the bike back. Hopefully I'll have a running bike again by Weds morning.
yorkie_chris
07-12-09, 03:42 PM
Make sure you tell him about the different timing marks etc.
Already done. Although the guy's...somewhat experienced. He builds race-engines, machines his own parts (including wheels), and has a 400bhp turbo'd 'busa lying around in his lockup. I'm pretty sure that telling him about the timing marks would be teaching him to suck on fowl orbs :)
beabert
07-12-09, 06:07 PM
Im lost, what was the air coming out the back area of the engine from then lol?
Slight leak from the header pipe. It was an absolute bugger to locate, but a bit of talc showed the way. I'd assumed it would be coming out of the engine side, but it's where the stub met the downpipe - forgot to mention this earlier ;)
beabert
07-12-09, 06:25 PM
marvellous then, all sorted.
marvellous then, all sorted.
Had to jinx me, didn't you?
Got it back today, running nicely. Checked over the essentials, all good, needed to ride it to Wigan tonight for date-time.
Got off the M6 and into Wigan town and it starts losing power. Pulled over and removed earphones to discover large rattles. Bugger. Engine then siezed completely. Second crank destroyed in 3 months.
beabert
12-12-09, 03:44 PM
:o y?
Still full of oil, so don't know, don't care. I'm going to source a new lump, put it in and sell it. I've had enough.
beabert
12-12-09, 06:35 PM
I might flog the my sv while it still works lol.
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