Plumbing Question - Leaking Combi Boiler

[mattSV]

My 5 year old Worcester 28CDI has developed a small leak from the water/water heat exchanger. Looking at the rear of the heat exchanger, it is coming from the compression joint at the top right - I have managed to get a spanner on it and tighten it a little (1/16 of a turn?) however it is still dripping.

No drop in pressure, and no noticable problems with heating or how water.

What is the best option


Just keep nipping it up a bit (however I don't want to over do it & feck it up completely),
Whack some tape or putty around it
Get a plumber in to remake the joint properly (or tell me I need a new exchanger:rolleyes:)
None of the above :D


Thanks

Matt

[Spiderman]

Just be aware of one thing...if you take a cover off a gas boiler and then do any type of work to it yourself you are breaking the law unless you are Gas Safe certified (the new name for Corgi). Seems petty for this kind of thing i know but you should be aware of this.
I'd be tempted to get a plumber in to just re-solder the joint but then you run the risk of beng lied to that its more work etc etc, unless of course you se a friendly Org plumber who is in your area. We have a few qualified plumbers on here.

[embee]

Just be aware of one thing...if you take a cover off a gas boiler and then do any type of work to it yourself you are breaking the law unless you are Gas Safe certified .

Unless the law (statutory instrument) has changed, not if you are doing it for youself, only illegal if you are doing it for reward in any shape or form. This subject always gets load of debate, DIY gas work may not be recommended but isn't (wasn't) illegal. I'm sure a registered gas-safe bod will correct me if I'm wrong on this.

One could argue the relative risks of DIY work on the wet parts of the system compared to the gas side.

Having said that, best stuff for compression joints is the good old fashioned "boss-white" (various proprietary names). I find it is much more reliable that the "potable water" versions ("Hawk Blue" etc). It's no longer legal to use linseed based boss-white on any work carrying water which can be used for drinking, but it always used to be the norm (mind you so were lead pipes). PTFE tape is a viable alternative, though I still prefer boss-white.

[Bluefish]

yeah nip it up, if it holds no probs, if you still have a leak the boiler would need to be drained of water and the joint remade with boss white, ptfe whatever, simples.

[Bluefish]

Unless the law (statutory instrument) has changed, not if you are doing it for youself, only illegal if you are doing it for reward in any shape or form. This subject always gets load of debate, DIY gas work may not be recommended but isn't (wasn't) illegal. I'm sure a registered gas-safe bod will correct me if I'm wrong on this.

One could argue the relative risks of DIY work on the wet parts of the system compared to the gas side.

Having said that, best stuff for compression joints is the good old fashioned "boss-white" (various proprietary names). I find it is much more reliable that the "potable water" versions ("Hawk Blue" etc). It's no longer legal to use linseed based boss-white on any work carrying water which can be used for drinking, but it always used to be the norm (mind you so were lead pipes). PTFE tape is a viable alternative, though I still prefer boss-white.

you are allowed to work on gas, however one must be deemed competant, so if you **** it up you obviously were not competant, if all goes well, well that is allowed. however if you really don't have a clue leave it alone, and call a man/woman.

[mattSV]

yeah nip it up, if it holds no probs, if you still have a leak the boiler would need to be drained of water and the joint remade with boss white, ptfe whatever, simples.

Cheers - will see if I can get another 1/16 or so on it (bit of a b!tch to get to the nut) - if that does not work then will probably get someone in as the system is filled with an inhibitor, so draining it down will mean it will need the inhinitor replacing - and I have no idea how to do that :rolleyes:

[Bluefish]

if it comes to it you should only have to drain the boiler, ie turn off the isolation valves on the flow and return, in this case you should not need to replace the inhibitor as only a small ammount of water will be lost,turning off the valves is only done if they look in good condition otherwise they leak and you need new ones. ps do not tighten it up too much otherwise the leak will become worse than it is now.