View Full Version : Didn't know changing the spark plugs would be so bloody hard
apple tango
13-12-09, 05:55 PM
Attempted to change the spark plugs today. First time I've done it on any bike. Well, i say 'done', but i didn't even complete the job.
According to Mr Haynes, and my assumption, i thought it'd be a half hour easy job. How wrong was i.
How in God's name are you meant to get the front plug out? I unscrewed every bolt for the rad. It then moves forward an inch at the most. After lots of swearing and wrestling to find space, i eventually got the spark plug socket (from the bikes tool kit) into the hole and gripping the plug (i think).
Here's where i got stuck. Theres barely any space to turn the spark plug socket with a spanner, and its the most fiddly frustrating thing i've ever done. I managed to turn it slightly, but not enough i don't think. How many turns should it need before the plug becomes free? Once it is free, will it pull out with the socket?
I eventually gave up, and tightened it back up. Hope i did anyway, as it was hard to tell. I didn't even attempt to change the rear plug. So, looks like a simple maintenance job has defeated me.
Any tips?
I had a similar experience when doing mine too, ended up splitting a radiator hose trying to pivot the rad out. Much easier without that there lol, Since i have done it with the rad connected up but it is very tight.
Time for a coolant change?
Jayneflakes
13-12-09, 09:10 PM
I used Carol's 3/8 drive Snap on set to change mine, was fiddly, but as long as you take your time and are patient, it is ok.
I removed the splash guard and then I pushed the Radiator forward and supported it with a rod. After that it was tight, but a small ratchet makes it easier.
Good luck. :D
shifter
13-12-09, 09:23 PM
It takes about 2 mins to drain the coolant, then you take the radiator off, then you can get at the plug and then you can add some new coolant.
xXBADGERXx
13-12-09, 09:26 PM
I used one of those jointed adaptors on my socket set . Wedge the rad out of the way with a block of wood , put the spark plug socket down the hole and onto the plug , then a short extension bar and then the jointed adaptor . You can undo it nicely on an angle and do front and back plug in less than 15 minutes .
yorkie_chris
13-12-09, 09:31 PM
If it's a curvy unbolt the horn
xXBADGERXx
13-12-09, 09:33 PM
If it's a curvy unbolt the horn and throw the rest of the bike away , the Horn is most valuable part
Corrected for you YC ;)
kellyjo
13-12-09, 09:45 PM
After an hours struggling, i remembered the sv tool set under the pillion seat and lo and behold the perfect tool for the job was in there. Felt a bit stupid after it then took 2 mins to remove!!
We did binkys plugs in no time, I could not understand what all the fuss was about.
I'm in no position to start giving in depth descriptions on how to do it though. I have a fair few tools, I guess if you have limited tools you may struggle
thedonal
13-12-09, 10:21 PM
It's a bit of a palaver if you can't get the rad forward very far.
I tend to do it on major (annual service) when the coolant's drained- that way I can get the radiator off the hoses and right out of the way (off the bike if necessary!).
I had similar issues with the front takeoff point today when balancing the carbs- a nightmare to get the carbtune hose onto as there's no room for fingers- I suspect really long nose pliers would have had a job too.
I fitted a larger tube over the end of the hose and it went onto the nipple easier (oo-er!).
yorkie_chris
13-12-09, 10:33 PM
I fit extension tube to front vacuum nipple first time I balance carbs on anyones bike. Saves loads of time the next time round.
fastdruid
13-12-09, 10:39 PM
I fit extension tube to front vacuum nipple first time I balance carbs on anyones bike. Saves loads of time the next time round.
I removed the coolent bottle, piece of **** now. :-)
FWIW the rear is dead easy (on a curvy), the front is a pita, I use a ratchet strap round the forks to hold it out of the way, don't have a pic of me doing it on the SV but here is is shown on a V4 instead.
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/VFR750/thumbs/640x480DSC04199.JPG
Druid
xXBADGERXx
13-12-09, 11:17 PM
I had similar issues with the front takeoff point today when balancing the carbs- a nightmare to get the carbtune hose onto as there's no room for fingers- I suspect really long nose pliers would have had a job too.
I fitted a larger tube over the end of the hose and it went onto the nipple easier (oo-er!).
I have found that an 11" pair of 45 degree nosed pliers for £3 off the market saves time here , a thin smear of Washing up liquid to help the hose go on ......... and a magnet on a stick to catch them damn clips that ping off at the merest slip of the fingers . Also a White sheet under the bike in case the clip pings away from the bike . Quite possibly the worst job on a Pointy for a man with hands my size :smt073
took me all of 20 mins to change mine on a pointy last week...easy peasy, if u need help im localish;)
My SV hasn't got the OEM toolkit but I managed it well enough with my trusty Teng mr101 tool kit! :smt041 I was at Aye Gee motorcycles the other week. A guy there was picking up his SV after inadvertantly sticking a plug spanner through the rad. I heard the mechanic say we get quite a few of these!
Owenski
14-12-09, 04:01 PM
my sv hasn't got the oem toolkit but i managed it well enough with my trusty teng mr101 tool kit! :smt041 i was at aye gee motorcycles the other week. a guy there was picking up his sv after inadvertantly sticking a plug spanner through the rad. I heard the mechanic say we get quite a few of these!
own up! Who was it?
shifter
14-12-09, 04:31 PM
Another good reason for dropping the coolant and removeing the rad.
yorkie_chris
14-12-09, 04:34 PM
Another good reason for dropping the coolant and removeing the rad.
Or another reason to take your time with a job and generally not be f***ing dense.
shifter
14-12-09, 06:50 PM
Well said that man, rads are delicate, my mate knackered his with a jet wash.
Wideboy
14-12-09, 09:33 PM
take off horn, release the bolt off bottom of rad, pivot rad forward, wedge piece od 2x1 between rad and cylinder head, pop in the spanner.......... simples
yorkie_chris
14-12-09, 11:04 PM
Well said that man, rads are delicate, my mate knackered his with a jet wash.
Jet washing a bike, nuff said. :smt009
xXBADGERXx
14-12-09, 11:05 PM
Actually washing a bike, nuff said. :smt009
Corrected for you in your own style and admission .
yorkie_chris
14-12-09, 11:14 PM
True. Though I am actually going to clean the fork legs soon before I revalve them. (waits to hear big thud from general direction of wales)
barwel1992
14-12-09, 11:21 PM
i should have done this when i had my rad off, and fitted new plugs but didn't think about it at the time
I eventually gave up, and tightened it back up. Hope i did anyway, as it was hard to tell. I didn't even attempt to change the rear plug. So, looks like a simple maintenance job has defeated me.
Any tips?
What you need is one of these and a plug socket on an extension. I bought the Snap-On version many years ago and it's proved invaluable. Halfords Pro stuff is almost as good but a damn sight cheaper.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_17 3135_langId_-1_categoryId_165469
xXBADGERXx
15-12-09, 12:06 AM
True. Though I am actually going to clean the fork legs soon before I revalve them. (waits to hear big thud from general direction of wales)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_fGFPnbege-s/RhE004RaITI/AAAAAAAAAeg/u_JvcgrkVXA/s320/BADGER.JPG
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