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View Full Version : Rear wheel Break Light 'On' Position

mikebrooman
04-01-10, 08:04 PM
A quick question, I've looked through my haynes manual electrical diagram but no answer.
My brake light is only coming on when the rear wheel break leaver is almost fully depressed. The 'front wheel' break comes on instantly as I press it, but the rear wheel break doesn't. Is there an adjuster to make the light come on sooner into the breaking process.
Dunno if I've explained this well!
Thanks in advance
Neeja
04-01-10, 08:05 PM
Looking at the thread title, it's clear your brake light is broken.







I'll get me coat.
Richie
04-01-10, 08:09 PM
the other side of the brake footpeg you'll see two springs, the short one is the brake pedal return, the other a longish thin spring is the brake light switch spring. with bike ignition on pull this spring gently, Look for brake light to come on.
if yes, you'll see you can adjust it on an adjusting screw with a lock nut.
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/9747/brakelight1.gif


hth's
yorkie_chris
04-01-10, 09:41 PM
Hold the sensor in place and spin the captive nut thing around. Simples, no tools required
mikebrooman
05-01-10, 04:20 PM
ta helpful people!
Damian
05-01-10, 04:36 PM
the other side of the brake footpeg you'll see two springs, the short one is the brake pedal return, the other a longish thin spring is the brake light switch spring. with bike ignition on pull this spring gently, Look for brake light to come on.
if yes, you'll see you can adjust it on an adjusting screw with a lock nut.
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/9747/brakelight1.gif


hth'syes thats what happened to mine i fix it the other week, dont for get the nut part dose not move,,,
Stu
05-01-10, 05:00 PM
Yes that's what happened to mine I fixed it the other week, don't forget the nut part does not move.
That's the opposite to what YC posted. I think I'll believe YC instead TYVM
Damian
05-01-10, 05:09 PM
That's the opposite to what YC posted. I think I'll believe YC instead TYVM
u can do but it worked 4 me, look at the pic, holed the nut & use Ur thumb & finger 4 the top part
fastdruid
05-01-10, 05:10 PM
That's the opposite to what YC posted. I think I'll believe YC instead TYVM

Well it depends really, now you *should* turn the nut to adjust it and hold the body stationary but in reality the nut does not want to move! ;)

I found that the best way was to pull the switch out and *then* you could turn the nut by hand.

Druid
Damian
05-01-10, 05:16 PM
any way mikebrooman good luck :smt037 let us know it works
yorkie_chris
05-01-10, 09:11 PM
yes thats what happened to mine i fix it the other week, dont for get the nut part dose not move,,,

Type in normal text you pillock.


If you turn the switch rather than the nut then you'll rip the wires out of one end or the other, reason I said to move the nut is because that's much easier than finding the connector and unplugging it so you can safely turn the sensor.
Stu
05-01-10, 09:46 PM
If you turn the switch rather than the nut then you'll rip the wires out of one end or the other, reason I said to move the nut is because that's much easier than finding the connector and unplugging it so you can safely turn the sensor.That's what suspected. I wasn't simply having a go at the newbie

any way mikebrooman good luck :smt037 let us know it works
Is that after he potentially breaks his connector?:smt108
svdemon
05-01-10, 09:57 PM
Bend the spring a tad
Damian
06-01-10, 07:11 PM
:reaper:Type in normal text you pillock.


If you turn the switch rather than the nut then you'll rip the wires out of one end or the other, reason I said to move the nut is because that's much easier than finding the connector and unplugging it so you can safely turn the sensor.
very nice pillock. ur good with words.it work for me the wire goes through like a brake cable dose. on my one
yorkie_chris
06-01-10, 08:22 PM
Big writing is just annoying, especially when you can't be arsed to type in English.
Damian
06-01-10, 08:29 PM
Big writing is just annoying, especially when you can't be arsed to type in English.
OK i cu ur point but next time ask nicely (arsed to type in English) if u mean my typing style, that 4me 2 do..:thumleft:
yorkie_chris
06-01-10, 08:40 PM
Right then;

Here's a switch.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/3858/1001877z.jpg

See that square tab thing below the soldered joints? That holds the switch itself in place. It also stops the switch with it's pair of soldered wires from rotating with respect to the body of the part. This means if you spin the switch/sensor around, the wires spin too.

These are the contacts on top of the switch body. If you spin the sensor round and round repeatedly without unplugging the connector at the loom to relieve the strain on things, something will probably give. Either these or the crimps at the connector end.
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/8894/1001878b.jpg




This part:
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/8580/1001879t.jpg

Can spin around fine, because it's just a plunger which presses on the microswitch inside. But the wires on top can't. Though a few turns probably won't pull the solder joints apart.


And if that isn't clear then you can be excused the use of a spell-checker as you must have a crayon up your nose or something.
Damian
06-01-10, 08:48 PM
ok, ill make sure mine is ok then, nice pic`s