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View Full Version : Immobiliser Hell!


stu123
07-03-10, 01:06 PM
What a nightmare. Bike out for he first time in ages, went to petrol station, filled it up, came back and couldn't disarm the bloody thing!!

So i'm stuck at the petrol station and eventually had to push it 2 miles home!!

Does anyone have a quick fix for bypassing the alarm/immobiliser?

It's a Datatool 433 and the fob is lighting up, it just doesnt seem to be disraming the immobiliser. I have spoke to an auto electrician who said he would charge between £40-50 to rewire it and bypass it.

Ideally I would like to fix it myself. I looked the model up and believe they can sometimes be 'spiked'????

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!!

Sid Squid
07-03-10, 03:13 PM
Have you got another fob? Try that first.

Richie
07-03-10, 03:15 PM
+1 for what Sid said...

mine did the same thing, got the other fob and that did the trick.

TSM
07-03-10, 04:08 PM
Datatool 433 aka Veto
Its fairly old now.

A low battery on the fob is always a weird one as the light still comes on.
You can also try resyncing the fob with the alarm, press both buttons at the same time for 5 seconds or so.
I dont think the Veto has a manual override, cant remember.

http://www.datatool.co.uk/pdfs/veto_evo_ug.pdf

ridelikeaturtle
07-03-10, 04:14 PM
If the alarm is hosed, the final solution would be to extract the alarm from your bike. (I've had to do this before for the exact same reason, the immobilizer wouldn't disarm. No alarm is better than no bike!) Get your wire cutters out and start snipping. Shouldn't be too hard, just know what you're cutting and what you need to preserve.

TSM
07-03-10, 04:15 PM
If the alarm is hosed, the final solution would be to extract the alarm from your bike. (I've had to do this before for the exact same reason, the immobilizer wouldn't disarm. No alarm is better than no bike!) Get your wire cutters out and start snipping. Shouldn't be too hard, just know what you're cutting and what you need to preserve.

was only a matter of time till this was said...again

stu123
07-03-10, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the help guys! I only have one fob for the bike so cant try that. I have also tried resyncing the alarm by holding down both buttons.

I would happily start snipping the wires but I would be terrified of doing alot more damage than I would do good!

Sounds simple but would ripping the actual alarm unit out work (guessing not as thieves would do it all the time???) or would the bike still be immobilised??

As said, better to have a bike than no alarm!!

Currently - still stuck!!!

Ta!

Lozzo
07-03-10, 05:18 PM
Get someone who knows what they are doing to remove the alarm and never fit one again to any bike you own... ever.

Alarms are a waste of time and cause more problems than they solve. No-one ever takes the blindest bit of notice of them anyway

Biker Biggles
07-03-10, 05:21 PM
Get someone who knows what they are doing to remove the alarm and never fit one again to any bike you own... ever.

Alarms are a waste of time and cause more problems than they solve. No-one ever takes the blindest bit of notice of them anyway


Amen to that.Perhaps we could post a sticky on how to remove these satanic devices from our bikes so we could all get rid of them?

stu123
07-03-10, 05:53 PM
My view exactly! If someone wantsd your bike enough then it could easily be bundled in the back of a van regardless of your alarm system! Any quick fixes would be great as i'm planning on the auto electrician coming on tuesday!!

Thanks Stu

simesb
07-03-10, 07:04 PM
Amen to that.Perhaps we could post a sticky on how to remove these satanic devices from our bikes so we could all get rid of them?

Not everybody hates them - I think they are a necessary evil and chose to have one fitted to my bike, and would again.

Lozzo
07-03-10, 09:24 PM
Not everybody hates them - I think they are a necessary evil and chose to have one fitted to my bike, and would again.


You are in a very distinct minority of all motorcyclists. 99.9% of people I know detest the things and will never have them on their bike.

As for them being a necessary evil, I haven't had any bike nicked or had any attempted thefts and I remove the alarms from all my bikes as soon as they are home if they are fitted when I buy them.

I had one bike stranded when the immobiliser failed and another went off in the middle of the night (2am) and only stopped when I put a hammer through the alarm module. That's when I decided I'd never have another.

Sid Squid
08-03-10, 03:47 AM
You are in a very distinct minority of all motorcyclists. 99.9% of people I know detest the things and will never have them on their bike.
Somewhat less than 99.9%.

sz1
08-03-10, 07:31 AM
i had a datatool and it spiked so my be worth checking there web site .

dizzyblonde
08-03-10, 10:02 AM
Dunno why you lot are all anti alarm. First thing I would have done was to put a new battery in the fob, then go from there.
Can't understand why people go for the hammer option first.

Sid Squid
08-03-10, 10:44 AM
Can't understand why people go for the hammer option first.

:smt045.

The new bestest ever post on this forum ever ever ever.

skyline
08-03-10, 01:38 PM
Amen to that.Perhaps we could post a sticky on how to remove these satanic devices from our bikes so we could all get rid of them?


This. +100000! :smt045

speedplay
08-03-10, 01:45 PM
I have to go with the "rip it out" option but only if its a terminal issue.

I removed mine as it was a pain in the ass and IS MY PERSONAL VIEW that they are more problems than they are worth.

The faf of it arming every time the ignition was turned off, bleeping when in service mode, draining the battery etc wasn't (in my opinion) worth the limited benefits of having one.

EssexDave
08-03-10, 01:53 PM
My view exactly! If someone wantsd your bike enough then it could easily be bundled in the back of a van regardless of your alarm system! Any quick fixes would be great as i'm planning on the auto electrician coming on tuesday!!

Thanks Stu

Very true, but its a chance thing.

Firstly, an opportunist thief may be detered by the alarm.
But, say you have a hardcore bike thief, going out to steal a bike. You're parked up next to a few other bikes, yours has an alarm (visible) and another one next to it doesn't...

Ok it isn't as simple as this, but I assume a lot of thieves would take the easier option.

Of course, there is always the case that some people partake in illegal activites for the thrill of overcoming the challenge and as such your bike with an alarm would be more at risk than an easier bike to nick. Silly I know.

fastdruid
08-03-10, 01:53 PM
Its easy to remove them.

1) Remove rear plastics
2) Locate immobiliser
2a[optional]) Cut off immobiliser (as close to immobiliser as possible) and smash satisfyingly with large hammer.
3) Trace each wire from the immobilser, one will contain a fuse and be attached to +ve, one (or more) will attach to earth / -ve, one may attach to a switched +ve. Two may connect in to either end of a wire to the starter solinoid. Two will connect in either end of a wire to the ECU. You may need to unravel a substantial amount of tape from the loom before you find where they are connected.
4) The wire to the ECU and wire to the starter (if fitted) will have been cut and the wires to the immobilser attached to either end, you need to bridge that cut section. You can get inline crimps but IMO they are messy and prone to coming apart leaving you stranded. The best way to do things is to use proper crimps and a short section of wire. Soldering is next best but can introduce a infexible area that may break later.

Once you have located all the breaks in the wiring loom and bridged them then wrap some insulating tape round them (heat shrink is better but tape is cheaper and easier). Test it all works then re-tape up the loom again and refit all plastics.

Throw the immobiliser in the bin (or if you were careful and labled all the wires sell on ebay as I did [to someone with an SV]) :)

Druid

fastdruid
08-03-10, 01:54 PM
Very true, but its a chance thing.

Firstly, an opportunist thief may be detered by the alarm.
But, say you have a hardcore bike thief, going out to steal a bike. You're parked up next to a few other bikes, yours has an alarm (visible) and another one next to it doesn't...

Better off with a flashing LED and an alarm sticker IMO.

Druid

dizzyblonde
08-03-10, 01:54 PM
My Meta arms the immobiliser automatically within 30 secs of ingnition being switched off. The alarm is only set when I'm at work...I usually forget its on, and it makes a racket, but after a 12 hr night shift, its usually a welcome scare...wakes me up before I plod off home!
Never drained the battery on my bike. Only time its misbehaved is when we had the subframe off and disturbed it, but its been fine since.

skyline
08-03-10, 02:36 PM
Its easy to remove them.

1) Remove rear plastics
2) Locate immobiliser
2a[optional]) Cut off immobiliser (as close to immobiliser as possible) and smash satisfyingly with large hammer.
3) Trace each wire from the immobilser, one will contain a fuse and be attached to +ve, one (or more) will attach to earth / -ve, one may attach to a switched +ve. Two may connect in to either end of a wire to the starter solinoid. Two will connect in either end of a wire to the ECU. You may need to unravel a substantial amount of tape from the loom before you find where they are connected.
4) The wire to the ECU and wire to the starter (if fitted) will have been cut and the wires to the immobilser attached to either end, you need to bridge that cut section. You can get inline crimps but IMO they are messy and prone to coming apart leaving you stranded. The best way to do things is to use proper crimps and a short section of wire. Soldering is next best but can introduce a infexible area that may break later.

Once you have located all the breaks in the wiring loom and bridged them then wrap some insulating tape round them (heat shrink is better but tape is cheaper and easier). Test it all works then re-tape up the loom again and refit all plastics.

Throw the immobiliser in the bin (or if you were careful and labled all the wires sell on ebay as I did [to someone with an SV]) :)

Druid

Cool, cheers!

Sounds good about not needing to solder, Quick question though, what are the "proper crimps" needed for bridging the wires?

Cheers again

speedplay
08-03-10, 02:38 PM
Cool, cheers!

Sounds good about not needing to solder, Quick question though, what are the "proper crimps" needed for bridging the wires?

Cheers again

Scotch blocks, sometimes called blade crimps or blade joints

Sid Squid
08-03-10, 02:51 PM
Scotch blocks
Never use those horrors - you think alarms are unreliable?

speedplay
08-03-10, 02:55 PM
Never use those horrors - you think alarms are unreliable?


I got a load of the grease filled ones that BT use and have been using them for years with no problems:confused:

I guess its dependent on location and use I guess though.

fastdruid
08-03-10, 03:44 PM
I got a load of the grease filled ones that BT use and have been using them for years with no problems:confused:

I guess its dependent on location and use I guess though.

BT wires don't have to cope with constant vibration and salt water.

Druid

fastdruid
08-03-10, 03:54 PM
Cool, cheers!

Sounds good about not needing to solder, Quick question though, what are the "proper crimps" needed for bridging the wires?


I'd heard soldering wasn't the best but this guy seems to suggest the opposite - http://www.dansmc.com/soldering.htm

Druid

Lozzo
08-03-10, 08:03 PM
Never use those horrors - you think alarms are unreliable?

+1, bloody awful things.

They cut into the cable causing resistance and a potential corrosion point where the disimilar metals act against each other.

Lozzo
08-03-10, 08:05 PM
Somewhat less than 99.9%.

I really don't know more than a handful of the thousands of bikers I know who actually like alarms, so I stand by my 99.9% hate them claim.

In recent years I've had more enquiries from people wanting to remove an alarm from their bike than I have from anyone wanting to fit one - in fact I can't remember the last time anyone asked me to fit an alarm.

yorkie_chris
08-03-10, 08:10 PM
+1 on not even looking at scotchloks. Bloody horrible bodge.

Clean wires, twist them together, sparing blob of solder. Heatshrink. Job jobbed, and it is IMO the most reliable joint.

When using spades I like to add a bit of solder into the crimp too. But not the wire outside the connector as this creates a brittle bit.

stu123
08-03-10, 08:37 PM
Just a quick update, i've cut the immobiliser box off and i'm going to have a look at the wires tomorrow after druids advice!

I'm a complete novice at wiring / electrical problems so it will definately be interesting. Just hope I don't do any further damage.

Also, I won't have made the problem worse by cutting off the immobiliser will I?

Pinickity problems like this frickin immobiliser and numerous problems with batteries etc are making me start to feel a little bit less lovin' for my SV!! Not good!!

simesb
08-03-10, 08:46 PM
Also, I won't have made the problem worse by cutting off the immobiliser will I?

I can almost see the next thread title already.... :rolleyes:

dizzyblonde
08-03-10, 08:52 PM
Hmmm I wonder too!

Hedge yer bets guys..lol. Only teasing :-)

skyline
09-03-10, 12:38 AM
All the best with it stu123. Let us know how it goes! :)

sz1
09-03-10, 01:32 PM
All the best with it stu123. Let us know how it goes! :)



search my post's theres a very handy wiring diagram , that sorted me out..

tommo891
09-03-10, 02:48 PM
i bet you all have an alarm and immobiliser on your insurance policies, and now your insurance is void.....mint....

fastdruid
09-03-10, 02:55 PM
That is one reason why I do not say I use anything. Far too easy to weedle out of claims if you specify you always use x or y lock/chain etc.

Druid

yorkie_chris
09-03-10, 03:10 PM
i bet you all have an alarm and immobiliser on your insurance policies, and now your insurance is void.....mint....

How much are you betting?

tommo891
09-03-10, 03:11 PM
Druid what i dont understand is you wouldnt want your car without an immobiliser or alarm so why your bike surely bike alarms work just fine, i like the idea that if some git wants to steal my bike ive got a chance of hearing it and if not there not going anywhere fast with the immobiliser engaged, and as for my alarm if i dont set it it does it its self after 4 minutes and i cant see the hassel of pushing a button before i go riding...its your immobiliser that drops money off your insurance..

tommo891
09-03-10, 03:16 PM
How much are you betting?

ok i bet most of you have alarms and immobilisers on your insurance....

yorkie_chris
09-03-10, 03:27 PM
Most being over half?

I'll put a quid on that.

fastdruid
09-03-10, 04:31 PM
Druid what i dont understand is you wouldnt want your car without an immobiliser or alarm

The immobiliser/alarm in the car is factory, meaning I don't have to do anything, I don't even know its there. The only time I even noticed it has an alarm is when I've locked it with the bonnet open or locked it (using the button on the key) when I'm still inside. After 5 weeks the car will still start.

so why your bike surely bike alarms work just fine,

but bike alarms *don't* work fine, they need plips which break, or get wet, or fall off keys. Typically leaving you stranded.
They're not 'part' of the bike so the connections invariably fail over time. Typically leaving you stranded.
They drain the battery, either killing it so you need a new one or just making it so that you cannot leave it for more than 2 weeks without a charge.

i like the idea that if some git wants to steal my bike ive got a chance of hearing it and if not there not going anywhere fast with the immobiliser engaged, and as for my alarm if i dont set it it does it its self after 4 minutes and i cant see the hassel of pushing a button before i go riding...its your immobiliser that drops money off your insurance..A car you can prevent from being driven off, a bike can be lifted into the back of a van. Refrigerated vans apparently are the weapon of choice, you can't hear the alarm from outside and once in it can be dealt with at leisure. A better bet would be an alarmed disk lock, just as useful, not likely to leave you stranded.

Having had to use one for a short while it *really* annoyed me the 'hassle' of pushing a button before I go riding. It was forever plipping and bleeping and rearming and going off.

Besides, my insurance cost me £112, I almost feel embarrassed as it is without it being any cheaper.

Druid

andreis
09-03-10, 04:41 PM
Speaking of alternatives, why not buy a gps tracker which is more handy in FINDING the bike after they bypassed the disc lock? It's obvious thieves that won't go for alarm equiped bikes also won't go for disc locked ones simply because it would take longer to disable it and make just as much noise whilst beeing cut off... So, they must pick up a bike with any of the two in the back of a van. Difference is, when going disc lock + tracker, you have a good chance of finding the bike..

simesb
09-03-10, 04:42 PM
Speaking of alternatives, why not buy a gps tracker which is more handy in FINDING the bike after they bypassed the disc lock? It's obvious thieves that won't go for alarm equiped bikes also won't go for disc locked ones simply because it would take longer to disable it and make just as much noise whilst beeing cut off... So, they must pick up a bike with any of the two in the back of a van. Difference is, when going disc lock + tracker, you have a good chance of finding the bike..

You know you are likely to find the tracker as one of 1000 separate parts that your bike is now in?

andreis
09-03-10, 04:44 PM
Yeah, but by the time they take the whole bike appart, you should be able to get its position.. or at least i so hope
Only thing it needs doing is beeing placed in a very unaccesible place

yorkie_chris
09-03-10, 06:23 PM
I think it counts on you being mobile very quickly and after it.

What I would think best is tracker which could phone you to say "help!" and a mate with a van and a shotgun :)

Muffles on here proved that tracker and relying on the police to be allowed to recover the bike doesn't work. Best to recover it yourself.

andreis
09-03-10, 07:44 PM
I do agree on that.. but it's a better chance than none..
However, in the real world, if someone wants your bike, they get it, end of story... So best keep it dirty on the outside and clean on the inside ;)
Will search for muffles's thread on here though, just to learn a couple of things

yorkie_chris
09-03-10, 07:51 PM
Basically the tracker worked, they knew it was inside one of a row of garages but the police did not have sufficient evidence to start using tin opener on door or even knocking on houses which owned garages.

andreis
10-03-10, 12:53 PM
There's justice for you...
Did she get it back in the end? As in has she returned in the night and stole her own bike back? (can't find the thread with the search function)
Edit : nevermind, found it..

stu123
11-03-10, 05:13 PM
Thanks for your replies and help, now back riding, it only cost me £25 to get the immobiliser taken off which I didnt think was too bad. I just didt want to risk causing more damage to the wiring!!

I know there's a split opinion on them but I for one am very relieved that its off as I know it has taken away that chance of being stranded by your alarm when there's a whole load of other things out there to stop us anyway!!

Next job, tell my insurance!!!

Ta Stu

demonicus
11-03-10, 07:06 PM
had posted then noticed problem solved doh.