I think I have damaged my bike's frame

[thulfi]

So I went to replace my tail light today after my little spill a few weeks back. All you have to do is take the seat off and unscrew it. However, when I did that, I saw what had happened to the rear of my frame.

The only thing this seems to be affecting so far is the replacement of the tail light. As some metal has been bent down, the plastic of the light doesn't fit into place like it should.

Is this simply the kind of thing I have to work around because it's not that easily corrected?

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2750/10ax.jpg (http://img651.imageshack.us/i/10ax.jpg/)

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/848/10be.jpg (http://img692.imageshack.us/i/10be.jpg/)

[TSM]

new rear subframe time or possably take it to motoliners to get it sorted
not sure about the rear subframe on an ER6 if its one peice or boltable

[rotax81]

not sure meself if that bike has a removable subframe.
if not i would remove the plastics etc and take a big bar to it :D

[thulfi]

I followed the frame round and it does look like its one piece. eek!

[Sid Squid]

Well the subfame is clearly a bit pi**ed, but the good news is that as that frame appears to be steel it's eminently straightenable, so, in your position, that's what I'd do.
The subframe is not an area which requires absolute accuracy, levers made of tube, or stout bits of wood is what I have used before in such circumstances. If you're careful there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to acheive all the straightness needed.
If however there's any doubt at all as to whether the main part of the frame is distorted, it should be taken to someone suitably equipped to check alignment and, if necessary, straighten it accurately.

[Red Herring]

You would be amazed what you can achieve quite easily with a piece of 4x2 and a G clamp. Don't necessarily try and pull it straight in one go, be prepared to make several small tweaks moving the clamp around bit by bit. Good luck.

[thulfi]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Reassuring to hear that it's sortable.

RH, do I just clamp it really tight, try and move it slightly, and repeat? What exactly would the 4x2 be for as well?

thanks

[Sid Squid]

You can also tie the timber or tube to the frame rail with nylon rope, (doesn't stretch), and pull to straighten as needed.
Bind the pole/timber/whatever round and round lots of turns.

[thulfi]

I kinda follow what you're saying SS but finding it very hard to actually visualise in my head what that would entail. I tie one end of the tube to the rail, and pull down on the free end of the tube to achieve the force required on the frame?

[the_lone_wolf]

Sid, will it not be difficult to get the "n" shape back into the very rearnost part of the frame? Looks like when it went down it pushed one side under

[Red Herring]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Reassuring to hear that it's sortable.

RH, do I just clamp it really tight, try and move it slightly, and repeat? What exactly would the 4x2 be for as well?

thanks

The piece of 4x2 needs to be about 4-5 foot long to be useful. Looking at the bottom photo it seems the right side of the subframe has been pushed down. Lay the 4x2 along the top of the bike with one end on something solid like the cross rail under the seat and the other end sticking out over the back of the bike. Then use the G clamp to lightly clamp the 4x2 in place, in this case on the back right corner of the subframe just above where the indicator has broken off. Then gently pull the end of the 4x2 up (worth having a mate steady the bike just in case you lift it off the stand) and as you pull up the G clamp will pull up wherever you have attached it to, which is hopefully the subframe. Do it in little bits and move the clamp around so you pull the frame up evenly. The "N" shaped piece should pull back into shape as well as you lift the rail. You can obviously pull sideways and even down as well just by repositioning the clamp and timber.

[thulfi]

Thanks RH, that's very helpful. I'll give it a go.

[Sid Squid]

Car jack between the rear rails may be useful too.

[fastdruid]

worth having a mate steady the bike just in case you lift it off the stand

Personally if you can I'd suggest a couple of strong mates to hold it for you.

Druid

[thulfi]

Ah so many G-clamps to choose from. Will the cheapo £4 one hold out for a job like this you reckon? http://www.mitchellfox.co.uk/toolsunlimited/acatalog/toolsunlimited_co_uk_G_clamps_139.html

Also, as daft as this sounds, 4x2 refers to timber, right? Any specific type that is recommended. Will the wood not just break?

I have a barbell from my weights. http://www.maximfitness.net/Portals/0/Skins/maxim/images/weights/olym_bar/DHS-Training-Barbell.jpg

Could I just clamp one end to the frame and pull down on the barbell?

[SUPERSTARDJ01]

The wood wont break, it's tightly packed it's stronger than you think.

[Icanopit]

The barbell bar will put an indent into the frame tubes due to it's small diameter, you need to use a wider piece of material to spread the load, do it gently and dont try to straighten in one, sometimes it can help to have another lever in the opposing direction to act as a steady?

JOHN

[thulfi]

So I've just purchased my G-clamp. Does anyone know if I should go for Sawn Timber or Planed Timber (I assume planed is stronger as it's just slightly a bit more expensive?!).

Thanks

[Sid Squid]

It doesn't matter, sawn is cheaper and plain is less likely to give you splinters.

Take your pick.

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah same wood just planed is more expensive because it costs money to do the extra surface finishing.

[thulfi]

Ah ok. Thanks for the help guys.

[arenalife]

This age of ER6 is super susceptible to frame cracking at the top engine mounts where they hang off the frame, something to look at if you haven't yet maybe. It happens right down by where it clamps to the engine.

[Lozzo]

new rear subframe time or possably take it to motoliners to get it sorted
not sure about the rear subframe on an ER6 if its one peice or boltable

That year of ER6 has a welded subframe

http://www.cornwallkawasaki.co.uk/shop/shop.php?cmd=showdiagram&id=12645

[thulfi]

Thanks for the tips. So I went to Wickes & homebase today to look for a 5 to 6 ft (1.5metres) piece of 4x2 timber (as suggested by red herring), but they all seem to come in in 2.5metres or more. Plus the won't cut it down for you.

Anyone know of anywhere that will just chop a piece off for you and sell it? thanks

[ophic]

B&Q often do a sawing service. Got one nearby?

[thulfi]

yeeh there is one around here. Homebase have a sawing section, but for some reason the guy that helped me said that at homebase they no longer saw the timber piece I wanted (not sure why?!). Will give b&q a go in that case, but I thought maybe all of them don't cut the 4x2's/timbers for whatever reason.

[ophic]

iirc they once told me they weren't allowed to cut treated wood, so go for plain.

[SUPERSTARDJ01]

Or B&Q, but I too agree I think they told me once they could not cut treated wood as it damages the blade???

[Red Herring]

Just pop past any building site and ask if they've got an old offcut of 4x2 lying around you can have. Stuff like that goes in every skip you see.

[thulfi]

Okay. Actually RH, that works out well, because they're constructing that massive complex in London Bridge near where I live, so will give them a go. Otherwise I'll B&Q it! cheers