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jonny.boyd
28-03-10, 07:34 PM
Hiya all,

I know this has probably been covered before but I did a search and couldn't find anything.

I'm not particularly mechanically minded but I want to do an oil change to my SV (seeing if it'll smooth it out a tad). I'm wondering if anyone could help me with the procedure, call it dummies guide to an oil change on the SV :p

Incase it helps it's and SV650S (2000) Curvy.

Thankyou for any advise and tips!

mjc
28-03-10, 07:57 PM
definatley worth investing in a workshop manual for your bike. it'll tell you how to do all you basic maintenance like this, and more complicated repairs.

until then- warm up the engine (to reduce oil viscosity and make it drain easier)
-remove oil filler cap from clutch cover
-position something under the bike to catch the oil (at least 2.5 litre container)
-remove drain plug from sump. its a 14mm hex head screw towards the left hand side on the bottom of the engine. be careful not to burn yourself on the engine or the escaping oil.
-let the oil drain
-re fit sump plug
-support bike upright (i.e. off side stand) and re fill with fresh oil up to marker in sight glass
-replace filler cap

sorted.

Biker Biggles
28-03-10, 08:08 PM
And do the filter at the same time.False economy not to IMO.Easier with a filter wrench but you can improvise.Do it up as hard as you can with clean bare hands.

Bluefish
28-03-10, 08:31 PM
definatley worth investing in a workshop manual for your bike. it'll tell you how to do all you basic maintenance like this, and more complicated repairs.

until then- warm up the engine (to reduce oil viscosity and make it drain easier)
-remove oil filler cap from clutch cover
-position something under the bike to catch the oil (at least 2.5 litre container)
-remove drain plug from sump. its a 14mm hex head screw towards the left hand side on the bottom of the engine. be careful not to burn yourself on the engine or the escaping oil.
-let the oil drain
-re fit sump plug
-support bike upright (i.e. off side stand) and re fill with fresh oil up to marker in sight glass
-replace filler cap

sorted.


Then run it for a minute switch off and check the level again, top up as nessesary, hth.

svrich
28-03-10, 08:38 PM
And wipe your exhaust clean of the old oil so it doesn't burn.

jonny.boyd
28-03-10, 08:41 PM
Great Advise!! Thankyou very much, that will be my weekend job! How much is an oil filter and are there different types? (which would you recommend?). What oil would you have said will protect the engine best and give best performance?

jimmy4237
28-03-10, 08:42 PM
Get some engine flush poured into the engine first before you run the engine to warm it up. The flush removes all the crap from the engine, and lubes any hydraulic lifters..

Then dump the oil from the sump, replace the oil filter, replace sump plug, and refill engine with oil. Run engine to fill oil filter, and then topup engine oil to full mark.

20 minute job with a rear paddock stand mate. At the same time, remove the petrol tank and air filter cover. Remove the air filter and give it a good clean with a air blower, and a light coat of oil. Clean the inside of the air box too with wd40 and a clean rag, and refit the air filter, cover and tank.

A clogged air filter can lead to engines not breathing properly, and heavier than normal fuel consumption.
Any good 10/40 semi synthetic from bike shops will do. Hein Gericke sometimes do a deal on 10/40 semi and free oil filter for £20. I've never had a problem with the HG stuff

Biker Biggles
28-03-10, 08:49 PM
The standard curvy air filter is a disposable paper element thingy so whatever you do dont oil it.If its dirty replace it.Oil filter is about £6 from Halfords or Hein Gerrike and probably a bit more from Suzuki.Engine oil---Use 10 40 semi synthetic motorbike specific oil.

jimmy4237
28-03-10, 09:00 PM
The standard curvy air filter is a disposable paper element thingy so whatever you do dont oil it.If its dirty replace it.Oil filter is about £6 from Halfords or Hein Gerrike and probably a bit more from Suzuki.Engine oil---Use 10 40 semi synthetic motorbike specific oil.

Oops and sorry- forgot the curvy uses a paper filter.. It's been ages since I had a curvy 650.I use the lifetime reoilable type K&N air filters on my bikes.

yorkie_chris
28-03-10, 09:01 PM
Get some engine flush poured into the engine first before you run the engine to warm it up. The flush removes all the crap from the engine, and lubes any hydraulic lifters..

I wouldn't bother TBH.
Also SV is shim under bucket, and hydraulic lifters are lubed by oil :-P


Reasoning behind that, I stripped a curvy engine that had done 50k miles. There was no sludge build up or other issue which would lead me to think oil flushing mixtures were anything more than a way to save weight from your wallet.

jimmy4237
28-03-10, 09:21 PM
I'm too used to servicing all vehicle types from bikes to artics. Last week I had to service a car that was used daily for 30 miles and hadn't even seen an oil change for 4 years, so you can imagine what sludge state the oil was in. I had to use the flush just to get the old oil crap sediments out of the engine.....

The spark plugs in this car too were like rust, and the air filter was full of road salt, with a completely black air filter..:shock::shock:. No wonder the owner was complaining the car ran like a dog..

If you'd seen the condition of his front brakes (completely rotten front discs, and front pads were falling apart... Back pads were metal on metal..

How he got it through an MOT for the past 3 years I don't know... must have been through a mate of a mate, cos I wouldn't pass it.. more like condemn it....

Yet he still had to cheek to ask for a discount on the service bill:shock: I told him where to go, and not bring his car back to me...

Red Herring
28-03-10, 10:57 PM
Hiya all,

.......... I want to do an oil change to my SV (seeing if it'll smooth it out a tad).

Just picking up on that point, an oil change is unlikely to influence the smooth running of your bike. If the oil that is in there at the moment is so old that the engine is knocking then I'm afraid the damage is done..... If on the other hand it's just it isn't idling properly then you may need to look at plugs, valve clearances and carb adjustment.

yorkie_chris
28-03-10, 10:58 PM
I dunno some people claim to notice a difference in the smoothness of gear changes and clutch action.

Personally I never have, but there is a slight rattle (ratchet in tensioner) that new oil cures for a few hundred miles.