Stubbying my Viper - how?

[hongman]

Hi all

Hmm. Just had a thought.

My Viper can crash damage is all at the bottom end - see pic:

http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/2496/canpx.jpg (http://img693.imageshack.us/i/canpx.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

I was wondering if I could chop the majority of the scratched bit off and re-rivett the base plate on?

Would that work? How would I do it? I reckon from memory about 25mm would get most of the scratched part off.

Its fecking loud as it is, no doubt this would make it louder. It has no baffles...anywhere I can buy some? I assume baffles are chop-able too?

[yorkie_chris]

Loudness is likely to be lack of packing. You need to repack them at intervals to keep them working properly. You will lose midrange without stuffing in can.

[hongman]

I have no idea what the packing is like on this can.

I was just under the impression that the shorter the can, the louder it got as a rule.

Planned on stubbying the scratched part, and getting something like a db killer.

It sounds fecking awesome as it is, but if I rode home late or started it late/early in the day my nerighbours/gf would cut my balls off, so it does need dampening down a tad.

EDIT: What intervals is "normal"?

[hongman]

Well, I got the can off tonight.

There was only one bent rivet holding the end cap on, so it was easy to twist off.

Can looks pretty simple to cut, but the "cap" end which the link pipe connects to is all out of shape.

Hoping a few careful taps with a hammer will straighten it out enough!

[hongman]

Well, Viper, stubbied!

At one of my client sites a guy tried using a reciprcating saw to cut the can, and it was working....until the blade snapped by getting caught on the packing!

So my mate came through for me and "borrowed" a massive angle grinder/saw thingy and just lopped the rest off.

Bit of a rushed job to be honest, the cut wasnt very clean and I cant be bothered to sit there for ages with my dremel trying to make it look nice. The end cap goes into the can and not over it, so whichever way I do it, imperfections will show.

Few taps with a hammer and the end cap is back on, just need to drill some holes and re-rivet it in.

Done!

Will just keep an eye out for a decent 2nd hand can or buy a new one as/when can be bothered and funds allow.

[rictus01]

Generally race cans need to be re-packed every 5-8,000 miles or so for best performance, although left to 10k isn't a major sin or anything.

Also when riveting the end cap on your exhaust make sure to use steel rivets and not the soft alu ones as they will vibrate loose in a fairly short time.

Cheers Mark.

[hongman]

Best performance, as in sound, or as in bhp? I thought slip-ons did naff all for bhp, is all.

I have no idea on how long this can has been on the bike, or how many miles its covered (i.e, if it wasnt new onto my SV).

[barwel1992]

I poorly packed can will losse you mid range power, i think thats what Mark was refering to

[rictus01]

Hmmmm you make it sound like there are only the two options and it's an either or one at that ?

the sound of the can will change as and empty enclosed chamber is created when the packing is pulled out adding an echo sound to the exhaust note, as to performace it's not really a case of getting more BHP, but a case of better burn of the fuel through the cylinder, whilst you may get a little more power it'll be negligible, but you'll be making better use of what you have already.

Cheers Mark

[hongman]

Ah I see.

I have just been looking at B&Q, Screwfix, Wickes....trying to find somehwere I can pick up the rivet gun + rivets, cant be arsed to have it delivered as I can pick it up tomorrow.

Can you recommend me a set? I have seen some that I am not sure of, such as Aluminium but steel plated - is that ok?

Also, are the rivet gun attachments universal to size, or do different rivets need specific attachments?

What size rivet do I buy?


Ahhhh

[rictus01]

it depends what size holes you drill, but most of the riveters have several heads that just screw on the front for each size.

Riveter tool (note the three extra heads on the front handle (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10068/Hand-Tools/Staplers-Riveters/Riveters/Twister-Riveter)

or somethinglike that will be fine

As to rivets I would guess measure the head of the rivets you remove (4/5/6 or 7mm, for example) and the the other measurement you need is the length of the rivet (bit that goes into the hole) anything over 10mm will be fine, so something like 5X10 stainless blind rivet (dependent on head size).

Cheers Mark.

[hongman]

Mark you are awesome.

[rictus01]

no just old mate.

[hongman]

lol!

[j1m1jarv1s3xper1ence]

Hi m8

I have a blue flame for sale, Twin port, really awesome sounds, I now have an sv1000 with twin fuel exhausts and the blue flamwe sounds more awesome on its own will do it £120 or ono, plus postage, Pictures available if wanted. On my profile pictures on past bikes u can see a picture of it on the sv650


Well, Viper, stubbied!

At one of my client sites a guy tried using a reciprcating saw to cut the can, and it was working....until the blade snapped by getting caught on the packing!

So my mate came through for me and "borrowed" a massive angle grinder/saw thingy and just lopped the rest off.

Bit of a rushed job to be honest, the cut wasnt very clean and I cant be bothered to sit there for ages with my dremel trying to make it look nice. The end cap goes into the can and not over it, so whichever way I do it, imperfections will show.

Few taps with a hammer and the end cap is back on, just need to drill some holes and re-rivet it in.

Done!

Will just keep an eye out for a decent 2nd hand can or buy a new one as/when can be bothered and funds allow.

[hongman]

Hiya

Thanks, I do actually particularly like this blue flame exhausts out of them all.

Alas, too soon, need a bit to save up!

If you still have it when I do have the cash, I'd happily take it off you.

On that note, bought the rivets/riveter, and its all secured now.

Tomorrow will be the day of judgement!